Poorly built giant breed dogs are being set up for a lifetime of injury, pain, weakness, and instability that shortens their lifespans and enjoyment of life. Flat Front and Cathedral Chest in Great Danes are a structural problem that is plaguing the breed.
A focus on correct build and movement are key elements of ethical and thoughtful Great Dane breeding programs.
Unfortunately, a large majority of people breeding Danes have minimized and even disregarded the importance of correct build, structure, and movement.
Let’s look at some Great Danes and talk about it!
A Great Dane with a flat chest and poor front angulation
What is Flat Front and Cathedral chest in Great Danes
Flat front in Great Danes are seen because there is a lack of muscle development and “ooomph” in the chest area, and is commonly seen in addition to poor angulation in the front limbs.
A lack of angulation in the front assembly removes any ‘give’ that would be be necessary for joint health and fluidity. Reach (the dogs ability to extend the arms forward) is compromised, and movement is no longer natural.
It’s kind of like walking with peg legs, in other words. At a certain point, that’s going to take a massive toll on the body.
A Great Dane with correct chest, muscle, and angulation will be able to extend the arm (as seen in the image below, from the GDCA written standard), allowing for graceful, long strides and forward momentum.
A flat chest and poor angulation are genetic problems in Great Danes that can lead to early arthritis, poor athletic abilities (sometimes seen as “laziness”), and damage to joint health.
Dogs with poor structure especially must be kept as lean, fit, and sound as possible.
Feeding a good diet and offering lots of free play and movement opportunities on soft-varied terrain benefits all Great Danes, but especially those that lack angulation and chest.
A Great Dane with a flat front, poor angulation, and a “cathedral chest” (indicated by the somewhat peaked arch shown where the legs and chest meet at the front).
What is a Cathedral Chest in Great Danes
A cathedral chest in Great Danes is caused by the shoulders being set too far forward on the chest. This is, as above, genetic.
Keep in mind that a dog carries roughly 60% of their weight on the front end. When the shoulders and front limbs are too far forward, it completely throws off balance, weight distribution, and movement.
The heavy, large chest of a Great Dane should be supported by strong, muscular shoulders that are set correctly; when they are not, the front end suffers.
To put this into perspective, imagine carrying a somewhat heavy or large box by stretching your arms outward, instead of carrying it closer to your chest.
Dogs with a cathedral type chest may even suffer from joint damage and deformities to the feet, elbows, and pasterns as their front limbs struggle to carry their weight.
To compare, here is a drawing of ideal Great Dane structure, from the GDCA written standard. You can see how the dog is able to stand up tall, and the chest is well supported by the structure, ‘lay back’, and placement of the strong and muscular shoulder blades.
On the flip side, below is a young Great Dane dog with a flat chest, cathedral chest, and poor angulation whose feet are flat and straining to support her weight. You may also notice some bowing of the long bones in the front limbs, and that the feet are turning outward.
This is the result of genetics, made worse by poor nutrition and care.
Unfortunately, this dog is being used for breeding by a popular breeder, and as a result is perpetuating painful structural problems in every puppy that she produces.
What is a Weak Chest in Great Danes?
Some Great Danes suffer from weak chest, or poor chest development and breadth of chest.
You can see this in dogs, like the one below, whose front limbs are close together.
While it can take a Great Dane 2-3 years to truly develop and mature physically, many dogs never develop and will have this lanky, narrow ribcage look for life.
This can be made permanent, or worse, by early spay and neuter. It is my belief that Great Danes need hormones to correctly mature, especially if they have unstable structure to begin with. Spay and neuter should happen no sooner than 18-24 months.
Talk to your veterinarian, and be a responsible owner when it comes to breeding or ‘accidental’ breeding of intact pet dogs.
A Great Dane with a Flat Chest and front limbs that are struggling to hold the weight of the dog up
The Role of Ethical Breeding in Great Dane Health
Unfortunately, many of the issues above are extremely common in pet Great Danes. A lot of people are breeding these dogs with very little understanding of how and why to breed for correct structure.
They rarely if ever seek a 3rd party opinion of the dogs they are breeding, and thus, blindly perpetuate orthopedic instability in their pedigree.
This is not fair, nor is it ethical.
Many of these breeders are friendly, have nice websites, and claim to health test their dogs. A lot of them are exceptionally popular because they produce so many puppies each year. That doesn’t mean, however, that they are producing stable, sound, and well-built puppies.
Of course, even in a well-bred, thoughtfully-bred litter from an outstanding pedigree of proven (in show) dogs, most puppies will have some minor faults. But they will have been set up for success, longevity, and health. Those are the breeders we should all be supporting (not the careless, profit-driven ones).
The Great Dane Written Standard
For more information about what Great Dane structure should look like, and how to find an ethical breeder, here as a little light reading for you!
We’ve been closely watching and monitoring information and studies in regard to dietary DCM in dogs. DCM is a deadly heart condition that often results in the sudden and unexplained death of otherwise ‘healthy’ looking dogs. This condition is often seen in relation to feeding grain-free or boutique dog kibbles.
A new DCM dog food study came out this week (December 2022) and the results are unfortunately concerning.
We are now several studies on nutritional DCM, and every single one has shown this same correlation: certain diets are causing heart disease in dogs.
If you have a dog and are trying to find the healthiest and safest dog food to feed them, you need to read this update.
Before we dig into the nitty gritty of this study, I will summarize the results with a quote directly from the abstract:
“Healthy dogs eating nontraditional diets had lower indices of systolic function and larger left ventricular volumes compared to dogs eating traditional diets. Screening of apparently healthy dogs eating nontraditional diets might allow for early detection of diet-associated DCM.”
In other words; dogs fed certain diets had alarming changes to their heart muscle. Whether we want to hear it or not, there are dog foods on the market that are causing heart disease in dogs, and you may be feeding one of them!
The results of this study were published in the Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine and can be viewed HERE.
Defining the ‘Non-Traditional’ Dog Food Diet
To better understand this study, we have to define what a non-traditional dog food diet is.
“Nontraditional diets were defined as those that contained pulse ingredients as main ingredients”
Pulse ingredients may include:
Peas
Garbanzo beans/chickpeas
Lentils
Potatoes
Sweet potatoes
Beans
Here is an example of an ingredient list with a lot of non-traditional ingredients, including lentils, pinto beans, peas, navy beans, and chickpeas.
Dietary DCM in Dogs Study Details
For this study, they recruited 46 healthy adult dogs over the age of 3.
They did not use dogs with a known genetic link to DCM such as Great Danes, Boxers, Doberman Pinschers, Irish Wolfhounds, Newfoundlands, or Portuguese Water Dogs.
All 46 dogs chosen were determined to be healthy at the onset of the study. Dogs that were not chosen were excluded for a number of reasons, including existing heart issues and other health conditions. Those receiving medications or taurine supplements were also excluded.
This means that at the beginning of the study, all 46 dogs had normal, healthy hearts.
They tried to match breeds between the two groups.
For example, if a Viszla was in the non-traditional diet group, they tried to place a Viszla in the traditional diet group as well.
90% of the food that the dogs ate had to be provided by a single dry-extruded food, and the dog’s diets and the ingredients in them were well documented.
This study shows that many efforts were made to ensure a clean, accurate, fair, and informational result. It’s important to note that there are ethical dilemmas associated with studying something that, based on current knowledge, could potentially harm one of the groups in the study.
That makes dietary DCM difficult to study, because more and more evidence is showing an alarming correlation (note: likely causation). We also have to take note of the fact that studying something like this takes years! Each study can really only look at one small factor.
At least 12 studies to date have shown that this is happening; nutritional DCM is real. It is not a scam cooked up by large dog food companies.
If we are to think logically, feeding dogs diets that are heavy in peas, legumes, pulses, or potatoes isn’t going to be good for them…no matter how we spin it.
DCM Study Results: Changes in Heart Function
None of us here are veterinarians, but we can all agree that the following statement from the DCM study is alarming:
“In this study of apparently healthy dogs, those eating nontraditional diets had lower systolic function compared to those eating traditional diets using 2D and 3D echocardiographic measurements of EF, as well as GLS.”
In other words, 23 dogs who began the study with healthy, normal hearts in the “non-traditional diets” group ended the study with signs that their heart muscle and function had changed for the worse.
Many Veterinary Cardiologists and veterinarians have been alarmed and concerned about a potential link between certain dog food diets and dilated cardiomyopathy. This study along with many others (which can be seen here) are collectively building a strong and concerning case that not all dog foods are created equal.
So what makes a diet safe or not safe for your dog? Let’s dig in.
Non-Traditional Dog Food Examples
Here are some examples of the kind of non-traditional dog food brands that are similar to or identical to the foods fed in the study. Please note, that these are just a handful of examples in a dog food market with literally thousands of choices.
This is not to say that these diets below are going to hurt your dog’s heart, but we highly suggest avoiding foods like this until additional information comes out regarding dog food and nutritional DCM.
Please note that some companies use ingredient splitting to move pulse and non-traditional ingredients lower on the list. A food with peas lower on the list could still actually be very high in peas.
Often present their food as “high-quality”, “holistic”, “natural”, and “free of fillers and by-products”
Are often sold at a premium price point
NOTE: by intentionally splitting single ingredients into 2 or more parts (peas + pea protein + pea fiber + pea flour) or using multiple different pulse ingredients (lentils, peas, potatoes), food companies can make the recipe appear to be meat-focused.
Add those ingredients up, however. If you put them all together in a bowl, it’s likely they actually outweigh the meat that was included in the formula.
