Hello Danes

Category: Positive Training

  • The Great Picky Eater Dog Remedy

    The Great Picky Eater Dog Remedy

    Dealing with picky eating is a common challenge for dog owners. Many dogs have their own unique preferences and may turn their noses up at certain foods, making mealtime a frustrating experience. But, the Great Picky Eater Dog Remedy may not be what you think!

    While it’s essential to rule out underlying health issues with the guidance of a veterinarian, picky eating in dogs often stems from behavioral or environmental factors.

    In this article, we will explore various (free!) remedies and strategies to address picky eating habits in your canine companion, ensuring they receive the nutrition they need and enjoy their meals once again.

    Why do dogs get picky about food?

    Before we can understand how to fix picky eating in our pets, we have to understand why dogs are picky in the first place.

    Just like humans, dogs can develop discerning palates and preferences for certain higher value flavors and textures. That doesn’t mean they should be eating filet mignon every day anymore than we should be eating shrimp scampi, but many pet parents address this behavior by giving their dogs tasty treats and toppers (more on this common mistake below!).

    If a dog has been given table scraps or high-value treats frequently, they may hold out for these more enticing options instead of their regular kibble.

    Environmental factors, such as changes in routine, feeding location, or food type, can also contribute to pickiness. Changes in their rate of growth can affect their appetite, too.

    Additionally, some dogs may become picky eaters as a result of health issues, dental problems, or food allergies, which can make eating a less enjoyable experience.

    Causes of picky eating in dogs

    To keep this simple, I’m breaking down the causes of picky eating in dogs into three main categories:

    a. Learned Behavior. Examples of this include dogs who won’t eat unless you add broth, chicken, eggs, or other tasty treats to the bowl, or dogs that voraciously eat a new brand of kibble but lose interest after a few days.

    b. Health Problem. These dogs have underlying health issues that make them picky. Examples include dental problems, digestive upset, and obstructions.

    c. The Dog is Full. A lot of people overfeed their dogs, and don’t realize that the ‘pickness’ is actually a symptom of the fact that their dog simply doesn’t want, or need, more food. (Read HERE about pet obesity).

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    What are symptoms of picky eating in dogs?

    Dogs that are “picky eaters” will turn their nose up at their food bowl, at times choosing to not eat for several meals at a time.

    However, because there are often environmental (training) and physical (health) problems at play, it’s very important that dog owners not immediately jump to the conclusion that the dog is being “stubborn”.

    As a matter of fact, barring legitimate health concerns, nine times out of the ten the dog is playing a game. It’s not that they are picky, it’s that they’ve learned how to get YOU as the pet parent to flip out.

    Behavioral vs. Health Reasons for Picky Eating

    Before you can address picky eating, you have to figure out which dog you have.

    Ask yourself the following questions:

    • Has my dog finished a recent growth spurt? (May not need more food)
    • Is my puppy close to adult size? (Doesn’t need as much food as before)
    • Is my female dog about to go into heat (Hormones can influence appetite)
    • Has there been any stressful changes in our routine or home? (Stress can reduce food intake)
    • Is my dog comfortable in their eating environment?
    • Is the food and water bowl clean/sanitary?
    • Has my dog been seen by the veterinarian, and are they free of parasites?
    • Does my dog have diarrhea or other tummy upset?
    • Has my dog had a full dental in the last year? (Bad teeth are a common cause of picky eating)
    • Do I often respond to picky eating by adding toppers or changing food? (Common! We will dig into this below)

    To determine if a dog’s picky eating habits are driven by environmental or behavioral factors, it’s crucial to observe their feeding patterns and the context surrounding their meals.

    If a dog consistently eats well in certain circumstances but not in others, environmental factors might be at play. However, if the picky behavior persists in all situations and appears to be tied to their interactions with the owner or specific food preferences, behavioral factors may be more likely.

    Be honest with yourself: identifying the root cause is the first step in addressing picky eating and finding effective solutions.

    Why do some dogs not lick the bowl clean?

    We don’t actually want our dogs scrambling to eat with excitement and licking the bowl clean! As a matter of fact, this is the opposite of a desirable behavior around food.

    A lot of dogs are considered ‘picky’ when the truth is, they are simply mild-mannered and calm about their food. This is a good thing!

    We want our dogs bored with their meals because:

    • It reduces bloat risk (slow, stress free eating is healthier)
    • It reduces obesity risk (dogs should stop eating when they are full)

    Save the excitement for training treats, instead.

    7-18 month old picky puppies

    Puppyhood is a time of rapid growth and development, and around the age range of 7 to 18 months (depending on size), many puppies may exhibit picky eating habits.

    There are several factors that contribute to this phase of finicky eating, and the worst thing you can do at this point is to switch foods or start throwing tasty toppers into your dog’s food bowl.

    Changes in activity levels and metabolism as they mature can impact their appetite. As a general rule, fully grown dogs eat less per pound than puppies! At some point, your teenage pup just won’t need as much food. That’s not pickiness.

    Understanding that this is a phase in their development should help alleviate any concerns that you have.

    Providing patience, maintaining a consistent feeding schedule, and offering a high-quality, balanced diet are essential to help puppies through this picky eating phase and ensure they grow up healthy and strong. We recommend feeding dry diets that meet WSAVA guidelines.

    Picky eater dog remedy

    The Great Picky Eater Dog Remedy: Solving Pickiness in Dogs

    Assuming that your dog is “picky” for behavioral reasons and not health ones, this section is for you!

    Editors note: if you suspect ANY kind of health problem that may cause a dog to not eat, see your veterinarian! Our picky eater dog remedy is only for healthy dogs who are turning their nose up at food.

    Step 1: Stop giving in! This is the hardest habit for pet parents to break. Resist the urge to change foods or top your dog’s bowl with treats and goodies. Everytime you do this, your dog learns that if they don’t eat, you will reward them with novel foods and tasty bites!

    Step 2: Feed on a schedule. Offer food 2-3 times per day (your choice). Put the food down (remember, don’t make it fancy…balanced food only) and give your pup 10 minutes to eat. Set a timer and walk away! If your dog does not eat, come back and pick the bowl up. Do not offer food or treats until the next meal.

    Yes, this requires a little tough love.

    Step 3: Monitor intake using a kitchen scale. You may find that your dog simply doesn’t want as much food as you’ve been offering. Try cutting back a little bit and reducing your expectations for how much they need.

    If you stick to this process, it should only take a week before your dog stops playing a game waiting for you to offer new food or treats. Don’t give in!

    Troubleshooting: tips and tricks to encourage healthy eating habits

    What if my dog is bored of their food?

    The myth that dogs get bored with their food is a common misconception among pet owners. While it’s true that dogs, like humans, can enjoy variety in their diet, they don’t experience boredom with their food in the same way we might. This isn’t even something to be concerned about.

    Can I incorporate fresh or canned food for health reasons?

    Absolutely! A lot of people love to add canned and fresh foods to their dogs diet. Once you have followed the steps to reduce picky eating, you can begin to thoughtfully incorporate fresh and canned foods once again.

    All unbalanced foods must be less than 10% of the diet. Instead of mixing it with the kibble, try using your fresh foods as training treats or stuffed into a TOPPL toy for enrichment (see on Amazon). Never use toppers to bribe your dog to eat.

    What if my dog refuses to eat any meals?

    If a dog refuses to eat meals for more than 2 days in a row, there is very likely to be an health issue at play and you MUST see your veterinarian. On the other hand, if your dog skips a day (or even up to two days) of meals but is otherwise energetic (especially if they will take a small treat you offer them as a test), stick it out. Do not let your dog play you!

    It’s even ok if your picky eater nibbles at the food you offer, but doesn’t eat it all. A truly healthy dog that requires no veterinary care will NOT starve themselves to death. Follow the process.

    Picky eaters losing weight

    Rarely, a dog will present with picky eating and no apparent health issues that will skip meals to the point of losing weight.

    This is not a normal healthy behavior and does require a veterinary visit. Some dogs are ‘hard keepers’ and the veterinarian can provide diet recommendations that have an appropriate balance of nutrition for dogs like this.

    In particular, some breeds (usually working breeds such as farm dogs, poodles, and malinois) don’t eat much or at times don’t eat enough; this is largely related to genetics!

    Farm dogs (Pyrenees for example) were bred to not need a lot of food. Malinois are high energy ‘buzzing’ breeds with fast metabolisms that usually require a scientifically formulated sport diet. Poodles in general are not very food motivated, because they were bred to please without food.

    Even for dogs like this, people make the same mistakes that actually encourage bad eating habits. Most dogs will not let themselves die of starvation.

    Feeding for a Healthy Body Weight in Dogs

    The issue of pet obesity is a growing concern, with a significant number of dogs being overweight or obese. I bring this up because many “picky dogs” are actually overweight and do NOT need more food.

    In the United States, for instance, it’s estimated that more than half of all dogs are overweight. This alarming trend can lead to various health problems, including joint pain, diabetes, heart disease, and a decreased life expectancy.

    To combat this issue, responsible pet owners must take action. One key step is to consult with a veterinarian to determine your dog’s ideal weight and develop a suitable diet and exercise plan. This plan should include a balanced diet with appropriate portion control, regular physical activity, and minimizing high-calorie treats.

    Unsure if your dog is overweight or not? Check out the Purina Body Condition Scoring System.

  • How to Safely Socialize a Great Dane with Other Dogs: Science-Backed Techniques

    How to Safely Socialize a Great Dane with Other Dogs: Science-Backed Techniques

    If you’ve recently welcomed a Great Dane into your family, you may be wondering how to ensure they have positive interactions with other dogs. Socialization plays a crucial role in their development, and with the right techniques, you can help your Great Dane become a well-rounded and confident companion. There are many reasons to safely socialize a great dane with other dogs, and we’re going to dig into them!

    In this guide, we will explore science-backed strategies for socializing your Great Dane with other dogs, paving the way for harmonious and enjoyable canine interactions. You will find information here about socializing giant breed puppies and adult or rescue dogs, too!

    Socialize a great dane

    Why it’s important to socialize a Great Dane

    Socializing giant breed dogs of all ages is important as it helps them develop crucial social skills, builds their confidence, and promotes positive interactions with other dogs.

    Proper socialization can prevent behavioral issues and ensure that your Great Dane grows up to be a well-adjusted and friendly companion. In turn, this can make them easier to handle, live with, and enjoy!

    By exposing them correctly to a variety of dogs, environments, and experiences, you can help your Great Dane navigate social situations with ease.

    It’s important, however, to avoid common socialization pitfalls!

    Tips for Socializing a Great Dane Puppy

    Here are some of our favorite tips for socializing a Great Dane puppy around other dogs!

    – Use positive reinforcement & predictable dogs

    Start by choosing a calm and controlled environment, such as friend’s backyard and other friendly puppies or mature adult dogs. Avoid the dog park, as the risk of negative experiences is too high!

    Begin with short and controlled interactions, gradually increasing the duration as your puppy becomes more comfortable and confident.

    Always keep a close eye on their body language, ensuring they are relaxed and stress-free. Reward your Great Dane puppy with treats, praise, and affection for calm and friendly behavior towards other dogs.

    Use a clicker or a verbal cue to mark the desired actions, such as coming to you instead of being rude to anothe dog, and then promptly offer a reward. Consistency is key; reinforce positive interactions consistently to create positive associations with other dogs.

    As your puppy gains confidence and social skills, the process will become easier, leading to a well-adjusted and socialized Great Dane.

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    – Gradual exposure to other dogs

    Of course, not every dog you meet will be a friendly puppy or mature adult! It is incredibly important to expose your Great Dane to other dogs, but in doing so, encourage them to be indifferent.

    Teaching a puppy to ignore other dogs in their environment is an essential skill that promotes well-behaved and safe interactions.

    To achieve this, begin with early socialization, introducing your puppy to various dogs in controlled settings as mentioned above. Reinforce basic obedience commands, like “sit” and “stay,” to help your pup maintain focus. When walking or in the presence of other dogs, use treats and positive reinforcement to reward calm behavior and attention to you.

    If your puppy shows interest in other dogs, practice the “leave it” command, redirecting their attention. Consistent training and positive associations with ignoring other dogs will ultimately help your puppy develop the self-control necessary for well-mannered interactions in any environment. Be patient and persistent, as this training process takes time and practice.

    Never let your Great Dane lunge or pull towards people or other dogs; these are hard habits to break and unfortunately can set the foundation for future leash reactivity.

