Read on for our tips for preventing knuckling in Great Danes!
HOW TO PREVENT KNUCKLING IN GREAT DANES
1. Avoid hard and slick surfaces.
This includes wood, tile, and yes, concrete! Puppies need soft places to rest their joints, walk, and exercise. Do not allow your puppy to slide around on floors or jump off furniture. Healthy play on soft, varied terrain is appropriate and will help strengthen joints!
Put down lots of area rugs to keep joints safe and cushioned. We love washable rugs from Ruggable; they are perfect for homes with puppies, look beautiful, and offer just enough softness and traction.
2. Strengthen Toes and Feet
Strong feet are important to ensure that your puppy has a solid foundation to grow on. Walk and play on soft surfaces such as bedding, gym mats, sand, gravel, dirt, and grass.
By allowing your puppy to play on a variety of terrain, you are building muscles and strength that will help their feet grow correctly.
Choose a large or giant breed puppy formula with meat and meat meals in the first ingredients, calcium at or below 1.2%, and phosphorus close behind. The food must also contain the AAFCO large breed growth statement.
Do NOT mix kibble brands. Choose one and stick with it. The following foods meet the criteria:
Check out THE GIANT DOG FOOD PROJECT to compare brands and values.
5. Watch the Treats
Do not let supplements, toppers, or treats make up more than 10% of the intake. Excess nutrition is harmful for Dane pups!
6. Minimize Crate Time
Crates are important for training, however, Great Dane puppies need the freedom to move naturally to develop joints, tendons, and bones. Limit crate time, especially if your puppy is in a crate overnight.
Great Dane puppy joints are fragile and need to be cared for.
With proper care, knuckling over is preventable and treatable. Without care, knuckled limbs may become painful and permanently deformed.
All these things we listed work together to help prevent and treat knuckling in Great Dane puppies. Protect the joints, strengthen the joints, and lastly, provide the correct nutrition.
Selecting a unique name for your Great Dane puppy is a fun decision that reflects both your pet’s identity and your personal preferences. Choosing a name for your Great Dane puppy or rescue dog can be one overwhelming task that dog owners have to face!
If you are looking for a unique name for your new Great Dane, start with our ever-growing list of beautiful and interesting puppy dog names.
Some of these puppy names are based on pop culture, others are classics that are ready to make a huge comeback. We tried to find unusual names that aren’t seen on every list!
If you choose one of the names from our list, please come back and leave us a comment! We’d love to hear from you.
But, what should you name your new Great Dane puppy?
Here are a few of the best Great Dane names:
Cute Female Great Dane Puppy Names
Juno
Astrid
Juniper
Matilda
Gigi
Hermione
Arya
Ivy
Cute Male Great Dane Puppy Names
Murdoch
Astor
Obsidian
Jasper
Cobalt
Umberto
Amadeus
Jeppesen
If none of those Great Dane dog names resonated with you, don’t worry– we have more!
Funny Great Dane Names
Cowabunga
Butterball
Biscuit
Beanpole
Noodles
Pip Squeak
String Bean
Tiny Tim
Shrimpy
Waffle
Snickers
Dr. Doolittle
If you’re not into the silly route, no worries! We have more ideas for you.
Great Dane Names Inspired by History
Your good girl and good boy deserve to be named after someone heroic!
If you want a really good name for your pup that has inspiration from someone famous, maybe you should consider the following ideas as your perfect name:
Princess Bride
Country Coyote
Goddess Names: Athena, Freya, He
Napoleon
Tower of London- Grendel, Beowulf
Shakespeare- Macbeth, Romeo, Ophelia
British Prime Ministers- Churchill, Thatcher, Major
Names for Great Danes are tough. Let’s face it- your dog is PERFECT! So, they have to have the perfect dog name to match. You want them to have a really great name and we agree. So, let’s dive into some more dog name ideas.
Puppy Names from TV & Movies
If you are into famous Great Danes or have a favorite show, you could always look for dog name ideas inside of those. Maybe the right name for your Great Dane dog is right under your nose!
Here are a few ideas that could make the perfect names for Great Danes:
Members of the Swiss Family Robinson: Fritz, Ernest, Franz
The Addams Family: Gomez, Morticia, Wednesday, Pugsley
Winnie the Pooh and friends: Pooh, Piglet, Eeyore, Tigger
The Beethoven movies: Beethoven, Buddy, Mr. Hinkle
The Aristocats: Marie, Toulouse, Duchess, Berlioz
Lady and the Tramp: Lady, Tramp, Jock, Trusty
The Ugly Dachshund: Doxie, Danke, Gretchen
Comic Strip: Garfield, Snoopy, Odie
There are endless possibilities for names for your Great Dane. No matter the name you choose, your pup is going to be gorgeous!
Traditional Great Dane Puppy Names
Maybe you are looking for more traditional names for Great Danes. Your family might think that a more simple, traditional name would make the perfect name for your dog!
Traditional Female Great Dane Names
Coco
Etta
Ida
Dora
Maple
Clover
Terra
Cassie
Joy
Aria
Sia
Zuri
Shiloh
Clementine
Poppy
Greta
Traditional Male Great Dane Names
Fig
Dexter
Milo
Archie/Archer/Arch
Edison
Silas
Gideon
Whiskey
Stirling
Boeing
Ender
Mica/Micah
Wilder
Niko
Sullivan
Aston
Hudson
Puppy Names Based on Colors
You can’t forget that beautiful dogs come in all different colors. Gentle giants like Great Danes have multiple different colors!
If you have a Harlequin Great Dane, consider yourself lucky! You have one of the most beautiful dogs in the world. Here are some names for your special pup:
You may think that searching for the right Great Dane name is the most important part of bringing your giant breed dog home, but what matters even more is the connection you have with your pup.
Choosing the right name is a personal decision that only you can make for your dog, but here are some things to keep in mind when you are trying to choose the perfect name for your new furry friend:
1. The name should be short and sweet. You don’t want a name that is too long or complicated because you will be saying it a lot!
2. Consider your dog’s personality. If your pup is outgoing and playful, you might want a name that reflects that. If your pup is more laid back and relaxed, you might want a name that is more mellow.
3. Choose a name that you will feel comfortable saying in public. You don’t want to choose a name that you are going to be embarrassed to say when you are out and about with your dog.
4. Make sure the name is easy for your dog to understand. You don’t want to choose a name that is too similar to words you say often, like “sit” or “stay”.
5. Avoid names that might make other people uncomfortable. You don’t want to choose a name that could be interpreted in a negative way by other people.
6. Have fun with it! Don’t take the process too seriously. At the end of the day, the most important thing is that you and your dog are happy with the name you choose.
Bonus Puppy Names to Consider
If you’re still stuck on what to name your Great Dane and feel like you’ve gone through hundreds of Great Dane names and can’t find one that works for you- keep looking and keep getting to know your Great Dane!
The right name will click suddenly as you settle into life with your Great Dane.
Here are a few final names that might stick for your Great Dane:
FEMALE GREAT DANES:
Female names for Great Danes are tough- but don’t give up. Here are a few options you may like for your Great Dane:
No matter what you choose- you will end up with a very good name and your Great Dane will end up being your world! Let us know in the comments if you have any other ideas for Great Dane names.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of shady breeders and Great Dane breeder scams in the world of Great Danes. These unethical breeding practices are harming our beloved breed and making it hard for pet parents to navigate their search for a well-bred Great Dane puppy.
We see a lot of this. The unethical breeders prey on people who are new to Great Danes or don’t know much about ethical breeding practices. What’s worse, is that they know how to appear ethical, friendly, and reputable.
The dogs and the owners end up suffering for it. Backyard breeding practices are almost solely responsible for the reason that so many purebred Great Danes are in rescue.
We are on a mission to shut these shady, scammy, unethical breeders down, and make room for breeders that are operating with the best interest of every dog in mind.
This post will dig into some favorite shady tactics that unethical Great Dane breeders may use to get your business!
Shady Breeder Tactic #1: Bare Minimum Health Testing
One way that backyard breeders will attempt to appear reputable and legitimate is by doing a ‘vet check’ or genetic screening so they can claim that their dogs have been health tested.
Note: a breeder who only completes a ‘veterinary clearance’ or genetic screening is NOT properly health testing their dogs! There is no exception to this. When you hear these things from a breeder, you are hearing about their corner-cutting practices.
Diligent health testing must include at minimum:
Veterinary check, ideally with a reproductive veterinarian
A full study of the pedigree of both parents to include information about health conditions seen in the genetic lineage
Genetic screening for known genetic conditions and coat color
OFA screening by the breed’s parent club recommendations.
For example, in Great Danes, OFA health screening for each parent in the pairing must include:
OFA Heart – an echocardiogram of the heart
OFA Thyroid – Thyroid panel/blood test
OFA Eyes – Exam with a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist
OFA Hips – X-rays read and graded by orthopedic specialists
Reputable breeders will log their OFA health testing at www.ofa.org
You should be able to see the screening results for BOTH parents on that website. If any OFA tests are missing, find a different breeder.
If you are outside of the U.S., your breeder probably doesn’t use OFA, but they will still check their breeding stock for quality hips, eyes, heart, and thyroid.
Don’t just take their word for any of this! Ask for proof. Ask them why it matters.
Sketchy Dog Breeders Red Flag: Puppies, Puppies Everywhere!
Tread cautiously with any breeder that always seems to have puppies, especially if they have a regular habit of maintaining multiple litters and pregnant dams at the same time, all year round.
These breeders may appear ‘popular’ and reputable because they have so much ‘business’, but in the world of ethical breeding, this is one of the worst offenses.
Many of these same breeders may keep adult dogs in outdoor runs all day, require the purchase of ‘Life’s Abundance’ or ‘Nuvet’ (MLM commission schemes), and/or have a huge network of ‘guardian homes’ through which they can always have litters available.
Running a breeding business like a puppy factory isn’t fair to the dogs, owners, or puppies.
It implies that each life is worth only the cash it generates.
Breeders that are overrun with dogs and puppies are less likely to be able to offer proper puppy socialization and care, robust breeder support, and appropriate attention, affection, training and accommodations for the dogs being used in their breeding program.
Many breeders that operate this way are keeping dogs in runs or barns outdoors, not as loved pets that are trained in obedience, shown in dog shows, socialized, and kept as part of the family.
Do not mistake high volume for popularity.
Ask yourself if a ‘high volume’ breeder is doing this because they care about maintaining and enhancing the breed, or if they are in it for ego and cash.
Breeder Red Flag: Will Ship Anywhere
Some ethical breeders are willing to ship puppies to highly qualified, well-considered buyers.
We are very leary of any breeder that always seems to have puppies and is willing and able to ship them almost anywhere to anyone, however.
Great Danes are NOT an item that you order online. They are living beings that should be bred and raised with care and love.
They should not be bred by volume and shipped all over the Country like bags of dog food.
Ethical breeders typically have waitlists of local buyers and don’t need to do this to sell puppies.
Any breeder with a habit of regularly shipping or ‘delivering’ dogs to multiple different states is a breeder who does not likely have a good name in their local community.
As before, don’t mistake even expensive high-volume shipping operations with ethics, ‘popularity’, and desirability.
The Ethical vs. Shady Breeder Showdown
Ethical:
The ethical breeder will have OFA and genetic screening results to show you for both parents. They will be able to speak to the pedigree, with information about common health disorders in the breed such as heart disease, cancer, and GDV Bloat.
Shady:
The shady breeder will say their dogs are health tested and healthy. They might do OFA Hips or thyroid (but not all of them) so they can use the word ‘OFA’ in their marketing.
Ethical:
These breeders can tell you about the breed standard if you ask about angulation, top lines, eyes, head shape, croup, feet, color, temperament, and health problems.
Shady:
Unethical breeders will attempt to sell you on their puppies by mentioning that their dogs are “Euro” and come in “rare colors”.
Ethical
Exceptional breeders have a robust early socialization program that they are very proud of. It should include early exposure to people, children, animals, textures, touch, sounds, crates, handling, leashes, and potty training.
Shady:
Corner-cutting breeders will say they raise the puppies ‘indoors’ and ‘around children’.
Ethical:
Breeders that care want to know a lot about you as a buyer, including your experience, desires, etc. They will often have a long waitlist of buyers who understand the reasons for waiting to support an ethical breeder.