Ingredients in Wellness Core Large Breed Dog Food:
Deboned Chicken, Chicken Meal (source of Glucosamine), Turkey Meal (source of Chondroitin Sulfate), Lentils, Peas, Dried Ground Potatoes, Tomato Pomace, Ground Flaxseed, Pea Fiber, Chicken Fat (preserved with Mixed Tocopherols), Natural Chicken Flavor, Potassium Chloride, Taurine, Vitamin E Supplement, Spinach, Broccoli, Carrots, Parsley, Apples, Blueberries, Kale, Choline Chloride, L-Carnitine, Zinc Proteinate, Mixed Tocopherols added to preserve freshness, Zinc Sulfate, Calcium Carbonate, Niacin, Iron Proteinate, Ferrous Sulfate, Vitamin A Supplement, Copper Sulfate, Thiamine Mononitrate, Copper Proteinate, Manganese Proteinate, Manganese Sulfate, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Sodium Selenite, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Riboflavin, Biotin, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Chicory Root Extract, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Calcium Iodate, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Folic Acid, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Dried Lactobacillus plantarum Fermentation Product, Dried Enterococcus faecium Fermentation Product, Dried Lactobacillus casei Fermentation Product, Dried Lactobacillus acidophilus Fermentation Product, Rosemary Extract, Green Tea Extract, Spearmint Extract. This is a naturally preserved product.
Ingredients in Blue Buffalo Large Breed Rocky Mountain Recipe
Unfortunately, a large percentage of studies show a correlation between DCM and grain-free foods. This is because many grain-free diets have replaced grains with suspect ingredients such as peas, potatoes, and legumes.
However, dogs fed grain-inclusive foods are also turning up with nutritional DCM. While it’s more commonly seen in dogs fed grain-free foods, the lack of grains itself is not necessarily to blame.
This is 100% a formulation issue that is complex and likely has many factors.
This information can be scary for pet owners who, understandably, aren’t sure how to choose safe and healthy dog food for their pets!
Here is what we do know:
A shiny coat and good stools are nice, but, it’s not an indication that the food is healthy or safe.
Many dogs with nutritional DCM show few signs at all until one day, they have a “heart attack” and die. They may even have been ‘healthy’ just moments before their death.
Some dogs with nutrition DCM do show signs. We’ve shared the signs of DCM in dogs below.
IMPORTANT: adding grains or taurine to a poorly formulated diet does not prevent or treat nutritional DCM.
Many common signs of nutritional DCM are easy to write off as ‘aging’ or ‘laziness’.
Dogs with nutritional DCM typically have normal taurine levels.
If you have been feeding a suspect diet, in particular a diet with a lot of pulse ingredients or legumes including peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, chickpeas, garbanzo beans, or lentils, it may be smart to see the veterinarian and request an echocardiogram. We also recommend changing your dogs diet.
What are the Signs of DCM in Dogs?
DCM is primarily a genetic disorder, and yes, Great Danes are prone to it.
That makes the nutritional aspect of DCM even more alarming: for dogs with a genetic risk, choosing the wrong diet effectively increases the chance that they may suffer from heart problems.
While many dogs with DCM (especially secondary DCM, caused by nutrition) will show no signs at all (and may even appear healthy and shiny), many others will show symptoms. These symptoms can be subtle and mistaken for other things.
Low energy (including being “lazy” or the assumption that it’s normal because they are “getting older”)
Poor muscle tone, including a loss of muscle tone or even atrophy
Anorexia and weight loss
Intolerance to heat or exercise
Panting
Pale gums
Coughing
Irregular heart rhythm
Weak pulse
Distended abdomen
Collapse
As a whole, nutritional DCM is considered “rare”. However it’s important to note that many cases of it are never officially diagnosed and documented. If an otherwise “healthy” dog dies randomly, it is most often considered to be caused by a heart attack.
These cases are not often included in nutritional DCM statistics. Most people understandably do not pay to have advanced diagnostics done on their deceased pet. Documented, verified cases of nutritional DCM have to meet certain guidelines.
(To see cases of nutritional DCM being documented in real time, as well as information regarding brands that were being fed at the time of diagnosis, visit the Diet Associated Dilated Cardiomyopathy page HERE: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1952593284998859)
What Dog Foods Do Not Cause DCM?
Because we don’t entirely yet understand why some foods cause DCM and not others (though, the picture is becoming more clear, as we’ve seen in the recent DCM study), it’s hard to say definitively whether one particular food will cause or not cause DCM.
There is one common factor that is worth noting, however.
Dogs being fed well-researched brands that have board-certified Veterinary Nutritionists formulating the diet are not turning up with Nutritional DCM.
As a matter of fact, time and time again, dogs with nutritional DCM are recovering when they are switched to a properly-formulated grain-inclusive diet.
Catching the disease early is a key element to treating N-DCM with a diet change.
What is a properly formulated, grain-inclusive diet?
It will meet the following guidelines:
They will have at least one Board-certified veterinary nutritionist formulating the diets (ideally several of them) and they should be employed by the company – not working as consultants
Those companies should also employ qualified staff focused on food science, toxicology, microbiology, and quality control
Have a commitment to peer-reviewed science and research, indicating that they are advancing our understanding of veterinary medicine, nutrition, disease, growth, and health; all knowledge that can be applied to nutritional formulations
Will do feeding trials, proving formulations and bioavailability in “real life”, not just on paper (which is the bare minimum)
Owned facilities, not co-packed
Strict quality-control procedures and guidelines
Traditional formulation containing meat meal, meat by-product meal, and traditional (well-researched) grains such as rice, oats, or corn
The primary brands that check all of these boxes include: Purina, Hill’s Science Diet, Royal Canin, Eukanuba, and Iam’s.
If you are unsure if your pet food meets these basic ethical guidelines, send them an email! Be a saavy consumer, watch for signs that they are intentionally misleading you.
For example:
“We have a team of nutrition professionals” (Note the avoidance of the word ‘we employ’, implying that their team is likely made up of consultants who may do nothing more than check a box)
“Our food is packed in a USDA facility” (Making a co-packing situation sound good; this company doesn’t own their facilities and has less control over the final product)
“We do our research and feeding trials in-house” (This often means that they aren’t willing or able to have their research peer-reviewed and critiqued and thus, anything goes…including the ‘results’)
Puppy knuckling is when a puppy’s feet appear crooked or bowed out. It often happens due to various factors, including incorrect nutrition, genetics, and care. Some information available about puppy knuckling is outdated, confusing, or misleading. We get it!
Rather than boring you with science and research data, I will lay this out in a quick-start guide-type format. It’s 2024, and we have new information about how to prevent knuckling in puppies and how to treat it, too!
Read on if you have a large or giant breed puppy, such as a Great Dane, showing signs of puppy knuckling.
Signs of Puppy Knuckling and “Bowing Out”
Your puppy may be knuckling over if you see the following signs:
Flat or weak feet
Turned out feet (which may also be genetic)
An ankle that bows over the foot
Ankles that shake or roll over the foot on soft surfaces
Feet and limbs that don’t look right
In the image below, you will see three puppies experiencing knuckling, from severe to mild. Mild knuckling in puppies can become severe or even permanent if left untreated.
How to Treat Puppy Knuckling
Here is our easy 3-step guide for treating puppy knuckling!
STEP ONE – SEE YOUR VETERINARIAN
STEP TWO – CHANGE YOUR FOOD
STEP THREE – CHANGE YOUR ROUTINE
Step One – See Your Veterinarian
Veterinarians attend school for many years to learn about companion animal health and wellness. They see hundreds of dogs weekly in a clinical setting and will know much more about the current science and research than any other resource you may find.
Many veterinarians are highly experienced in large and giant breed dogs and will give you the best advice.
Not only that, but if your puppy has crooked feet, your veterinarian needs to rule out other health conditions that may be similar or that may be contributing to growth disorders in your puppy:
Forget everything you hear in breed groups and from pet owners. An alarming amount of it is based on anecdotes, profit-driven marketing, and other nonsense. The correctly balanced puppy foods (listed below) are necessary to fix growth disorders.
Switch foods quickly. Do not add toppers or supplements, and keep training treats to a minimum. Getting your puppy onto 100% correctly balanced nutrition will be a key to success.
We dig deeper into the science with our posts linked below. But for this quick-start guide, here is a list of dog food to feed a knuckling puppy. These are readily available at Petsmart or on Chewy.com (which we’ve linked below for your convenience).
Check out THE GIANT DOG FOOD PROJECT to compare brands and values.
It is critically important that you do not overfeed your Great Dane puppy, especially if they are knuckling. Too much food is related to growth disorders. Encourage small, frequent meals.
Step Three – Change Your Routine
Large and giant breed puppies have delicate joints. Protect the soft cartilage and help your puppy strengthen their feet by avoiding hard, slick surfaces and encouraging movement on soft, varied terrain.
Here are some movement and exercise ideas for puppies that are knuckling or that have flat feet:
Explore a natural area with small rolling hills
Play in sand or gravel
Stand on couch cushions and gym mats
Sit on a grassy lawn or at a park and watch the world go by (also great for socialization)
Put runners and mats down on slick floors in your home. Discourage your puppy from jumping.
Trim nails weekly. We recommend a DREMEL. Keeping the nails short will help protect the joints and keep unnecessary pressure off of the toes.
Whale eye is NOT your dog looking like a whale, although that might be a simpler explanation. Whale eyes in dogs are just one of many parts of a complex web of dog behavior.
Whale eye in dogs is something that happens to a dog’s eyes when they are feeling threatened, feeling anxious or afraid, or for a variety of other reasons.