    – Enrolling in puppy socialization classes

    Enrolling in puppy socialization classes is a fantastic decision for both of you. While they may seem trivial and repetitive, they are exactly what most dogs need!

    These classes offer a structured and controlled environment for your puppy to interact with (or learn to ignore) other dogs and people, which is crucial for their well-rounded development.

    Beyond just helping your puppy get used to different social situations, these classes also provide a platform for them to learn essential obedience skills and commands. It’s an excellent opportunity for you as a pet owner to receive guidance from experienced trainers and gain valuable insights into understanding your puppy’s behavior and needs.

    Overall, enrolling in puppy socialization classes sets a strong foundation for a well-behaved and sociable dog. Don’t stop at the end of the 6 week puppy class! Work up to the Canine Good Citizen title.

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    Socializing Adult or Rescue Great Danes

    A common question that we receive is about socializing adult or rescue Great Danes.

    Adult or rescue dogs that weren’t adequately socialized as puppies can exhibit a range of challenging behaviors.

    They may struggle with fear or anxiety in unfamiliar situations or around new people and animals. Aggression, reactivity, or excessive shyness can also be issues, making it difficult for them to interact peacefully with others.

    These dogs might not understand basic social cues, leading to communication problems with other dogs and humans. They may have difficulty adapting to new environments, which can be stressful for both the dog and their owner.

    Patience, consistent training, and a supportive environment are crucial for helping these dogs overcome their socialization deficits and lead happier, more balanced lives.

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    – Understanding previous experiences

    A dog’s previous experiences play a pivotal role in shaping their ability to interact with the world.

    Positive early experiences, including proper socialization and exposure to various people, animals, and environments, often result in a well-adjusted and confident dog. Conversely, dogs that have endured traumatic or negative experiences, such as a lack of socialization, abuse or neglect, may develop fear, anxiety, or aggression issues that hinder their social interactions.

    These experiences can profoundly affect a dog’s trust in humans and their ability to navigate unfamiliar situations.

    – Building trust through positive interactions

    Building trust with undersocialized dogs may be a patient and delicate process that requires time, compassion, and understanding.

    These dogs often have had limited positive interactions with humans and the world, which can make them anxious and defensive. The key to earning their trust is to create a safe and predictable environment. Don’t use harsh or dominating training techniques, and stop yourself from considering some of their behaviors a symptom of ‘stubbornness’.

    Approach them calmly, use soft and reassuring tones, and avoid sudden movements. Offer treats, toys, and affection as rewards for any signs of progress, no matter how small. Consistency is vital; establish routines and boundaries to provide them with a sense of security.

    Gradual positive exposure to new experiences, people, and animals should be introduced at a pace that respects their comfort levels. Building trust with undersocialized dogs can be a lengthy process, but as they begin to associate your presence with positive experiences, their confidence will grow, and your bond will strengthen.

    Some dogs may never be fully confident, and that’s ok. Every effort you make will make a difference in their lives, though.

    – Introducing them to well-socialized dogs

    Introducing a fearful or unpredictable adult or rescue Great Dane to other dogs should be approached with caution and care to ensure the safety and comfort of all involved.

    Here’s a step-by-step guide:

    1. Choose the Right Environment: Select a quiet, controlled environment for the introduction, away from distractions and busy dog parks.
    2. Leash and Safety: Keep both your Great Dane and the other dog on leashes for added control. Ensure that the other dog is well-behaved and sociable. This is key! Never try to introduce two dogs that are fearful or reactive.
    3. Observe Body Language: Watch both dogs’ body language closely. Look for signs of fear or stress, such as raised hackles, trembling, or avoidance behaviors. If either dog appears too anxious or aggressive, it may be best to postpone the introduction.
    4. Gradual Approach: Begin by keeping a considerable distance between the two dogs and allow them to observe each other from a distance. Reward calm behavior with treats and praise.
    5. Parallel Walking: After some time, if both dogs seem calm and curious, start a parallel walk, walking the dogs side by side. Keep a safe distance between them to reduce direct interaction.
    6. Allow Interaction: If the dogs continue to remain calm, you can allow them to approach each other under close supervision. Keep the initial meeting brief and positive, then separate them while rewarding with treats and praise.
    7. Repeat and Extend: Gradually increase the duration of their interactions during subsequent meetings, always maintaining a positive and controlled atmosphere.
    8. Watch for Signs: Continue to monitor their interactions for any signs of fear, aggression, or stress. If any issues arise, separate the dogs immediately and reassess the situation.
    9. Professional Guidance: If your Great Dane’s fear or anxiety persists, consider seeking guidance from a professional dog trainer or behaviorist who specializes in socialization and fearful dogs.
    10. Patience and Consistency: Remember that building confidence and trust in a fearful dog takes time. Be patient and consistent in your efforts and always prioritize the well-being of your Great Dane and the other dogs involved.

    The key is to progress at your dog’s pace, ensure their comfort, and create positive associations with the presence of other dogs. Each dog is unique, and the timeline for successful socialization may vary.

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    The Science Behind Dog Socialization

    Modern positive dog socialization is rooted in a deep understanding of canine behavior and psychology, underpinned by scientific principles and even a little common sense.

    This approach to socialization recognizes that dogs, like humans, thrive on positive experiences and reinforcement. It takes into account the extensive research on animal behavior, emphasizing the importance of positive interactions and rewards to shape their responses to the world around them.

    The science behind modern positive dog training and ways to socialize a Great Dane aims to create a safe and enjoyable learning environment, helping dogs build confidence, develop essential social skills, and form strong bonds with their human companions.

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    – The critical socialization period

    The critical socialization for great dane puppies is a vital phase in their early development, typically occurring between the ages of 3 to 14 weeks. Of course, this is at the same time that many exciting or scary changes are happening, too!

    Veterinary visits, meeting their new family, learning about crates and eating out of bowls, and even going home are big changes that can be scary to a new puppy. Proper Great Dane care and attention to their health, well-being, and experiences can really make a difference.

    During this critical window, puppies are highly receptive to their environment, experiences, and social interactions. It is a time when they are most open to forming positive associations with people, other animals, and various situations.

    – Impact of positive experiences on behavior

    When puppies encounter a pleasurable experience, such as praise, treats, or play, their brains release chemicals like dopamine, which strengthen the neural pathways associated with that experience.

    This process, known as associative learning, forms the basis for future behavior. Positive experiences help puppies build confidence, trust in humans, and learn valuable skills.

    They also create lasting positive associations with various stimuli, making puppies more adaptable, resilient, and less likely to develop behavioral issues in the future.

    This scientific understanding underscores the importance of providing puppies with a nurturing, positive environment rich in diverse experiences to shape their behavior and ensure they grow into well-adjusted, happy adult dogs.

    Why Socialization Matters for Great Danes

    As much as we may love them, it can be difficult or even dangerous to navigate through life with a giant breed dog that is fearful, aggressive, or reactive. When we don’t throughly socialize a Great Dane puppy, we risk this becoming a reality.

    Socialization is of paramount importance for Great Danes due to their unique characteristics and potential size. Great Danes are one of the largest dog breeds, known for their gentle and friendly nature. However, their imposing size can be intimidating to others, especially if they don’t exemplify the breed standard (friendly & confident).

    Well-socialized Great Danes are more likely to be relaxed, well-behaved, and comfortable in various social situations, making them safer and more enjoyable companions for their families and those they encounter.

    – Preventing fear and aggression

    Preventing fear and aggression from developing in the first place is key.

    1. Positive Reinforcement: Utilize positive reinforcement techniques to reward desired behaviors with treats, praise, and affection. Focus on what the puppy is doing right, rather than punishing for mistakes.
    2. Gentle Leash Training: Discourage pulling and avoid situations where they puppy may be putting pressure on their throat, which can ultimately lead to fear and aggression. Practice loose leash walking, rewarding the puppy for walking calmly by your side.
    3. Desensitization: Gradually expose your puppy to various environments, people, and other animals while maintaining a safe and controlled distance. Reward them for calm and non-reactive behavior.
    4. Socialization: Begin socializing your puppy early, but ensure that the interactions are positive and stress-free. Choose well-behaved and friendly dogs for socialization, and monitor the encounters closely.
    5. Consistency: Maintain a consistent routine and use clear, non-confrontational commands to teach your puppy. Consistency helps the puppy understand what is expected of them.
    6. Avoid Punishment: Refrain from punitive and outdated training methods that create fear or anxiety. Punishment-based (“Alpha”) training can lead to aggression and defensive behavior.
    7. Professional Guidance: Consider consulting a professional dog trainer or behaviorist who specializes in positive reinforcement methods if you encounter challenging behavioral issues. They can provide personalized guidance and support.
    8. Patience: Understand that training takes time and patience. Some puppies are genetically prone towards fear and aggression, which really speaks to the importance of choosing a good Great Dane breeder. Each puppy is unique, and their progress may vary. Be patient and always prioritize their emotional well-being.
  • Great Dane Sized Life Jackets

    Great Dane Sized Life Jackets

    Are you ready to get on the water with your Great Dane? Finding Great Dane sized life jackets is tricky, so we did the work for you. We’re ranking and rating our favorites so that you and your giant dog can play at the lake or in the ocean all summer long!

    In addition to sharing our favorite Great Dane sized life jackets, I’m going to cover:

    • When and why Great Danes should wear a life jacket
    • How to make sure the life jacket you choose for your Great Dane actually fits properly
    • The best places to play in the water with your Great Dane
    • How to avoid toxic and dangerous summer water (blue-green algae, ick!)

    Before using any life jacket, we recommend calling the manufacturer before use; even if the chest circumference is ok, some dogs greatly exceed the weight limit. It’s important that owners are aware of the danger that can pose.

    Believe it or not, many Great Danes actually love the water, and some even swim! Others enjoy boating and paddle boards, too.

    Author’s note: it is important to monitor your dogs activity in and around water. Your dogs safety rests in your hands whether they have a lifejacket on or not.

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    The Best Lifejackets for Great Danes

    A good lifejacket for your dog should be:

    • Affordable
    • Well-made
    • Adjustable
    • GIANT!

    Dog life jackets come in a range of sizes and are most widely available for medium-average sized dogs. They also come in a range of different qualities.

    Every lifejacket offers different floatation ability, too. Some life jackets are better suited to dogs that are strong, athletic swimmers.

    Less expensive options are perfect for Great Dane owners who won’t be using the jacket often, as the lower quality fabrics and stitching may reduce the useful lifespan of the product.

    It’s important to note as well that cheaper lifejackets also won’t have as nice of a fit; in general they tend to be fairly boxy and utilitarian vs. athletic and comfortable to wear. For very active and athletic dogs who will be in the water or boating often, we recommend spending a little bit more.

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    Why the Color of your Dog’s Lifejacket Matters

    Make sure to choose BRIGHT colors! Remember that blue and green tones can get lost in the water, so if your dog is struggling or runs off, it’s less likely you’ll be able to see them.

    We recommend choosing bright or neon colors such as orange, pink, lime, coral, and yellow.

    Camo colors are best suited for highly trained retriever type hunting dogs, and shouldn’t be used as a fashion statement. Because camouflage is designed to make it harder (not easier) to find and see your dog, it’s not a very practical or safe choice for your average pet Dane.

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    Best Inexpensive Option: Yoyaker Dog Life Jacket

    The Yoyaker Dog Life Jacket is a good option for Dane owners who aren’t in the water often. It is unlikely to hold up well to repeated use, but for a day in the sun? Start here! We don’t recommend a cheap life jacket like this for active dogs that will be in the water often.

    This affordable choice comes in a range of colors and is one of the larger options we found! It is adjustable up to 48.5″ around the chest. (For perspective, my average sized intact male Great Dane has a chest circumference of 38″).

    This is not a lifejacket with a very athletic fit, so on hot days it will be even more important to monitor your dogs body temperature and comfort.

    Purchase the Yoyaker Great Dane life jacket HERE.

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    Best Athletic Life Jackets for Great Danes

    An athletic style life jacket will be more suitable for dogs who are in the water often! These are good for all but especially great for Danes who are already fairly confident in and around water. Most athletic life jackets come with added features such as better fit, neoprene, sturdy buckles, and breathable mesh panels.

    Outward Hound Standley Sport Life Jacket
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    The Outward Hound Standley is a solid athletic life jacket for your Great Dane. It offers quality fabrics, bright lime green color, a mesh tummy panel, a leash attachment point, and a double handle system for lifting (if needed). The XL size fits up to a 44″ chest.

