If you’re a Great Dane lover, you probably love seeing their adorable pictures. Here are the 10 most adorable Great Dane pictures that will make your day.
Great Dane Pictures
We’ve got 10 adorable Great Dane pictures for you!
If you’d like to submit your own, be sure to click here.
One: Doc Enjoying The Sun
Sweet Doc is as happy as can be in the grass! He probably thinks it feels good to rub his back on the ground!
Two: Lexi and Rayna are out for a walk!
Great Danes love to go for walks , and Lexi and Rayna are no different! They look like they’re having a blast exploring the outdoors together.
Three: This pup taking a walk with her hooman:
Harleigh is a senior Great Dane, but she doesn’t let that hold her back. When her tiny Hooman calls her for a walk, she is ready!
Four: Viola Sunbathing
What better way to spend your day than soaking up some sun? Viola looks like she is enjoying every minute of it!
Five: Figaro In His New Home
Fig looks so proud to have found his forever home!
By the looks of his paws, he is going to be a big boy!
Six: Gigi Gets Spinal Surgery
Gigi had spinal surgery after she was diagnosed with Wobblers Syndrome, but she isn’t letting that hold her back from her beauty!
Her cast will help keep her neck supported while she recovers!
Seven: Hugs for Mama!
Great Dane hugs are the best kind of hugs!
Great Danes can stand up to be taller than their owners!
Eight: Banksy Has Dinner On Her Mind
Sometimes all you can think about is what’s on the menu!
If you have a Great Dane, you know one thing is for sure- they LOVE to eat!
Nine: Playing In The Mud Is TOO MUCH FUN!
WOOPS! I was having too much fun, I didn’t even realize I was making a mess.
TEN: Larry Enjoys the Garbage
“Why do humans always ask questions they already know the answer to. YES Mum I was in the garbage.” –Larrygreatdane
Great Danes are funny, wild and crazy, but they bring so much joy to our lives!
Check back often for more fun photos!
JOIN OUR COMMUNITY
Do you like modern positive+balanced off-leash dog training, science-based information, life with Danes, educated ownership and chatting with other like-minded people?
After years of searching, trial and error I think I’ve found a near-perfect treat training pouch.
A bait bag like the OllyDog Backcountry is made to carry treats for your dog during luring, training, sports, and activities.
Having a great treat training pouch that is easy to use, rugged and simple to wear is so important. At Hello Danes we believe in positive reinforcement (and modern balanced) dog training, and treats are a HUGE piece of that puzzle!
OllyDog Backcountry Day Pack Treat Pouch Review
I ordered my OllyDog treat pouch directly from Amazon. What really caught my eye was the fact that they had several colors to choose from, including CUTE patterns like the one I chose (with pine trees and hearts. I’m obsessed!).
It came fast with one-day shipping (YAY! I needed it for a training class after my old treat pouch bit the dust).
Some of the colors were out of stock or took longer to arrive, so be aware of that before you fall in love with a color or pattern they have!
OllyDog Treat Pouch First Impressions
I LOVE this pattern so much, it’s adorable. I’d be lying if I didn’t mention that I was worried about the white getting dirty (because you know, dogs) but it’s worth the risk.
The pattern part with the white background does appear to be a high quality, possibly waxed canvas material. I suspect like similar products from that fabric that it’s going to hold up VERY well.
This bag is well-made and sturdy, from heavy canvas, zippers and linings. It’s actually much nicer in quality and build than other treat pouches I’ve had (and believe me, I’ve had several).
I personally like that this dog treat pouch is substantial in size. Many of the smaller ones will spill treats out if you bend over, but this one is deep and wide.
OllyDog Backcountry Treat Pouch Features
This treat pouch offers:
Sturdy construction
Beautiful decorative details
A LARGE deep pouch with a zipper closure, for holding your favorite dog treats
A zipper pouch for your keys and cell phone (keep them secure!)
A pouch with a dispenser hole for doo-doo bags (we prefer the biodegradable or compostable kind)
A stretchy side-pocket made of webbing, may be useful for clickers and small toys
Two of the biggest complaints that people (including me) have about treat pouches (in general) is that they are NOT deep enough OR that their hand doesn’t easily fit into the pouch. OllyDog has solved both of these problems.
How to wear (and use) a dog treat pouch
You can attach your new OllyDog Treat Pouch to your body with the included (removable) belt OR the metal clip. Your choice!
We recommend using positive reinforcement to teach your dog new behaviors. These include things such as:
Sit, Down, Stand
Stay
Wait
Leave it
Let’s Go!
Look
Touch
Place
Heel
Back up
COME!
Positive reinforcement means to add something to reinforce (increase) a behavior.
Professional dog trainers use treats and dog food to motivate and reward dogs.
When using treats for positive reinforcement, HIDE the treat until your dog completes the behavior!
When you hide the treats (in an OllyDog or similar treat pouch), the treats become a surprise reward.
The goal with all treat training is to fade out the reliance on treats, so don’t spend too much time luring!
Keep your hands off the treats until your dog shows the behavior you want. Storing the goodies in a treat pouch, but still easily accessible, is the professional way of doing things.
A good treat pouch is a must-have for training classes, rewarding good behavior around the house (especially for puppies!), hiking, and more.
A simple clip on the outside front would have made it so that the remote could be attached to this bag, and you could also have the treats within reach. E-Collar training should always be taught with lots of positive reinforcement, and the Mini-Educator (low stim, feels like a touch sensation) paired with treats = magic for you and your dog.