Whale eyes happen in a dog’s eye when the white part of the eye, called the sclera, becomes more visible. This happens when the dog’s third eyelid (nictitating membrane) partially covers the eye. Whale eye can also happen when a dog’s head is turned away from you, and you can see the whites of their eyes.
When a dog exhibits whale eye, it’s often a sign that they are feeling uncomfortable or threatened. It can also be a sign that a dog is about to bite, although not all dogs who show whale eye will bite.
WHY DOES WHALE EYE HAPPEN IN DOGS?
There are many reasons why a dog might exhibit whale eye.
Dogs communicate fear, stress, worry, or feelings of being upset or tense with their body language.
Dog body language can be tricky to figure out, but if humans educate themselves on what dog body language is trying to convey, they can identify whale eyes as well as other signals of fear or stress more easily.
COMMON REASONS YOUR DOG MAY BE SCARED OR TENSE
If you notice your dog feeling stressed out more often than relaxed, it’s time to evaluate the reasons why they may feel threatened.
Dogs fear a variety of different things, but some common triggers for a fearful dog include:
Other dogs
Other humans / strangers
A person they might not know well
The Veterinarian
A child who they don’t know / kids who are not respecting boundaries
Loud noises
New situations
The car
Many dogs will show signs of being stressed far before their owners will notice, so it is crucial to pay attention to your dog and their behavior to determine whether they are uncomfortable.
HOW DO I KNOW IF MY DOG IS SHOWING SIGNS OF BEING ANXIOUS?
WHY DOES WHALE EYE GIVE US SO MUCH INFORMATION ABOUT OUR DOG?
Whale eyes in dogs helps us to better understand the way in which a dog sees the world.
Whale eyes in dogs is a sign of many things, some of which may be stress related.
If your dog has whale eye, and you notice a ‘whale eye look’, you might notice the whites of his eyes are visible, and his third eyelid may be partially covering the eye. The dog’s head might be turned away from you, so you can see the whites of their eyes.
WHY DOES WHALE EYE IN DOGS MEAN THE DOG IS SCARED?
The reason that true whale eye happens in dogs is because the dog is paying attention in an extreme way, they are attentive to whatever is happening and the whites of his eyes have become extremely large and wide, making the colored part seem smaller. The dog’s attention is zeroed in on whatever it might be that they are nervous of.
The dog will most likely turn its head towards the current situation, or try to walk away. When the dog relaxes, the fearful whale eye will most likely go away.
SIDE EYE VS. WHALE EYE
Dogs with whale eyes often have a scared or worried expression.
Dogs with side eyes often have a predatory or aggressive expression.
It is important to be able to distinguish between the two, as they can mean very different things.
A PREDATORY STARE vs A FEARFUL STARE
A fearful stare is when a dog’s pupils are dilated, and they are trying to make themselves as small as possible. A predatory stare is when a dog’s pupils are constricted, and they are making themselves look as big as possible.
A fearful dog will have their ears back, possible closed mouth with lip licking, their tail between their legs, and they may be shaking. A predatory dog will have their ears up and forward, their mouth open with teeth showing, and their tail may be wagging.
HOW CAN YOU HELP YOUR DOG WHO IS DEMONSTRATING WHALE EYES?
Luckily, there are things we can do to treat anxiety in a dog. If you notice whale eyes or other signs of dog communication of anxiety, you can work on helping your pup with a few simple solutions.
FIND THE CAUSE OF THE DOG BEING NERVOUS
The first step is to find out what is causing your dog stress or anxiety.
Is it a particular person? Other dogs? The car? Once you have determined the trigger, you can begin working on a plan to help your dog feel more comfortable.
AVOID THE SITUATION THAT IS TRIGGERING YOUR PUP
If your dog is anxious around other dogs, try to avoid situations where he will be around them. If the trigger is the car, then don’t take him for car rides until you have worked on helping him feel more comfortable.
USE POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT
When your dog is not displaying signs of uncomfortability or anxiety, provide him with positive reinforcement in the form of treats, petting, or verbal praise. Using a treat or their favorite food, you can help your pup to understand that the situation is a positive one. This will help him to associate good things with the situation that is causing him stress.
There are many products on the market that can be added to your dog’s food or supplement regiment to help them remain calm.
Consider pet CBD for your fur baby, or speak to your veterinarian about a pet prescription that could help them with their worries.
CHANGE UP THEIR DIET
Diet impacts everything and gut health can make an impact on the way your dog is feeling.
If you think your dog may be experiencing fear and anxiety, switching up their diet to include more whole/raw foods could help their overall gut health.
Whale eye is a sign of fear or stress in dogs, and is often seen when a dog is feeling threatened.
By understanding the various reasons for whale eye and differentiating between them, we can help our dogs to feel more comfortable in situations that may cause them stress.
We can also avoid putting our dogs into situations that are known to trigger their anxiety or fear.
If you think your dog may be experiencing anxiety, there are many things you can do to help them feel more comfortable.
Most importantly, remember to be patient and understanding with your dog. They are not purposely trying to stress you out, and with a little love and patience, you can help them to overcome their anxiety.
Many dogs will show anxiety to their human with behavior signals. A frightened dog will have red flags over its entire body. But, humans often overlook these signals in their dogs because us humans don’t always know what to look for.
When dog owners become educated on what a stressed out dog looks like, they can solve conflicts with their dog before the conflict even begins.
So, it makes sense to become more in tune with dog body language and behavior so that you can understand what your dog is trying to tell you.
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WHAT ARE THE MOST COMMON STRESS SIGNALS IN DOGS
Although many dogs show their anxiety in stressful situations in different ways, most dogs will demonstrate these signals in some common behavior.
Sniffing the ground– A dog shows nerves when they can’t seem to escape a situation and starts sniffing the ground as a means to escape the current situation.
Whale eyes– A dog’s eyes will get big and round when they are stressed. The whites of their eyes will be more prominent as their pupils dilate.
Lip licking– When a dog licks their lips excessively, it’s a sure sign that they are stressed.
Shaking– A dog that is shaking or trembling is trying to release the built up anxiety they are feeling.
Panting– Dogs will start to pant when they are feeling anxious or stressed.
Head turning– A head turn is often a dogs way of attempting to remove their entire body from a situation. This dog is turning away in order to show peaceful intentions, but demonstrate to their social groups that they are uncomfortable with the current situation.
Freezing– When a dog is feeling scared or threatened, they may “freeze” in place as a survival mechanism.
Nose licking– Dogs will often lick their nose when they are unsure of a situation.
Tail tucking– A dog that is tucking its tail is feeling scared.
Play Bowing– A play bow can be a calming signal when a dog is around other dogs that it might not feel comfortable with. A play bow is used when a dog may try to show other dogs that it does not want to fight.
Walking Slowly / Slow Movements– Moving slowly can be a dogs way of showing that it is not a threat and does not want to fight.
All of these signals are your dog’s way of communicating with you that it is feeling overwhelmed, anxious, or stressed. As a responsible pet owner, it’s important to be able to recognize these signs so that you can help your furry friend feel more comfortable in stressful situations.
When a dog yawns, it might be trying to calm another dog that is getting too excited. Nose licking can also be a calming signal, and it’s often seen when two dogs are greeting each other. If a dog starts panting heavily, it might be a sign of stress or anxiety.
Lip licking can also be an anxious behavior, as the dog is trying to soothe itself by licking its own lips. Tail wagging can mean different things depending on the context. If the tail is held high and wagged stiffly, it may be a sign of aggression. However, if the tail is wagged loosely with a relaxed body, it usually indicates happiness.
Dogs also use eye contact to communicate. Their gaze can convey a range of emotions, from love and affection to fear and aggression. By understanding these common stress signals in dogs, we can better interpret their behavior and respond in a way that will help to keep them calm and comfortable.
COMMON STRESS TRIGGERS FOR DOGS
Dogs can have some unusual fears. Maybe your dog is afraid of the vacuum cleaner, or perhaps he’s terrified of going for car rides. But there are some more common triggers that can cause stress in dogs.
One of the most common triggers is changes in routine. If you usually take your dog for a walk in the morning, but one day you have to leave for work early and can’t take him, he may become anxious. Dogs can also be stressed by changes in their environment, such as a move to a new house or the arrival of a new baby in the family.
LOUD NOISES
Loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks, can also be stressful for dogs. You may notice your dog giving off more calming signals on the 4th of July than other normal and quieter days.
Unfortunately, you might notice your dog is afraid of people or kids. They might use signals like tail tucking or retreating when you have small kids nearby them, or they might bark when strangers walk by your house. Socialization is important for puppies, so if your dog didn’t have a lot of exposure to different people and situations when he was younger, he may be more fearful as an adult.
For some, it might be hard to pinpoint the exact cause of your dog’s fear. Maybe they are using dog calming signals more often than usual, but you can’t seem to figure out why. In these cases, it’s possible that your dog is just feeling stressed in general. Dogs can have bad days too!
If you notice your dog is displaying any of these common stress signals, try to remove him from the stressful situation if possible. Crate training is a fantastic way to help your dog remain calm, feel safe and secure, and reduce stress in general. If you can’t remove your dog from the situation, try to provide some distractions, like a Kong toy filled with peanut butter or dog treats.
And always remember to consult with your veterinarian if you think your dog may be suffering from anxiety or stress.
WHAT IS A CALMING SIGNAL IN DOGS?
Dog’s use calming signals to show that they are feeling stressed, anxious, or uncomfortable. Yawning, sniffing the ground, and lip licking are all examples of calming signals.