Shady:
Unethical breeders often have to do a sales pitch to sell dogs and will sell them to nearly anybody willing to buy. They may even encourage puppy buyers to take home multiples and will often be seen on social media trying to sell the puppies.
All Dogs Need Good Homes
It’s hard to turn your back on a dog that is already here, waiting to be purchased.
The problem, however, is an endless loop. When you intentionally purchase a dog from a backyard breeder, puppy mill, or pet store you are also funding the production of more unethically bred puppies.
So while it feels good at the time to give THAT dog a home, the money rewards a breeder that doesn’t truly care about that dog or any others that follow.
Make it a point to seek out and purchase ONLY from ethical breeders.
A backyard breeder with a litter of poorly bred, unhealthy, or sick puppies that don’t sell may eventually give up and surrender those dogs to rescue. The rescue can find great homes for them, and the backyard breeder may think twice before breeding again.
If you are concerned because you have a Great Dane puppy with knuckling, crooked paws, bowed-out legs, or bumps on the front legs, you’ve come to the right place. It is important to understand what causes knuckling over, and how to quickly fix knuckling in Great Dane puppies.
Knuckling over, better known as “Carpal Laxity” is one of the challenges that may arise during the explosive puppy growth phase.
As you are now aware, giant breed puppies, known for their rapid growth, can sometimes face orthopedic concerns that affect their front legs. This post is a big one, and in it, we are providing the most up-to-date information based on science & research! Use our table of contents to navigate.
In this post we will discuss:
How to determine if your Great Dane puppy is knuckling
What causes knuckling in giant breed puppies
How to fix knuckling over, flat feet, and carpal laxity in Great Danes
A Great Dane puppy knuckling over, with carpal laxity
What is Knuckling Over in Puppies?
Knuckling, or Knuckling over is the layman’s term for a large or giant breed puppy when their front limbs collapse. You can see in the image above that the knuckle joint is bowed over the foot.
This condition is a result of fast growth and while it looks alarming, it is one of the least concerning growth disorders that big puppies can face!
Is Puppy Knuckling & Carpal Laxity the Same Thing?
The WORD “knuckling” and carpal laxity go hand in hand. However, the word “knuckling” is medically incorrect for this condition.
In other words, the use of the word ‘knuckling’ is actually a misnomer!
When people say ‘knuckling’ in reference to bowed legs on a giant breed puppy, what they really mean is “Carpal Laxity”.
True knuckling is actually a neurological condition, usually associated with more serious disorders in older dogs. To be clear, the use of the word ‘knuckling’ in reference to Great Dane puppy feet is basically slang.
Now that that is out of the way, it’s important to note that I will be using the terms “Carpal Laxity” and “Knuckling” interchangeably in this post.
When you speak to your vet, mention that you have concerns about carpal laxity. This will make much more sense to them, and their diagnosis will make much more sense to you, too!
Is Knuckling Over in Great Danes Serious?
Knuckling over is one of the most common growth complications in Great Danes and other giant breed puppies.
With carpal laxity, the dogs weight becomes too much for the quickly developing bone and cartilage, and the legs ‘buckle’ or go flat in response to the stress.
Some puppies have a mild case of knuckling over, others have a more severe case. Either way, this is a notable (and reversible) condition that requires treatment.
It often pops up with very little warning, and puppies can be normal and then wake up from a nap buckling over. Other puppies show early signs, such as having shaky legs and flat feet.
While the exact cause of knuckling is unknown, it is believed to be related to dysfunctional (too fast) growth, often brought on by improper nutrition. Excessive or improper exercise and slippery or hard surfaces can cause further damage to the lax joints.
It is a condition that requires swift action and treatment, however, it is NOT a serious condition requiring life-saving measures. Don’t stress! With the right treatment, this problem resolves quickly.
This photo above is of an 8-week-old Great Dane puppy who was diagnosed with HOD and knuckling. This is a severe case. Knuckling can look more mild or more severe than this.
Normal Great Dane Puppy Growth vs. Knuckling
Many people mistake normal, knobby growth plates, flat feet, or angular limb deformities with knuckling!
Healthy Great Dane puppies will often have large, knobby growth plates on their front paws. These growth plates may swell a little bit before a growth spurt; this is normal!
However, excessive swelling is indicative of problems such as HOD and PANO which are much more serious than carpal laxity. Always monitor the condition of your puppy’s growth plates and report to your veterinarian; if there seems to be pain, limping, and/or a lot of swelling.
What are the Signs & Symptoms of Puppy Knuckling?
This photo above is a fairly severe case: notice the bowed appearance and toes.
It’s important to understand the warning signs that may indicate early or developing bone growth problems in your puppy, and see a giant-breed-knowledgeable veterinarian ASAP. Left untreated, puppy knuckling can lead to permanent damage and deformity.
Symptoms of puppy knuckling over and carpal laxity include:
Weak limbs that ‘shake’ on soft surfaces
Flat toes/splayed feet
Ankles that rest over the top of the foot
Bowing out
Flat feet (another form of carpal laxity)
Crooked front limbs or ‘ballet feet’ (which may also indicate growth plate damage and angular limb deformity, more serious than knuckling)
We’re going to dig more into how diet affects bone growth in large and giant breed puppies below, but before we get there, check your food! If the calcium level is above 1.2% it should NOT be fed.
How to Quickly Fix Puppy Knuckling in Great Danes
I’m going to deep dive into the nutritional and environmental issues related to knuckling below, but if you are reading this article you may be looking for a quick fix.
Here is the long and the short of how to QUICKLY fix puppy knuckling:
Encourage lots of free play on soft, varied terrain such as grass, sand, and gravel
Do NOT use a harness, which can restrict natural movement
Put runners and rugs down in your home
Avoid slick or hard surfaces and jumping
Utilize orthopedic bedding
See your veterinarian for further instruction and monitoring
Here is our heavily researched list of the best foods for Great Dane puppies, especially if they are suffering from any kind of growth or orthopedic disorder:
Check out THE GIANT DOG FOOD PROJECT to compare brands and values.
What Causes Knuckling in Giant Breed Dogs?
While the exact mechanism behind the cause of knuckling still needs more research, there are strong correlations to diet and exercise practices. If you have a puppy that is knuckling over, you MUST immediately address the diet.
A proper diet for a giant breed puppy should be like this:
Large or Giant Breed Puppy OR All Life Stages Formula, NEVER adult-only foods
AAFCO Large Breed Growth Statement – this is a MUST-have
1.2% or less calcium, no exceptions
3.5g of calcium or less per 1000kCal
We’ve partnered with the Giant Dog Food Project to develop a search tool that allows pet owners to sort through nearly 700 brands and formulas, and find the ones that match those values. Visit the Giant Dog Food Project Pet Food Search Tool HERE.
Feeding an unbalanced diet can cause knuckling over
Feeding an unbalanced, nutrient-dense fussy diet is thought to be the leading cause of knuckling. Too much calcium and feeding too much food or too many toppers, treats, and supplements cause the puppy to grow unevenly.
Here is a list of things that cause a diet to be unbalanced:
Poorly formulated kibble (see our recommendations)
Regular puppy foods that were not designed for large+ breed growth
Adding supplements such as calcium or multivitamins
Adding too many unbalanced toppers such as yogurt, cottage cheese, eggs, and meat
Offering too many treats and training treats
Feeding a food that was not formulated for large or giant breed dogs (the ratios are different)
Mixing two or more types of kibble
Home-cooked or homemade raw diets (which are rarely formulated correctly)
Switching diets, especially when doing so often
Feeding a kibble that is not formulated by a veterinary nutritionist or Ph.D. in Animal Nutrition
Do any of the things on the list above apply to you? We will outline them in detail below.
Feeding the wrong kibble
We believe in science.
Science tells us that the only appropriate kibble for a Great Dane puppy is a LARGE or GIANT breed puppy or “All Life Stages” formula from a brand that meets veterinary guidelines for ethics, sourcing, testing, research and responsibility.
You may have heard that Great Dane puppies should “only have adult food”. This information is outdated in 2022 and may actually be dangerous. We’re digging more into the science of this below!
Choosing an appropriate food for your Great Dane puppy means that it should be:
Ideally be formulated by an on-staff, full-time, board-certified Veterinary Nutritionist
A large or giant breed puppy or “all life stages” formulation that was created to support slow, even growth of large and giant breed puppies
Be rigorously tested, researched and subjected to feeding trials
Come from an established brand with lots of peer-reviewed research behind it
Meet nutritional guidelines through feed trials and testing, not just be ‘formulated to meet minimums’ on paper
Less than 3.5g of calcium per 1000kCal
1.2% or less calcium
Calcium to Phosphorus ratio of as close to 1 : 1 as possible
AAFCO’s statement that the food was formulated for the growth of (70+lbs) large breed dogs <—important, although not, AAFCO sets minimums. A food can ‘meet the minimum’ and still not be the healthiest choice.
The following brands and formulations are the only ones that meet the requirements listed above. We do not recommend feeding any other food brands to Great Dane puppies, though many people recommend other foods.
Many pet parents will switch their puppy’s food often in an attempt to resolve chronic loose stools, itching, or ‘pickiness’.
All this does is create a puppy who will refuse to eat until toppers or a different food is offered.Picky dogs are created by, you guessed it, US!
This practice also contributes to poor overall gut health, itching, and loose poop.
People mistake these health issues with ‘allergies’ when really, their pup just needs the right amount of correctly balanced food and some time for their gut to adjust.
Choose a proper science-backed food, measure it with a scale, don’t overfeed, and stick with it.
No matter how ‘healthy’ it may seem to offer ground meat, rice, and veggies in lieu of kibble, home-cooked dog food is rarely balanced correctly. Imagine if you ate that kind of diet every day for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It wouldn’t take long before you started to suffer from malnutrition!
Dogs need correctly balanced meat, bone, and organs in their diet in addition the the right ratios of protein, carbs, fiber, amino acids, nutrients, and minerals.
The website www.balanceit.com allows you to plug in your home-cooked food recipe and see what it’s deficient in. Even recipes made by “canine nutritionists” and celebrity veterinarians are often wildly incorrect.
Homemade diets should only be made under the guidance of a board-certified veterinary nutritionist and NEVER for growing giant breed dogs.
Overfeeding Great Dane Puppies is Bad for Growth
Feeding too much food to a puppy can cause uneven, fast growth, loose stools, and knuckling.
Your puppy does need to eat a LOT of food. But too much is a problem.
Puppies that are offered poorly balanced puppy or adult foods, who then overeat to try and get the nutrition they need, can suffer from chronic loose stools, knuckling, HOD, growing pains, and permanent joint deformities.
Great Dane puppies that are offered ‘adult only’ food in particular may need to eat much more than necessary.
Adult food doesn’t provide them with enough nutrition for their energy levels and muscle development.This is one reason why we see so many teenage Danes with ongoing loose stools that look like walking skeletons with no muscle: they are literally starved for nutrients and will over-eat to try and compensate.
We no longer recommend choosing adult formulas. All Life Stages Large and Giant Breed Formulas are ok.
A science-backed large or giant breed puppy food from Purina, Royal Canin, Hill’s, Eukanuba, or Iam’s are excellent choices.
Puppy kibbles have more nutrition in the form of calories, fat, and protein. This can make it easy to overfeed, especially if you are used to seeing your Dane pups have to gorge themselves on adult formulas.
Watch your puppy’s body condition and adjust accordingly.
Poor nail maintenance and slick floors
Great Dane puppy nails should be trimmed weekly. Do not ever let them get so long that they touch, scrape or click on the ground.
Hard, slick surfaces contribute to early joint damage.
Encourage your puppy to play freely on soft, varied terrain in lieu of walks on hard pavement. Use runners and throw rugs to eliminate slipping and sliding in your home.
Nutrition & Knuckling in Giant Breeds
It is believed that nutrition is a key factor in bone and growth disorders in giant breed dogs. Current research shows that excess calcium is among the most damaging nutritional problems. Because giant breed puppies utilize every bit of calcium offered to them in their diet (they are unable to get rid of it), their bones take all of it in. That would seem like a good thing, except it’s not!
Excessive calcium is linked to a whole slew of bone growth issues including osteochondrosis, hip and elbow dysplasia, angular limb deformities, retained cartilage cores, and more. Some researchers understandably also speculate that these damaged bones are more susceptible to developing things such as Osteosarcoma (bone cancer) and Wobbler disease later in life.
It is extremely important to find and stick to an appropriate balanced diet for your puppy! Unfortunately, the giant breed community still promotes many myths. These myths are NOT rooted in current research and science.