Until I figure out how to fashion my own clip for this, I’ll continue to wear my E-Collar remotes around my neck.
The OllyDog Treat pouch comes in two versions: the Backcountry (my personal favorite, as we walk and hike off-leash often), or the smaller goodie bag with magnetic closure.
The smaller version is perfect for dog owners who want something more compact with fewer features.
Like the Backcountry treat pouch, it comes in a range of gorgeous designer colors and patterns.
Do you like modern positive+balanced off-leash dog training, science-based information, life with Danes, educated ownership and chatting with other like-minded people?
Post after post from dog owners whose previously voracious puppies and dogs have suddenly ‘become picky’, ‘stopped eating’, or are rejecting their meals.
We have this inherent desire, as humans, to feed animals.
Even when they don’t want to be fed.
A common response to picky eating in dogs is to add toppers or treats such as canned food, chicken, ground beef or raw food.
Many other people switch brands on repeat, trying to find a food that “doesn’t cause runny stools” or “allergies”.
Both of these paths are dangerous territory, and we’re going to talk about why below!
Dogs Know What They Need
It’s important to understand that biologically, most dogs know what they need.
When we try to bribe otherwise healthy (no medical problems) dogs into eating, we are basically encouraging them to over-eat.
Overfed dogs become overweight dogs, all because we didn’t trust them to moderate their own intake.
A dog’s appetite and metabolic needs will fluctuate not only during growth, but depending on the season, the weather, treats offered, and activity levels.
We should never assume that dogs need the exact same portion of food every single day.
Humans don’t eat like that, why would dogs?
Around 7-10 months of age, many Great Dane puppies drastically reduce their food intake. This happens in line with the natural slowing of the explosive growth that happens from birth to 6 months.
Many dog owners find this alarming, and start believing that their dog has become picky.
What people don’t realize here is that their dog is actually…full.
All of this food switching, bribery and unbalanced nutrition is likely the culprit behind the health issues and pickiness, NOT necessarily grains and chicken!
It’s important to note that actual grain, chicken, and food allergies are exceptionally rare in dogs. The only legitimate way to rule out food allergies is through a hydrolyzed protein food elimination trial with veterinary guidance.
Health Weight, Matters.
Keeping your dog at a healthy weight is step one. Many people believe that their dog is underweight and needs to be bribed to eat more, when in reality, they are perfect!
Healthy weight dogs are leaner than you think. Puppies in particular can look positively gangly at times, and that is ok! If your dog is vibrant, energetic and building muscle, you don’t likely need to be concerned.
It is a rare situation when a dog actually needs to be fed more to gain weight.
That most often happens when there are medical problems at play such as parasites, malnutrition, unbalanced diets or metabolic disorders that need veterinary attention.
If you think your dog is underweight, talk to your veterinarian!
Many times a simple switch to the correct formulation (puppy, adult, or senior dog food) can help a dog build muscle and fill out a bit, too.
Here are some examples of a healthy-weight Great Danes of all ages, for reference.
Ear Cropping Great Danes
What About Toppers?
Toppers DO, however have their place. As a matter of fact, some studies indicate that the addition of fiber and fresh foods to a dry kibble diet may help reduce the risk of bloat.
We recommend adding toppers as a way to promote health, NOT as a way to bribe a dog to eat.
Our favorite toppers include balanced raw, Olewo Carrots, Dr. Harvey’s, and fresh fruit or veggies (in moderation). Keep toppers to less than 10% of the diet. We’ve linked Dr. Harvey’s below.
How do I Stop My Dog from being a Picky Eater?
Now that we understand the pitfalls of bribery and food switching, it’s time to address picky eating in dogs.
Fixing a picky eating issue requires you to change your routine and take steps towards healthier habits.
Step 1:
Talk to your vet to rule out medical issues. Allergies can be determined by using a hydrolyzed protein prescription diet paired with an elimination food trial. Giardia is a common parasite that may need antibiotics to treat. A dog with low energy, dull coat and a lack of muscle will likely benefit from both medical attention and a change to a science-backed diet.
Parasites, bad teeth, thyroid problems, heart problems, joint issues, and being overweight can lead to a reduced appetite.
Step 2:
Choose a well-balanced, professionally formulated and science-backed food brand that will have all of the nutrients and amino acids that your dog needs.
Our top pick is Purina Pro Plan Large Breed (Puppy, Adult or Senior depending on life stage). The Sensitive formula is perfect for dogs with icky tummies and stools. Eukanuba is another solid choice.
Step 3:
Measure your food out. Use an 8oz measuring cup and follow the guidelines on your bag of food. The amount stated will be for the entire day.
Reduce the amount of kibble by 10% if you are adding toppers of any kind. Reduce it further if you will be doing treat training. If your dog is overweight, choose a weight management formula or cut back again.
Add only enough toppers to make up the amount that you reduced from the kibble portion.
Pro tip: Grab a handful of the total amount and put it into your training pouch!
Tell yourself that it’s OK if your dog doesn’t eat all of it!
(Below we’ve linked to some balanced raw that can be used as a topper):
We Feed Raw provides complete mixes in a variety of proteins including Beef, Venison and Turkey.
Step 4:
Dine and dash!
First, DINE: Feed your pup a portion of their daily intake and save the rest for other meals later in the day.
Then, DASH: Put the food down for your dog, walk away and set a 10 or 15 minute timer.
If your dog doesn’t eat the meal, pick it up when the timer goes off. Save it for lunch time.
If your dog does eat and seems hungry still, sprinkle in a little more from the daily intake pile.