    This was designed to drain water quickly away from your dogs fur under the jacket, which can help keep your pup comfortable! You can find the Outward Hound Standley Sport Jacket on Chewy HERE or on Amazon HERE.

    EZY Dog Doggy Flotation Life Vest
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    This premium sport jacket is built for athletic dogs who don’t like having a lot of material around their tummies. It was engineered to provide above-average floatation and is a popular lifejacket for people who own large breed dogs! The XL size fits Great Danes with up to a 48″ chest circumference.

    It comes in red or yellow and offers a leash attachment point, neoprene straps, heavy-duty stitching, and solid quick-release buckles. You can purchase the EZY Dog Doggy Flotation Life Vest on Chewy HERE, or on Amazon HERE.

    Kurgo Surf N’ Turf Life Jacket
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    The Kurgo Surg N’ Turk Life Jacket was designed for all-day wear (in particular, dogs that boat!). If you like to take your Great Dane fishing, this lifejacket is for you. It’s also one of the most stylish options!

    Solid construction, quality fabrics, reflective piping, a leash attachment point, and neoprene are just some of the features of this popular life jacket. The XL can be adjusted to fit up to a 45″ chest.

    You can buy a Kurgo Surf and Turf on Chewy HERE or on Amazon HERE.

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    Best Pet Store Life Jacket for Great Danes

    Of course, it’s really nice if we can get a lifejacket for our dogs locally and make sure it fits before purchase. Some pet stores carry lifejackets (typically, it’s seasonal) and you can go in with your dog to test it out.

    For that, we highly recommend visiting Petsmart and checkout out the Outward Hound Dawson swim jacket. This version brings athletics to good floatation and comfort and can be adjusted to fit up to a 44″ chest.

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    If you cannot find it in your local Petsmart store, you can find it on Chewy HERE or on Amazon HERE.

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    Best Overall Life Jacket for Great Danes

    There is one top choice that is wildly popular among dog owners and organizations that support water sports and boating.

    The Ruffwear Float Coat is one of the most well-designed and highly rated floatation devices for dogs!

    Unlike other life jackets, the buckles are mostly hidden. This greatly reduces the risk that your dog become caught on something while in the water. The Ruffwear Float Coat is well-made, comes in beautiful colors, and will fit a dog with a chest circumference of up to 42″.

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    You can purchase a Ruffwear Float Coat for your Great Dane on Amazon HERE.

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    How to Make Sure a LifeJacket Fits a Dog

    Once you’ve found a life jacket for your dog that you love, it’s important to make sure that the fit is correct.

    If you are at the tail end of the straps and the jacket is snug, find a bigger jacket.

    If you cinch the straps all the way down and the jacket is loose, go down a size.

    An ill-fitting life jack is dangerous; it is important that the jacket fits nicely on your dogs body, is comfortable for them to wear, and doesn’t ride up if they are floating in the water. Go for a snug but comfortable fit (don’t cut off circulation, please).

    We recommend checking buckles and fit often, and adjusting as needed throughout the day. At no point should the jacket be so loose that it wiggles around as the dog moves; this can cause rubbing or chafing and will not support your dog in the water, either.

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    Do Great Danes Like Water?

    Yes!

    Many Great Danes actually love the water, choosing to splash, splay, and even swim in it.

    In general, positive exposure to water in puppyhood goes a long ways towards building confidence in lakes and oceans. Something as simple as a small kiddle pool in your backyard can be used to help your puppy develop an early love for having their paws and fur wet!

    Great Dane sized Kiddie Pool, see it on Amazon HERE

    (If you put a small pool in your backyard, please supervise your dogs and kids!)

    You might enjoy this paddleboarding Great Dane on Tik Tok, or watch Great Danes participate in the fun and exciting sport of dock diving!

    How to Keep Your Great Dane Safe in the Water

    Spending the day at the lake or the ocean should be fun and safe, not stressful and dangerous!

    If your dog is new to swimming, stay by their side and be encouraging!

    For pet owners who want to take their Great Dane paddle boarding or on a boat, a little advanced preparation is recommended!

    Please check the weight limits if your paddleboard, boat, or kayak before loading yourself, your Dane, and all your gear on board.

    • Introduce the watercraft early! Ideally, your dog will have interacted with these things as a puppy. If not, that’s ok, it’s never too late!
    • For dogs of all ages, you can put your personal watercraft (paddle board, etc.) on the lawn and play games getting on and off. Make this a positive experience and then repeat it again on the shore before going on the water.
    • For large boats, the same thing applies! Introduce getting on and off, and make it a positive experience.
    • Once you are on the water, make sure your dog is in their life jacket and ideally off-leash with a modern sport e-collar (long lines can be dangerous in this situation, but check your local leash laws as well, and NEVER let a dog off leash that doesn’t have perfect recall)
    • Take it easy and have fun! If your dog is shaking, panting, drooling, or panicking, it’s not a safe activity.

    Paddle boarding with a dog or spending the day on the lake in a boat is a fun activity, but do not do it if your dog really doesn’t like it!

    I participate in water sports with my dogs and it makes me so sad to see how many dogs on the water are flat out terrified to be there. Many dog owners seem oblivious to it, unfortunately. Cue into your dogs body language; it’s ok to encourage them to face their fears a little bit, but if they are tense or freaking out? It’s time for a change in plans.

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    Water Ingestion & Inhalation in Dogs Swimming

    Another danger to watch out for in the water is excess consumption or inhalation of water, dirt, and mud.

    Not only can your dog pick up parasites this way, but they are at risk of a belly ache or worse, getting water in their lungs.

    Inhaling water is dangerous to your dog and it can result from gulping, guzzling, or struggling in the water in some way. If your dog has any kind of near drowning event, we recommend seeing a veterinarian ASAP.

    Near drowning can happen to even the strongest of swimmers! In the ocean, the current can easily sweep them away. Some dogs don’t realize their limit and end up to far out in the water but become too tired to swim back.

    Just like humans, a dog that is struggling in the water may appear to be ‘climbing a ladder’. A dog in this situation needs immediate rescue and help, even if they are wearing a lifejacket!

    Monitor your dogs activity in and around the water, and make sure they are not gulping, guzzling, or inhaling too much.

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    Blue-Green Algae: Dangerous Water

    During warm summer months, blue green algae blooms on stagnant lakes and ponds.

    Blue-green algae is extremely toxic and kills many dogs each year after they spend an afternoon swimming.

    Symptoms of blue-green algae exposure in dogs include:

    • Panting
    • Drooling
    • Vomiting
    • Diarrhea
    • Seizures
    • Respiratory Distress
    • Acting disoriented or wobbly

    These symptoms or any known exposure to toxic algae in the water require immediate veterinary care. Left untreated, many dogs experience liver failure and death quickly.

    The unfortunate thing about blue-green algae is that at times, it may not be visible. Spores from a nearby (visible) bloom can travel into clean waters. Thankfully, the worst waters typically have active and visible blue-green blooms that warn you to stay away.

    It is very important when taking your dog swimming during the summer that you only engage in known safe waters and waters that are regularly tested for algae by your local wildlife and conservation officials. Never swim or engage in water activities where you see an active bloom nearby, and monitor reports from your States park systems and other dog owners.

    Here is an exceptional article on how to spot toxic blooms. It shows photos so you can see the difference between a very typical non-toxic green algae and plants, and the dangerous blue-green film and signs of dangerous water (including smells) to watch for.

    Not only is blue-green algae a danger, but there are all kinds of parasites that want to feed off your pet. They are easily picked up in wooded natural areas and near water, so learn how to protect your pet from parasites HERE.

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    Off-Leash Training for Great Danes

    I mentioned this above, but it’s important to remember that long lines can be dangerous for dogs while they are swimming or trying to play and run freely.

    However, being off-leash is dangerous (and in some places illegal) if your dog is not both well trained AND has a backup device such as a modern e-collar.

    Any Great Dane that is out in public near other people or dogs needs to be well trained, especially if they are to be off-leash.

    We recommend e-collar training, which is a modern, gentle way to replace the long leash and give your dog more freedom.

    Proper e-collar training starts with a lot of positive reinforcement and requires that you purchase a quality electric dog collar, not a cheap shock collar from Amazon. Shock collars are not appropriate for Great Danes and are considered inhumane.

    E-Collars don’t use shock, they use muscle stimulation (a tactile sensation like touch) which, with training, your dog learns to associate with certain behaviors. This allows you to communicate from afar and keep your dog safe in the water, too.

    Interested in learning more about modern positive off-leash training? Our popular E-Collar guide is 80 pages with illustrations for $19.99, and will get you started.

  • A Great Dane Bit Somebody

    A Great Dane Bit Somebody

    Big dogs are in the news again. This week a blue Great Dane bit somebody at a Home Depot, causing severe damage.

    The shopper had been told that the Dane was “in training”, and was instructed to offer a treat when the dog sat.

    People who saw the incident cited that the dog appeared to be in control and took the treat gently, but then suddenly lunged at the victims face.

    The victim was subjected to a severe bite that required immediate medical care and surgery.

    While the injured shopper was receiving attention for the bite, the owners, dog trainer, and Great Dane fled the scene.

    It was this photo, published on multiple media channels, which helped tip authorities off to the identity of dog owners. You can clearly see the blue Great Dane, led by one of the two owners involved in the incident, and the dog trainer in this image. The other owner is not shown.

    A Great Dane Bit Somebody, and we have a lot to talk about…

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    How Severe is the Great Dane Home Depot Bite?

    According to the Dunbar dog bite scale, based on information that we currently have, this would be considered a level 4 or level 5 bite.

    For perspective, a level 2 is when the teeth make contact but do not break skin (a nip, for example), while a level 5 indicates multiple bites with deep wounds.

    It is reported that the victim did require surgery. We can reasonably conclude here that not only did the teeth make contact, they were used to cause a significant amount of damage.

    Make no mistake. A bite this serious doesn’t happen in stable dogs with no history of aggression or fear.

    It is very likely that the owners and the trainer were aware of the fact that this dog wasn’t entirely stable.

    This may have prompted the training session in the first place, however, was this situation correctly handled? Let’s dig in.

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    Great Dane Owner Charged with Misdemeanor for Dog Bite

    The other owner of this dog is not seen in the images, however, because he is the one who held the leash, he is the one being charged with a misdemeanor.

    While logically this makes sense, there is a larger ethical issue here in that other involved parties may have played a role in the bite having happened in the first place.

    For a dog with instability, aggression, or fear, visiting Home Depot was a grave and preventable mistake.

    He/she was not wearing a muzzle or appropriate and safe training gear for a giant breed dog (more on this below), even while being supervised by a supposed dog trainer.

    Asking strangers to give a dog treats as a training or counter-conditioning method can actually be dangerous, and often backfires, too.

    While witnesses saw the dog sit and gently take a treat before lunging, educated dog owners and behaviorists know all to well that doesn’t necessarily mean the dog was friendly, approachable, or safe.

    As a matter of fact, the stress of having to choose between ignoring a treat (fear of the stranger) and taking a treat from a stranger (wanting the treat despite the fear) may have been the trigger.

    This doesn’t even begin to address the fact that dogs who damage skin do so with intent; it’s not an accident and as I’ve mentioned previously, it’s VERY likely that this dog had documented issues with training, aggression, and fear.

    The fact remains, however, that the owners fled the scene and did not provide contact information or support for the injured shopper. The owners and the trainer did not handle this correctly.

    AUTHOR NOTE: We do not know the full story, have never met this dog, and do not know who the trainer is. This blog post is based on available information, and I will not be placing blame on any one person.

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    Breeding Aggressive Great Danes that Bite

    Instability of temperament and poor bite control are signs of issues that likely began with the breeder.

    Too many Great Dane breeders are pairing dogs together with very little regard for health and temperament; these things are largely genetic.

    In other words, it’s not “all in how you raise them”.

    Some dogs are just flat out unstable. No well-bred, well-tempered Great Dane is going to cause this kind of damage unless provoked beyond reason. This dog clearly was not provoked, and that’s the problem.

    The breed standard states that Great Danes should be “friendly and courageous”.

    Great Danes are facing an epidemic of aggression and fear, perpetuated largely by unethical profit-driven breeders.

    Note that dangerous behavior in Great Danes is not normal and not acceptable. This Great Dane was failed by humans in some way, and will pay the price for it.