Common Great Dane puppy food myths include:
“Great Dane puppies should never have puppy food”
“Purina, Royal Canin, and Hill’s Dog foods are trash”
“Protein levels MUST be below 24%!”
“Fresh roasted deboned meat, fruits, and veggies are healthy and more nutritious for dogs than meat meals made of muscle, bone, organ, and cartilage”
We recommend:
Protein – ignore this number if you are choosing a professionally balanced food recommended on this page. This is a myth that was disproven by peer-reviewed research. The protein level does not matter. The bioavailability of amino acids, as well as calcium and phosphorus levels, DO matter.
Fat – ignore this number as well, for the same reason as above
Calcium 1.2% or lower (1.3 – 1.4 can also be okay if you do not add any toppers or supplements). Overall calcium intake should never exceed 3.5g per 1000kCal.
Phosphorus is close behind calcium.
The following brands are correctly formulated and tested for the growth of our gentle giants.
There are 300-400 new boutique food brands offered each year in the U.S. When you choose science instead of fancy bags and marketing, it’s easy to narrow the options down.
Foods with fresh ‘deboned meat’ paired with peas, potatoes, fruit and veggies. These foods sound nice but in reality are likely to be heavy in starch and low in meat.
Choosing the correct food for your Great Dane puppy is extremely important! Chat with your breeder and a giant-breed knowledgeable veterinarian for more advice.
Vitamin C for Treating Puppy Knuckling
Many people swear by Vitamin C to aid in the treatment of knuckling in Great Danes. Vitamin C is a known antioxidant that is important in bone formation. However, some researchers say that adding too much to the diet can have the opposite effect.
In addition to addressing the nutritional aspect of knuckling (we recommend switching food immediately with a short transition period), there are other things you can do!
Change the diet ASAP. This is the MOST important step you can take. Stick with what you choose.
Put runners down, everywhere. Your puppy should not be jumping, sliding, running or walking anywhere with a slick surface, especially while treating knuckling.
Do not allow your puppy to jump up or to launch themselves off of furniture. Use ramps, training, crates, and gates to prevent this behavior.
Avoid hard pavement and leashed walks, which are hard on joints and don’t allow the puppy to move naturally.
Don’t run or bike jor with your Dane puppy until they are age 2+, have good hips and feet and are well conditioned to exercise.
Avoid training methods that use physical force and pressure for down/sit, alpha rolls/pinning, extended down-stay or long ‘pack/structure walks’. None of that is healthy, natural or necessary, especially for giant breed puppies.
Limit crate time, which can lead to weakness and poor orthopedic development.
Unless your veterinarian prescribes rest, allow your puppy to freely walk, move, run and explore varied terrain every single day. Grass, sand, gravel, hills, and dirt are great examples. As a bonus, this is great for socialization! Use a long leash or a fenced yard.
Work with a certified Canine physical therapist to strengthen the feet, toes, ankles, shoulders and core.
Choose orthopedic beds, like the BIG BARKER (our personal favorite).
TALK TO YOUR BREEDER! They can be the best resource, especially if you’ve done your research and chosen an ethical breeder that supports your puppy for life.
We always believe that you should also work with a giant-breed experienced veterinarian!
Some bone growth issues are much more serious than knuckling (angular limb deformity, HOD, and Wobblers for example) and it’s important to rule them out.
Have more questions about knuckling or want to share your experience? Leave a comment below!
Great Dane puppies start off small, sleepy and sweet. It’s only a matter of months before they are larger than most dogs (80-100 lbs by 6 months of age) and able to accidentally hurt somebody.
Because they are so large, they also lose their ‘puppy license’ early.
In public, many people may assume that they are adult dogs and have higher expectations of them in regards to their behavior.
WHAT IS THE FIRST THING YOU SHOULD TRAIN YOUR PUPPY?
A Great Dane puppy that pulls, lunges, runs out of doors and ignores commands is an absolute handful to deal with, and that can all happen before they begin to reach sexual maturity (a whole other ball of wax that includes typical teenage shenanigans, among other things.
Basically put, if you wait until your puppy is 4-5 months old before attending a training class or working on anything other than ‘sit’, you’re in trouble.
THE 5 ESSENTIALS FOR PUPPY TRAINING
Here is our list of 5 Things ALL Great Dane Puppies should know by 6 months of age!
Given that most puppies are already 2 months old when they come home, you have 4 months to install calm, confident behavior. Put that work in now and it will pay off!
POTTY TRAINING
CRATE TRAINING
LEASH TRAINING
BASIC OBEDIENCE COMMANDS
PUPPY SOCIALIZATION
In order to train a puppy, pet parents need to be vigilant with training sessions, create a puppy training schedule, and begin training soon after they bring their new puppy home.
POTTY TRAINING A NEW PUPPY
The first of five things that puppy parents are responsible to help their new puppy learn is potty training.
Potty training requires their puppy to begin learning that they cannot pee and poo inside the house, but rather finding a potty spot outside.
Training your puppy to potty outside is not always as easy as it sounds. Young puppies have natural behaviors and learning impulse control for when and where to potty is something that puppies learn over a few weeks time.
Start training your new pup to go outside to go potty right when you bring them home. House training a new puppy can be difficult, but if you are consistent in your efforts, your puppy will catch on quickly.
Pet parents can potty train a puppy with puppy treats and lots of positive reinforcement. Spend longer periods of time outside with your new pup, if possible. Using food rewards, begin training your puppy where you would like them to potty.
We do not recommend putting your puppy’s nose in their pee while they are potty training as this could confuse them and teach your new puppy that you are the dominant one and they are powerless.
CRATE TRAINING A NEW PUPPY
The second of the five things that all puppies should learn is crate training. Crate training a new puppy is important for several reasons:
It creates a safe space for your puppy to stay when you are not able to supervise them. Puppies have a natural denning instinct and will often seek out a small, cosy space to rest in.
A crate can provide that for your puppy when they are first learning to stay calm and relaxed in your home.
Crating your new puppy will set the puppy’s life up for success by teaching them that not everything in the world is for them to chew on or play with. Puppies are notorious for chewing and getting into things, so crate training can help to manage that natural puppy behavior.
Crate puppy training can also be used as a management tool when company comes over or if there is something going on in the house that is too stimulating for your new puppy. It allows you to have peace of mind knowing that your new puppy is safe and not getting into anything they shouldn’t be.
It is important to start training sessions with your new dog on the leash as soon as possible. Your pup will probably show aversion to the leash at first, but dog’s learn quickly that a leash usually equates to something fun!
Using a food lure, show your dog that you’d like them in a sitting position, then you can put the leash on to your pup.
Show them how to walk politely. If your dog likes to jump ahead, slowly begin training your dog basic manners on the leash.
Never allow a puppy to pull or learn that pulling ‘works’. This may mean adjusting your expectations: puppies do NOT need long walks, so it’s generally fairly easy to avoid practicing poor leash skills.
Loose leash walking is largely a socialization issue: puppies that are generally understimulated (bored), anxious and fearful or over-excited by the environment tend to pull, whine, lunge, jump and try to run.
PUPPY SOCIALIZATION IS RELATED TO LEASH TRAINING YOUR PUP
Put the time in now to reinforce engagement, calm behavior and staying nearby.
As above, calm leash manners are largely related to proper socialization. Confident puppies that are desensitized to the world are much less likely to be pull like a freight train, a behavior that is often driven by anxiety or excitement.
Check out our blog post on Great Dane puppy socialization for more tips! That said. even well-socialized, calm and confident dogs can quickly learn that pulling gets them where they want to go. You still need to train the correct behavior and reinforce appropriate leash skills EARLY and often.
FUN LEASH GAMES THAT CAN BE PLAYED FOR THE ENTIRE LIFE OF A DOG
Reward your puppy for eye contact several times. When your puppy is engaged and interested, turn your back.
When your puppy comes to the front to find you, say “YES!” and give a treat. Turn your back again and take a step away.
The puppy will come to find the treat, say “YES!” and give a treat. Make this FUN! Work up to turning your back and walking all over the house. A puppy that has been taught this fun game will follow you and stay close.
This is early loose-leash walking with engagement (eye contact)! Practice this game in your living room, in the backyard, and on a long leash (15+ feet) in the front yard.
Make it fun, exciting, and increasingly more difficult for the puppy to ‘keep up’ with you! *If your puppy seems uninterested, try playing this game later in a lower distraction area. A boring bedroom for example, and use HIGHER value treats to start. Make sure your puppy has also had enough play time AND nap time.
THE WITH ME GAME – EARLY FOUNDATION FOR HEEL
Some people call it ‘with me’, others call it ‘heel’.
Position yourself so that the dog is on the side you want to build the behavior on (most people choose the left side for the dog). Keep the leash in the hand OPPOSITE your puppy.
Put a high value treat in your fist and hold it in front of your puppies nose. They will sniff and as you walk forward, they will walk with you.
Practice this many times until you can eliminate the ‘lure’ of your fist, take several steps and then reward your puppy for walking next to you. Remember to use a lot of praise directed to your dog all throughout training!
In a matter of weeks, with consistent practice, you’ll be able to walk with your pup, all over your house and turn left or right and your puppy will stay glued to your left side without frequent treats and without lures. Deliver rewards more and more sporadically as the behavior becomes stronger.
Practice this skill everywhere. Indoors, in your yard, in your front yard, in a training class, in a park where children and other dogs are there to generate distractions, at a pet-friendly store.
Start easy and work your way up!
BASIC OBEDIENCE COMMANDS
From the very day your adorable new puppy comes home, reward eye contact and engagement as often as possible. Basic commands can be taught by doing activities where your pup learns that it is fun to stay engaged with you! You are your dog’s advocate. Dogs learn by having fun. Keep training sessions short and get active with training your dog.
TRAINING YOUR PUPPY TO COME
If your puppy comes to you, PRAISE! YES!
The practice of seeking out your attention and your eye contact is VERY important and one that will pay off if you spend a lot of time rewarding it.
THE LOOK AT ME GAME
Have your puppy or dog sit or engage with you.
Say ‘LOOK!’ and hold a treat by your eye. When your puppy looks at you, say ‘YES!’ and deliver the treat. This activity is training your new pup that eye contact is a positive!
As your puppy understands, fade out the treat lure and just point to your eye, then eventually fade out pointing to your eye and just say “LOOK!”.
You want your puppy to automatically make eye contact with youwhen you say the word “LOOK” or when you say their name.
This skill is phenomenally important when you want (or need) to redirect your puppy back to you.
ENGAGEMENT GAME TIME
Toss a treat away from you, just a few feet away.
The puppy will run and grab it, let them have it.
Be energetic and say your puppies name. As SOON as your puppy turns their head back to you, say “YES!” and then reward your puppy with a treat.
Play this game several times in different places. Toss the treat farther away, to the side, etc. Make this fun!
TEACH YOUR DOG TO TOUCH YOUR PALM WITH THEIR NOSE
Teach your puppy to boop their nose to your open palm. This is an excellent ‘alternate’ behavior that can be used to redirect your puppy away from other dogs, people and even barking.
To teach ‘touch’, hold your hand open. Your puppy will probably go to sniff or see what you have. Immediately say “YES!” then offer a small treat.
Practice this behavior for no more than a minute, and then use it often at home.
When your puppy clearly understands that touch always means ‘touch the hand’, you can make the game more complicated by moving your hand into different places.
Between your legs, up high, down low, etc.
If you see your puppy start to focus on something, try the TOUCH command. With practice, you’ll find that it’s a really valuable tool for redirecting your dogs attention away from something and back to you.
PUPPY SOCIALIZATION
Basic commands go alongside puppy socialization. You do not need to attend group classes with your dog to have the perfect pup, although you can certainly get your pup with other puppies if you want to.
To keep your puppy engaged, practice some skills that will help them in the real world.
One of the biggest ‘socialization’ mistakes people make is allowing excited, squealing humans to greet their puppy. This either terrifies the puppy (making them fearful and aloof towards strangers) OR makes them extremely jumpy and wiggly when greeting people because they associate the experience with elevated excitement levels.
Neither version of that is a good look for a 100+ lb adolescent Great Dane!
Practicing calm greetings early are essential for creating dogs that can meet people and go anywhere without fear, nipping, jumping, peeing or other submissive (belly up) & excited behaviors.