Offer your dog a meal 2-3 times over the course of the day, but put a time limit on it. Don’t make a fuss. Don’t bribe. Don’t make it a thing.
Eliminating picky eating means giving your dog a little tough love.
Your dog will NOT let itself starve to death.
Step 5:
Rinse and repeat.
Use food in puzzles and for training! This fun enrichment can encourage eating, if you are concerned.
Stop worrying too much about your dog’s food intake. Stress is not good for us OR for our dogs!
If you are offering a science-backed diet or balanced raw, and your dog has a healthy body condition and good energy, chances are you’re doing just fine.
If you see anything else unusual, instead of switching foods again, talk to your veterinarian.
Do you like modern positive+balanced off-leash dog training, science-based information, life with Danes, educated ownership and chatting with other like-minded people?
In fact, according to yours truly: me, it has been proven as one of the most challenging things about owning a dog.
Why is it so difficult?
I really will admit when I got my first puppies (yes- that’s right, I got two 8 week old dogs at once), I thought that daily walks would be fun, and we could start walking right away.
Peaceful, nice, enjoyable.
NOT.
My dogs were terrible. It’s one thing to have your dog pulling on the leash and killing your back (you can just pretend it doesn’t hurt, wave kindly to people passing by, and act like you have everything put together), but when your puppy is rapidly gaining weight (Great Danes) and becoming stronger than you- the pull becomes a problem: physically, mentally AND emotionally.
I was really stressed. Matter of fact, I was doomed.
Why are all these people walking all of their perfectly behaved dogs around the neighborhood?
Meanwhile, me: My dog’s leash is tangled around my entire body like a trap, my dog starts pulling and I do everything I can to pretend it isn’t about to trip me to the concrete. I’m trying to walk nicely- wait, aren’t the dogs supposed to be the ones who are walking nicely? Don’t even BEGIN to think about carrying a COFFEE on this walk. I need BOTH hands.
Dog walks are no freaking joke.
LOOSE LEASH: MORE LIKE A FOREIGN LANGUAGE
One day, I took one puppy on a walk (que the pulling) with a friend.
She said, ‘you should really teach loose leash walking with her’.
Gulp. I am pretty sure you could see the sweat beads on my forehead. WHAT THE HECK IS LOOSE LEASH WALKING? I think my friend could probably HEAR my panic.
‘Of course I am practicing loose leash skills with her… We practice loose leash walking ALL the time’…. I could barely muster the words.
We walk forward a few steps- my puppy pulling on both her collar and leash as I pretend to know what I’ve gotten myself into.
GOOGLE QUERY: LOOSE LEASH WALKING TIPS
Panic sets in and I set to the googling.
Loose leash walking. Dog training. Dog walks that don’t create anxiety attacks.
Google dings back with 1 billion results.
“Loose leash walking in dog training: it means that the dog walks on a loose leash, without pulling ahead of or behind the person holding the end of the leash. In order to train your dog to walk on a loose leash, you’ll need patience and consistency.”
Well that’s just great.
I’m going to need more than just patience and consistency- I’m going to need a MIRACLE.
Wish me luck. Slam computer shut.
LEARNING TO LOVE LEASH TRAINING
Well, my dogs new how to grow fast, but they did not know how to walk nicely even though we continued to practice walking.
Photo credit to @lexi.aspen.raynaPhoto credit to @lexi.aspen.raynaPhoto credit to @lexi.aspen.rayna
But, I knew I needed to keep practicing leash training or else we would literally never be able to leave the house.
I started my quest for teaching loose leash walking.
THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT TO LEASH TRAIN
I quickly learned that in order to get these two demons, I mean puppies, leash trained- we were going to need the right stuff.
All I had was a flat collar, and it felt like every time we went to practice leash training it was more like a ‘choke your puppy’ training session.
No, really. Both dogs would end up coughing from the amount of pulling and strain on their throats.
I’m no professional- but I knew that was not healthy. So, I investigated which items are healthiest for dogs to walk on a leash.
Here is what I found:
FLAT COLLAR OTHERWISE KNOWN AS A ‘REGULAR’ COLLAR FOR NOOBS LIKE ME
Your dog’s collar might be adorable but if it is hurting your dog, what’s the point?
I found that a flat collar was actually really uncomfortable for my puppy and it constricted her breathing. (Yes- every dog DOES need a regular collar for multiple reasons, including tags/identification, but is it best for training? Not really.)
Heres a cute one… because it’s cute…
Custom velvet collar, bowtie and leash set. Make your own here.
Anyways, I knew I needed to find something different if we were going to make any progress with leash training.
Using a regular collar can put strain on your dogs throat and neck, ESPECIALLY when they pull or if they are regularly pulling on the leash.
MARTINGALE COLLAR
A martingale collar is a type of dog collar that provides more control over the animal without the choking effect of a slip collar.
A martingale collar is often used on dogs who pull on their leash.
The martingale collar was specifically designed for sighthounds, which have necks that are larger than their heads and can easily slip out of standard collars.
Martingale collars have become popular with dog owners.
SLIP COLLAR OR CHOKE COLLAR
A slip collar (also called a choke chain or check chain) is a type of dog collar that consists of a loop of material that tightens when pulled, and is loosened when the lead is slackened.
Slip collars are used to train dogs to not pull on their leash, as the tightening of the collar around the neck punishes the dog for pulling.