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    Great Dane Aggression Chart

    Assuming that the owners and the dog trainer in question were aware of the fact that this dog was willing to bite or nip, mistakes were unfortunately made. My heart hurts for the owners in this situation, because, those mistakes are often the result of bad advice.

    If this dog had always loved greeting people and never once bared teeth, growled or nipped and never showed fear towards humans, perhaps there was a medical issue or serious problem with this dogs temperament.

    But given the severity of the bite, it would be highly unusual that no signs of severe or impending aggression had previously been given.

    Dogs give us early warnings. They are often subtle and easily missed, or worse, punished away.

    Many times owners are coached to harshly correct the dog in some way for low growls and bared teeth. If a dog owner took this advice and nailed a dog to the wall for growling, that can actually result in the dog later skipping the warning growl and going straight to causing damage.

    Incorrect handling of fear and aggression causes more fear and aggression, unfortunately.

    This particular dog was asked to sit, too. In being obedient and sitting, the ability to show some calming signals such as walking away, turning to the side, or exposing the tummy were removed.

    (image courtesy of the BSAVA Manual of Canine and Feline Behavioral Medicine)

    image courtesy of the BSAVA Manual of Canine and Feline Behavioral Medicine

    How to Handle an Aggressive Great Dane

    As above, we are assuming that this dog was known to be unstable in some way.

    As an active member of the online Great Dane community, it consistently shocks me how many people believe that it’s appropriate to socialize unstable giant breed dogs by asking strangers to give them obedience commands and treats.

    This should, IMO, never be taken lightly as a common behavior modification exercise, especially if the person handling the dog doesn’t have complete and full control. It’s not always the best choice, in other words.

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    Handling an aggressive Great Dane requires three things:

    a. Management (avoiding scenarios that trigger certain body language or outbursts)

    b. A good understanding of behavior, counter-conditioning, and effective training techniques. Owners with aggressive or unstable dogs should be working with a dog trainer (see below).

    c. Appropriate tools (which for giant breed dogs include a properly fit muzzle and some kind of collar that is escape-proof and allows for control of the dog no matter if they lunge or try to run. I prefer thick fabric martingale collars (slip on only, not a quick release type which can break) or for some dogs, a properly fit Herm Sprenger Prong collar with a safety clip).

    A nylon head collar cannot safely be worn with a muzzle, which is a good reason to avoid that tool and choose a properly used prong collar or martingale instead. This is especially true for dogs that are known to be a bite risk or that lunge and try to escape.

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    How to Choose a Dog Trainer for a Great Dane

    We don’t know anything about the trainer who was working with the owners of the Great Dane that bit somebody.

    However, I would like to point out the fact that while Home Depot is a popular place for people to work with their dogs in a training capacity, many stores don’t actually condone this. Situations like this one put stores at risk, and are likely to result in managers no longer allowing dogs in the store.

    There is also a business ethics dilemma associated with a dog trainer utilizing private property (which Home Depot is) for their for-profit business; especially when their choice to do so has resulted in a shopper being damaged for life.

    I can’t really talk, as I’ve attended Home Depot with a dog trainer on more than one occasion, but this incident does bring up some valid discussion points.

    To that end, we recommend finding dog trainers who:

    • Carry full liability insurance
    • Have an outstanding reputation in the community
    • Can administer Canine Good Citizen and Trick Dog testing
    • Use positive reinforcement
    • Know how to properly condition a dog to a prong collar or E-Collar in a positive way if needed or desired as an alternative to head collars and harnesses
    • Believe in muzzles
    • Has at least some comprehensive education in behavior management, counter-conditioning and desensitization

    I recommend search the IACP database for qualified trainers. You can search your area HERE.

    If your dog bites somebody or injures another dog, do NOT leave the scene. It is important that you provide contact information and be prepared to pay for damages. You will also be required to prove that your dog is vaccinated against rabies.

    It’s best to avoid this tragic scenario in the first place, of course! Keep your dogs safe; giant breed dogs are a bigger liability no matter how you spin it. They should be loving, friendly, gentle giants but that isn’t always the case. Seek professional help and manage the environment to protect your dog and others.

  • My Great Dane is Aggressive On Leash

    My Great Dane is Aggressive On Leash

    Ah yes. Leash reactivity. If your Great Dane is aggressive on leash, but not necessarily off-leash, this post is for you. Of course, some dogs are are reactive both on and off leash, and this post will have valuable information for them, too!

    Leash aggression is a really frustrating and dangerous problem, especially when it comes to giant breed dogs.

    There is nothing worse than trying to take a peaceful walk when your 140 pound dog makes an absolute fool of himself over another dog or person walking by.

    It’s embarrassing, it causes a lot of anxiety, and the list of scenarios where something goes horribly wrong are pretty insane to think about.

    I don’t know about you, but I have no tolerance for Great Danes being aggressive on a leash. So let’s dig into this.

    Great Dane is aggressive on leash

    What Causes Leash Reactivity

    To better understand how to treat this behavior, we have to look at why it happens in the first place.

    Dogs communicate with other dogs through subtle body language. When stable, well-socialized dogs approach each other, they do so in a non-threatening way by turning their body slightly to the side and keeping their ears, mouth, and tail relaxed and neutral.

    Both dogs watch each other for signs that they are uncomfortable or excited, and the communication between the two dogs continues until one or both make a decision to proceed or walk away.

    Off-leash dogs are able to both express natural non-threatening body language, AND escape and retreat from dogs that show signs of discomfort.

    When a dog cannot escape, or is unable to move forward towards something that they find interesting, scary, or fun, tension from the leash is transferred into the dog via the connection point (collar, harness, etc.).

    As you can imagine, this tension is very, very frustrating.

    Leash reactivity and its root cause are incredibly simple. To put this bluntly, a leash reactive dog is frustrated.

    Making matters worse, the repetition of this cycle of excitement or nervousness paired with the restrictive leash teaches the dog to anticipate tension when seeing another dog (or whatever it is that they tend to react to).

    The anticipation of this tension in and of itself causes many dogs to start bubbling up with negative or frustrated feelings even before the leash becomes tense. It is at this point when owners lose control.

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    What Does Leash Reactivity Look Like?

    Many people think that leash reactivity only means aggression. Of course, dogs that snarl, snap, and lunge on a leash are being aggressive.

    However, for some dogs, leash reactivity presents as nervousness or excitement!

    Some dogs will shut down, pin their ears, lean, and may even spin circles or pull forward trying to protect themselves or leave the situation. These dogs may be perfectly confident off-leash, but being on leash makes them nervous and anxious.

    Other dogs will jump, whine, wiggle, lunge, and basically flip out trying to get out of their collar so they can greet another dog. This too is a form of leash reactivity, even if it’s not aggressive or protective in nature.

    Either way, these behaviors are dangerous. It is very difficult to control a giant breed dog that is nervous, anxious, or frustrated on leash.

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    How to Prevent a Dog From Becoming Leash Reactive

    If you already have a leash reactive dog, this ship has probably sailed but this section will help you better understand how to work towards prevention in the future.

    Here are common reasons why dogs become leash-reactive as they mature:

    • The dog has been allowed to pull, especially early on
    • As a puppy the dog was allowed or even encouraged to approach all people and dogs for “socialization” purposes, even if they were lunging at the end of a leash to do so
    • The dog has spent more time approaching dogs and people off-leash at will than they did learning how to politely ignore dogs while on a leash
    • Poor leash handling/handler skills, including a lack of confidence and direction
    • Incorrect use of training tools including harnesses, collars, electric collars and prong collars
    • Lack of correct socialization (learn more about this in our guide HERE)
    • The dog has an unstable or insecure temperament
    • Excessive force and tension on the leash, coming from the handler, including harsh corrections
    • Boredom (when taking a walk is the most exciting part of the day, dogs will often seek excitement during the walk)
    • Coddling a dog during a reaction or while they are anxious or fearful
    • Rewarding the dog for reacting by removing the thing they are reacting to, or by allowing them access to it (instead of teaching them to ignore it in the first place)

    Some dogs with incredibly stable temperaments can be poorly socialized and never trained and they will be amazing on leash no matter what.

    For many dogs, however, leash reactivity is the result of multiple compounding problems. Remember, it’s rooted in the restrictive and frustrating nature of being on a leash.

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    How to Stop Leash Reactivity in Great Danes

    If you have a leash-reactive Great Dane, it stops here. Now. Today.

    Before you can address leash reactivity, you must prevent it from occurring in the first place. Keep in mind that every time your dog practices the behavior, it is further reinforced.

    Take away the foundation.

    This may mean only walking when no other people are likely to be out, driving somewhere quieter, or finding other forms of enrichment such as a backyard scent work kit or FitPaws-inspired obstacle course.

    This is temporary! In no way should you remove your dog’s access to the world entirely; isolation as a form of training is not a good answer. But for now, you should focus heavily on managing and preventing the behavior.

    Note: If your Great Dane is aggressive on leash and seeks to harm, extra steps must be taken to protect other people and dogs. We highly recommend working with a trainer. Depending on the nature of the aggression, muzzle training may also be warranted.

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    Step One – Keep Your Reactive Dog Safe & In Control

    In addition to the above considerations, ALL leash reactive dogs must be on secure equipment. Avoid tools that break, are easy to escape from, or that make it difficult to physically control the dog during an outburst. Even if you visit somewhere that the reaction is unlikely to happen, it’s important to keep your dog safe.

    Tools that are NOT appropriate for leash-reactive dogs include:

    • Flat buckle collars, especially the type with a plastic latch
    • Chain/choke collars (harsh correction that tends to escalate reactivity in the wrong hands)
    • Front clip “T” shaped harnesses such as 2-Hounds Freedom or Easy Walk no-pull (adds tension to the shoulders, restricts movement, and are very easy to escape from)
    • Any harness or collar the dog can slip out of
    • Retractable leashes (very dangerous!)
    • Head collars/gentle leaders (for dogs that lunge or pull, these can cause a lot of damage)
    • Cheap shock collars used to harshly correct outbursts (or any electric collar that is used incorrectly)
    • Any kind of leash with a cheap/wimpy clip and/or that is difficult for the handler to hold onto

    Instead, I highly recommend the use of the following tools for dogs that are aggressive or reactive on leash:

    The above tools make it easier to control your dog and won’t allow them to easily pull out of their equipment and escape or act on their frustrations.

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    Step Two – Teach the Correct Alternative Behavior

    Before you can really address leash reactivity, your dog needs a clear picture of what they should be doing instead. If your dog already has great leash skills in general (doesn’t pull, looks at you on command, stops by your side and waits), you can probably skip this step.

    Otherwise, it’s back to basics!

    Start in a low distraction area such as your living room. Use treats, praise, and play to teach your dog to walk by your left side.

    At first, you may have to reward your dog for taking just one step with you. After consistent practice, you should be able to walk all over your house with your dog by your side, no matter how many twists and turns you throw in there!

    This is something you have to teach, and it’s a step many people skip.

    Once your dog understands how to walk by your side on command, practice the skill in your yard or in other areas nearby that are free of distractions. Clip a loose leash to your dog and continue practicing. Don’t forget to add in stops and turns!

    If your dog doesn’t have this basic skill thoroughly installed, you’re going to struggle with addressing leash reactivity. Remember, leash reactivity is caused by tension and if your dog never pulls, there will be no tension.

    Remember to ONLY use the equipment listed above; as you move towards situations where reactivity can happen, it’s important that you can maintain control.

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    Step Three – Re-Socialize Your Reactive Dog

    One of the biggest mistakes people make in puppyhood is that they allow their puppy to pull on the leash and greet all people and dogs at will.

    This causes reactivity and aggression. It has the opposite affect as intended!

    Now imagine your leash reactive Great Dane is a puppy, and we’re going to reset things a bit here.

    Dog training secret: good socialization means learning to ignore distractions in the environment, and to only interact with them when it’s safe and appropriate.

    A dog that has been taught through proper socialization to be indifferent towards dogs and people in the environment (vs rushing up to them and pulling in the process) will not be leash reactive.

    Take your dog out on a longer, loose leash to your front yard or a huge park where you can safely work with your dog but not trigger reactivity, frustration, or anxiety.

    Sit in the grass together. Watch people and dogs walk by. Use praise, treats, and play to reward your dog for engaging with YOU, not dogs and people they see milling about nearby.

    With time, you can gradually close the gap between you and the distractions. Never close that gap more than your dog can currently handle though.