CALM GREETINGS GAME TIME
Contrary to popular belief, your puppy does NOT have to meet every person and dog that comes along.
Many people do not like dogs, and some especially do not like large dogs that pull hard to come at them! It’s also true that many dogs do NOT like other dogs, so it’s important to teach your puppy how to ignore dogs instead of pulling to get to them.
One of the most important skills you can teach your puppy is that people and dogs are everywhere, and that’s all there is to it.
BONUS: this is great for socialization!
PEOPLE WATCHING
Sit on your lawn or in a park and just watch people walking by. Watch a variety of people on bikes, carrying children, walking dogs, pushing strollers, etc.
Watch, and use your ‘LOOK’ and ‘TOUCH’ commands to encourage your puppy to focus on you, not on the environment.
Note: If your puppy is fearful OR excited, move farther away from where people and dogs are and keep practicing. You’ll eventually be able to move closer, especially if you are consistently rewarding your puppy for focusing on you.
SAY HELLO TO NEW FRIENDS FROM AFAR
Have a friend stop to greet you from afar. Say hello and have a little chat, but have your friend IGNORE your puppy.
This helps teach the puppy that they will not be greeted by every person or dog who comes along.
Remember to redirect your puppy back to you with LOOK and TOUCH, and back up several feet from your friend if your puppy cannot focus on you.
Over time you’ll not only be able to move closer, but your friend will be able to greet your puppy!
CALM GREETING PRACTICE
It’s much easier to teach calm greetings with dogs that are well socialized (have calmly watched tons of people and dogs walk by) and engaged with you. Keep building that foundation.
To practice calm greetings, keep your puppy on a leash, and have your friend approach.
If your puppy tries to jump and pull, choose one of the following:
Ask for a LOOK or TOUCH, if those behaviors are very strong
Immediately do an about face. You can say ‘uh-oh’ and turn and walk AWAY.
With practice, your puppy will learn that jumping and pulling means they will NOT be allowed to greet people and dogs, and that approaching calmly is the key.
If your puppy has already been allowed to practice jumping and pulling to greet people and dogs, this behavior can be difficult to work with…especially when your puppy is 75lbs and counting!
HIRING A DOG TRAINER
We highly recommend you find a highly qualified trainer to help you if you are struggling!
When meeting strangers, do NOT be afraid to advocate for your dog! Say “I’d love to have you greet my dog, can you please help us?”
You can give them a treat to give your puppy, and tell them that you want your puppy to calmly wait while they approach. They will reward the puppy with a treat and your puppy will learn two things: calm behavior = attention from humans AND food!
Such a great lesson.
GO TO YOUR PLACE
Teaching a puppy to ‘go to a mat’ is easy to do and creates a behavior that can be taken anywhere.
You can use a yoga mat, towel, or elevated surface (KLIMB platform or Kuranda Cot) for this.
If your puppy can calmly lay on a mat and ignore distractions, you can take your puppy anywhere and they will have the mat to keep them calm and contained when needed.
Imagine how valuable this skill could be while having guests over, visiting family, sitting in the vets office or even camping!
This skill is especially helpful for excited dogs that have a hard time settling.
PLACE SKILLS GAME TIME
One of the most simple ways to create early mat skills is to integrate the mat from day one.
Put the mat or elevated surface in the room and randomly leave treats on it for your puppy to find.
This particular version is especially helpful if you want your dog puppy to have a dedicated lounging space in your home.
For creating a more portable mat situation, try this.
Place the towel or cot on the floor. Immediately reward your puppy with a “YES” and treat for investigating.
Then toss a treat AWAY from the mat. Your puppy will chase the treat and then come back. As soon as they come near the mat, sniff it or step on it, say “YES” and offer another treat.
Repeat this game until your puppy learns that coming onto the mat is VERY rewarding.
Add the ‘FREE’ and ‘MAT’ commands.
Say FREE and toss the treat away from the mat. Then when the puppy comes back, say ‘Go to your mat’ and reward the puppy for putting all four paws on the mat.
Work this skill up to the puppy actually laying on the mat. Step away just a bit then reward again.
Gradually you’ll be able to walk away from the mat and have your puppy calmly stay on it until you say FREE.
SOCIALIZATION HOLES AND GAPS
Holes in your socialization and training will become very, very clear when your puppy is around 6-9 months of age. It is around that point where fearful behavior, aggression, barking, pulling, and ignoring recall and other commands can become a real problem.
It’s extremely important to install as many positive, calm skills as possible when your puppy is young!
Even the best training will be challenged by an adolescent puppy; anticipate that at some point, your dog will attempt to defy all of these things that you’ve spent hours teaching.
It is at that point which you need to continue teaching, continue reinforcing, and continue managing behavior so that your puppy has more successes than failures.
VACCINATIONS
We do not recommend waiting until your puppy is fully vaccinated to begin socialization and training!
Training classes should begin as soon as possible. Most trainers will have puppies begin class at 10 – 12 weeks of age; they are well aware of risk and will keep a clean and sanitized facility.
If you are worried about disease, you can hire a trainer to come to your home and teach you and your puppy valuable early skills.
Puppies are so sleepy at first that many people think they have an ‘easy’ puppy.
The puppy does eventually ‘wake up’ but the bad habits and poor socialization skills have already been installed.
This problem paired with the size and power of Great Danes is a big reason that so many end up surrendered in their adolescent months.
Choose only ethical breeders with a lifetime return guarantee (no dogs in rescue, ever) and make sure that you understand the responsibility that comes with owning, and being loved by a Great Dane.
Puppyhood is a time to set your dog up for success in life, not just the next few months.
Chew toys, chew toys, and more chew toys. Your puppy is going to want to chew on EVERYTHING.
Make sure that you have an adequate supply of safe things that your pup can chew on during training. A chew toy could help your pup learn what is right and wrong in regards to chewing.
TRAINING A PUP TO GROW UP INTO A RESPONSIBLE DOG IS NOT ALWAYS EASY
Puppy training tips are everywhere, but ultimately puppy training comes down to owners being willing to dedicate time, patience, and consistency to the process.
You need to be willing to:
Set limits
Create a schedule
Stick to that schedule
Provide plenty of chew toys
Make sure your puppy has plenty of socialization opportunities
Take your pup to training classes
Remember, your puppy is counting on you to help them grow up into a well-behaved, responsible dog. Don’t let them down!
Choosing the right food for a Great Dane sometimes feels like rocket science. We get it because we’ve been there. Selecting the right food for your Great Dane is crucial for maintaining its health and well-being, so this is important! Our Great Dane Dog Food 101 post cuts through the fluff and gives you the best and most up-to-date answer.
This post covers several Great Dane food topics including:
How much dog food does a Great Dane need?
What is the best food for Great Danes?
Is Grain-free food good for dogs?
Should pet owners be feeding large breed puppies puppy food or adult food?
What does a senior dog need to be eating?
Let’s dive into the best dog food as well as get answers to other commonly asked questions.
Great Dane Dog Food Nutritional Requirements
Giant breed dogs, such as Great Danes, possess distinct nutritional needs due to their size, growth rate, and physiological characteristics. The sheer magnitude of their bodies requires careful attention to nutrient levels to support healthy bone development and prevent musculoskeletal issues.
It is well-studied, for example, that excess calcium is damaging to growing bones. Giant breeds undergo rapid growth during their puppy stage, making their nutritional requirements specific to this critical phase.
Additionally, their slower metabolism and susceptibility to health conditions necessitate controlled calorie intake and a balanced diet to avoid obesity-related complications.
Here is our shortlist of requirements. Check each one of these items to narrow down your choices!
Calcium level of 1.0 – 1.3%, ideally less than 1.2%
3.5g or less of calcium per 1000kCal
For puppies under the age of two: AAFCO Large Breed Growth Statement
Formulated for large or giant breed dogs
Grain inclusive (never feed grain-free dry kibble, more on this below)
Ideally formulated by a company with a board-certified Veterinary Nutritionist on staff, that does feeding trials and nutritional research
At Hello Danes, we researched this for you and recommend the following formulas (for your convenience). All of these meet the current science-backed recommendations:
Determining the appropriate amount of food for Great Danes requires a balanced approach, taking into account their size, age, activity level, and individual metabolism. The food you choose matters, too.
Generally, adult Great Danes may consume between 2,500 to 3,500 calories per day, but this can vary. Puppies, during their rapid growth phase, may require up to twice the amount of calories compared to adult dogs!
It’s crucial to follow feeding guidelines provided by reputable dog food brands and to monitor the dog’s weight and condition regularly.
Feeding too much to puppies can contribute to orthopedic growth disorders, and feeding too much to adults can contribute to obesity-related health problems.
Consulting with a veterinarian to tailor the diet to the dog’s specific needs and adjusting portion sizes based on age and activity level is key to maintaining optimal health and weight in Great Danes.
I’ve seen puppies eat 6-12 cups/day, while adults may eat only 3-7 cups, depending on the nutrient density of the food.
Author’s Note: The outdated practice of feeding adult food to Great Dane puppies is NOT recommended. It often results in above-average food intake, because the puppy is starved for protein and nutrients. Read more about this HERE.
Never Overfeed a Great Dane
More is not always better when it comes to feeding your dog. Overfeeding can lead to health problems like obesity and digestive issues.
Great Dane puppies that are fed too much will grow too quickly, putting them at risk for developmental orthopedic conditions such as Panosteitis, HOD, OCD, and Carpal Laxity.
In many cases, chronic loose stools can be attributed to excess intake of food! Cutting back is a healthy choice.
Accelerated Growth: Overfeeding can lead to rapid growth in puppies, contributing to musculoskeletal issues and joint problems.
Obesity: Overfeeding contributes to obesity, placing extra stress on joints and exacerbating existing health concerns.
Digestive Issues: Consuming more food than necessary can lead to digestive problems, including indigestion and diarrhea.
Reduced Lifespan: Overweight dogs are more prone to various health issues, potentially reducing their lifespan.
In adult dogs, overfeeding increases the risk of many conditions, including surgical complications. For overweight dogs that get Osteosarcoma, life-saving amputation surgery may not be an option.
Many people are tempted to feed their Great Danes too much food out of concern that they are too thin! They are rarely undernourished.
For dogs that refuse food and lose weight doing so, a medical emergency is indicated. This is not a sign to add fatty foods to the diet.
Here are some common health problems associated with excess weight in adult dogs:
Arthritis: Overfeeding can contribute to excessive weight gain, placing additional stress on the joints and increasing the likelihood of developing arthritis in dogs.
Joint Problems: Excessive weight can lead to joint issues, including hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia, affecting the dog’s mobility and comfort.
Cardiovascular Conditions: Overweight dogs are at a higher risk of developing cardiovascular problems, such as heart disease and hypertension.
Respiratory Issues: Obesity can strain the respiratory system, leading to difficulties in breathing and increased susceptibility to respiratory infections.
Reduced Immune Function: Excessive weight can compromise the immune system, making dogs more susceptible to infections and illnesses.
Liver Disease: Overfeeding may contribute to the development of liver problems, impacting the organ’s function and overall health.
Decreased Quality of Life: Dogs that are overfed and overweight may experience a reduced quality of life due to limited mobility, discomfort, and increased vulnerability to various health issues.
Can Great Danes Eat Grain-Free Food?
In recent years, concerns have been raised about a potential link between certain grain-free diets and a serious heart condition called dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM). While not exclusive to Great Danes, this breed, like others, may be susceptible to DCM if their diet lacks proper nutrients.
DCM is a condition where the heart becomes enlarged and weakened, affecting its ability to pump blood efficiently.
Several studies have suggested a likely connection between grain-free or boutique diets and an increased risk of DCM. In some cases, the condition is reversed with a diet change, indicating substantial theories that diet does indeed play a huge role in heart health (just as it does in humans!).
Many holistic veterinarians and influencers promote that grain-free foods “have more meat and fewer carbs and fillers”. They also believe that removing grains from the diet can help resolve allergies, itching, and digestive issues.
This is an absolute myth. At least, the part about having “more meat and less carbs”, is. Grain-free dry diets are loaded with carbs in the form of lentils, potatoes, peas, and other legumes…not more meat as marketing has led us to believe.
In our popular Great Dane group on Facebook, several members have come forward to tell us their stories of losing (or nearly losing) their beloved Great Danes to heart disease after feeding them grain-free foods. Until we have more information, it’s just not worth the (very real) risk.