These signals are your dog’s way of communicating with you that it is feeling overwhelmed, anxious, or stressed. As a responsible pet owner, it’s important to be able to recognize a dog’s calming signals as they are many dog’s only communication system.
ARE THE USE OF CALMING SIGNALS IN DOGS A GOOD THING OR BAD THING?
When dogs use calming signals, the dog is attempting to show humans and other dogs that it is not a threat and does not want to fight. Play bowing is a good example of this, as the dog is essentially saying “I come in peace!”
While the use of calming signals is generally a good thing, it’s important to be aware that some dogs may use them excessively out of fear or anxiety.
When your dog sees an approaching dog and you notice lip licks, whole body shaking, or other dog calming signals that are implicative of fear, it is crucial that you take note of their anxiety of unfamiliar dogs before it turns into aggressive behaviors.
A DOG DISPLAYING CALMING SIGNALS WHEN IT FEELS UNCOMFORTABLE
Dogs communicate their feelings and moods through their body language. calming signals are one way that dogs do this. When a dog feels uncomfortable, they may use calming signals to try to defuse the situation and make themselves feel better.
Common calming signals include licking their lips, averting their gaze, and yawning. If you see a dog doing any of these things, it’s important to give them space and not try to force them to interact with you or other dogs. By respecting a dog’s calming signals, you can help to prevent potential aggressive situations from occurring.
WHAT TO DO IF YOU NOTICE A DOG DISPLAYING SIGNS OF STRESS
Dogs communicate their emotional state through a combination of facial expressions, body language, and vocalizations. When a dog is experiencing stress, they may display some or all of the following signs: rapid breathing, panting, drooling, yawning, lip licking, pinning their ears back, wide eyes, tense muscles, and a stiff posture. Dogs may also try to get away from the source of their stress by pacing, shaking off, or hiding.
If you notice your dog displaying any of these signs of stress, it’s important to take action to help them relax.
HAVE A LOOK AT YOUR DOG’S ENVIRONMENT
First, take a close look at their environment.
Are there any potential dangers that could be causing them to feel stressed? For example, is there another dog in the area that they don’t get along with? If so, try to remove your dog from the situation.
HOW ARE YOU INTERACTING WITH YOUR DOG?
Secondly, think about how you’re interacting with your dog. Are you being too forceful or demanding? Dogs can sometimes pick up on our own stress levels, so it’s important to remain calm and relaxed around them.
PROVIDE PLENTY OF REST AND RELAXATION TO DECOMPRESS FOR YOUR DOG
Finally, make sure your dog has plenty of opportunities to rest and relax in their own space. A tired dog is often a stressed dog, so provide them with a cozy bed and some quiet time each day. By taking these steps, you can help your furry friend stay calm and relaxed in even the most stressful situations.
WHY DO DOGS PANT WHEN THEY ARE STRESSED?
Just like a dog begins showing calming signals at the onset of other stressful situations, panting is one way that many dogs can try to relieve their stress.
Panting is a normal, physiological response that helps to regulate a dog’s body temperature. However, when a dog pants excessively, it can be a sign that they are feeling overheated or stressed.
If you notice your dog panting more than usual, take a close look at their environment and make sure they are not in a situation that is too hot or humid. If the temperature seems fine, then try to provide them with some calm, relaxing time to see if their panting subsides.
WAYS TO HELP PREVENT YOUR DOG FROM EXPERIENCING STRESS
Dogs are social animals that thrive when they’re part of a social group. However, potential conflict can arise when dogs meet, which is why it’s important to socialize your dog from an early age.
PUPPY SOCIALIZATION IS KEY FOR CANINE COMMUNICATION
Puppy socialization classes are a great way to introduce your dog to other dogs in a controlled setting, and they can also help you learn how to read your dog’s body language and prevent aggression.
Socializing older dogs is still possible, but it may take more effort. Attending dog parks or arranging playdates with friends’ dogs are good ways to help your dog socialize.
You can also try attending training classes together or going for walks in new places. In any social situation, it’s important to pay attention to your dog’s body language and be aware of potential signs of stress.
If you see any signs that your dog is uncomfortable, make sure to remove him from the situation and provide a calm environment for him to relax in. Remember, socializing your dog doesn’t just benefit him – it also helps you create a stronger bond and a better relationship with your furry friend.
HIRING A TRAINER TO HELP YOUR DOG
If you notice your dog gets anxiety when another dog approaches, they are making intense eye contact with your neighbor when they cross paths, or you are seeing sweaty paws when you have guests visit, it could be time to hire a dog trainer to help you navigate these signals.
Dog trainers who are qualified in behavior have the skills to help you understand what your dog is trying to communicate and how you can better manage the situation.
A professional trainer can also offer guidance on how to socialize your dog and provide helpful tips on preventative measures you can take to reduce stress in your dog’s life.
IS YOUR DOG DISPLAYING BEHAVIOR THAT SHOWS THEY ARE NERVOUS OR STRESSED?
All of this evidence points to the fact that we need to be very aware of our dogs’ stress levels and take steps to reduce them.
Dogs communicate their stress primarily through body language, so it’s important for us as their guardians to be able to read these signals. If you see your dog displaying any of the signs of stress listed above, it’s crucial to remove him from the situation immediately.
You can also help reduce your dog’s overall stress by providing plenty of exercise, training, and socialization.
If you are looking for the best dog chews recommended by vets, we’ve created a handy guide for you! Not all dog chews are created equal.
Some cause obstructions, others break teeth, and some have questionable quality. Vet-recommended dog treats and chews will always be safer for your pet, and more beneficial, too.
If you’re like most dog owners, you are always on the lookout for new and interesting ways to keep your pup entertained…but you want to keep them healthy, too, right?
In this post, we will cover:
The differences between dog chews that veterinarians will recommend and those that they won’t
Bones that are too hard and may chip teeth
Chews for aggressive chewers
Dental chews for dogs
Veterinary-recommended brands of dog chews and enrichment toys
Signs of a Quality Dog Chew
Chewing on bones is a natural, enriching, and satisfying behavior for dogs that helps to keep their teeth clean. You will notice that most dogs are very calm and happy when chewing on something!
Some dog chews, however, can be bad for your dog’s health. They may be a choking hazard or can result in broken teeth, obstructions in your dog’s stomach or intestines, or other health problems.
Unfortunately, the pet industry is huge and driven by a lot of marketing. Many companies are selling things that are not safe for your dog.
When choosing a vet-recommended dog chew, it’s important to look for signs of quality that will help you avoid these hazards.
VOHC Dental Health Label
The V.O.H.C. (Veterinary Oral Health Council) is an important organization that tests and certifies products for dental health.
If you see the VOHC label on a product, you can be sure that it is effective at reducing tartar and plaque buildup on teeth. Veterinarians highly recommend VOHC-labeled dental treats to help combat dental disease and promote healthy gums.
Dog Chew Materials
Dog chews come in a variety of materials including:
Natural bones
Animal products such as rawhide or bully sticks
Antlers and horns
Natural ingredients such as corn, wheat, or oats
Sheep, goat, or cow’s milk
Nylon and rubber
Biscuits and hard biscuits
Each type of dog chew has its own benefits and drawbacks, so it is important to do your research before choosing one for your dog.
Aggressive chewers, for example, should not be given treats that are easy to break down into large chunks, or treats that can cause them to crack their teeth.
Some chews are edible, while others are not. Rubber, nylon, and antlers are all non-edible, while rawhide, bones, bully sticks, and biscuits are edible.
There are pros and cons to both types of chews.
Edible chews are more appealing to dogs since they can be eaten. Most dogs will be more likely to chew on them, which is important for mental stimulation and keeping teeth clean.
Edible chews can pose a choking hazard or obstruction risk if they are not properly digested, and can also lead to weight gain if your dog consumes too many of them.
Non-edible chews, on the other hand, are not as appealing to dogs since they cannot be eaten. However, they may be less likely to cause obstructions or fractured teeth, and can often be reused again and again.
Safe Chews for Dog’s Teeth
Most veterinarians agree that no matter what kind of chew you choose for your dog, it should never be so hard as to cause teeth to crack, fracture, or wear down.
A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to dent the chew with your thumbnail. If you can’t, the chew may be unsafe for your dog.
We go into detail about each of our top picks below!
The best vet-recommended chews will stand up to aggressive chewers, be safe to eat (with supervision), will be less likely to damage teeth, are a tasty treat, and will be enriching and engaging to your dog.
Virbac C.E.T. Rawhide Chews
Not all rawhide dog chews are created equal. A lot of rawhide is imported and may not be up to the same safety standards.
Virbac C.E.T. Rawhide Chews are made with high-quality beef hide, which is more digestible than rawhide, and then treated with enzymes. They are approved by the V.O.H.C. (Veterinary Oral Health Council) for cleaning teeth.
We do not recommend any kind of rawhide-type chew for dogs who guard, hoard, or gulp. They must be encouraged to calmly gnaw and chew C.E.T. rawhides, never to swallow large pieces.
This will help strengthen their jaw muscles and provide oral health benefits. Unlike most other rawhide products, the Virbac C.E.T. is considered by veterinarians to be a safe chew for many dogs.
We do not recommend these chews for dogs who will swallow large chunks. These should be used by dogs who like the process of gnawing, not gulping.
Raw, slightly frozen turkey (or chicken) necks (with the meat on) can help clean your dog’s teeth. Dogs love them, too!
When choosing to feed ANY kind of raw food to your pet, you must be aware of the very real risk of bacterial contamination.