    Pro Tip: Do NOT let well-meaning people approach and ask for a greeting. The goal here is to show the dog that people and dogs in the environment are just ‘there’ and don’t always mean getting to play, lunge, or go nuts.

    The more time you can spend doing this, the better! Replace your daily walk with this activity for even a week and you’ll start to notice a massive improvement in your dog’s ability to ignore reactivity triggers in the environment.

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    Step Four – Counter-Condition and Desensitize

    The next step is to teach your dog that seeing dogs or other triggers in the environment is actually a positive thing and does NOT result in leash tension.

    If you address leash reactivity by become frustrated, shouting, and popping the leash then YOU are actually part of the problem.

    Start in a place where you see no other dogs or people. Come up with a trigger word such as “pineapple” or “woof”, or use a clicker.

    Engage your dog with you, then say the trigger word or click the clicker, and immediately give your dog a treat. Repeat this several times until your dog will hear the trigger word or the clicker and look at you in anticipation of a reward.

    This is Pavlov! The dog will quickly learn to associate this word with something good. It is very helpful to use this word (or the clicker) several times throughout the day at first, in different places, so your dog learns it thoroughly.

    Pro tip, make sure your dog isn’t doing something they shouldn’t be when you say the trigger word or click!

    Next, go back to the quiet spot on the lawn or a park where you can see dogs and people from afar. As soon as you see one, say your trigger word (or click) and immediately reward your dog!

    With time and repetition, your dog learns that distractions in the environment result in their favorite new word.

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    Step Five – Correct & Redirect

    This is the part people always want to know how to do.

    Correct and redirect. Yes, there is a time and a place for this.

    Enter the Herm Sprenger Prong Collar with a safety clip.

    A properly used Prong collar does not actually poke and stab your dog. Unlike other ‘no-pull’ tools, it actually results in a very clear yes/no communication that is based on even pressure around the neck.

    Because you’ve followed the steps above and worked a lot on teaching the correct behavior and reducing the emotional response to triggers, you can start applying some correct/redirect action.

    To be perfectly honest, no matter how much time you had put into this up to this point, odds are, your reactive dog can absolutely still make a fuss. Don’t be complacent.

    As your dog shows signs that they are able to ignore distractions from 10 or 15 feet away, start taking them to the edge of their comfort level.

    The moment your dog starts to tense up, correct (a tiny wrist-action pop of the prong collar), reward your dog for responding to the correction, and redirect. Remember you can still also use your trigger word/clicker for the positive association as well.

    With time and practice, even the most reactive dog is going to be able to calmly and confidently walk past another dog on a leash! The trick here is to issue the correction (like a tap on the shoulder saying “uh uh, we’re not doing that“) before the reaction becomes an explosion.

    By bringing your dogs focus back to you, you can immediately then ask for a correct behavior, reward your dog, and move on with your day.

    Some trainers and many people skip the first several steps and go straight towards correct and redirect. While this can be effective in the short term, it is my personal belief that a more holistic and comprehensive approach rooted in creating positive associations and resetting socialization experiences will be more beneficial and reliable for all involved.

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    Do you have a Great Dane that is aggressive on a leash? Are you struggling with reactivity?

    Join us in our Facebook community and ask questions, we are here to help!

    Great Dane Owners Support Group

  • Why I Won’t Use a Front-Clip Harness on a Great Dane

    Why I Won’t Use a Front-Clip Harness on a Great Dane

    I’ll just come out and say it. I would never use a front-clip harness on a Great Dane. This shouldn’t be a controversial opinion, but it really is!

    Front-clip harnesses (such as the Pet Safe Easy Walk or 2 Hounds Freedom No-Pull Harness) are popular among dog owners and trainers who believe that because they are made of nylon, that they are a gentle and non-aversive tool.

    However, I beg to differ. Not only is a front clip harness aversive, it’s potentially (ok highly likely) to cause damage, frustration, and pain to your dog.

    Hear me out. If you use, or plan to use a front-clip harness, or have been told by a dog trainer that it’s humane (and that prong collars are bad), you’ll want to dig into this post.

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    4 Reasons I Won’t Use a Front-Clip Harness on a Great Dane

    I will cover these in more depth below, but here is the short version of why I think front clip harnesses are dangerous for dogs, especially for long-term use.

    1. They are easy to escape from
    2. It’s hard to get a proper fit on them
    3. They are inconsistent from a communication standpoint, which can lead to frustration
    4. They restrict the movement of the shoulders and can cause uneven strides, poor forward reach, and even limping

    Because Great Danes have sensitive orthopedic needs, it’s important to avoid the use of training tools and devices that result in restrictions to natural movement.

    Unfortunately, poor front angulation and incorrectly set front assemblies are something that plague Great Danes (we can thank the sheer volume of mediocre breeders for this). Dogs with an incorrectly placed shoulder and straight angles will struggle more with movement and reach than dogs whose genetic pedigree offered them better structure.

    For those dogs with the flat front and cathedral style chest, the front-clip harness is adding insult to injury. (Read more about front-assembly in Danes HERE)

    Below is an example of a Great Dane with a poor front assembly. Notice the ‘cathedral’ shape created where the chest and elbows meet. This happens because the shoulders are too far forward on the body. This dog also has poor angles in the shoulder, leading to that straight up and down appearance. Dogs with poor structure are built like stick figures, in other words.

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    #1 Front Clip Harnesses are Easy to Escape From

    A front-clip no-pull harness is designed in a “T” shape and it is very easy for a dog to pull backwards to escape from one. Because harnesses like this put a lot of pressure onto the chest and shoulders, some dogs may attempt to back out of them just to relieve the sensation.

    Responsible Great Dane ownership means keeping our dogs under control at all times.

    Not only is an escaped Great Dane dangerous to other dogs, people, and wildlife, they are a danger to themselves. If your Great Dane is not impeccably off-leash trained and likes to slip out of collars or harnesses, a T-shaped no-pull harness is the wrong choice.

    Instead, choose a wide, flat fabric martingale collar (like this one), which is escape proof. This is the perfect solution for newly rescued dogs as well, who may be a flight risk.

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    #2 It is Hard to Get a Good Fit On a Front-Clip Harness

    T-shaped front clip harnesses are exceptionally difficult to fit correctly on a dog, especially on Great Danes who have massive chests.

    The wrong fit will put even more unnecessary pressure on the shoulder assembly, and could also cause rubbing under the armpits.

    Easy Walk even states that excessive pulling into the harness can change the fit and cause additional rubbing and chafing.

    Note the addition of the martingale loop to the chest. This is part of the harness to add additional squeezing action when your dog pulls.

    Squeezing the shoulders so the dog can no longer move forward is not as ‘gentle’ of a technique as these tools are marketed to be.

    Front-Clip Harness on a Great Dane

    #3 Front Clip Harnesses Provide Inconsistent Communication

    The 2 Hounds Freedom no-pull harness is built to be used with a double leash system where a leash is clipped to both the front and the back of the harness. It also has the martingale loop to provide squeezing action.

    Keep in mind that two connection points doubles the tactile input from the leash. In this case, the dog will feel pressure into their back, chest, or both.

    Even if only one leash clip is used, the communication will be inconsistent.

    When a dog is learning how not to pull on the leash, it’s important to use a combination of YES and NO to communicate.

    When a no-pull harness says “NO” by applying pressure to the chest or tightening the strap around their shoulders, the dog should in theory understand that pulling = bad and not pulling = good.

    The problem is that this pressure is incredibly inconsistent. Even taking a step forward and not pulling into the harness can result in an incorrect communication of “NO” that is frustrating and confusing to your dog.

    Super sensitive dogs will respond to a harness like this by not pulling, ever. They may even move slowly and appear ‘under control’. Their body language may be subdued and docile.

    Some people mistake this as ‘calm’, when truthfully it’s a form of behavior suppression.

    I’ve even seen some dog trainers say that a harness like this is ‘calming’ and makes the dog feel secure. I personally believe this is a massive misunderstanding of how the dog actually feels.

    Less sensitive dogs may respond by adding pressure; they will pull into the harness to try and relieve the sensation. The harness will then force their body to the side. Because the pressure of YES and NO is not super clear in a harness like this, even with dedicated training to teach it, a dog may never quite understand what the end goal is.

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    #4 Front Clip Harnesses Work By Suppressing Natural Movement

    Do an experiment.

    Watch the people in your neighborhood walk their dogs. Look for the dogs that are on front-clip harnesses.

    Do they look comfortable? Happy?

    Is the harness keeping the dog from pulling, or does the dog pull into the harness while the loop tightens up around their shoulder?

    Are they able to reach forward and take natural steps, or do they appear to be limping, walking slowly, or taking small steps instead of large strides?

    When you start to really observe, you’ll notice that many of the dogs in front-clip harnesses tend to look either uncomfortable, or they are pulling anyways.

    A no-pull harness is built with a strap across the chest that is meant to tighten and apply pressure when they pull forward into it. With enough pulling and pressure added, the dog will eventually also be forced to the side.

    As Great Dane owners and advocates, we believe that this type of training tool is unfair to Great Danes and potentially damaging to their orthopedic health, especially when used long term.

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    Should I Use a No-Pull Harness on My Great Dane?

    This is up to you.

    For short term use (while in training), a front clip harness may provide you with just enough leverage to reinforce the correct behavior.

    We would not recommend long term use of a no pull harness on Great Danes.

    If you do want to try a harness with a front clip option, choose a well-built harness with a Y-front on it, like the Ruffwear Front Range. This won’t restrict movement, but if your dog tries to lunge or pull it will pull them to the side (and give you a little more control).

    It’s important to keep in mind, however, that Great Danes are giant breed dogs. If they pull into a nylon training tool like this, it’s not likely to stop them from dangerous behaviors such as running, lunging, or jumping while on a leash. An untrained Dane in a harness is a dangerous animal.

    There are two training tools that we do recommend for Great Danes. When used correctly, both tools are humane, gentle, and don’t rely on restrictions to movement.

    An E-Collar can be used at very low, positive levels to establish off-leash reliability. Read more about this HERE. Well trained off-leash dogs cannot injure themselves or others by pulling or lunging. The skills taught in a positive off-leash training program translate beautifully to the use of a slip lead or martingale collar when needed.

    A prong collar uses even pressure (not poking or stabbing) and makes YES and NO communications very clear for dogs that have been taught how to turn the pressure off. Unlikes a nylon harness, the shoulders are free to move naturally.

    Note in the illustration below, from the Great Dane Club of America written standard for Great Danes, how the front arms reach out, extending as far as the nose can reach.

    Screen Shot 2023 02 08 at 3.12.26 PM

    How Do I Train My Great Dane Not to Pull?

    Of course, pulling behavior is frustrating and dangerous!

    A Dane pulling into a non-restrictive front clip harness (like the one mentioned above) is a MUCH better alternative to a Dane pulling into a flat collar.

    However, there are better ways overall.

    The biggest leash mistake dog owners make is not realizing that in order to stop pulling, the dog must be taught what to do instead.

    My advice?

    • Stop looking to “no-pull” tools to magically solve your pulling problem
    • Start instead, off-leash, in your living room. Use high value treats to reward the behavior of looking at you, walking next to you, engaging with you, and coming when called
    • With time, you can clip on a leash (to a collar) and continue practicing the behaviors of “Heel” and “With Me”. Additionally, you can phase out the rewards and just use praise, too!
    • Once your dog has a solid understanding of walking near you, layer in the prong collar.
    • Teach your dog how to respond to gentle prong pressure by turning towards you.

    You can purchase a Herm Sprenger prong training collar HERE.

    Here is a phenomenal video on how to properly and positively introduce a prong collar. Special thanks to Argos Dog Training for this fantastic content (please LIKE and FOLLOW this trainer!):

  • New Great Dane Puppy? This Guide is For You!

    New Great Dane Puppy? This Guide is For You!

    December is a popular time to get a new Great Dane puppy. I believe that a lot of this is related to the Holidays; puppies are readily available, adorable, and popular to receive or give for Christmas!

    If you are new to the world of Great Danes, or ready for a refresher, let’s jump in. I’ll be covering:

    • Great Dane puppy nutrition
    • Crate and potty training
    • Training and socialization basics
    • Favorite must-have Great Dane puppy products
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    What to Feed a Great Dane Puppy

    This is arguably the most common question we see in the community. Because Great Danes grow so quickly, they are prone to a number of devastating growth disorders such as knuckling, hip dysplasia, Pano, and Angular Limb Deformity.