At first, I thought that training your dog to walk on a choke collar or slip collar seemed cruel. But, as I looked into it, I learned that it is actually WAY better for the dog and their entire body to use a slip/choke collar rather than constantly yanking their neck around on a regular collar and leash.
GENTLE LEADER
The Gentle Leader is one that really got me angry.
The marketing of the ‘gentle’ leader is brilliant- and EVERYONE falls for it- it’s gentle of course, right?
WRONG.
The gentle leader is actually a head halter that puts pressure on your dog’s muzzle- not their neck like a regular collar.
This type of leash is used by putting the loop around your dog’s muzzle and clipping the leash to the ring on the back of the head.
I’m sure you can imagine how this would feel, being yanked or even pulled by the muzzle.
I can’t imagine anything less gentle.
LEASH
Since my puppy was pulling incessantly on the leash, I opted for a short, tight one that was within my control. I didn’t want them to pull me over or hurt themselves, so I went with a sturdy, comfortable leash.
Inside of the e collar is a receiver and a transmitter. The receiver goes on the dog’s collar and the transmitter stays with you, usually around your neck.
I REALLY loved the fundamentals behind the e collar methods to training your dog with both positive reinforcement as well as correcting when the dog is wrong- so I opted for using an e collar, a regular collar, and a standard leash. I also got a long leash for using inside the house or backyard to begin to start leash training.
Now that I had all the right equipment, it was time to start training!
TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL LOOSE LEASH WALKING
Start in a distraction free area- like your backyard.
Put the long leash on your dog, and let them walk around without you doing anything.
This is called “getting used to the feel of the leash.”
Offer treats when your dog is walking nicely, keep your sessions short, and
Once you regularly see good behavior you can gradually increase to spending more time on the lead and add in some distractions.
ADD IN DISTRACTIONS
Have a family member or friend stand about 20 feet away from you, holding your dog’s favorite treat.
If your dog pulls ahead and creates leash tension, ask them to stop pulling by saying “stop” and “sit”.
Keep practicing this until your dog is really good at it, then move on to other distractions like another person or animal walking by.
Remember- baby steps! Rome wasn’t built in a day.
INCORPORATING TREATS
In my opinion, treats are an essential part of training your dog.
I made sure to include a treat every few minutes or even seconds during short periods of training. I got a treat pouch and kept the treats close by at all times!
Here are the treats that my puppy absolutely LOVES!
As you walk, keep the slack in the leash- don’t let your dog get ahead of you or lag behind.
If they start to pull, stop walking and make them sit until the slack is back in the leash.
PRACTICING PATIENCE (WHILE YOUR DOG PULLS ON THE LEASH)
One of the most important things to remember while leash training is to be patient!
Your dog has probably been pulling on the leash their whole life, so it’s going to take some time for them to adjust.
Be consistent with your commands and using treats as rewards, and eventually you’ll see results!
WALKING YOUR DOG: ENJOYMENT VS. SURVIVAL MODE
If you are as desperate as I am to teach your dog to walk on a leash, you probably understand that there are times that your dog really might not listen, might pull constantly and walking might not be fun.
SPOILER ALERT: sometimes your dog just needs to go for a quick walk to potty and it might not be the right time to train your dog.
Set aside collar and leash time daily if you can, be intentional about correcting behavioral issues, but do not be a perfectionist.
Walking with your dog is a process that sometimes comes in waves of ups and downs. Be sure to really recognize when your dog is ‘off duty’ and can have some ‘free time’ to stop and smell the roses.
DOG WALKS: THEY CAN BE FUN! (I PROMISE)
I started off thinking that getting a dog to walk appropriately was absolutely miserable.
But as I continue walking my dog every single day, I have learned that every walk is different.
Sometimes, I will have my dog’s attention completely, and sometimes I won’t.
But, EVERY single walk does teach me something new about them, and I have learned that in order to train your dog you have to dig inside of yourself as well.
Some of my most cherished memories and moments are just me and my dog out for a walk. I promise, it does get better!
LEASH TRAINING: THE FINAL VERDICT? WORTH IT. YES. A MILLION TIMES OVER.
Although training a puppy or older dog is NEVER easy- when you get a dog you have to start leash training.
Over time, with a million of hours of practice, blood, sweat and tears, my dog has become reliable both on leash and off leash.
I trust my dog with my life- something I NEVER would have guessed I would have been able to say about the floppy/clumsy/terribly behaved puppy I brought home.
Teaching your dog to walk nicely is a civic duty of pet parents- and I promise, it is so worth it.
Need help with modern e collar training? Check out our guide.
Coming in hot with my non-biased Embark DNA Review!
A few months ago I decided to do an Embark DNA Test for my Great Danes, even though I assumed they are purebred dogs.
Although I figured my dog’s results in the breed identification portion of the breed health kit would be Great Dane, I still wanted to get the test results and thought it would be fun to see both their breed results and their health report.
Here’s how my process went, what it was like to complete the DNA test and get my dog’s tested, and what pet owners should expect when taking an Embark DNA test.
ONE: EMBARK DNA REVIEW: THE DIFFERENT DNA TESTS AND WHY I CHOSE TO DO AN EMBARK TEST
There are a few different types of DNA tests for dogs. The most popular ones are the Embark and the Wisdom Panel.
The Wisdom Panel is a test that tells you the breeds in your dog’s ancestry going back three generations. It also screens for more than 250 different diseases. The Embark dog dna tests for over 160 different breeds and screens for more than 175 different genetic health conditions.
This test costs $159, and tests your dog’s breed, potential health risks that your dog will face based upon genetics, and provides a family tree.