Raw turkey necks are not necessarily good for dogs who don’t typically eat raw food, and they must be offered with supervision to dogs who are also taught to crunch them up slowly. Good hygiene practices here are also a must!
It’s important to note that turkey necks are considered food and must be calculated as part of your dog’s diet and calorie or nutrient intake. Don’t overfeed. They are a treat to use sparingly.
Some veterinarians will recommend raw bones, some will not. Talk to your veterinarian! They see 100’s of pets every month and know what typically results in ER visits and digestive issues.
It’s no secret that we love West Paw chew toys for dogs, and this is one of my personal favorites!
The West Paw Qwizl is a great option for dogs who like to chew and play fetch. It’s made of durable rubber, so it will hold up to aggressive chewers and large dogs.
It’s also bouncy and fun, making it a fantastic and fun toy for interactive playtime. The Qwizl can be filled with treats or dog-safe peanut butter, which can make it even more appealing to dogs as they attempt to lick, gnaw, or chew the goodies out.
You can even use it as a bully stick holder!
The soft texture is less likely to cause tooth fractures and the whole thing is dishwasher-safe.
West Paw chews and dog toys are made in the USA and are backed by a 100% satisfaction guarantee. They are also non-toxic, safe for dogs, and eco-friendly. 10/10!
No dog chew blog would be complete without mention of the Kong Classic dog toy. It’s a vet-recommended chew toy that is perfect for dogs who like to chew and play fetch.
The Kong Classic is made of durable rubber and can be filled with treats, dog food, or peanut butter. It’s also dishwasher-safe.
Kongs are great for interactive playtime and can help keep puppies and dogs busy! We highly recommend them for crate training, puppy training, and teaching active dogs to settle in the home.
Choose the red version for average chewers and the black one for tough chewers and always choose the largest size possible for your breed/dog.
They were proven to help reduce plaque and tartar buildup on teeth, and dogs love them! Vet-recommended dog chews like Pro Plan Dental Chewz will keep your dog busy and contribute to good oral health, too.
As always, supervise your dog while they are enjoying these!
Whimzees are made of all-natural vegetarian ingredients and are also V.O.H.C.-approved. They come in fun shapes and sizes, and dogs love them!
Whimzees are a great way to keep your dog’s teeth clean and help reduce plaque and tartar buildup to keep your dog’s mouth fresh and healthy.
As an added bonus, they’re also low in fat and calories. Supervise your pet; if they get large chunks off, this may not be the dog chew for them. For giant breed dogs, these may not be large enough. You know your pet best.
BeneBones are synthetic nylon non-edible chew that is flavored with real food ingredients like chicken, bacon, and peanut butter.
They are durable and last longer than most natural bones and can be a good outlet for dogs who like to chew often.
However, they are not necessarily great for teeth (as they are not very soft) and can cause wear if used excessively. Keep usage to a minimum, and make sure to pick chews in a variety of different types to keep your dog busy and engaged.
Using the same type of dog chew each day (especially the nylon ones) is not a healthy habit and not vet-recommended, either.
Raw marrow bones are a single-ingredient natural product. Not all veterinarians approve of these, however, some do. Talk to your veterinarian before offering marrow bones to your dog.
Raw bones can be very messy, so if you decide to offer them, do so outside or on an easy-to-clean surface. They can also splinter, so it’s important to supervise your dog while they are chewing on them.
For Great Danes, we recommend long beef or bison marrow bones, offered frozen. Don’t allow your dog to have them so long that they eat a ton of marrow at once! This can cause digestive upset. Additionally, monitor your dog.
A dog who is using a marrow bone appropriately will be scraping their teeth on it, not trying to crunch it up. If your dog is doing more with the bone than trying to get the marrow out or scraping their teeth on the sides of it, it’s time to take it away.
Once your dog has emptied the bone of marrow, throw it out. At that point, the bone itself will have become more brittle and will be more likely to fracture.
Here is our list of dog chews that your dog should not have access to:
Mass market rawhide (not approved by the V.O.H.C.)
Horns or antlers, (such as elk antlers) that can crack teeth
Any chew that your dog aggressively chomps and easily breaks large pieces off of
Cooked bones of ANY type
Rope toys (great for tug, unsafe for chewing on!)
Smoked and meaty ‘dog bones’, including knuckles, (like the kind you might see in the grocery store)
Smoked pig ears, hooves, and similar type dog chews you might find at the farm store (can cause an obstruction)
Dog Chew Best Practices
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using V.O.H.C.-approved dental chews and dog treats. Most will say they can (or should) be offered daily.
When offering dog chews that might splinter or cause an obstruction (such as C.E.T. rawhides, raw turkey necks, bully sticks, or raw marrow bones), supervise your dog as much as possible!
Some non-edible chew toys are the safest option for crate training when you might not be actively supervising your dog, assuming they aren’t prone to shredding and gulping. Make sure to choose the correct size toy for your dog.
Never give chews, including ‘tough’ ones, to dogs that are prone to getting large pieces off or swallowing non-edible items such as rubber, nylon, or fabric.
Dog Dental Health
It’s also important to note that VOHC dental chews are NOT a replacement for daily teeth brushing and professional dental cleanings by your veterinarian.
Your dog’s gums or teeth may wear down unevenly if they are offered too many of the same kind of chew or if they favor one side. This is especially true for aggressive chewers!
Encourage variety and different textures as much as possible when offering dental treats or other dog bones.
This question requires a blog post just on its own, but it’s important to touch on!
Some dogs become very possessive and even aggressive when it comes to their food, especially bones and high-value treats. This is a survival instinct that stems back to the days when dogs were wild!
Signs that your dog is resource-guarding and insecure include:
Ears pinned
Stiffness
Hovering/covering it up
Burying it
Low growls
Shaking when you approach
Belly-up posture
Snarls, snaps, and bites
Dogs in the wild had to protect their food from other animals, or they would simply starve to death. If your dog is showing signs of fear or aggression while chewing on a bone, it’s important that you understand why it’s happening.
It has absolutely nothing to do with dominance or ‘alpha’ behavior. As a matter of fact, resource guarding is a sign of insecurity.
The worst thing you can do is take bones or treats, hover, pester, annoy, scold, hit, or punish your dog for guarding its chew toy.
Because it is such a dangerous behavior, it’s important to monitor the interactions that you and especially your children have with a dog who is prone to this.
To begin eliminating it, prevent the behavior by not provoking it in the first place. Give your dog a safe, quiet space to work on their chew, and respect their space so they can do so in peace.
Never allow children to mess with your dog’s bone, food, crate, toys, or bedding, especially while they are actively using those things!
Over time, you can reduce the behavior and change your dog’s mental state by proving to your dog that when you approach, GOOD things happen! Calmly walk by with a gentle, non-threatening posture, drop a bite of chicken, and leave.
After a few repetitions, your dog will begin to feel less stressed that you are about to take their valuable dog treats. With time, your dog will be happy to see you near its bone and will no longer feel insecure, making the whole process safer and less stressful for all.
Did you know that your Great Dane may be missing out on important nutrition that could reduce their risk of experiencing bloat? If you are looking for the best nutrition to prevent bloat in dogs, this post is it. We’re looking at the actual science and research to help ensure that you and your Great Dane are happy, healthy, and stress-free!
There are two things your Great Dane needs in their diet if you want to reduce their chance of GDV Bloat.
Bloat is the #1 killer of Great Danes. It can happen suddenly when you least expect it. Bloat in giant breed dogs is painful, traumatic, and often results in death.
Let’s dig in…
What is Bloat in Dogs?
First, you have to understand what bloat is. I’ll keep this short.
Bloat is when the stomach fills up with gas, fluid, or air. Left untreated, the stomach can then flip over on itself. This is called torsion. Torsion is deadly.
37% of Great Danes might experience bloat in their lifetime.
RUN, don’t walk, to your nearest emergency veterinarian if you see any of these signs of bloat in your dog:
Bloated stomach
Distress including pacing, crying, whining, head hanging
Foaming at the mouth or excessive drool
Attempting to vomit (but may be unable to)
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Two Things Your Great Dane Needs in Their Diet to Prevent Bloat
I mentioned there were two things you can add to your Great Danes’ diet right now to reduce their risk of experiencing bloat. Here they are:
A kibble with meat meal or meat by-product meal as a primary ingredient
Canned or fresh foods
I’m going to dig into BOTH of these in depth below, but here is the scientific study I am referencing:
“Conversely, feeding a dry food containing a rendered meat-and-bone meal decreased risk by 53 percent in comparison with the overall risk for the dogs in the study. Mixing table food or canned food into dry food also decreased the risk of bloat.
During the past 30 years there has been a 1,500 percent increase in the incidence of bloat, and this has coincided with the increased feeding of dry dog foods.“
Meat meal and meat by-product meal are GOOD in kibble! Reduced bloat risk aside, let’s talk a bit more about why.
Fresh meat or fresh deboned meats (not meat meals, in other words) are 70% water. This makes them heavy before cooking, so they show up on top of the ingredients list, but not after.
Just imagine what happens to fresh meat when it’s extruded into kibble! Only 30% of it will be left, even if your kibble brand says ‘meat is the first ingredient‘.
Yikes!
Meat meal and meat by-product meals are rendered and dehydrated before they go into the kibble. At just 10% water, that means your kibble will contain a LOT more actual meat and meat-based nutrition!
Not only that, but unlike fresh meat, meat meals (including those made with by-products) contain organ meat, cartilage, bone, and skin which are highly nutritious and species-appropriate.