    Nutrition plays a big role in these disorders. Great Dane puppies cannot eat just any food that you pick out at the pet store. They require nutrition that is balanced specifically to support their growth.

    Lucky for you, we made a list! No need to deep dive, research, or read a million labels. (Though, if you are a science nerd like we are, we have TONS of great deep-dive style Great Dane puppy nutrition articles, which I will link below).

    Great Dane puppies should be fed a well-researched large OR giant-breed puppy food until 18-24 months of age.

    So simple. Here is the list to choose from. These foods are safe, nutritious, correctly balanced, and packed with everything your Great Dane puppy needs to thrive. If they are on this list, it’s because we believe in the science behind them:

    Check out THE GIANT DOG FOOD PROJECT to compare brands and values.

    Interested in digging into why some foods made our list and some foods (including popular ones) did not? Here are a few articles to deep-dive into!

    Puppy vs. Adult food for Great Dane Puppies

    DCM: Dietary Heart Disease Update 2022

    How to Choose the Best Dry Food for Great Danes

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    How to Potty Train a Great Dane Puppy

    Ethical Great Dane breeders will have already started the process of potty training your puppy. The good news is that if you chose an exceptional breeder, this process should be a breeze!

    For puppies that weren’t given a head-start, expect to put a little more time in. Your patience, however, will pay off.

    To potty train a Great Dane puppy, follow these steps:

    • Keep your puppy near you and supervised at ALL times
    • Go outside often, especially after naps, meals, training sessions, and play
    • Don’t expect your puppy to hold their bladder for more than 2 hours at first, even overnight
    • When your puppy does their business outdoors, immediately praise AND offer treats
    • If your puppy has an accident indoors, ignore it. Clean it up with Rocco & Roxie Urine Destroyer (my personal favorite, it smells amazing and works like a dream)

    Great Dane puppies grow up incredible fast! While potty training your puppy may seem like a chore, it will be a distant memory before you know it.

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    How to Crate Train a Great Dane Puppy

    Hopefully you’ve chosen to crate train your Great Dane puppy! Crates are not cruel; they are a safe space for your puppy and may become their favorite place in the house!

    (Need help choosing a crate? We’ve compiled a list of the BEST crates for Great Dane Puppies HERE).

    To crate train your Great Dane puppy, follow this list:

    • Make sure your crate is in a safe, quiet spot
    • The crate should also be a cozy space with a quality orthopedic mattress
    • Feed all meals in the crate
    • Use a West Paw Toppl Toy before naps; stuff it with soaked kibble (freezing this can make an extra challenge) or balanced canned food (in moderation at first)
    • Encourage positive, stress-free interactions with the crate; not crying and panic
    • Play the “Catch & Release” game below

    To play “CATCH & RELEASE”

    Toss a treat into the crate and say “CRATE!”

    Then toss a treat outside of the crate and say “FREE!”.

    With repetition, your puppy will quickly bounce into and out of the crate on command.

    Gradually add time between the two commands (increasing the time that your puppy is inside of the crate before being released) and begin closing the door, even if only for a moment at first.

    Play this game several times each day until you can say “CRATE” from several feet away (and your puppy runs in with enthusiasm) and until your puppy will not exit the crate until you say “FREE”.

    We recommend minimizing excessive crate use in exceptionally young puppies; focus first on positive crate training and supervision (even if this means hiring a pet sitter to help out for the first month or two).

    An x-pen can be a great alternative for super young puppies!

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    How to Socialize a Great Dane Puppy

    Socialization, next to proper nutrition, is one of the most important things you can do to raise a healthy, confident, friendly puppy.

    Many people believe that socialization means going to the pet store or the dog park and flooding a puppy with people and other dogs (who may be rude, pushy, or scary).
    This is actually a huge mistake!

    Socialization actually means: “Positive exposure to a variety of interesting, novel, and everyday things”.

    This could mean exposure (good experiences) to:

    • Other dogs walking by (and ignoring them)
    • Children playing from a distance
    • A variety of people
    • Loud sounds such as fireworks, doorbells, hammers, and knocking
    • Wood chips, puddles, sand, gravel, grass, sidewalks, bridges
    • Things that wobble, bounce, or roll
    • Things that are noisy such as vacuums, cars, lawnmowers, and large fans
    • Being handled and touched all over: teeth, paws, ears, torso, tail
    • Being brushed, groomed, and manicured
    • The veterinarians office (including the scale and exam room)
    • Pet friendly stores (and learning to ignore things in them)

    If you want to raise a stable puppy, start by choosing a breeder who is known for creating stable, friendly, confident puppies. Socialization is the icing on top!

    Need more socialization ideas? Check out our popular Great Dane puppy socialization guide.

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    New Great Dane Puppy 101

    Last, but not least, here is our list of Great Dane 101 tips!

    • Don’t stop at puppy classes! Continue working on obedience until your Great Dane has ideally obtained at minimum their Canine Good Citizen (CGC) title. Use lots of positive reinforcement.
    • Learn about bloat, one of the top killers of Great Danes (read here for more information)
    • Learn about DCM (Dilated Cardiomyopathy), a common genetic heart disease in Great Danes that may also be caused, or worsened, by bad nutrition
    • Trim nails weekly and brush teeth daily
    • Avoid training tools such as Gentle Leaders, Halti Head Collars, and “No-Pull” or “Front Clip” style harnesses that work by restricting movement and applying aversive (and even damaging or dangerous) pressure to the shoulders, chest, or head.
    • Consider E-Collar training your Great Dane; our modern method uses less pressure than a leash and will allow complete freedom of movement (Get our E-Collar training guide HERE)

    At Hello Danes we support and believe in: gastropexy, balanced dog training, ethical breeding practices, reputable Great Dane rescues, and the concept that Great Danes should be confident, friendly, and built for longevity.

    Need more? Join our popular Great Dane group on Facebook (Hello Danes Group) where we share modern, science-backed nutrition and training advice.

  • 5 Obedience Commands Every Great Dane Should Know

    5 Obedience Commands Every Great Dane Should Know

    Great Danes are giant breed dogs and if you’ve spent any time around them, you know they are both “Gentle Giant” and “Giant train-wreck!” If you know, you know. Here are 5 obedience commands every Great Dane should know.

    Today’s post is part tongue-in-cheek, part reality, and 100% necessary if you live with a dog that is larger than life!

    Great Dane Nicknames

    Because living with a giant-breed dog has its moments, many people lovingly find themselves degrading their dog’s names into a series of nicknames.

    Beau = Bozo

    Moose – Mooove it

    Duke – Doofus Face

    Bella – Big Bella

    Wren – Wreck it Wren

    And so on. Us Dane owners mean well, we really do! So in order to avoid shouting a constant stream of frustrated expletives, it’s important that our big dogs are well-trained. Here are my 5 top obedience commands all Great Dane dogs should know.

    obedience commands every Great Dane should know

    Get Out of There!

    Remember, Great Danes are NOSY. They want to know what is going on, why it’s happening, and how they can help.

    They will slam open doors, stick half their body into the open fridge, jump into the car (hopeful for a ride somewhere), and be the first ones to greet your guests.

    That’s why teaching a solid “OUT” or “WALK AWAY” command to your Great Dane is so important.

    “OUT” or “WALK AWAY” means, “get the flip out of there“.

    Keep in mind that some people use the term “OUT” to command a dog to drop something or stop in bite work sports, so if that’s you, choose a different word.

    By using a calm voice, you can help keep Bozo or Jackass from getting into places they shouldn’t – like the neighbor’s trash cans.

    How to teach this:

    With your dog on a leash, encourage them to explore something interesting and novel such as a box or toy.

    Then say “WALK AWAY” and apply a small amount of leash tension. As soon as your dog turns towards you, say YES and then toss a few treats on the ground. The treats should be behind you so that your dog has to literally walk away from the object to get to them.

    Repeat this several times, then practice again another time or day. With time and practice, your Great Dane will understand the command and you’ll be able to give it when needed. For example, when Doofus Face is nosing into the bathroom while you are taking a shower.

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    Get Off of That!

    Jumping is for trampoline parks, and coffee tables are for…coffee.

    The “OFF” command literally means “get off”. That could mean anything from “Get off of our guests” and “stop jumping” to “get off of the back of the couch!” or “why are you on the table, again!”.

    Many a jumping Great Dane has landed a human in the ER with bumps, bruises, and breaks. Not to mention the fact these so-called “majestic” creatures are nothing more than giant, clumsy cats.

    They believe they fit on laps, love to give kisses, and are likely to have no hesitation about getting on top of crates, tables, or counters.

    Great Danes do NOT KNOW HOW BIG THEY ARE.

    I repeat. They have no clue and they don’t care, either.

    You have to teach OFF. For Great Danes, this particular obedience command is more important than “SIT”. Prove me wrong! If you are ready to learn how to train a great dane not to jump, get on top of things, or hop the fence, read on.

    How to teach this:

    The trick with this particular command is that to truly practice it, your dog may have to be doing something we don’t want them doing. However, because we don’t want Big Bella practicing the behavior of sitting on top of the counters, it’s best to avoid that situation.

    You can replicate it, however, with a towel.

    Keep your dog on a leash. Put a towel on the ground and ask your dog to be on it (it’s helpful if your dog knows the “PLACE” command, which we cover below).

    Say “OFF” and toss a treat away from the towel. If your dog won’t leave the towel, add a little leash pressure as a tactile communication.

    Rinse and repeat. Several times, because dogs need repetition!

    With time, you’ll be able to apply the “OFF” obedience command to several things (for example, jumping on a guest or the fence, which should be first practiced while your dog is on a leash. As soon as your dog goes to jump, say “OFF” and toss a treat away from the person or thing that they are jumping on).

    jackson Tilly 206

    Quit Pulling, We’re Not in a Sled Race!

    Great Danes that pull, lunge, or display reactivity on a leash are actually pretty dangerous animals. I’m not talking dangerous like a shark, I’m talking dangerous like a FREIGHT TRAIN.

    Yes, even sweet Moose, who wouldn’t hurt a fly, can take you for a ride if he sees a squirrel he wants!

    Enter the following commands “HEEL”, “WITH ME”, “EASY”, “TOUCH”, and “LOOK”.

    I know what you are saying here. “But Hello Danes people, that’s 5 commands for just this one thing!!!”

    Hear me out. All of those sub-commands are how you will be able to safely and gently control a young, powerful, 140 lb intact male dog on a loose leash. But they have to be taught.

    • Heel – Walk neatly by my side
    • With Me – Walk nicely near me
    • Easy – Cool your jets
    • Touch – Touch your nose to my palm
    • Look – Make eye contact with me

    How to teach this:

    Because this is SUCH a broad topic, here are some of our favorite articles. There are many theories out there on how to control a Great Dane; we wouldn’t be Hello Danes if we didn’t share our favorites (and our gripes, too).

    Like this one on why using a Prong Collar on a Great Dane is the most humane, effective, and safe choice. Or this one, on why a Gentle Leader might damage your dog. Or this one, on why harnesses are dangerous on Great Danes, especially ones that pull. Or this one, on how to teach good leash skills using Positive Reinforcement.

    As before, good training uses a lot of treats. Here are some of our dog’s favorites:

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    Stay Put!

    Sometimes we want our Great Danes to walk by our side. Occasionally, we may even welcome them throwing their entire bodies onto our laps or jumping up onto our shoulders for loving. Other times, we want to watch them run and zoomie all over the place.

    That is, of course, until they become an elephant in an antique store.

    To put this bluntly, there are times when you just need Wreck-it-Wren to stay in one place. Stop moving, stop knocking things over, stop stepping on toes, stop begging at the dinner table, stop rushing the door when guests enter the home…shall I go on?

    Enter the “PLACE” command. Think of it like your dog’s charging device. Occasionally, they need to go back on their chargers to rest and stay out of your way.

    How to Teach This

    Use a mat, towel, elevated cot, or dog bed.

    Throw a treat on the mat and say “PLACE”. Your dog will go onto the mat, at which point you will also praise your dog. Then say “FREE” and toss a treat off of the mat.

    As with all good dog training, rinse and repeat.

    Gradually add time between your “PLACE” and “FREE” commands, and with practice, you’ll even be able to walk away. Start by taking one step back, then 5, then 10, and so on until you can go out of sight, open the front door, or eat a meal and have your dog stay on the mat until you say the magic word (FREE).

    You don’t need to use corrections, pressure, or frustration to teach this! Just be patient and take baby steps.

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    Hey You, Get Back Here!