This test gives a thorough breed composition as well as can go as far back as great grandparents on your pup’s family tree.
PUREBRED KIT
The Purebred Kit tests your dog’s dna for potential health risks as well as contains a breed identification kit. This health test kit is also $159.
This sample, however, is more targeted to the dog’s genetic makeup in regards to comparing it with another dog dna test that is related.
This sample kit could be used for canine research, breeders, or scientific research. Breeders often look at this kit for obtaining health results of the dog’s parents- however you should NOT rely on health results from a breeder who relies on a dog’s dna or breed ancestry from Embark. Refer to our blog post on OFA Health Testing.
BREED ID
The Breed ID kit is a simplified version of the breed health kit in the sense that it DOES NOT include any potential health issues that your dog’s DNA implies.
The breed identification kit ONLY checks for what dog breed your pup is- and can provide family trees on your rescue dog, any mixed breed of up to 350 dog breeds. So, instead of BOTH a health DNA report AND a breed identification report, the breed identification kit is ONLY providing you with breed identification.
The Breed ID Kit will look at the genetic makeup of your dog’s traits in the breed identification process in order to inform you what dog breed you have.
If you are looking to just simply provide a dna sample and learn about the breed ancestry of your dog, the Breed ID kit features just that for $109.
THREE: GIVING A DNA TEST TO YOUR DOG: WHAT’S IN IT FOR DOG OWNERS?
One of the primary reasons I wanted to do a dog dna test review was because of the fun and easy process of getting my dog’s results: from start to finish.
It was SO much easier to complete the dna test than I thought it would be. Here is how it went:
Remember, the Breed Health Kit is the dog DNA test that checks for BOTH health markers as well as breed identification. The cost of my sample kit was $159.
RECEIVE THE KIT IN THE MAIL
When you get the DNA test in the mail- you need to activate it.
Go online and register your kit. Inside of your kit you will find a code that is individual to your dog.
Click on the ‘Activate Kit’ button as shown below. This will prompt you to create an account for your doggo and register your dog’s sample.
Trick: I opted NOT to fill out the physical traits of my dog OR add any photos prior to getting my results. I wanted to see if the dog DNA test was accurate enough to REALLY know that she was a Great Dane before I shared all of her physical traits with the portal.
SWAB YOUR PUP
Next, you want to swab your pup.
The DNA sample is collected with a swab that is provided in the kit.
You want to make sure you get a good sample- so I recommend following the directions clearly- I have seen some Embark reviews stating that their dog DNA test came back a few weeks later requesting an additional swab (owners did not swab thoroughly enough).
I swabbed my pup’s gums and inside of her cheek for 30 seconds. Then, I stuck the swab back into the swab vial and put it into the prepaid envelope.
MAIL YOUR RESULTS
It really is as easy as that! After you have swabbed- stick the prepaid envelope with your dog dna test into the mail.
Then comes the hard part- the waiting! The test can take WEEKS to come back- even months.
My test results came back within about 6 weeks- but luckily Embark sent a few emails along the way to let me know that the dog dna test had made its way to the facility and give updates that they were working on finding the results, etc.
FOUR: WHAT DID I LEARN WHEN I GOT MY DOG’S DNA TEST BACK?
As soon as your dna test results are back- you will get an email with the results.
If you got the Breed ID Kit- your results will be JUST breed identification related. If you got the Breed/Health kit, like I did, your results will be indicative of both breed/genetic diversity/dog’s background as well as indicators of any health markers you should be aware of within your dog’s genetic diversity.
Your ‘portal’ looks like this, and is broken up into multiple sections: Health, Breed and Relatives.
HEALTH
The Embark Dog DNA Test checks for 210+ genetic health risks. That is more genetic health risks than any other dog dna test on the market.
The Embark Dog DNA Test also screens for the MDR-01 gene that predisposes dogs to adverse reactions to certain drugs. Basically, this means that if your pup has this gene- they may have a harder time metabolizing certain types of drugs and may need a lower dosage or different drug altogether.
Gigi’s Health Results
The test will also let you know if your pup is a carrier of any genetic diseases, even if they don’t have the disease themselves. This is important information to have because it means you can be extra vigilant about health screenings for those diseases and make sure you are not breeding carriers with other carriers (which can produce puppies with the disease).
Because it checks for common adult onset diseases, the test can be used preventatively to help you stay on top of any diseases that are common in your dog’s breed.
BREEDS
The Embark Dog DNA Test can identify more than 350 breeds, including some wolf and coyote content. This is the most breed diversity of any dog dna test on the market.
My pup’s results said she was 100% Great Dane- which I knew. But, it was SUPER fun to dive into the colors that she carried for, as it also checks your dog’s coat and colors.
Gigi’s Colors
The test will give you a ‘breed family tree’ that shows what percentage of each breed is in your pup as well as the history/origin of each breed.
RELATIVES
This was my favorite part of the results .
The Embark Dog DNA Test will tell you how closely related your pup is to other dogs in their database.
My pup is distantly related to another dog in the database that is also 100% Great Dane. I also found several other relatives including a possible match for great grandparents.
A few of the dogs who share DNA with Gigi
I was able to reach out to one pet parent who shared a TON of physical traits (and DNA!) with Gigi and we talked for a few messages about how fun it would be if Gigi and Layla ever got to meet.
FIVE: ARE DOG DNA TESTS WORTH IT?
I do believe that the Embark dog dna test is worth it.
Although it is a bit pricy, I was glad that I went with the Health AND Breed identification kit.