No wonder meat meals reduce the risk of bloat!
If your kibble brand is mostly ‘fresh meat’, it’s time to find something better.
What dog food brands reduce the risk of bloat?
While no correlation between specific dog food brands has ever been made when it comes to bloat in Great Danes, the information we’ve learned about meat meals can certainly help point us in the right direction.
The second important thing mentioned in the Tufts University Bloat Study was that canned or fresh foods may reduce the risk of bloat!
What does this mean? Your dog gets a TASTY topper on their food, and you can feel good knowing that you are not just feeding a dry kibble (which is correlated with an increased risk of bloat).
You don’t need expensive, fancy ‘toppers’ from the natural pet food store. As a matter of fact, most of those are, expensive, unbalanced and a waste of money. We have much better ideas for this, including helpful links below!
When choosing unbalanced toppers of any kind, including table scraps, meat, goat milk, eggs, treats, or incomplete raw blends, they must be less than 5% of the overall intake.
Encourage SLOW eating! Toppers may be fun and enticing, but fast eating increases bloat risk. Use puzzle feeders (like this one on Amazon) to slow your pup down.
The Best Canned Foods for Great Danes
I personally use and love Purina ONE canned food, because it’s economical and full of meat! Depending on your budget, you can offer a spoonful or an entire can. Anything is likely to be better than nothing!
Address poor gut health, nutritional deficiencies, and the gut microbiome by choosing a quality well-formulated diet and sticking with it. Poor gut health is a major risk factor for bloat.
I have a tripod Great Dane. If you are facing amputation, or are adopting a new pet and need information on how to care for a three legged dog, you’ve come to the right place.
Dogs on three legs may require a little extra care, but with some love and patience, they can be just as happy and healthy as any other pup!
Ready to hear about my mistakes and learn how to care for a three legged dog?
How much exercise can a dog on three legs do?
What is the best nutrition for tripod dogs?
Important considerations for the health of a three-legged pup
How to get through the amputation process
and more!
Matilda’s Story
Matilda is a Great Dane (possibly a mix, we aren’t sure!) whose breeder was keeping her for breeding purposes. At some point around 3 months of age, she was hit by a car.
The breeder took her to the veterinarian and essentially left her there. Matilda suffered for days with a shattered limb while waiting for the law to say that she had been abandoned.
As soon as they could, the veterinarian was able to perform surgery and amputate her leg. Had they been able to operate sooner, the leg might have been saved.
I adopted her when she was 5 months old. At the time she was gangly, weak, and had flat feet and downed pasterns.
She’s now a thriving, active, happy 95 lb. girl. At age 5 she is still outrunning many dogs!
Reasons for Dog Amputation
Some dogs have angular limb deformities or severe injuries that warrant an amputation. There are times when amputation is the most humane choice, compared to months of orthopedic surgery, screws, plates, and rehabilitation.
Other dogs have osteosarcoma, an aggressive bone cancer that commonly affects the legs. In these cases, amputation is often recommended to control the spread of the disease and may buy a dog months or years of life.
For dogs with advanced osteosarcoma, veterinarians may suggest alternatives. If your veterinarian suggests humane euthanasia, you might seek a second opinion. However, this opinion is often made in the interest of choosing the most ethical thing for the dog.
Dogs that are overweight, in advanced stages of cancer, or who have other orthopedic issues (such as hip dysplasia) aren’t always good candidates for amputation, unfortunately.
The Amputation Process & Healing
Lucky for me, Matilda came to me as a tripaw and was already healed. However, I had been through the amputation process with our little dog Jackson, and the rules are the same. I’ve been there!
It’s really, REALLY hard to drop a dog off at the veterinarian for amputation! This process can be emotional and heartbreaking. Hang in there and know that you are making the best decision for your pet.
By this point, your veterinarian will have performed an intensive health screening including blood work and possibly an echocardiogram to make sure that your dog is healthy enough for surgical limb amputation.
While your dog is going through surgery to remove its injured or cancerous leg, make sure to prepare things at home. Having ice packs as well as heat packs available is key.
Put runners down all over so your pup does not slip around and cause further injury. Plan to stay home and even sleep next to your pup for at least the first week.
Make sure your veterinarian has prescribed adequate pain management for your dog to go home with; if your dog is shaking, drooling, panting, or aggressive, call your veterinarian.
If you have another pet, make sure to keep them away from the surgical area when you first get home. It is best to confine your tripawd to a small area with easy access to their food, water, and bathroom.
Do not let your dog run too much. This can cause hematomas and make healing take much longer. You can help your amputee dog recover quickly by limiting movement and following your veterinarian’s orders.
I recommend keeping your dog on a leash and using a harness with a handle (such as the Petsafe Mobility Harness) for those first days working on balance and mobility.
Dogs adapt amazingly well and most vets find those canine patients typically bounce back very quickly.
Tripod Dog Exercise
Keeping your tripod fit is key to maintaining their health and wellness!
Of course, you will want to avoid high-impact activities and focus on rebuilding muscle mass in the remaining limbs.
Protect your dog’s joints by avoiding hard and slick surfaces, and keep your dog’s body weight on the lean side of things.
Three-legged Dog Weight & Health
It is very important for all animals, but especially those with chronic health conditions, to maintain a healthy weight.
Dogs that are overweight are at risk for developing orthopedic problems, such as arthritis and joint pain. They are also more likely to suffer from respiratory issues and have a shorter life span.
Three-legged dogs that are overweight will struggle to move efficiently, as they have more weight to throw around. Ask your veterinarian if your dog needs to lose weight; tripods must be kept lean.
The best way to keep your tripod dog lean is to control food intake and make sure he gets plenty of low-impact exercise such as swimming or being able to play freely on soft, varied terrain.
Nail Trims & Joint Care
Overgrown nails on dogs can cause a lot of pain. It is critically important that you keep your tripod dog’s nails short, round, and off the ground.
If your dog’s nails are overgrown, you will need to take him to the groomer or veterinarian for a professional nail trim. It is best to get this done every 1-2 weeks.
Nutrition for a Three-Legged Pet
Tripod dogs, especially giant breed ones can burn a LOT of calories just moving about. Having quality nutrition and the correct balance of protein, fat, and amino acids is key.
Consider a raw diet, formulated with the help of a DACVN (board certified Veterinary Nutritionist) OR choose a research-backed kibble such as Pro Plan, Royal Canin, or Hill’s Science Diet.
Contrary to popular belief, most ‘holistic’ dog food brands are not healthier and do not actually have better ingredients. A lot of ingredient lists that you see have been doctored for marketing purposes, yikes! These brands lack research and qualified development and formulation staff.
As a matter of fact, the wrong kibble can actually cause your dog to have nutritional deficiency leading to low energy, poor muscle tone, or heart problems.
All of these things are especially devastating to tripod dogs.
Life with a three-legged dog is almost like a life with any other dog, with a few accommodations.
I see it this way.
Do NOT disable your ‘disabled’ dog. Tripod dogs can run, play, and enjoy life just like any other.
Let your dog be a dog! Amputee animals generally adapt well and with very little effort.
Matilda (our three-legged Great Dane) regularly goes to the dog park, splashes in the water, runs in the field, and plays with other dogs! Our small tripod dog Jackson is athletic, agile, and fast.
Three-legged pets adapt incredibly well, and the last thing you want to do is to believe that they are not capable of being dogs and doing fun dog things!
The Best Harnesses for Three-Legged Dogs
In general, harnesses are restrictive to dogs, especially those with front-limb amputations.
They have a place, however, if you need something with a handle to help lift your dog up and over things. For this I recommend the Pet Safe Mobility Harness or a RuffWear 3-strap model such as the Flagline or Webmaster.
Hot take: Unless needed for support, do NOT use a harness of any kind on your tripod dog!
It’s best for joint health that they can move their remaining front limbs and shoulders without any obstruction at all. All harnesses are obstructive in some way.
For dogs that move well without support, I recommend a wide, flat collar and a long loose leash.
After that, I encourage you to look into modern positive E-Collar training so that your dog can be off-leash as much as possible.
Most dogs respond well to positive reinforcement training with a modern remote collar and enjoy the freedom of movement that they cannot have otherwise. This is an incredibly gentle and positive tool that is often misunderstood!
Matilda wearing a blue Ruffwear Webmaster Harness when she was young and still building strength.
Area Rugs & Runners
Preventing slips and falls is key to protecting your three-legged dogs remaining limbs.
As your tripod dog gets used to having three legs, she may be a little wobbly at first and require assistance.
To make things easier on him (and you), put area rugs and runners down in strategic places around your house. This will help your pup get traction following a leg amputation and avoid any unnecessary falls.
As an added benefit, carpet runners and other non-slick, soft surfaces will help protect joint health! The last thing you want is for your dog to damage a remaining leg.
Matilda and her tripod brother, Jackson, the day after they met.
Stairs
Most three legged dogs navigate steps just fine, however, in general, you want to avoid most of them. If your dog is afraid of stairs, use a Ruffwear Webmaster harness and lots of praise and treats.
Encourage slow movement up and down steps. Protect your tripod’s remaining limbs by helping them carefully navigate each step.
Ideally, walks should be on soft terrain such as grass, sand, and gravel, NOT pavement or sidewalks (which are hard on the joints).
Give your dog as much freedom to move as possible: avoid the use of head collars, prong collars, and harnesses that restrict movement. Use a LONG leash instead, or as above, train your dog to be off-leash with a modern E-Collar.
Tripods, especially large ones, MUST move faster than other dogs to keep up their momentum; if they are pulling on the leash, you probably need to move faster and keep up.