    I don’t know about you, but I don’t want my giant freight train of a dog running amok off-leash and refusing to come when called.

    That said, most Danes are pretty clingy animals and easy to off-leash train! The problem is actually (as Taylor Swift says) this:

    “Hi, it’s me. I’m the problem, it’s me”.

    Don’t believe me? Here is my list of ways that people sabotage their dog’s recall before they even get started. For fun, give yourself one point for every failure:

    • Allowing a dog off-leash that isn’t 100% reliable off-leash
    • Scolding a dog who ran off, when they finally do return
    • Shouting at and chasing a dog who ran off
    • Using dated, punitive training techniques that teach dogs to fear us and stay away (alpha rolls, intimidation, shouting, tapping, hitting)
    • Never allowing a dog off-leash or safe long-line freedom of any kind (making it a novel experience)
    • Never actually teaching a dog that the word “COME” = high-value treats, praise, play, and fun

    How to teach this:

    You need a LONG LINE, HIGH-VALUE TREATS, and a modern E-COLLAR.

    Now before you get on me about the ‘Shock Collar’, learn about them here.

    Use the long line and the treats to teach and reward recall (“COME”) several times in several different places. Your dog should be able to come back for a treat, praise, or fun game from 1 foot away or 20 feet away in several environments.

    Now, if you did an OOOPS and scolded your dog, even once, for ignoring the word “COME”, I suggest changing that word to something that you can build a fresh positive association with. Examples include “HERE” or “JOIN ME”.

    Coming back should ALWAYS be a party and a good time.

    At that point, you can layer in an E-Collar, which uses gentle muscle stimulation to replace leash pressure (making it an exceptional backup device for off-leash exploration anywhere you go).

    SHOP E-COLLARS HERE and use code HELLODANES for 10% off.

    BUY YOUR E COLLAR FROM HELLO DANES 2240 × 2000 px

    Need more Great Dane obedience training ideas?

    How to train a Great Dane puppy not to bite

    Are you training a stubborn Great Dane, or is your stubborn Great Dane training you?

    Great Dane Training Schedule (for Potty Training)

    5 Best Wedding Merchandise 1
  • Are Great Danes Scared of Everything?

    Are Great Danes Scared of Everything?

    There’s something uniquely special about Great Danes – they’re big, muscular dogs that are often referred to as the gentle giants of the canine world. But despite their docile appearance, many Great Danes are scared of everything!

    Great Danes are not actually supposed to be timid or fearful, but unfortunately many of them are.

    In this blog post, we’ll explore some of the reasons why these dogs might be so fearful and offer some tips for helping them overcome their fears.

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    Why Are Great Danes Timid?

    Unfortunately, many people have come to believe that all Great Danes are timid and scared of everything, even if there is no real evidence to suggest this.

    It’s true that some Great Danes may be more anxious or skittish than other dogs, but every dog responds differently to different situations.

    Genetics can play a role in a dog’s temperament, and some Great Danes may inherit a predisposition to anxiety or fearfulness. Early socialization is critical for all dogs, and if a Great Dane doesn’t receive adequate exposure to different people, animals, and environments during their crucial developmental stages, they may become more apprehensive.

    Additionally, traumatic experiences, such as loud noises or frightening encounters, can contribute to fear in Great Danes, as they can in any dog breed. It’s important for Great Dane owners to provide a supportive and nurturing environment, along with proper training and positive reinforcement, to help their dogs build confidence and overcome their fears.

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    The Great Dane Breed Standard

    The Great Dane breed standard describes the ideal physical characteristics and temperament of a Great Dane, including their fearlessness.

    If you look closely at the breed standard, you’ll find that “courage and vigilance” are some of the most important characteristics of this noble dog.

    Here is a direct quote from the Great Dane Club of America’s written standard for Great Danes:

    The Great Dane must be spirited, courageous, always friendly and dependable, and never timid or aggressive. 

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    Fearful Great Danes Everywhere

    So, if the written standard states that the Great Dane should be a confident, fearless, and friendly dog, why do so many people believe or notice otherwise?

    Many Great Dane owners have dogs and puppies that are experiencing excessive fear and anxiety, aggression, poor confidence, and issues with separation.

    There are several things that lead to this (which we will dig into below), but the biggest culprit driving the belief is social media.

    People are sharing and normalizing these traits, and it’s having a significant impact on the public perception of Great Danes.

    Have you ever seen somebody in a social media group who is upset or amused that their dog is terrified of strangers, objects, or even simple things such as a wrapped present?

    Several dog owners will often chime in and say things such as:

    “That’s just a Dane thing!”

    “Totally normal! These dogs are such chickens!”

    “Danes are afraid of everything, it’s just how they are.”

    I hate to break it to you, but no, this is not a “Dane Thing” and no, Danes are not actually fearful timid chickens.

    At least, they aren’t supposed to be.

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    Why is my Great Dane Afraid?

    Below, I’m going to list the factors that contribute to fearful and anxious behavior in Great Danes. How many of these things can be avoided?

    Genetic Predisposition

    The genetics of temperament is not yet well understood, but there is enough research pointing to the fact that the pedigree strongly impacts fearfulness and poor behaviors in Great Danes.

    Great Danes who suffer from separation anxiety, aggression, fear, resource guarding, and timid behavior are very likely to pass those traits onto their offspring.

    Researchers have even identified a specific gene variant linked to fearfulness in Great Danes.

    https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fvets.2021.693290/full#:~:text=In%20the%20same%20study%2C%20variants,%2Ddirected%20aggression%20(8).

    Unfortunately, these dogs will also be more prone to bloat, a painful and extremely deadly condition in large and giant breed dogs. There are definitely genetic causes behind fearfulness, bloat, and temperament that need more research.

    One of the best ways to avoid this occurring is to never support breeders that aren’t heavily invested in the genetic background, OFA health testing, structure, and health of the dogs being bred.

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    Environmental Factors

    The environment in which a dog is raised has a tremendous impact on its behavior and fear levels. It is believed that dogs with a genetic predisposition to fearfulness, anxiety, and aggression may be more susceptible to damage caused by these factors.

    This is why some dogs can experience traumatic events and still be calm, sweet, and loving while other dogs will become extremely reactive and fearful after a mild but stressful everyday occurrence (such as a veterinary visit or being left home alone).

    Great Danes who are exposed to loud noises, sudden movements, or rough handling when they are young may be more likely to become fearful than those who are not. There is a huge difference between positive exposure to things in the environment, and flat-out scaring a puppy for life.

    These environmental factors can include anything from thunderstorms to being scolded. For some dogs, hearing a loud car zoom by just once is enough to cause them to fear cars for life.

    These dogs may also be more prone to developing separation anxiety and becoming overly attached to their owners, too.

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    Negative Experiences

    Dogs living in shelters, or who have been rescued from situations such as puppy mills, often come with a multitude of behavioral issues. Some of this is because of the aforementioned genetic link, and some of it is because they weren’t offered the gentle, positive early socialization that they needed in life.

    In some cases, the fear stems from past traumas or abuse. These experiences will stick with a dog and can cause them anxiety and fearfulness that they will live with for their whole lives.

    A single dog attack, a bad experience with a child, or a yank of the leash on the neck can be enough to cause a dog to become fearful of certain people, animals, situations, and environments.

    This is not to say we should coddle our dogs and prevent all forms of stress or potential negative experiences!

    As a matter of fact, previous studies show that small amounts of stress can actually build confidence. It is important to be aware of our dog’s degree of fear and make sure to provide them with gentle guidance and encouragement when possible, not coddling.

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    Bad Dog Training Methods

    This is one of the most commonly overlooked reasons why Great Danes are often scared of everything. When a dog is trained using punishment, fear, intimidation, or too much physical restraint it can become fearful and anxious.

    Positive training techniques should always be used with Great Danes to ensure that their relationship with humans is based on trust and respect.

    Outdated “alpha” and “dominance” based training methods are largely to blame, as those techniques rely on heavy, harsh handling and physical force. Reality television, in other words, is a terrible place to get training advice (Cesar Milan, I’m looking at you!).

    We never recommend the use of pinching, tapping, thumbing, nosing, shoving, rolling, pinning, scaring, stomping, hovering, or cheap shock collars to train Great Danes.

    For modern, humane training methods, find a dog trainer who uses balanced + positive techniques focused on rewards, great experiences, and happy body language.

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    Leash Tension and Poor Handling

    This is a common cause of reactivity and anxiety in Great Danes, especially while on a leash!

    When a dog pulls, they experience tension around its neck, face, or chest. This tension increases their frustration level, which can cause increased reactivity and even aggression while on a leash.

    Even the most gentle, well-tempered dog is susceptible to this.

    Therefore, it is important to teach the correct behavior and avoid excessive jerking, tension, or yanking when walking your dog; especially if they see another dog or human on the path nearby!

    Communicating to your dog with vocal cues (such as “easy”, “with me”, or “look”) and rewarding that behavior is much more effective than relying on physical restraint and force. Pair this with the gentle on/off pressure from a properly fit prong collar to teach positive loose-leash walking skills.

    (Read here for why I believe a prong collar is the most humane and gentle option for large and giant breed dogs).

    Finally, dogs have an innate sense of body language that can greatly affect how they interpret a handler’s attitude. If their owner or handler is anxious or fearful, the dog will pick up on those emotions and become anxious as well. It is important to remain calm when handling Great Danes in order to communicate that there is nothing to fear.

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    Poor Socialization

    A lack of socialization can cause Great Danes to develop fear and anxiety about new people, places, animals, and situations.

    It is important for the puppies to be exposed (not forced) to as many sights, sounds, textures, smells, and people as possible in order to give them a good start in life.

    Bringing an overwhelmed, scared puppy into a pet store or around rude dogs in an uncontrolled situation (ehhh…the dog park) is not socialization; that is a bad experience. It’s important to advocate for your puppy.

    Good breeders are using programs such as Puppy Culture and ENS to develop strong and resilient dogs by taking advantage of the early stages of development. Brain development in the first weeks of life is incredible and every experience that the puppy has at that stage can have a significant impact on temperament.

    Giving Great Danes a good start in life with responsible breeding, positive training, and proper socialization methods should help prevent them from being scared of everything!

    We’ve created a well-loved Great Dane puppy socialization guide for reference. You can view it here:

    https://hellodanesshop.com/products/puppy-socialization-guide
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    Pain and Medical Conditions

    Last, but not least, we have to mention that pain and medical conditions (including thyroid disorders, arthritis, heart conditions, poor conformation, and even overgrown nails) can affect how a dog views and interacts with the world.

    Your veterinarian can rule out any physical ailments or conditions that could be causing the fear response in your dog. Even something as simple as a change in diet can make a big difference in how a dog looks, feels, acts, and behaves!

    Even puppies can be suffering from medical conditions and pain that cause them to be nervous, anxious, timid, frustrated, or aggressive.

    Always talk to your veterinarian if your dog isn’t happy, healthy, energetic, and robust.

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    How do you Calm a Scared Great Dane?

    If you have a fearful, timid, or reactive Great Dane, the key is to provide them with positive experiences.

    Focus on building trust and strengthening your bond – working through a few simple obedience exercises (or learning new tricks) can be a great way to bond with your pup and give them something to focus their energy on.

    It’s important to set up successful experiences for your dog, too.
    When a dog is practicing fearful and timid behavior on repeat, they are actually reinforcing (practicing and worsening) that behavior and those emotions.

    Set your pup up for success, avoid negative experiences and punishment-based training methods, and look for signs of fear (hiding, averting eyes and ears, trembling or shaking).

    Never coddle your dog, either! It’s important to recognize that your pup needs help, but it’s also important to be strong and confident in your leadership.

    Many times, by showing confidence and calm indifference yourself, you can naturally deescalate the fear and anxiety that your dog is feeling.

    Throw in a little bit of positive reinforcement and with time, your dog can learn that great things and opportunities are all around them. A quality training program can be the difference between a scared and timid pup, to an outgoing and confident dog.

    For information on how to find a good professional trainer to help you with your dog’s excessive fear, anxiety, or aggression, check out this article on how to choose an ethical professional.

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    Can a Fearful Dog be Cured?

    A lot of people believe that a fearful dog can be “cured” with enough love and attention. Unfortunately, this isn’t always the case.

    Dogs can learn to cope better and develop more confidence over time, but many times the fear is still likely to remain at some level. It’s important to remember that fear was an evolutionary adaptation for our dogs – in the interest of survival, it’s quite normal for them to be cautious of some things!