If you have a Great Dane suffering from an unhealthy gut, allergies, and itching, perhaps a trip to a veterinary dermatologist or veterinary internist is in order. They have other treatment options that will be ultimately safer and more effective.
Feeding Guidelines for Great Dane Puppies
You cannot feed a Great Dane Puppy the same way that you feed an adult dog. Great Dane puppies must have a diet with strictly controlled calcium, phosphorus, vitamin, mineral, and energy levels.
Here are some general feeding guidelines to ensure the healthy development of your Great Dane puppy:
Large or Giant Breed Puppy Food: Choose a puppy food specially formulated for large breeds. Look for options that specify “large breed” or “giant breed” on the packaging, as these diets typically address the specific nutritional requirements of growing Great Danes.
Balanced Calcium and Phosphorus: Ensure the puppy food has a balanced ratio of calcium to phosphorus, typically ranging from 1:1 to 1.2:1. This helps support proper bone development and minimizes the risk of skeletal issues.
Caloric Intake: Great Dane puppies have a high metabolism, but it’s crucial not to overfeed. Follow the feeding guidelines on the food packaging, but individualize portions based on your puppy’s age, weight, and activity level. Regularly monitor their weight and adjust portions as needed.
Meal Frequency: Feed young Great Dane puppies three to four meals per day to accommodate their fast growth and reduce the risk of bloat. As they mature, you can gradually transition to two meals per day.
Avoid Rapid Growth: While it’s essential to support growth, avoid overfeeding to prevent excessively rapid growth. This helps reduce the risk of musculoskeletal issues, including hip dysplasia.
Treats and Table Scraps: Limit treats and table scraps, as excessive treats can contribute to weight gain. Too many goodies will unbalance the diet and encourage picky eating.
Regular Veterinary Check-ups: Schedule regular check-ups with your veterinarian to monitor your Great Dane’s growth and ensure they are meeting developmental milestones. Your vet can provide guidance on adjusting the diet as needed.
Here is our list of foods that meet all recommendations for Great Dane puppies. They need to stay on an appropriate formula until age 2. This is the most current recommendation (2023-2024).
Check out THE GIANT DOG FOOD PROJECT to compare brands and values.
Supplements for Great Danes
Navigating the world of supplements for Great Danes is like walking into a Jungle! There are so many options and a lot of companies trying to get our money. The supplement industry is largely unregulated!
It’s easy for companies to bring new-fangled options to market. All they have to do is pay a factory to manufacture their products and package them with a well-designed label.
The truth is that many supplements are not proven, not researched, not carefully manufactured, and may do more harm than good.
When considering supplements for your Great Dane, stick to brands that are both veterinary recommended and/or have the NASC Seal (which is obtained by proving the safety and potency of the formula being sold).
Never give a multivitamin or multi-supplement. If your pet’s diet is properly balanced, a vitamin or mineral supplement may result in excess nutrients such as vitamin D and calcium intake. This can result in a slew of nutritional problems. More is not better!
Here are some supplements you might consider!
The Best Fish Oil for Great Danes
Great Danes are prone to many health conditions. Some include food allergies, skin issues, joint conditions, and digestion problems.
Fish oil is a great way to support large breeds regardless of the dog’s age. It can be given at any life stage, in moderation. Because fish oil is high in fats, it does add a lot of calories to the diet. Watch your pet’s body condition score and don’t let them become overweight!
Buyer beware, not all fish oils are created equal. With any product you choose, you must verify that the company is using exceptional quality control and proving its supplements in clinical and safety trials.
Nutramax Welactinis a great example of a fish oil that is carefully sourced and formulated, manufactured by a company that backs up their promises with clinical research and industry-leading quality control.
Joint Supplements for Big Dogs
There are MANY joint support options on the market, and like the others, it can be hard to choose. Save your money! Don’t even consider ones that don’t have clinical research and owned manufacturing facilities.
We use and recommend Dasaquin and Cosuquin products.
A lot of Great Dane breeders recommend giving all puppies a lot of vitamin C to “prevent knuckling”.
This practice is not backed by science. Like many home remedies, this is one that may do more harm than good.
See, here is the thing. Puppies DO need vitamin C in their diet. At one time, decades ago, pet food manufacturers didn’t know how to formulate food for giant breed puppies.
As a result of incorrect nutritional levels, big puppies were experiencing all sorts of problems with growth including Carpal Laxity and growing pains. In response, breeders tried all sorts of things!
They tried feeding adult foods to slow growth (you’ve probably heard this outdated and damaging recommendation before!) and adding vitamin C to promote healthy bones and collagen development. These remedies seemed to work, and this advice has stuck around in the giant breed community for decades now.
There is a fair amount of clinical research showing the important role that vitamin C plays in bone growth and stability!
“Overall, vitamin C exerts a positive effect on trabecular bone formation by influencing expression of bone matrix genes in osteoblasts.”
Now it’s 2023 and modern large and giant breed puppy foods have been formulated correctly to remove dietary influence on bone growth disorders. We no longer have to starve our puppies of nutrition on adult foods to slow their growth.
These new foods also contain the correct amount of vitamin C to support healthy bone and cartilage development. There is not too little, nor is there too much.
Reread the above quote about “influencing [the] expression of bone matrix genes in osteoblasts”. To put this simply, in the context of wanting to SLOW bone growth and prevent the bones from maturing too quickly, we have to consider once again that over-supplementation may be harmful.
I’d also like to point out that too many Great Dane puppies suffer from chronic loose stools. This is a side effect of excess vitamin C.
Don’t blame those loose stools on chicken or grains; look at your supplements, first.
Great Dane Feeding Chart
The numbers on the chart below can vary depending on the food you feed, your dog’s age, their overall health, and their activity level. If your pet receives a lot of additional calories in the form of treats, toppers, enrichment toys, and supplements this chart will be inaccurate.
We recommend offering puppies 3 small meals a day. Transition to 2 meals each day at around 6-8 months of age, if you wish.
This chart is just a guideline of what you can generally expect when feeding a proper diet that meets WSAVA recommendations. Follow the manufacturer’s directions and your veterinarian’s advice. Always monitor body condition, too! Fast growth and excess weight are bad for Great Danes. Err on the side of caution.
Pro Tip: if your dog has loose stools, you may be overfeeding them!
Age
Timing
Amount
Puppies under 12 weeks
3x/day
2-4 cups/day
Puppies 12-24 weeks old
3x/day
3-6 cups/day
Puppies 24 + weeks (6 months) or older
2x/day
5-10 cups/day
Puppies 12-18 months
2x/day
6-12 cups/day
Adults 18+ Months
2x/day
4-8 cups/day
These values are averages. Your pet may need more or less. Always talk to your veterinarian and use the manufacturer’s feeding chart as a guideline.
Pet Food Ingredients 101
Distinguishing between fact and fiction is crucial when making informed choices while selecting pet food. Common misconceptions can arise regarding ingredients such as by-products and grains.
A lot of misinformation about pet food is spread by profit-driven influencers and veterinarians who want to drive sales for their books, courses, and supplements.
Not to mention the millions of dollars made by pet food rating websites such as Dog Food Advisor. They earn money every time you click.
Here is some information about pet food ingredients that mirrors what board-certified veterinary nutritionists have to say on the topic!
Chicken Meal and By-Product Meal in Dog Food
Meals (such as chicken meal, beef meal, salmon meal, or chicken by-product meal) in dog food are essentially a concentrated and dehydrated form of meat, excluding moisture content.
When utilized in well-formulated pet foods, meat meals are far superior to ‘fresh meat’ or ‘raw meat’ in terms of nutritional content, protein, and balanced amino acids.
To put this simply, pet food companies that attempt to woo you with “freshly roasted meat” as the primary or only meat ingredient may be making up for the resulting nutritional deficiency in the synthetic vitamins (which are in all pet foods). Some companies have to use more added vitamins than others.
Fresh meat is 80% water and doesn’t have bone, organ, or cartilage in it; these are nutrient-dense and biologically appropriate foods for dogs, even if they don’t sound good to all humans.
Chicken By-Product meals from companies like Royal Canin are a nutritious and high-quality source of protein that is more similar to a properly formulated raw diet than anything else. If you’ve heard otherwise, you’ve been misled.
I don’t know about you, but I am SICK and tired of predatory influencers that spread misinformation in exchange for profits. Let’s move onward…
Rice & Corn
Rice and corn are commonly included in dog food for several nutritional reasons. While many influencers have disparaged these ingredients, they are desirable when feeding Great Danes!
Energy Source: Both rice and corn are excellent sources of carbohydrates, providing a readily available energy source. Carbohydrates are crucial for fueling the day-to-day activities and metabolic functions of dogs.
Digestibility: Rice, in particular, is easily digestible for dogs, making it a suitable option for those with sensitive stomachs. Corn, when processed properly, is also digestible (more digestible than beef, actually) and provides dogs with essential nutrients.
Fiber Content: These grains contain dietary fiber, which aids in promoting healthy digestion. Adequate fiber in a dog’s diet supports regular bowel movements and helps prevent constipation. It can also reduce the risk of bloat!
Nutrient Profile: Rice and corn bring a range of essential nutrients to the table, including vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. These nutrients contribute to overall health and well-being, supporting functions such as immune system maintenance and skin health.
Cost-Effective: Both rice and corn are cost-effective ingredients, which can contribute to making dog food more affordable without compromising on nutritional value. This affordability allows pet owners to provide their dogs with quality nutrition at a reasonable cost.
Alternative Protein Source: While not as high in protein as meat, rice, and corn can still contribute to the overall protein content of the diet. This can be beneficial for dogs that may have allergies to certain meat proteins or for pet owners looking to diversify protein sources.
Gluten-Free Option: Rice is naturally gluten-free, making it a suitable option for dogs with sensitivities or allergies to gluten-containing grains. This provides a grain alternative for dogs with specific dietary requirements.
It’s important to note that the quality of rice and corn in dog food depends on factors such as sourcing, processing, and overall formulation. Responsible pet food manufacturers carefully select and process these ingredients to ensure they meet the nutritional needs of dogs.
Additionally, individual dogs may have unique dietary requirements, so consulting with a veterinarian can help tailor a diet that best suits a particular dog’s health and preferences.
Panosteitis, commonly referred to as “growing pains” or “pano,” manifests as a painful and distressing condition observed in Great Dane puppies. Large and giant breed dogs grow extremely fast during puppyhood, and fast growth is associated with several disorders. Panosteitis in Great Dane puppies is a condition characterized by inflammation in the long bones of the limbs, causing intermittent lameness and discomfort.
If you have a Great Dane pup that is in pain, they may have panosteitis!
In this post, we will cover:
Symptoms of growing pains in dogs
What causes panosteitis
How to prevent growing pains in puppies
Treatments and therapies for managing panosteitis
The role of balanced diet in reducing the risk of growth disorders in large & giant breed puppies
Symptoms of Panosteitis Growing Pains in Puppies
It’s important to note that MANY growth disorders cause similar symptoms. If your puppy is sick, limping, flat-footed or buckling over, lame, lethargic, painful, or has growth plates that are warm to the touch, you must see a veterinarian immediately.
Our blog will provide you with a starting point. The symptoms of panosteitis include:
Intermittent Lameness: Puppies with panosteitis often experience shifting lameness, moving from one limb to another.
Reluctance to Bear Weight: Affected pups may show hesitancy or reluctance to put weight on the limb, leading to a noticeable limp.
Migrating Lameness: The condition may cause lameness to shift between the front and hind legs over time.
Altered Gait: Panosteitis can result in changes to the puppy’s gait, contributing to an observable limp or awkward movement.
Lethargy: Puppies with growing pains may exhibit signs of lethargy, displaying reduced energy levels and overall activity.
Reduced Physical Activity: Due to pain and discomfort, affected puppies might be less inclined to engage in normal physical activities.
Swelling: Swelling around the affected limb can be present, often accompanied by sensitivity to touch.
Varied Severity: Symptoms can vary in severity, and the duration of discomfort may differ from one puppy to another.
Veterinary Consultation: Timely consultation with a veterinarian is essential for accurate diagnosis and appropriate management of panosteitis in growing puppies.
What Causes Panosteitis in Puppies?
As with many disorders and conditions seen in Great Danes, the exact cause is still unknown. Many theories have floated around, however! It is believed that there are dietary, environmental, and genetic components.
Some puppies will suffer from panosteitis even if you do “everything right”.