Physical Therapy and Rehabilitation
Your vet will have to provide a referral to a veterinary physical therapist (PT).
A veterinary rehabilitation therapist can help your pup regain muscle mass and range of motion as your tripod dog resumes life after surgery.
They will also be able to provide you with exercises to do at home in between appointments.
Swimming therapy and an underwater treadmill, paired with massage can be an excellent program for three-legged dogs!
Talk to your PT and your veterinarian. Some dogs also benefit from acupuncture, laser therapy, and chiropractic treatments.
Caring for a three-legged dog is not as difficult as it may seem. With the proper care and attention, your tripod dog can live a long and happy life!
Are you facing amputation, or living with a tripod? Share your story below!
Today I’m sharing 5 great reasons to have your dog’s teeth cleaned by a veterinarian!
Dental health is important for both humans and dogs. Just like us, dogs can suffer from oral diseases, tooth decay, and gum disease if their teeth aren’t cleaned on a regular basis.
The American Veterinary Dental College recommends that all dogs have professional teeth cleaning at least once a year.
I’ve also just been through this with 3 dogs (yes, three!) and have some tips and advice to share.
It’s normal to feel nervous about putting your dog under anesthesia, especially when you don’t know what to expect. I’m going to clear that all up for you today!
How Often Should I have my Dog’s Teeth Cleaned by a Veterinarian?
The short answer is: it depends. Factors affecting how often your dog needs a teeth cleaning include their age, breed, and overall oral health.
Your veterinarian can help you determine how often your individual dog should have a professional dental cleaning.
Some dogs require more frequent cleanings than others, even if you are diligent about brushing at home!
Your dog’s teeth may look clean and healthy on the surface, but there could be problems lurking below the gum line.
A big part of a veterinarian’s job is to prevent problems before they start, and one way to do that is by taking dental x-rays.
These are done as part of the dental cleaning, while the dog is sedated.
Dental x-rays allow your veterinarian to clearly picture your dog’s teeth, gums, and the bones that support them. This is important because many dental problems (such as tooth decay or infection) can’t be seen with the naked eye.
If your veterinarian finds anything concerning on the x-ray, they will call you to approve additional treatments (while your dog is still under anesthesia).
In my case, one of my three dogs had decay below the gum line in one tooth. Brushing would never have caught it, and it wasn’t visible to the naked eye.
I approved a tooth extraction over the phone, which added about $75 to my total expense for the procedure.
Dental disease is one of the most common diseases in dogs, affecting over 80% of dogs by the time they’re three years old.
That’s why it’s so important to have your dog’s teeth cleaned on a regular basis – to prevent problems before they start, and to catch any early signs of dental disease.
A professional teeth cleaning will remove tartar and plaque above and below the gum line, which you can’t do.
Diseased teeth in your dog’s mouth can lead to serious health problems, including infection, tooth loss, and even damage to the heart, liver, and kidneys.
That’s why it’s so important to have your dog’s teeth cleaned on a regular basis – not only for their dental health but for their overall health as well.
If your dog has dental disease, they’re likely in a lot of pain. Dogs hide their pain well, and it’s easy to miss the subtle signs.
A professional teeth cleaning will relieve that pain and help your dog feel (and act) normal again.
My dog that had to have his tooth pulled had become growly and noisy when being petted by strangers. This is not like him, he loves people! He wasn’t being aggressive, he was talking a lot, though.
Following his dental procedure, that behavior went away. He’s back to being his sweet, loving self.
Your dog may be in intense pain, but has no way to tell you. It can be easy to miss!
As an added bonus, a veterinary dental cleaning = fresh breath!
No more stinky dog breath caused by slimy, gunky teeth. This is good for you and your dog (who no doubt does not want to live with that nasty bacteria stinking up their mouth every day).
Veterinary Teeth Cleaning vs. Sedation-Free Cleanings
Many boutique pet stores and dog training facilities offer clinics where you can have your dog’s teeth cleaned without sedation.
I have never done this, but I can see how it would be appealing – less expensive and no anesthesia risks.
However, from what I’ve been told by my veterinarian (and many others), these types of cleanings are not as thorough and may even be bad for your dog’s dental health!
Not to mention, they are more stressful for your dog as they are awake and aware of what is happening. This type of cleaning cannot address hidden decay or bacteria below the gum line, either.
Do veterinarians recommend sedation-free teeth cleaning?
Veterinarians do not recommend sedation-free teeth cleaning.
Having your dog’s teeth cleaned under anesthesia will be MUCH less traumatic for your dog, even though ‘sedation-free dentistry’ is marketed as a ‘gentle’ alternative that sounds appealing to nervous dog owners.
Think about this for a moment: many humans require sedation for even basic dental work. We are often nervous about dental work, even though we have much more control over the process and our understanding of it than dogs do!
To put this bluntly, sedation-free dental cleanings for your pet’s teeth are NOT necessarily gentle, humane, or stress-free. Even if they were, they only address the plaque and tartar on the visible part of the tooth, not what is below the gum line. Periodontal disease may very well still be a major problem for your dog.
This is all, of course, assuming that your dog is an ideal candidate (is in good health and does not have a fractured tooth or excessive decay) and doesn’t wiggle, struggle, or stress during the procedure.
Even if your dog is a perfect candidate, after you pay $300 to have your dog’s teeth cleaned without anesthesia, your dog will still have bacteria lurking, ready to grow, and continuing to cause bad breath and decay.
Yikes.
Many dogs require more care to remove tartar build-up and dental plaque than can be provided by anesthesia-free dentistry, costing you more in the long run for proper dental care.
Once you’ve decided to get a dental cleaning for your dog, it’s time to prepare! Knowing what to expect will make the process much smoother and less stressful for both of you.
Dog Dental Surgery Pre-Op
It is very important that your veterinarian do a physical exam and bloodwork prior to dental surgery.
This is necessary to check for any underlying medical conditions that could cause problems during anesthesia. Do not skimp on blood work!
Your veterinarian will also perform a quick, easy dental examination to assess your dog’s overall dental health and to make sure that there are no obvious problems that need to be addressed prior to anesthesia.
Contrary to popular belief, old age does not mean that a dog shouldn’t have anesthesia! Many times, the benefits of regular dental cleanings far outweigh any risks associated with general anesthesia.
Your veterinarian will provide you with information regarding their protocols. Most of the time, they will request that your dog has no food for a period of time prior to the professional cleaning.
This is because anesthesia can cause vomiting, and they want to avoid any risk of your dog aspirating (breathing in) food or water.
Your veterinarian or a technician will also go over the risks and benefits of the procedure with you. You will leave your pet with the veterinarian for the procedure, and depending on how your veterinary clinic operates your pet will likely be with them for most of the day.
When it’s time for your dog to undergo the procedure, the veterinarian will perform a last-minute pre-op exam and review notes about your dog.
Veterinary technicians will monitor your pet’s vital signs and following x-rays, the veterinarian (or a highly trained technician) will perform the dental cleaning. They will review the x-rays, and look for signs of periodontal disease and fractured teeth. They will also remove plaque and tartar and polish the teeth.
If extractions are needed, the veterinarian will perform those as well as look for any other dental issues that might need to be addressed.
Following dental procedures, most dogs need several hours to move the anesthesia out of their system.
They may be nauseous, tired, or unstable when you first get home. While your pet is recovering it is helpful to keep them calm and follow the instructions that your veterinarian gave you for medications, food, water, and rest.
Most pets are up and moving fairly quickly. By the next day, you’d never know they’d had a professional dental cleaning (other than their shiny, clean, beautiful new teeth)!
If your dog had one or more teeth removed, it may have stitches and will have to be on a soft diet for at least 7 days. Your veterinarian may also have prescribed antibiotics and pain medication.
Most veterinarians will recommend a follow-up visit, in this case, to make sure that everything healed up correctly.
They will also discuss best practices for home care, including how to prevent periodontal pockets and the buildup of plaque and tartar, so that your investment in dental cleaning pays off.
It is important to brush your dog’s teeth regularly, just like you brush your own!
Bad breath is just one sign of poor dog dental care, not to mention tartar buildup. Most pet owners, unfortunately, don’t spend enough time on this important aspect of pet health and their dog’s well-being.
So how should you take care of your dog’s teeth?
You can use a special dog toothbrush and toothpaste, or there are even finger brushes that you can slip over your finger to help make the process easier.
Most dogs are receptive to this process, but if your dog isn’t, we’ve included some training tips below.
There are a few things to keep in mind when brushing your dog’s teeth:
-Start slowly and build up to longer brushing sessions.
-Be gentle! There is no need to force or scold your dog.
-Use round, circular motions and try to give attention to each tooth.
-Make it a positive experience by using lots of calm, loving praise.
-Be gentle with your dog’s mouth.
If you’re not sure how to get started or have a resistant dog, your veterinarian and a great dog trainer can show you how to brush your dog’s teeth properly.
PRO TIP: when addressing puppy biting with your young dog, never use harsh handling techniques such as tapping, pinching, hitting, thumbing, or gagging. These dated training methods encourage puppies to resist having hands near their mouths, which you need to be able to do for safety, exams, and good dental health!
For some dogs that are particularly prone to issues with oral health, a veterinary dental diet can go a long way toward keeping their mouth healthy.
These diets are specially formulated to help reduce tartar buildup and keep your dog’s teeth healthy. They typically require a prescription. Here are some great examples of dental diets:
In addition to a good diet, and regular dental cleanings, there are many different types of dental chews available that can help reduce plaque and tartar.