If you already know your dog’s breed, but want to check for health markers only, there is no other option BUT to purchase the kit with both breed identification and health.
If you do not know your dog’s breed, they are a mixed breed or rescue, and you ONLY want to find out their breed- you can opt for the $109 breed identification kit- but in my opinion it is worth the extra $50 to get the health information as well.
I think the Embark Dog DNA Test is especially worth it if you have a pup with unknown parentage.
The test can give you a lot of information about genetic diversity as well as any markers you should be aware of.
SIX: SHOULD THE EMBARK DOG DNA TEST BE USED BY BREEDERS TO HEALTH TEST?
In my opinion, breeders should NOT use the Embark Dog DNA Test to health test their adult dogs in order to prove that they are fit to breed.
It is just NOT sufficient enough to provide enough information.
There are other, much more comprehensive health tests that provide far more information about the health of a dog and their suitability to breed.
The Embark Dog DNA Test is a great tool for learning about your own pet- but it should not be used as the sole source of information when making breeding decisions.
OPT FOR OFA HEALTH TESTING
When looking into dog breeds who are healthy and health tested, find a breeder who uses OFA Health Testing on their dogs.
OFA health testing tests things that Embark cannot test, like hips, heart, and eyes.
To further read, feel free to view my blog post about OFA testing.
I hope you enjoyed my Embark Dog DNA review! If you have any questions, feel free to leave them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them!
These antibiotics are typically used to treat bacterial infections such as strep throat, pneumonia, and bronchitis in humans. They can also be used to treat urinary tract infections and skin infections.
Dogs should NOT take:
Tetracycline
Fluoroquinolones
Macrolides
These antibiotics are used to treat more serious infections such as Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and leptospirosis. They can also be used to treat urinary tract infections that are resistant to other antibiotics.
So, can dogs take human antibiotics? The answer is- it depends on the antibiotic. Be sure to check with your veterinarian before giving your dog any human medication, even if it is one that is safe for dogs. And, as always, follow the dosage instructions carefully. Giving your dog too much or too little of any medication can be dangerous.
As a pet parent, it’s important to know that you can use amoxicillin for your dogs- but there are a few things you should keep in mind.
First, amoxicillin is a prescription medication. This means that you will need to get a prescription from your veterinarian before giving it to your dog. If you have extra amoxicillin that was originally prescribed as a humans prescription, do your research before administering it as treatment or make a quick call to your veterinarian.
Second, you should always follow the dosage instructions that are provided by your veterinarian. Amoxicillin is available in both tablet form and liquid form.
The liquid form is typically easier to give to dogs as it is administered orally and can be mixed onto their food or with something like fish oil, but the pill form can be crushed and mixed with food or hidden in a treat if necessary.
FINDING THE CORRECT DOSAGE OF ANTIBIOTICS FOR DOGS
Finding the right dose of antibiotic for dogs is safest when you can speak with your vet.
After all- you are treating an animal with an antibiotic drug which does have impact on your pet’s health.
It is not okay to give antibiotics at random- without knowing what the cause is.
In order to find the dosage, you will need to know the entire body weight of your dog’s body.
If you don’t have a scale at home, most veterinarians will be more than happy to help you weigh your dog during an appointment or even over the phone.
Another antibiotic that can be used to treat ear infections is called enrofloxacin. If you are prescribed this antibiotic, it is important to follow the dosage instructions carefully as enrofloxacin can have some serious side effects if not used correctly.
Enrofloxacin is a narrower spectrum antibiotic which means that it works against a smaller variety of bacteria infection.
WHAT ARE THE SIDE EFFECTS OF THE MOST COMMON ANTIBIOTICS?
The most common side effects of antibiotics are:
Diarrhea
Nausea
Vomiting
Loss of appetite
These side effects are typically mild and go away on their own. However, if you notice any severe side effects, it is important to contact your veterinarian immediately.
Even veterinary specific medicines can cause gastrointestinal upset- and can change the flora of your pets gut. If your dog has an infection or you are prescribed any antibiotics or other medications, you should get a probiotic to keep your dog’s stomach flora healthy.
IS THERE A NATURAL ANTIBIOTIC FOR ANIMALS?
There are a few different natural antibiotics that can be used for animals.
Garlic is a broad-spectrum antibiotic which means that it works against a wide variety of bacteria.
This makes it a good choice for minimal side effects to treat infections.
Another natural antibiotic is honey. Since bees are food producing animals, it is best to source honey locally.
The most common way to use honey as an antibiotic is to topically apply it to a wound or infection.
When using honey medicinally, it is important to make sure that you are using raw, unprocessed honey for maximal benefit.
Honey is a narrower spectrum antibiotic which means that it works against a smaller variety of bacteria infection.
Honey is also a natural antiseptic, which means that it can help to prevent infections.
MY DOG IS HAVING AN ALLERGIC REACTION TO A DRUG
If your dog is having any sort of reaction to any medication, even any of the most common antibiotics, it should be considered an emergency.
In a reaction, your pet could struggle with their respiratory system and have difficulty breathing.
Their respiratory tract could swell up and close off, causing them to suffocate.
If your dog is having an allergic reaction to a medication, the first thing you should do is call your veterinarian or emergency animal hospital immediately.
Do not try to give them anything else, not even over the counter medicines meant for humans- as these could further complicate the vet attempt in treating your pet.
ARE HUMAN MEDICATIONS THE SAME AS DOG ANTIBIOTICS?
The answer to this question is very complex. In short- no, human medications are not the same as dog antibiotics.