If your puppy is from a breeder, they must be aware so that they can address the issue from the ground up. Ideally, they should not be seeing this condition regularly pop up in their litters; if they do, that’s a sign that something is not right.
Genetic Predisposition: Great Danes, a large and giant breed, may have a genetic predisposition to panosteitis.
Rapid Growth: The fast growth phase during puppyhood, characteristic of large breeds, is thought to contribute to the development of panosteitis. Never accelerate growth with fatty foods and nutritional supplements!
Nutritional Factors: Imbalances or inadequacies in diet, especially regarding calcium and phosphorus levels, are believed to play a role in panosteitis.
Hormonal Influences: Hormonal fluctuations during the growth phase may contribute to the inflammation observed in panosteitis.
Immune System Response: Some theories suggest that panosteitis may result from an immune system response, although the exact mechanisms are not fully understood.
Environmental Factors: Certain environmental factors or stressors may exacerbate the development of panosteitis in susceptible Great Dane puppies. Hard, slick floors are an example of an environmental factor.
Viral or Bacterial Infections: While less common, infections have been considered potential triggers for panosteitis in some cases.
Exercise Intensity: Excessive or intense exercise, especially in rapidly growing puppies, is believed to be a contributing factor.
Hormonal Changes: Fluctuations in hormonal levels during the growth phase may contribute to the development of panosteitis in Great Dane puppies.
For most dogs, growing pains are likely a complex interaction of multiple factors.
What Age Do Dogs Get Panosteitis?
Growing giant breed dogs are not considered mature until age 2 (or after the growth plates have closed). This means that panosteitis can be diagnosed at nearly any time before that! It is most often seen between 4 and 18 months of age.
Male dogs are affected more often than female dogs, presumably because they tend to be larger.
However, panosteitis can occur in the long bones of a dog of any age.
How is Panosteitis Diagnosed?
A veterinarian may want to do x-rays, in particular, to rule out more serious bone growth disorders that may present in a similar fashion (retained cartilage cores or HOD, for example).
The veterinarian will feel the bones of your puppy and look for a pain response.
A radiograph of the affected bones may then show increased bone density, which can help to verify the diagnosis of Panosteitis.
X-rays may require that your puppy be sedated. Work with a veterinarian that you trust! This necessary step can ensure that your pup can have the radiographs taken without excessive use of handling (which can be painful and stressful to a puppy suffering from growing pains).
The good news is that Pano (Panosteitis) is generally mild and self-limiting. Most dogs outgrow the condition and suffer no long-term effects.
This does NOT mean that you shouldn’t seek diagnosis and treatment!
Panosteitis can be very painful for the puppy. Your veterinarian can prescribe anti-inflammatories and medications to help treat the condition. Changes to your pup’s diet and exercise routine may also be prescribed (more on this below).
How Long Do Puppy Growing Pains Last?
Pano typically impacts the affected leg /affected bone of one or more limbs for a few days to a few weeks. It will often then switch to a different limb.
This can go on for several months, especially if left untreated!
The good news is that panosteitis is not a degenerative condition; unlike other puppy growth disorders, it does not cause long-term damage to the bones.
The Role of Diet in Healthy Large Puppy Growth
Nutrition plays a pivotal role in the development of healthy bones, joints, and overall skeletal structure, particularly in breeds like Great Danes, known for their substantial size and explosive growth.
Feeding a nutrient-dense, calorie-dense food with high calcium levels is devastating to them. This is a common problem seen in boutique food brands designed for regular (not large/giant breed) puppies. Do not fall prey to marketing!
Instead, choose a large or giant breed puppy food that was designed to support slow, even growth.
Large-breed puppy formulas are designed to maintain the delicate equilibrium between essential nutrients, such as calcium and phosphorus, ensuring that the skeletal system develops at a controlled rate.
Overnutrition, especially in terms of excessive caloric intake or improper ratios of key nutrients, can lead to a spectrum of issues, including skeletal abnormalities and conditions like panosteitis.
The food you choose for your Great Dane puppy is of fundamental importance. The only foods we recommend feeding (especially for puppies suffering from Panosteitis) are listed below:
Check out THE GIANT DOG FOOD PROJECT to compare brands and values.
What Dogs Get Panosteitis?
While growing pains can affect all dogs, this particular disorder disproportionally affects large and giant breed puppies.
Big dogs grow incredibly fast and the bones, muscles, and tendons need to be coordinated during this time. The dogs listed below are most susceptible to panosteitis:
German Shepherds
Labrador Retrievers
Basset Hounds
Great Danes
Doberman Pinschers
How Long Do Panosteitis Episodes Last?
The duration of panosteitis episodes in dogs, including Great Danes, can vary widely and is influenced by several factors.
Generally, each episode may last anywhere from a few days to several weeks.
The intermittent nature of panosteitis, characterized by shifting lameness and periods of relative comfort, adds to the variability in episode duration. Some puppies may experience shorter and milder episodes, while others may endure more prolonged and pronounced discomfort.
The age of onset also plays a role, with panosteitis typically affecting puppies between the ages of 5 to 18 months during their rapid growth phase. As the affected dog matures, the frequency and intensity of episodes often diminish.
However, individual responses to treatment, environmental factors, and the overall health of the dog can influence the length and severity of panosteitis episodes. Veterinarians play a crucial role in managing the condition, offering tailored treatment plans and guidance to alleviate symptoms and ensure the well-being of the growing canine companion.
How Can I Treat My Puppy’s Growing Pains?
If you are seeing clinical signs of Pano, a veterinary visit is recommended.
We highly recommend switching to a large or giant breed puppy food that meets WSAVA guidelines and making changes to your routine to eliminate environmental factors such as hard floors.
Do not feed supplements or toppers of any kind to your pano puppy.
Additionally, the following things can help:
Pain Medication and Anti-inflammatories as prescribed by your Veterinarian.
Use runners, yoga mats, and rugs on your floor as your dog’s activity on slippery surfaces can cause more pain.
Keep puppy nails short.
Regular short, gentle walks on soft varied terrain such as grass, sand, and gravel will help to keep muscles toned without stressing the bones. Use a long leash and avoid restrictive no-pull harnesses.
Apply a warm compress to the affected area, such as this one from Amazon. Follow the directions for safety, please!
Feed a balanced, science-based, and tested large or giant breed puppy food (read more HERE)
Do not overfeed or encourage your puppy to eat a lot.
Acupuncture, laser therapy, and CBD can help with pain relief in long bones and soft tissue lining. Talk to your veterinarian for a referral!
Repeat x-rays if necessary to rule out hip dysplasia and other growth disorders.
It may also be helpful to choose a proper orthopedic dog bed. We recommend a Big Barker bed.
How to Slow Growth to Prevent Panosteitis in Puppies
Do not overfeed your puppy and let him/her become heavy and overweight.
Many people are concerned that their puppies are too thin or not eating enough. However, one of the worst things they can do is to start adding tasty treats, toppers, and fatty foods to the bowl!
Great Dane puppies benefit from receiving a well-formulated, simple diet with the correct balance of calcium, phosphorus, and energy. Adding enticements only messes up this balance, leading to growth disorders and more.
It is normal and desirable for Dane puppies to be lean and lanky during their explosive growth stages. Heavy, bulky puppies that are encouraged to grow quickly are more likely to suffer from growth disorders.
Never feed a multivitamin supplement, no matter how much your breeder wants you to believe it’s necessary. Remember, breeders are not nutritionists! Talk to a board-certified veterinary nutritionist if you want a science-backed answer.
Don’t be tempted to choose low-protein adult food as a means to slow growth; this outdated practice is not recommended.
Crate training is not cruel, and we believe that you should crate train your Great Dane puppy! Many dogs find their crate to be a safe place to relax! They make potty training easier and give your puppy an ‘off switch’ for those times when both you and your puppy really just need a break.
This article is all about how to crate train a puppy without crying. We’ve included information on what crates to buy and how to make sure that the process is stress-free and effective!
In this post you’ll find:
How to make the crate a safe space for your new puppy
How to keep your puppy from crying in the crate
Why crate training is important
The best crates for Great Danes
Why You Should Crate Train a Great Dane Puppy
When you crate train your Great Dane puppy, you also make things much easier on them should they ever visit a veterinarian (we certainly hope you’ll be seeing a vet!), the groomer, or have to be transported.
Crate trained dogs have a safe space to go that is all theirs. This is fantastic for times when you don’t want your puppy underfoot or getting around your guests!
It’s important to note that over use of dog crates can be hard on their growth and can lead to rear-end weakness and developmental problems. Puppies should never be crated longer than they can realistically be expected to hold their bladder (1 hour for every month of life is a good rule of thumb), and never longer than 8 hours in a day (especially if under 7-8 months of age and/or crated overnight).
If you are raising a puppy while working long hours away from home, it will be best to pay somebody to check on your puppy often. An x-pen is a good alternative to crating for very young Great Dane puppies.
It is best to start small when choosing a Great Dane sized crate. Your puppy needs to be able to comfortably stand up and turn around in the crate, however if the crate is too large it increases the likelihood that they will pee or poop in there.
Many crates come with dividers for this purpose. As your pup outgrows the divider, you remove it.
You can always shop marketplace or ask friends if you can borrow a crate for a short time, if you prefer to just use a small crate! Fair warning though, Great Dane puppies grow FAST and adult sized crates are huge.
By 6-9 months your puppy will be ready for the big-daddy of all crates; the Midwest Homes or Frisco 54″ giant breed crate. This crate is HUGE. You’ve been warned.
8-12 week old Great Dane puppies are exceptionally immature, need to pee a lot, and are learning rapidly about the world. Be patient, it will pay off!
The Best Dog Crate Setup for Puppies
At first the crate should be in a cozy location with no drafts or excess heat. It’s best if you can sleep next to the crate for at least the first few nights. It can always be moved to a different location once the puppy is sleeping well at night.
Provide the puppy with a proper orthopedic crate mat that has a nice sturdy cover and is washable. We recommend this one for the puppy crate then move up to a Big Barker bed when your puppy is older.
Sleep and puppies don’t mix. Kind of like sleep and human babies! Establishing a solid routine and sleeping through the night comes with bladder control and emotional maturity.
How to Introduce the Crate to your Great Dane Puppy
An ethical breeder will likely have already introduced your puppy to a crate!
Give your puppy a few high value treats. Scatter some on the floor around the crate and make this experience fun and positive. We love Dr. Harvey’s single ingredient treats.
When your puppy is engaged with you, toss a few treats inside of the crate and say ‘CRATE’. Then say ‘FREE’ and toss some treats outside of the crate.
Make a super fun game of going into the crate (CRATE) and out of the crate (FREE). Most puppies pick this game up very quickly and enjoy playing it.
Randomly leave treats inside of the crate for your puppy to find in there.
Feed Your Puppy in the Crate
From the very first meal, feed your puppy inside of the crate!
Yes your puppy will likely make a mess (hence our recommendation for an inexpensive, washable orthopedic bed to start) and that is ok.
Depending on how comfortable your pup seems with going into the crate, it’s very likely that you’ll be able to shut the door during a meal time. Be calm and return when your puppy is finished.
Give lots of praise, open the door and say ‘FREE!’ then toss some treats outside of the crate.
HINT: Every time you release your puppy from the crate, take her out to potty!
Have Your Puppy Nap in the Crate
Contrary to popular belief, you will NOT ruin your puppy if you allow snuggles at nap time. Enjoy this time! We also know that Great Dane puppies sleep a LOT and you cannot always let them lay on you.
When puppy is ready for a nap (they need much more sleep than you think! Do not let your puppy become overtired and inconsolable), make sure they have had a potty break, then toss treats into the crate and say ‘CRATE!’.
Before you shut the door, give the puppy something appropriate to chew on; you can smear a small amount of safe (no xylitol) peanut butter inside of a Kong and freeze it.
Cover the crate and let your puppy rest.
Some puppies will be calm and comfortable in the crate, others may begin to fuss.
Some fussing is ok, but we discourage the practice of allowing this to escalate to inconsolable and panicked crying, pawing and barking. That kind of behavior inside of a crate breeds anxiety and stress. This is incorrect and the puppy should not be practicing that state of mind.
Unwavering ‘cry it out’ methods can lead to puppies that escape their crate and suffer from separation anxiety in the future, so be thoughtful here.
Many times puppies are crying in their crates because they are scared, lonely, cold, or have to pee.