    It’s our job as owners and guardians to help them learn to live with and cope with that fear, rather than trying to “cure” it away.

    It’s also important that we stop spreading misinformation. It’s not a “Dane thing” to be fearful, unstable, and flighty.

    Don’t Make This Mistake

    Showing a dog something that they are scared to elicit a funny (read: fearful) reaction for social media is not cute.

    This is extremely poor handling and is wildly unfair to dogs who aren’t sure how to cope with the world in a healthy way.

    Don’t do this. Great Danes are extremely susceptible to bloat, which is often-times brought on by stress and anxiety!

    Do you have a scared Great Dane?

    If you have a scared or anxious dog, know that you are not alone. Many other dog owners share your struggles!

    Reach out to your veterinarian, an experienced trainer, and professional resources for help in working with and managing your pup’s behavior. Do some research into positive behavior modification techniques such as B.A.T. 2.0 by Grisha Stewart as well.

    It can take time and patience to get to the bottom of why your pup is so scared, but doing so will be better for their health and happiness!

  • 5 Controversial Ways I Raise my Danes

    5 Controversial Ways I Raise my Danes

    When I met my friend Natalie (we have littermates and started this blog together), I was a noisy card-carrying member of the ‘force-free’ dog training club. Both of us were anti-Purina and hated ‘big kibble’, too. I disliked breeders and believed only in rescue. Prong collars and E-Collars? NEVER.

    Together, we wanted our blog to be rooted in ethics, not to mention current research, science, and methods.

    What surprised me was learning just how much my mind began to change as I researched and shared information from legitimate scientific sources. The more studies I read and the more I learned, the farther I strayed from those original ideas I had about training, food, and breeding.

    I have since revoked my membership to the force-free, kibble-hating, breeder-hating dog club.

    As a science-backed blogger and dog advocate, here are 5 CONTROVERSIAL ways I raise my Danes. From nutrition to training, to E-Collars, I’m sharing it all!

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    We Don’t Rest After Meals

    In the Great Dane community, it’s long been cited that resting before or after meals would prevent bloat.

    (Bloat is a deadly condition in large and giant breed dogs where their stomach fills up with gas, fluid, or air. If the stomach flips, the prognosis is grim. This condition is often sudden and may result in death, quickly. There is no known trigger. However, there are known risk factors including genetics, unstable temperaments, and poor gut health).

    However, during THIS STUDY at Tufts University, researchers found absolutely no correlation between exercise and bloat. The study indicated that most cases of bloat happen to dogs that are resting, not moving!

    There was no correlation of bloat risk to exercise before or after eating, as most dogs bloated in the middle of the night with an empty, gas-filled stomach.

    Tufts University Bloat Study

    This is not to say that rest will kill a Great Dane. But we need to stop villifying movement and food, too.

    There has never been a single study proving that movement caused bloat in dogs or that rest was a legitimate way to keep it from happening. As a matter of fact, bloat rates have increased dramatically in the last 30+ years despite ‘resting’ being cited as a preventative.

    I hate to break it to you, but it’s not working.

    While it may be smart to take it easy after meals to prevent indigestion or stretching the stomach ligaments out (which CAN lead to an increased risk of bloat over time), movement itself is not likely to be a trigger.

    I don’t believe in the false sense of security that this old-school, outdated advice provides.

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    I Use a Prong Collar

    Prong collars look awful. They are metal and pokey, which makes people assume that they work by being extremely painful.

    Here is the actual reality:

    A properly fit, high-quality Herm Sprenger prong collar is less aversive, less frustrating, and more humane than a front clip harness, “Gentle Leader”, or never getting to go out because of dangerous pulling and lunging behavior.

    Why is this? Prong collars are built to distribute pressure evenly around the neck. This pressure does not hurt or pinch, but it is uncomfortable.

    Coincidentally, the pressure from front-clip “no-pull” harnesses and “gentle leaders” is uncomfortable too. That’s why they work. The difference here is that the prong collar doesn’t rely on restricting movement.

    “No-Pull” harnesses restrict shoulder movement and alter the dog’s gait, causing potential damage and pain to the front assembly and joints. “Gentle Leader” type head collars restrict neck and head movement and can potentially damage the eyes, nose, jaw, and spine.

    Watch THIS video on YouTube to learn more. ⬅ One of the best parts about this video is that the dog’s body language immediately improves when the trainer removes the harness from her! The harness was causing suppression of her emotion and behavior; a common problem that people don’t notice or care to admit.

    Prong collars do not harm dogs, suppress, or restrict them. The amount of pressure needed to communicate with one can be applied with a single finger. With proper training, the dog learns to remove this pressure by turning back to you for a reward.

    The prong collar offers a simple, painless, on-off sensation that solves a LOT of problems for millions of people struggling with their dogs.

    Look, these are GIANT breed dogs. Even the most well trained animal is stronger than most humans. Lunging, pulling, and reactivity are dangerous behaviors in Great Danes, and it’s not fair to lock them up for life because we cannot trust them to be polite, calm, and gentle on a leash.

    Click HERE to read my story about why my well-trained Great Dane sometimes wears a prong collar when in public.

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    My Dogs Eat Purina & Royal Canin

    As I mentioned above, I revoked my card to the anti-Purina club. I used to be a rabid hater of all things Purina. As far as I was concerned, Royal Canin was trash, and Hill’s Science Diet? Don’t get me started.

    So how did I go from that negative mentality about the ‘Big 5 Foods’ to telling people who feed kibble that those brands are actually among only a small handful of acceptable choices?

    Story time!

    I spent years flip-flopping between food brands to find “something that worked“. I received advice from pet store employees, dog owners, blogs, and social media. Who doesn’t want to feed their dog a more holistic, natural food?

    All three of my dogs were struggling in some way or another. Chronic loose stools, swollen paws, itching, heat intolerance. Then one of my dogs became very, very sick. She was lethargic, had become weak, had no muscle tone, and had developed some concerning health problems.

    My veterinarian implored me to put her on Hill’s Science Diet or Purina, a suggestion that I thought was appalling and gross. I thought, “She is literally dying, why would I put her on that food and make it worse?”

    So I took her bloodwork into Chuck & Don’s and asked a pet store employee to look it over and give me advice.

    Read that again. I asked a pet store employee, with no qualifications, to tell me how to treat my dog.

    He told me to choose a “high-quality” diet from their shelves, and “steer clear of that nasty Hill’s Science Diet trash“.

    In telling me this, he validated my own misguided beliefs, and generated sales. ?

    It made ME feel good to buy that $90 bag of ‘Holistic Super-Premium” kibble, but it did not make my dog feel good. As a matter of fact, it did nothing for her.

    Do you know what did make her feel good and ultimately saved her life? PURINA PRO PLAN.

    Within weeks of feeding Purina, she was developing muscle tone again. All of her symptoms reversed completely and her energy level skyrocketed. My other dogs were suddenly thriving, too. It was nothing like I had been told.

    Many dog food brands use sneaky tricks and marketing tactics including ‘Ingredient Splitting’ to make you think the food has a higher meat content or is healthier. Everything they say is to get you to make a purchase.

    The more ‘holistic, natural, and premium’ the kibble seems, the more likely it is that they are better at marketing than they are at making truly nutritious and balanced food.

    READ MORE at the Tufts University Petfoodolgy blog. This is the most scientific, modern source for nutrition information and is run by veterinarians with board certifications in nutrition. One of the veterinary nutritionists is even a consultant for BalanceIt, where you can create safe, balanced homemade food recipes for your dog. Everything they say is backed by actual research, and you won’t find an ad, affiliate link, or financial motivation in sight.

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    My Dogs are E-Collar Trained

    Yup. That’s me. Former “Force-Free” dog training fanatic.

    All three of my dogs are now E-Collar trained. The “force-free / R+ / Positive ” dog training community HATES E-Collars, and with good reason.

    Too many frustrated people buy cheap shock collars on Amazon and zap the crap out of their unsuspecting, poorly-trained pets. This is not humane and it’s not fair.

    E-Collars are different. They first require that the dog has a good foundation in basic positive obedience.

    Then, they use a gentle muscle stimulation that is not aversive or painful. This stimulation is often imperceptible to humans and replaces leash pressure. By replacing leash pressure, we can effectively and safely eliminate physical restraint. This is an incredible innovation for giant breed dogs who are strong and powerful!

    By eliminating physical restraint, we eliminate the frustration, safety problems, physical power struggles, and potential damage to the head, neck, and shoulders that can be caused by collars, head collars, harnesses, and long lines.

    Because I trained my dogs to respond to very low levels of muscle stimulation, they can be off-leash anywhere that it is safe and legal to do so. They don’t have to drag long lines around, I can trust them to be in my front yard, and they would never, ever dream of bolting, jumping a fence, or leaving our property. If they did, the pressure (not shocks! Pressure, like hitting the end of a long leash) from their E-Collar will remind them to turn around.

    When they turn around, the pressure is gone; they are 100% in control of their collars and the sensation that comes from them.

    Run from any dog trainer who tells you that an E-Collar is always aversive and a harness and life on a long leash are not. They do not understand how behavior science, modern E-Collar training, or how physical restraints of all kinds utilize pressure and punishment in different ways.

    Since E-Collar training my dogs, they have more freedom, more choice, and more enrichment than ever before.

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    I Let My Dogs be Dogs

    What does it mean to let a dog be a dog?

    It means letting them get dirty. Allowing them to roll in mud pits, dig holes, crawl through the grass, and explore the world around them to their heart’s content.

    Letting a dog be a dog means treating them like dogs, not people or children. Giving them boundaries and saying NO to keep them safe, so that I can tell them YES as much as possible.

    It means letting them sniff the ground on walks, or better yet, be allowed to run naturally and freely off-leash as much as possible. That off-leash privilege begins with training, lots of boundaries, and yes, an E-Collar.

    All three of my dogs have orthopedic issues related to injuries from before I got them. Two are missing legs, one has a very deformed foot. I do not coddle them. They are allowed to run, play, tumble, struggle, fall, and get up again like any other dog. I take them to training classes. We go hiking. We walk. We play.

    With Boundaries, of Course…

    Educated dog ownership means never humanizing their emotions.

    Dogs are not spiteful or jealous or ‘dominant’, they are however often insecure, pushy, or rude and desperately need our guidance and understanding, not our assumptions and judgments.

    I have a no-tolerance policy when it comes to teeth, nails, and baths. My dogs get their spa treatments on a regular basis whether they like it or not. This is one place where I don’t let them just ‘be dogs’, because if I did, I would be neglecting needs that aren’t met naturally in the typical suburban home.

    We see the veterinarian regularly. I don’t coddle them there but we do make it a good experience – so much so that even my more timid rescue girl will willingly go with the veterinarian and lay down politely for her exams. They step onto the scales because I made it clear that it was not-negotiable.

    To some extent, I believe that the ‘force-free’ and ‘fear-free’ movement is harmful. Dogs who never face stress don’t learn to cope with it either, and it’s not uncommon for frustration, reactivity and fear to increase with those methods.

    As a reformed ‘force-free’ person, I now realize just how much science is cherry picked to fit that belief system.

    Dogs are not babies. We don’t have to coddle them or remove every single stress from their lives. Being isolated and restrained in the name of avoiding all forms of stress is no life for a dog at all. That said, we don’t have to be jerks to them, either! Force and harsh physical handling are not cool. Find some middle ground.

    Because I have high expectations of them, they are happier, calmer, friendlier, and stronger as a result!

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    Bonus: I Keep My Dogs LEAN

    If I had a dollar for every person who asked me if my dogs were starving, I’d be rich. They are not starving. They are covered in muscle and have tons of energy. Starving dogs can’t say the same.

    We are SO used to seeing overweight dogs, that a healthy-weight dog covered in muscle can appear alarmingly thin. Our perception has been skewed.

    Truth time: overweight dogs have shorter lifespans (2 years, on average). They are more likely to suffer from arthritis, joint problems, cancer, heart problems, and complications related to anesthesia, among other things.

    Danes are a lean breed. They take forever to mature, too. This photo is of my intact male at around age 2. He still has some filling out to do here, but not in terms of fat! His head, chest, and hips continued to broaden from this point on.

    If you want to reduce cancer risk, keep your dog lean! That’s step one.

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    I really could add a 7th item to this list about spaying and neutering, but I’ll stop here and save it for another day 🙂

    What controversial ways do you raise your dogs?