There are some similarities- such as the fact that both humans and dogs can take amoxicillin for bacterial infections.
However, there are also key differences that pet parents need to be aware of.
Dogs process medications differently than humans do. This means that the dosage, frequency, and even the side effects can be different for dogs.
For example, even though dog amoxicillin is safe, some human grade amoxicillin can cause stomach upset in dogs.
This is why it is so important to always speak with a veterinarian before giving your dog any medication- even if it is something as seemingly innocuous as an antibiotic.
SHOULD I GIVE MY DOG HUMAN GRADE AMOXICILLIN OR ANTIBIOTICS?
In theory, there are many medications that you can share with your pet.
However, be careful going to the human medicine cabinet for your pet’s antibiotics.
Many human medications, even over the counter drugs, can be dangerous or even deadly for animals.
Do you like modern positive+balanced off-leash dog training, science-based information, life with Danes, educated ownership and chatting with other like-minded people?
If you’re considering acupuncture for dogs, you’re not alone.
I personally began using Acupuncture out of a feeling of desperation. My Great Dane, Gigi, was having severe chronic pain from her Wobblers diagnosis.
When modern medicine was not an option for Gigi and her pain management as she was not a candidate for traditional spinal surgery- we were left with the option of lifelong pain medications- and worst- lifelong pain.
I decided to try and start searching for a treatment protocol that could relieve pain and help my dog’s condition.
Gigi at her first Acupuncture appointment
As pet owners, we will do anything we can for our pet’s health. I was motivated to help Gigi with her degenerative joint disease.
MY JOURNEY TO FINDING ACUPUNCTURE FOR DOGS
In my quest in understanding my dog’s health, I found Canine Acupuncture.
I was lucky to stumble upon an amazing canine acupuncturist who’s vet clinic was practically in my backyard.
I took Gigi in for her first acupuncture session.
TRADITIONAL CHINESE VETERINARY MEDICINE vs. WESTERN MEDICINE
TCM is a system of medicine that has been used for over 4000 years to treat human and animal patients.
The goal of TCM is to achieve balance in the body and prevent disease.
TCM encompasses several modalities including acupuncture, Chinese herbs, food therapy, and tui-na (massage).
Alternatively, Western Medicine is the system of medicine most commonly used in the United States.
The goal of Western Medicine is to treat disease with medications or surgery.
Common modalities used in Western Medicine include, but are not limited to, pharmaceuticals, vaccines, and radiotherapy.
CERTIFIED VETERINARY ACUPUNCTURIST
So how does acupuncture fit into all of this?
A Certified Veterinary Acupuncturist is somewhat of a mix between both!
They have completed an accredited veterinary program and then gone on to complete an additional 300-hour acupuncture certification to be able to perform Veterinary Acupuncture.
This combination of Eastern and Western medicine is what makes Certified Veterinary Acupuncturists so unique.
They are able to provide comprehensive care to their patients by utilizing both systems of medicine.
WHAT PET OWNERS SHOULD EXPECT WITH DOG ACUPUNCTURE
At Gigi’s first appointment, I was anxious to see whether or not this acupuncture treatment would be effective to alleviate pain.
When I first arrived, I explained my dog’s medical records and her amazing Veterinary Acupuncturist began to explain the treatment of Acupuncture therapy.
Pet parents should expect acupuncture sessions to be virtually painless for their dog’s body, and should see a healing response within just a few hours of time.
A typical acupuncture session lasts for about 30 minutes with a trained Acupuncturist.
Let’s talk about some of the things I learned at my first animal acupuncture appointment with Gigi.
ACUPUNCTURE NEEDLES
The needles used on dogs are much smaller in diameter than the needles used on humans.
They are also solid, as opposed to the hollow-cored needles used on humans.
The smaller size and solidity of the needles make them much less painful when inserted into your dog.
They are a little bit intimidating to pet parents at first, but rest assured that acupuncture work is not painful.
ACUPUNCTURE POINTS
There are over 365 acupuncture points on a dog’s body.
The most commonly used points are located on the legs, neck, and back.
These points correspond to areas where your dog is most likely to have pain or discomfort.
Acupuncture for dogs will rely on these pressure points to help ease pain in the body.
NEEDLE INSERTION
Acupuncture needles are inserted into the skin and muscle tissue.
The depth of needle insertion will vary depending on the size of your dog and the location of the acupuncture point.
Most needles are only inserted a few millimeters below the skin surface.
Once the needles are in place, they are left there for 20-30 minutes.
The needles enhance blood circulation by opening up the blood vessels and by releasing endorphins, which are the body’s natural painkillers.
After the needles are removed, your dog will be relaxed and may even fall asleep.
TREATMENT TIME
Acupuncture sessions usually last between 30-60 minutes.
First, the Veterinarian will conduct a general medical assessment.
Then, they will begin to perform acupuncture.
During this time, your dog will be lying on a comfortable table or bed.
The acupuncturist will insert the needles into your dog’s skin at various points on their body.
After the needles are inserted, your dog will be left to relax for a few minutes.
Most dogs enjoy this part of the treatment and will often fall asleep. Pet parents can sit with their pup the entire time their dog is receiving acupuncture treatments.
AFTER THE TREATMENT
After the treatment is finished, the needles will be removed and your dog will be able to go home.
Most dogs feel relaxed and calm after an acupuncture session.
It is important to avoid letting your dog run or play for at least 30 minutes after the treatment. You can use a crate to keep them calm, if needed.