To avoid creating a behavior chain where puppy learns that crying is how you’ll let them out, reassure your puppy so they know you are there. Wait for calm behavior, then reward the calm behavior by opening the door. They will learn with a few repetitions that crying is not how they get out, but being calm is.
Be boring, take the puppy out to pee, then try again. Repetition and consistency is key here. As above, it’s ok to ignore easy fussing and whining. Do not however let it escalate to panic.
How to Make Crate Training Fun for Puppies
Keep the door to the crate open during the day.
Make sure to routinely hide a goodie in the crate for the puppy to find.
Play with the puppy near the crate and continue to practice the ‘CRATE/FREE’ game. However, now when you say CRATE you’ll close the door for a moment, then open it and say FREE.
Gradually add time to the CRATE part of the game so that your puppy learns and is practicing calm awake behavior in the crate. Work up to 30 seconds, a minute, then several minutes.
If you do this correctly, your puppy will very quickly learn how to be calm in the crate while awake through the consistent practice of doing exactly that. Before you know it you’ll be able to put your wound up and awake puppy inside of the crate.
Because they have been taught to associate the crate with calm behavior and not crying or stress, they will immediately settle and eventually fall asleep. This is the goal here.
How to Crate Train Your Puppy at Night
The first few nights you may need to sleep on the floor with your puppy. You can reassure your puppy with your hand.
Be patient! Multiple potty breaks are normal but will quickly become a thing of the past.
The more mature your puppy becomes, the longer they can hold their pee, and the more confident and secure they are in the crate the easier this will become! Done properly, crate training shouldn’t take long at all, and you’ll love having it as an option for your dog to ‘turn off’ when needed.
Crate Training Troubleshooting
MY PUPPY IS SCARED OF THE CRATE
If your puppy is terrified of the crate, consider using an x-pen temporarily while you work on crate skills. Keep a crate inside of the x-pen and hide treats inside of it.
Make sure the crate itself is not in a cold or drafty area, and make sure it’s not situated in a location where a buzzing sound or some other irritant may be present.
Many people have success with the addition of Adaptil plugins which mimic the pheromones put out by the nursing mother dog.
You can also try cozy soft blankets and the Snuggle Puppy, a warm stuffed toy with a heat pack and a heartbeat.
MY PUPPY PEES AND POOPS IN THE CRATE
This can be a common problem with puppies from puppy mills or breeders that didn’t keep the whelping place clean and teach puppies early potty skills, but it can happen to any puppy. By nature, puppies should NOT want to soil their crate.
If this is happening, it may be that the crate is too big. Make the crate smaller with a divider or by choosing a smaller crate.
This can also be a sign of distress. As above, practicing anxious behavior is not appropriate crate training. Back up several steps and focus on associating the crate with calm behavior.
Make sure to thoroughly clean bedding, and make sure that the puppy has had adequete opportunity to eliminate outdoors. It’s entirely possible that your puppy really just needed to pee or poop and had no other choice!
Diet changes, stress and too many rich training treats can muck up gut health and cause gastrointestinal problems.
The last thing to check is medical problems. Puppies that have a UTI, kidney problems, or issues with their gut health will struggle to keep their crate clean. Chat with your veterinarian.
I HAVE TO BE AWAY FROM HOME ALL DAY
Puppies really do require that a human is home to guide, teach, feed, play with, and let them out. If you must be gone this much, hire a dog walker to let your puppy out or consider letting your puppy hang out with a friend during the day.
There is no answer where we say ‘oh bummer. Just put the puppy in a crate for 8 hours, he’ll be fine‘. That’s never going to be an appropriate or easy solution for this. Older puppies can be left longer, but expect to need help until the puppy is at least 5 months of age.
I’VE TRIED ALL OF THIS AND MY PUPPY STILL CRIES
Your puppy could probably benefit from additional confidence building and time learning how to be independent. Timid puppies are especially prone to developing separation anxiety, so be patient here.
Reward mature, calm behavior by giving your puppy a high value chew (antler, bull stick, stuffed Kong) with supervision, but while you aren’t focused on the puppy.sf
Do several short basic obedience with positive reinforcement training sessions each day. 1-2 minutes at a time on early basics such as sit, down and leave it.
I’M FRUSTRATED! HOW CAN I STOP MY PUPPY FROM CRYING?
It’s likely your puppy IS going to cry or fuss at first while learning. Even I have been known to shout ‘HEY. Knock it OFF’ to a puppy that I know is totally fine in there and hoping I’ll let him out.
This does NOT mean put a bark collar on your puppy, hit your puppy, shake pennies, or spray water at it.
Those things are the fast track to teaching the puppy to associate the crate with being trapped and punished, and with that you greatly risk creating an agitated and confused dog that cannot be safely crated or left home alone. Great Danes are too prone to separation anxiety to take a chance like this on punitive training methods.
Be patient, be consistent, and think about what the end goal is.
If you are frustrated, remember the ‘don’t shake a baby‘ campaigns from the 90’s? (Talk about a throwback!). Anyways, WALK AWAY.
Ask a friend for help. Let your puppy out, go for a boring potty break and try again.
If you are still having trouble or have a particularly timid puppy, seek out the help of a highly qualified professional dog trainer. Let your breeder know that you are having trouble crate training as well!
If your puppy is from a rescue situation, additional time, confidence building, help with medical issues and patience may be needed.
Potty training Great Dane puppies comes with a BIG responsibility. A Great Dane puppy gets big fast, and a big puppy means big pee!
Great Dane puppies are the BEST! That is, until they drop a squat and let loose on your carpet.
Again.
and again.
If you are searching for tips on the potty training process for your Great Dane puppy, you may be struggling. So here you have it: the ULTIMATE guide to housebreaking your Great Dane puppy!
New puppies have very little bladder control, and no clue they need to pee until the pee is actually coming out.
The BIGGEST secret you need to know for potty training you Great Dane puppy is this nearly impossible task: don’t let your puppy make a mistake.
Consider this a fun game where the loser has to clean up poop: you want to avoid your puppy peeing or pooping in the house and practicing that behavior at all costs.
HOW TO HELP YOUR GREAT DANE PUPPY MAKE THE LEAST AMOUNT OF PEE ACCIDENTS POSSIBLE
You can manage this situation and lower the chance of a mistake happening by being diligent.
Here are some ideas:
Make sure your puppy is always being supervised. If you have to keep your puppy on a leash near you, that is ok! The puppy should not have much freedom until they demonstrate maturity. If your puppy walks off and is snooping around somewhere, QUICK! Take her out.
If your puppy cannot be supervised, they need to be ready for a nap and sent to spend time in a crate or x-pen. Dogs naturally don’t want to pee on their bed! Keep crate time no longer than the recommended age between potty breaks mentioned above.
POTTY TRAINING GREAT DANES USING PEE PADS
Skip the expensive and wasteful pee pads. Those literally teach a puppy that peeing indoors is ok, and make potty training take longer. No thanks!
Avoid accidents by skipping the potty pads and instead train your Great Dane to go to the bathroom in a designated area outside the house.
IN ORDER TO POTTY TRAIN GREAT DANES YOU NEED A TRAINING PROCESS
At first, you need to take your puppy out to pee every 20 minutes. Set a timer if you have to. These short spans between potty breaks will quickly grow longer as you learn how long your new puppy can ‘hold it’.
Get ahead of the curve and take your puppy out BEFORE they show signs that they need to pee! By then it’s probably too late.
POTTY TRAIN A GREAT DANE BY TAKING A POTTY BREAK OFTEN
It’s also helpful to automatically take the puppy out to pee after:
a nap
a meal
a play session
a training session
crate time
There are fun and silly ways to make this a good time for everybody. For example, pick a phrase somebody in the house tends to say a lot, or a common word such as ‘TV’ or ‘dog’. Every time they say it, they HAVE to take the puppy out to pee!
USING TREATS
Pet owners of baby Great Danes should begin using treats often to provide positive feedback and good behavior.
Fill your pocket up with treats. Go outside with your puppy. No being lazy here! Get out there, especially if it’s snowing or raining (your puppy will appreciate your confidence!).
Praise when they start to pee and then throw a treat party when they are finished.
Stay outside for a few minutes; chances are your new puppy has to pee again. This too is a quick phase and the puppy will quickly learn to fully empty his bladder. Until then, be patient.
Treat and praise some more.
USING POTTY BELLS
During potty training you can use bells to teach your dog to go to the bathroom outside from a young age.
Potty bells are an amazing tool. This inexpensive item from Amazon can be hung from a doorknob.
Every time you take your puppy out to pee, first ring the bell. Teach the puppy to touch the bell with a nose in exchange for a treat.
Then open the door and go out for the fun pee outside time.
The puppy will learn to use this as a signal to you that they want to go outside.
Gradually add time between required potty breaks. Continue to treat and praise.
Be consistent. One day, your puppy is literally going to go to the door, ring a bell and ask to be let out. Make a HUGE happy fuss about this and let your puppy out!
SHOP BELOW:
USING DOMINANCE
People used to advise puppy parents to take their puppy’s nose to their mess and rub their nose it whenever their pup or dog relieves himself in the house.
This kind of ‘training’ makes the trainer feel powerful and the dog feel powerless, which is a terrible reason for using it as a training method.
Shouting, scolding, correcting and scaring a puppy like this will not only erode trust, but may actually backfire on you when your dog is fully grown.
A puppy that has been taught to associate pee smell with punishment is a puppy who may hide pee behind furniture or in laundry. Ooops.
Puppies have NO idea that pee or poop is ‘gross’, and they have no clue why you’d want them to do that outside. Cut your puppy some slack here and instead train your Great Dane the desired behavior and other basic commands with positive training and patience.
CLEANING UP ACCIDENTS
It’s super important to thoroughly clean any accidents that do happen.
One way to make sure that the pee smell sticks around is to try and bury it with heavily scented carpet cleaners and ‘pet stain’ removers. Those rarely work well and don’t destroy the proteins.
First, clean out as MUCH of the mess as you can. If the area is extra bad, rent a carpet shampooer and rinse the area several times with hot water first.
Once you’ve removed most of the soil, apply a generous amount of Skout’s Honor and allow the flooring to air dry. Re-treat if needed.
It’s nearly impossible to potty train without some hiccups. Every dog is different! Some require MUCH more supervision and time than others. It may be helpful to temporarily put away expensive area rugs. Pro tip there!
TEACHING THE RIGHT PLACE FROM THE WRONG PLACE TO POTTY
This is actually the second piece of the potty training puzzle. A puppy needs to first learn to pee outdoors for reward. With consistency and praise, they also develop bladder control and learn what it feels like just before they have to pee.
Once they learn that they will begin to alert you. It’s not something you can teach, it comes with maturity, time, and finally understanding that all pee and poop needs to be outdoors.
We highly recommend using potty bells! This gives the dog a very clear way to say ‘let me out’. An independent dog is a happier dog, so learning where to go potty and having less accidents will help your pup feel better about their life.
MY PUPPY PEES A LOT. LIKE REALLY, A LOT
Young puppies dribble more than they pee and will usually have to pee multiple times each time they are taken outside. However, excessive peeing and not being able to hold it are signs of UTI.
Chat with your vet! UTI’s are surprisingly common and need to be treated.
Puppies also poop a lot. Sorry, that’s just a fact. They will regulate themselves more as their digestive system matures.
Potty training a Great Dane requires MANY potty breaks outside, and will likely have many accidents inside as well. Training a pup or dog with any skill requires patience and time.
CRATE TRAINING DURING POTTY TRAINING A DOG OR PUP
You can use crate training to minimize the dog from having an accident inside, help your dog feel safe and secure, and to speed up the house training process.
Crate training is an essential part of having a dog, and it can be used in helping raise a successful Great Dane puppy. If you are about to start potty training, you should invest in a large crate as well as an X PEN for play time and baby gates for safety and training for your new dog.
This can be common with puppies that were raised in a puppy mill or with a breeder that didn’t keep the whelping space clean.
Or, you just have a puppy that doesn’t really care! That can happen too, just as some humans don’t mind mess.
In general, dogs do NOT like to soil their bedding or near where they eat, so try the following to troubleshoot.
Make sure the crate is small enough. If the puppy has too much space, they will find room to pee. They should be confined enough that pee would get on the bedding, which they don’t want.
Make sure your puppy has had plenty of opportunity to pee before being put in the crate. It may really just be that your puppy had to go. Reference the rule about about appropriate time between potty breaks based on age.