Always supervise your dog when offering dental chews. Do not offer them to dogs that chew quickly and swallow large pieces. Additionally, do not offer chews to dogs that are too small or too large for their size.
Look for dental treats that come with the V.O.H.C. seal of approval! Here are some popular options:
Never use human toothpaste to clean your dog’s teeth. Human toothpaste often contains xylitol, which is toxic and deadly to dogs. Not only that, the mint flavor may be off-putting to your dog.
Dog toothpaste typically comes in pet-friendly flavors such as pork or chicken, and should be approved by the V.O.H.C. (this information should be on the package).
They will typically be formulated with enzymes and cleaners that target the kind of gunk and tartar buildup that dogs are most prone to.
If you have a puppy, practice a gentle oral exam daily so that your puppy gets used to it. As before, never use harsh handling techniques which can build resistance to the process!
Brushing your dog’s teeth should be part of your routine, several times a week. Daily is ideal, but we all know how tricky that can be (especially if you have multiple dogs!).
Chews and an appropriate diet can really help prevent tartar accumulation, however, regular veterinary dental cleanings (with anesthesia) and a thorough oral exam should still be performed yearly.
Do you have any more questions about periodontal disease and the process of dental cleaning using general anesthesia?
Leave a comment below! We also recommend Ask a Veterinarian on Facebook, check them out.
Are you thinking about breeding a Great Dane or purchasing a puppy? We’ve put together a fantastic post today with a ton of information about what to look for in a breeder, and what testing should be done.
There are four tests recommended by the Great Dane Club of America. These tests should be completed on both the dam and the sire prior to breeding, and the dog being tested should pass all of these with good or excellent results.
The four tests are heart, hips, eyes, and thyroid. It is unethical to skip any one of these tests for any reason.
What Health Tests do Great Danes Need For Breeding?
Heart Echocardiogram
The heart should be evaluated with an echocardiogram prior to breeding to rule out heart disease and congenital heart defects.
This is a non-invasive test that will give the veterinarian and a board-certified veterinary cardiologist a good idea of the size and function of the heart.
Cardiac screening is one of the most important tests a breeder can do for the health of the puppies and the dogs being bred. A healthy heart is absolutely necessary for a Dam experiencing pregnancy and whelping, and for the stud, too!
Not only is this helpful for the health of the dogs being bred, but the test results can help rule out DCM (Dilated Cardiomyopathy), heart murmurs, and other genetic or environmental heart problems seen in Great Danes.
Heart disease is a top killer of Great Danes.
Hips X-Ray
There are two acceptable forms of hip testing, which can help rule out hip dysplasia. PennHip (which is more comprehensive) and OFA Hips.
Both of these tests are done by x-raying the dog’s hips and then submitting the x-rays to a board-certified veterinary radiologist for interpretation. Anesthesia may be required.
The radiologists will examine the images of dogs’ hips and rate them fair, good, excellent, or normal.
The results of these tests will be given as a “hip score.”
OFA Hip tests should not be completed in Great Danes prior to age 2. Some breeders choose PennHIP testing, as it will provide preliminary results (prior to age 2) that can be helpful in determining the course of a breeding program.
Great Danes should NEVER be bred prior to age 2, and the final hip results that count towards a CHIC # (see below) cannot be completed until after age 2.
Hip dysplasia is a painful condition that has many environmental factors, but can also be genetic.
Dogs with a genetic link to hip dysplasia are more likely to suffer from environmental factors (such as poor nutrition) that affect the hips and elbows.
Eyes Examination
An eye exam should be performed by a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist prior to breeding.
This is a non-invasive test that will evaluate the health of the eyes and rule out any genetic eye problems.
A quick look of the eyes by a veterinarian is not a proper OFA Eye Certification. The dog must be seen by the ophthalmologist and undergo a series of tests.
Thyroid Testing
The thyroid should be evaluated with a blood test prior to breeding. This is a simple blood test that will assess the function of the thyroid gland and check the levels of thyroid hormone in the blood.
Thyroid disease is relatively common in Great Danes and can cause a variety of health problems. It can also be genetic and should not be passed on to puppies.
Thyroid testing is a simple, inexpensive health test that can go a long way toward reducing the genetic incidence of the disease.
Genetic Screening for Great Danes
In addition to basic OFA health testing mentioned above, diligent breeders should also be focused on the pedigree and eliminating common genetic disorders such as DCM, cancer, entropion, aggression, bloat, wobblers, blood clotting disorders, and degenerative disease.
If a dog is bred without the breeder being aware of the genes carrying certain diseases into the offspring, there is a much higher chance that the puppies will be affected.
There are genetic tests available to rule many common disorders out, however, a deep dive into the health and genetics of the pedigree in a breeding program can be insightful as well!
Color testing is especially important for breeders who want to avoid the accidental creation of double-merle Great Dane puppies.
Double Merle Great Danes are often born deaf, blind, or both. They are also at a higher risk for other health issues. Color testing can eliminate the chance of this happening.
Of course, there are many other diseases and conditions that can be passed onto puppies. For this reason, good old-fashioned pedigree research is key.
This is a time-consuming but important task for any breeder. Reducing the chance of health conditions can ensure that the dogs produced are able to live a long and healthy life.
Knowing the health history not only of the parents but of the grandparents, great-grandparents, and even further back can offer a pretty good idea of what health concerns may be lurking!
Some common congenital problems that may be seen in a study of the pedigree include Von Willebrand’s Disease, wobblers, Addison’s disease, and dilated cardiomyopathy among others.
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What is OFA?
OFA stands for the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals.
It is a non-profit organization that was founded in 1966 with the goal of reducing crippling hip dysplasia in dogs. Since that time, it has grown to include health testing recommendations for other genetic disorders, too.
The OFA offers health screening and certification services for a variety of conditions in many different breeds of dogs, in addition to a public database for breeders to share the results.
When responsible breeders complete the recommended health tests, they can log the results into the searchable OFA database for others to find.
A proper OFA exam is not the same as a “vet check!”
OFA health tests have specific practices and additional paperwork outlined for each. A veterinarian will be able to direct you towards booking the correct appointments.
Some veterinarians will offer OFA Clinics at AKC Dog Shows to make it easier for breeders to book and complete appointments.
A CHIC number is awarded todogs that have OFA certification for all of the recommended or required health tests.
Some health tests (such as cardiac screening) may need to be repeated yearly or prior to breeding, depending on how much time has passed and how dedicated the breeder is.
It’s important to note that a CHIC number can still be awarded, even if the dog did not pass the health screenings.
Make sure to look at the results of the registered health tests before deciding on the breeder you want to work with.
The CHIC number aims to ensure that at minimum, breeders are obtaining full health testing for their dogs.
A CHIC # paired with outstanding test results is a badge of honor.
We recommend supporting ethical breeders who are wanting to eliminate health issues in the pedigree through diligent health testing and by obtaining CHIC #’s for their dogs.
It’s easy for breeders to make health claims about their puppies based on anecdotal evidence, but having actual test results speak volumes.
Fully health-tested dogs are much less likely to pass painful or deadly disorders and conditions onto puppies.
Because Great Danes are a giant breed dog, health testing is even more important!
The lifespan of a Great Dane is reduced by genetic disorders.
Good breeders are working to turn those statistics around.
Health Test Excuses
Some breeders will make excuses for why their dogs are missing health tests.
For example, they may say that hip, heart, or eye testing is unreliable and puppies may get the disease even if the parents were fully tested, so it’s pointless.
Or they will tell you that their dogs have a long health history with no problems and don’t need more tests.
Worst of all, they will tell you that they don’t have access to proper testing because OFA veterinary clinics are too far of a drive.
If we dig deeper into that statement, what we are hearing is that the breeder may not have quick access to quality veterinary care for the dogs being bred in the first place. That’s unfair and potentially deadly to the Dam and the puppies.
Many show breeders will travel several states over to prove their dogs in a show ring. A 2-4 hour drive to find an OFA veterinarian should not be a barrier for anybody who wants to ethically breed dogs.
In our honest opinion, there is no legitimate excuse. Exceptional breeders who care about the breed will fully OFA test their breeding stock prior to breeding. It’s that simple.
Great Dane laying down outdoors next to her puppy.
Backyard Breeding
Many backyard breeders are friendly and have beautiful websites and cute puppies. However, don’t be fooled!
If a breeder claims to have health certifications and ‘genetic screening’ results but doesn’t have any specific test names or numbers to match up with those claims, they are likely not being truthful.
Remember, a veterinary check or EMBARK study is NOT health testing!
In order to verify the validity of a breeder’s health claims, you should always look up their dog’s test results on the OFA website.
The breeder’s kennel name, the dog’s registered name, or their registration number should be all that is needed.
If they are missing tests (heart, hips, eyes, thyroid), have poor or fair test results, or aren’t registered at all, RUN! This is not a breeder you should support.
How Much Does it Cost to Health Test a Dog For Breeding?
The cost of health testing a Great Dane for breeding purposes can range from $500-$2500, depending on the number and types of tests being done, in addition to the local cost of living.
Some tests (such as cardiac screening or thyroid) need to be repeated every 1-3 years.
Great Dane puppies from healthy, properly tested breeding stock are more likely to live long and robust lives. Those puppies will continue to pass on their good genetics, too!
Good breeders are worth every penny that they charge, as they are dedicating a lot of time, effort, and money to their breeding program.
Hold your Great Dane breeder to a higher standard! Look for breeders that participate in the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals CHIC program, whose Danes are family members first, and who will support you and your healthy puppy for life.