IT’S RAINING AND SNOWING AND MY PUPPY WON’T GO OUT
It’s not uncommon for puppies to dislike cold and wet weather at first. Be positive and KEEP trying. Bundle up. Put puppy in a jacket. Hold an umbrella. Anything to show the puppy that potty training is NOT NEGOTIABLE.
Plan ahead if you are going to potty train a Great Dane puppy in an apartment. House training in ANY home requires that you get your dogs outside with ENOUGH time that they do not need to panic. Give yourself lots of time in those early days to walk all the way out of the house or apartment so that you avoid pee in the hallways or on you walk downstairs.
WORKING LONG SHIFTS
If you are away from home 8+ hours/day, a puppy may be a difficult choice to have made.
This is the time when it’s worth the expense to hire a dog walker to stop in often, or have your puppy stay with a friend who is home during the day.
Potty training your Great Dane will take much longer if you are away from the house all day and your dog is required to hold it all day long.
Most puppies will resort to peeing in their crate and ultimately will take an enormously longer time getting potty trained.
Some people may recommend that you limit water intake to make potty training easier. After all, a puppy won’t have to pee as much if they don’t drink so much! To that, we say YIKES.
Here are reasons you should NOT limit water when potty training.
The puppy may learn to hoard, gulp, or guard water in the future. Keep in mind that guarding and hoarding is a dangerous behavior, and gulping may contribute to bloat risk.
It’s bad for their kidneys and overall gut function and health to not have access to fresh water at all times.
Puppies need to be well hydrated to be able to concentrate and learn.
A dehydrated puppy is a constipated puppy, which will make housetraining that much more difficult.
A dehydrated puppy is a sick puppy.
Overall, just don’t do it.
LEASH TRAINING A NEW PET IN RELATION TO GETTING THEM POTTY TRAINED
Believe it or not, getting a Great Dane comfortable with their leash is important in regards to training a Great Dane the right and wrong spot to pee.
A good dog will know that they should pee outside and not inside. And, logically, in order to go outside and be successful, Great Danes need to be able to walk on a leash without being too scared, destructive, or anxious.
Here are some tips to get your Great Dane used to their leash:
Start off training your Great Dane with a short leash in your backyard. Let them get used to the feel of the leash around their neck and you walking behind them.
Use treats to get their attention and make sure they are walking by your side and not in front of you. Practice going on short walks around your neighborhood.Make sure to praise them and give them treats when they are doing a good job.
If they start to pull, ask your Great Dane to sit and wait.
Make sure that time spent on leash with your Great Dane is not play time.
Next, train your Great Dane to wait at the door. This is an important step in leash training and will make sure that your Great Dane doesn’t bolt out the door every time it opens.
Leash training any dog is not an overnight task. For more tips on how to train a Great Dane on leash, be sure to check out this blog: LEASH TRAINING
If you have a Great Dane, you know that they are unlike other dogs. They are fascinating dogs who steal everybody’s heart!
Great Danes are fascinating creatures, but like any other dogs, accidents happen and learning something new takes time and consistency.
Use a lot of positive reinforcement, love and time and watch as your dog gets better at the little things, right before your eyes!
Seriously. Potty training takes time, patience and consistency. There is NO easy way out, but the more consistent you are the faster your puppy will learn! Hang in there and have fun with your puppy!
Great Dane puppies are like little gremlins!!!! Even though Great Dane puppy biting is very normal, but can be very hard to handle. If you are ready to learn how to stop Great Dane puppy biting, you’ve come to the right place.
They bite, gnaw, growl, tug, grab your clothes, and dig their tiny little needle teeth into your arms and hands.
YOUCH!!! But your Great Dane puppy is so cute and snuggly too. It can be hard to understand how they can flip a switch and go from cute ball of fur to aggressive beast, but it’s actually nothing to be concerned about!
Many people worry that a biting Great Dane puppy may be trying to ‘be the boss’ or will turn out to be an aggressive dog, but neither of those things is actually true. Read on to learn why it is all apart of the puppy biting stage and how to stop biting in your Great Dane puppy.
Why Do Great Dane Puppies Bite?
Great Dane Puppies bite to learn how to control their jaws, to develop appropriate social skills, and because it’s hard to learn the difference between fingers and chew toys.
Watch a pile of Great Dane puppies play! Puppy bites is what they do to each other! One will wrestle and bite each other while the second one makes as many sounds as it can for a few minutes before the little guy bites back!
When the first Great Dane yelps, they back off for a minute.
The Great Dane puppy that bit learned that the bite was too hard, and both puppies just learned a valuable and important social interaction. These Great Dane puppies are acting as one another’s pet trainers!
Exposing puppies to this natural and proper training is a valuable part of their puppy biting development.
This is an important part of your Great Dane puppy’s development. When a Great Dane puppy isn’t given this time with their litter (until 8 weeks of age) they may have poor bite control.
When you bring your 8 week old Great Dane puppy home, they don’t WANT to stop biting. Like any breed, Great Danes thrive on play, training, toys, and attention. Positive reinforcement is very helpful when it comes to teaching safe alternatives to puppies biting.
Is My Great Dane Puppy Aggressive?
Great Dane puppy bites are completely harmless and come from a place of just wanting to find relief from their energy. It’s RARELY aggression and it’s never related to dominance.
Immaturity though? Yeah that’s a big culprit behind puppy biting!
At first, they don’t know or care about the difference between YOU and the other dogs from their litter. It is completely normal behavior to see a small puppy biting, gravitating to chew toys or having ‘puppy energy’.
All your Great Dane puppy knows is that biting is FUN. Chances are you are actually encouraging the behavior by mistake!
A common mistake many puppy owners make is to believe that their bitey, growly, crazy puppy is trying to dominate or “be the boss”. Nothing could be farther from the truth!
How to Stop Great Dane Puppy Biting
Here is our list of ways to minimize and STOP puppy biting.
You must be consistent and make sure everybody in the family does the same thing.
As always, be sure to speak with a highly qualified balanced dog trainer if you notice your Great Dane puppy act aggressively, bite people excessively, or if you cannot get your puppy to stop biting.
Start implementing these tips:
Remain calm
Be boring and encourage good behavior by demonstrating calmness yourself
When biting starts, cross your arms, turn your back and walk away
Use crates, gates and leashes to prevent the behavior and teach appropriate play
Know the signs: the ‘witching hour’ and being over-tired after long hours of play tends to make puppy biting worse!
Redirect calm puppies to an appropriate chew such as toys, a toy rope, a treat, or a game to play.
Practice training by keeping your Great Dane away from other dogs who might act aggressively
Likewise, encourage your Dane pup to engage with friendly dogs in a safe environment
Put your over-tired Great Dane in a crate with a frozen stuffed Kong toy or treat
Teach a settle/go to mat behavior in order that they practice the training method of remaining calm and to stop biting
Teach your Great Dane the primary skills: sit, down, touch, stand, leave it and wait
Bonus Tip: Teach the “Enough” Command
When your Great Dane puppy is playing with you, calmly say ‘ENOUGH’, then praise and offer a toy or treat.
Enough will quickly become a cue to use in training that implies you want your dane pup to ‘disengage’!
This will allow you to play with your Great Dane so they can practice putting teeth on you (which is good for their social and bite pressure development), AND gives your puppy a new skill that is very helpful when they are bigger.
Always remember that even though Great Danes are incredible dogs, they are still a massive size, even for ‘dane dog lovers’, so it is crucial to begin training at a young age.
While you are learning how to play with your Great Dane puppy, keep in mind that everything you do is either reinforcing (encouraging) or reducing (discouraging) certain behaviors. Think about what you want your Great Dane puppy to be like as an adult.
Common Puppy Biting Training Mistakes
Yelping DOES work to interrupt the behavior, and for most puppies it’s ok to do.
For some puppies, yelping can actually encourage biting! Yelping makes you sound like a squirrel or fun squeaky toy, which may make the puppy more wound up and interested in the biting game.
When a puppy in a litter yelps, they tell the other puppy ‘ouch, too hard‘. Not necessarily ‘STOP, don’t do that again!’. Keep that in mind. Yelping works, but don’t expect miracles or a quick stop to puppy biting.
NOTE:some puppies are frightened by yelping. If your puppy cowers, tucks tail, pin ears or runs away focus on building, no eroding confidence and trust. Sometimes the ‘yelp method’, ‘using loud noise’, ‘or the sharp cry method’ can actually create fear which can create the behavior of puppies biting harder.
#1 – Shoving, Tugging, and saying “NO”
This is a common, natural response to puppy biting!
When you shout, say ‘NO’, tug your clothes, try to run away, and shove the puppy off you actually REWARD the behavior by making puppy biting super fun. OOPS!
Dog’s LOVE to play and a dane pup can confuse you running away as a ‘biting people game’, which may make them want to bite more.
Be calm, boring, indifferent and REMOVE your attention from the dane pup. Walk away. Sigh. Stand still. Turn and walk the other direction. ANYTHING to show the pup that you lose all interest in them when they bite.
#2 – Alpha Rolls & Pinning
Some people will recommend that you pin your Great Dane to the ground until they calm down, and will say that doing so establishes ‘dominance’ with dogs.
We do NOT recommend this.
Alpha rolls are an aggressive form of training that can teach Great Danes (and all dogs) to fear you, fear your hands, and respond with increased aggression, frustration and confusion.
This could result in increased bites, unnecessarily rough play, and VERY frustrated Great Dane owners who are dealing with increased bites or aggressive, fearful and frustrating behavior in their adult dogs.
This outdated method is considered ‘woo’ by actual behaviorists and well-educated dog trainers.
At worst, it’s dangerous and at best, informed dog owners and most professionals are frustrated that people and even some ‘trainers’ continue to perpetuate this misguided concept.
A much safer and more fair alternative is to remain calm, walk away, and provide your Great Dane with a toy or treat.
#3 – Pinching, Tapping, Whacking, Kneeing, and Thumbing
Pinching the puppy, shoving a thumb down his throat, or whacking or tapping him on the nose is the fast track to making sure that your Great Dane is more likely to be resistant to teeth brushing, nail trims, veterinary care and coming when called.
Seriously, don’t do this. We cannot believe we have to say this. Great Danes are a sensitive breed and will have serious repercussions if handled with a human who demonstrates aggressive tendencies.
#4 – Spray Bottles
This method may work, and it’s a ‘quick fix’, but tread cautiously.
Dogs trained with spray bottles may become resistant to spray medication, baths/showers and even being outside in the rain. Plus, like many of the other methods above it teaches your dog to avoid you and run away, NOT engage with you.
If the only way your dog is controlled is if you keep spray bottles around the house as a threat, they aren’t fully trained.
As above, we believe there are better ways to work with your dog.
Good News About Puppy Biting
Puppies outgrow this behavior. Unless you’ve been accidentally rewarding it with a lot of shoving, running, tugging and attention most puppies stop doing it once they are more mature.
You do not have to live with this behavior until it goes away. As above, use crates, gates and leashes to prevent the behavior and separate yourself from a wound-up, biting puppy.
Prevent puppies from practicing this behavior, especially on children.
Spend lots of time teaching and rewarding appropriate behaviors such as touch, sit, down, leave it, and ‘go to your place’.
Warning Signs of Aggression in Great Danes
Some people are concerned that their puppy is actually aggressive because of how rough they bite and play. Playful puppies can bark, growl and be extremely noisy!
Most puppies are not actually aggressive.
Puppy biting is not a form of aggression. However, occasionally a puppy is wired wrong or has deep-seated fear aggression. Here are the warning signs that a puppy is aggressive, not playful.
Low growl
Stiff body, tense
Hackles up
Snapping or biting when a hand approaches their food, toy, or bone
Showing their teeth/grimace
Stiff tail wags or tucked tail
Ears pinned back
Turning the head away before biting
Not showing playful body language (bouncing, bows, loose body, loose tail, fun and cute play barks and play growls).
If you are unsure or are seeing signs that alarm you, seek out the help of a highly qualified trainer.
Puppy Biting & Ethical Breeders
Puppies from ethical, diligent quality breeders and robust well-tempered pedigrees are less likely to develop aggression, are easier to train and will be much more confident and mature when they come to your home!
Puppies that leave their litter prior to 8 or even 10 weeks of age tend to be much more difficult to train. This includes having problems with potty training, puppy biting, overall bite inhibition and confidence.
Do not let your breeder convince you that a puppy is ready to go prior to that point.