This will give the acupuncture time to work and will help prevent your dog from getting injured.
Most people who take their pup for dog acupuncture report that their dog is extremely happy and pain-free for several days or even weeks post-treatment.
THE BENEFITS OF ACUPUNCTURE FOR DOGS
Acupuncture has been shown to be an effective treatment for a variety of health problems.
There has been pain relieving effects for medical conditions such as hip dysplasia, joint disease, joint inflammation, Addison’s disease, neurological disorders (like Gigi!), gastrointestinal problems, musculoskeletal diseases, metabolic diseases, diabetes mellitus, and even treating pain from something as severe as a spinal cord injury.
Acupuncture has also been known to be helpful in treating behavioral problems such as separation anxiety and fear of fireworks.
Overall, acupuncture is a safe and effective way to treat a variety of health conditions in dogs.
Gigi with her sisters on a Big Barker Bed
When I originally took Gigi to her first dog acupuncture treatment, I really did not expect the results that I was about to receive for her.
HOW DOES CANINE ACUPUNCTURE ACTUALLY WORK
Canine acupuncture works when a Veterinary Acupuncturist inserts needles into specific areas on a dog’s body.
The goal is to release endorphins, increase blood circulation, and reduce inflammation.
Acupuncture can be used to treat a wide variety of health conditions in dogs.
It is important to note that acupuncture should only be performed by either licensed Veterinary Acupuncturists or Chiropractors.
ANIMAL ACUPUNCTURE AND THE NERVOUS SYSTEM
The nervous system of a dog is similar to that of human patients.
There are acupuncture points located all over the body that correspond to different areas of the dog’s body.
When the needles are inserted into these specific points, it helps to release endorphins and reduce pain, providing blood flow and releasing tissue inflammation.
First and foremost: Acupuncture helps to increase blood circulation and reduce inflammation which can be beneficial to your dog’s condition, pretty much no matter WHAT their condition is.
WHEN VETERINARY MEDICINE IS NOT HELPING A DOGS SUFFERING
Since prescription medication and some traditional medicine does not have anti inflammatory substances but rather can cause inflammation, alternative therapies like acupuncture work can be extremely beneficial to improve blood circulation.
Veterinary medicine is an incredible resource that has helped our dogs in so many ways. Most pet parents will admit to being extraordinarily grateful for their Veterinarian.
However, there are times when traditional medicine is not enough to help a dog suffering from pain or an injury.
This is where acupuncture for dogs comes in. Acupuncture is a safe and effective alternative treatment that can be used to treat a variety of health conditions in dogs.
GIGI’S STORY OF VETERINARY ACUPUNCTURE
After Gigi’s first Acupuncture treatment, I was really surprised at how much better she felt.
The results were almost immediate and she continued to improve with each subsequent treatment.
Now, Gigi is a happy and healthy dog who loves to go on walks and play with her toys.
I am so grateful that we found acupuncture for dogs and would recommend it to any pet parent who is looking for an alternative treatment for their dog.
If you are considering acupuncture for your dog, I would encourage you to speak with your veterinarian about it. They will be able to provide you with more information and help you decide if it is the right treatment option for your dog.
Have you ever tried acupuncture for your pup?
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There are many reasons why dogs might start fights with each other, including:
Possession aggression: This is when a dog becomes aggressive over something he perceives as his, such as a toy or a spot on the couch.
Territorial aggression: This is when a dog feels like his territory is being threatened and he becomes aggressive to protect it.
Fear aggression: This is when a dog is afraid of something and lashes out in aggression in order to protect himself.
Redirected aggression: This is when a dog is feeling aggressive about something but can’t get to the object of his aggression, so he redirects it onto another dog.
Now that you know some of the reasons why dogs might fight, let’s look at how to stop dogs from fighting.
HOW TO STOP DOGS FROM FIGHTING: THE SECOND STEP IS MANAGEMENT
The first step in management is understanding what sets your dogs off and trying to avoid those situations.
POSSESSION AGGRESSION
If you have an aggressive dog who gets more agitated when they are around toys, items, bones, or food, they might have possession aggression or food aggression. This is often called resource guarding.
Dogs involved with a dog fight involving being possessive might initially appear relaxed and then suddenly start growling or snapping when someone comes too close to their prized possession.
To help manage a dog with possession aggression:
Make sure there are enough toys, bones, and food so that each dog has their own.
Do not allow children to take away a toy from a dog; instead teach them to trade the dog for something else such as a treat.
If your dogs start fighting over an item, do not try to intervene yourself; instead, use a loud noise (such as clapping your hands) to startle them and make them drop the item.
TERRITORIAL AGGRESSION
Dogs who become aggressive when someone enters their home or yard might have territorial aggression.
To help your dog with possession aggression, you can:
Give them their own toys that they can keep in their own space
Feed them in separate areas or in crates so they don’t feel the need to protect their food
Avoid leaving bones or other chew items where other dogs can get to them
Teach him a “welcome” command so he knows that it’s okay for people to come in
Keep him on a leash when visitors come over so you know that he will not approach them
Crate train so that your dog feels safe as well as other people feel safe in the same room as your dog
Fear aggression is common in many dogs. Most dogs are afraid of at least something, if not all dogs.
Your dog could be afraid of the silliest things, like the sound of the vacuum cleaner or a plastic bag.
Other dogs might be afraid of more serious things, such as men with beards or people in hats.
Younger dogs often start off afraid of their own shadows, and need socialized to understand what validates fear and what does not.
The first step to helping your dog with fear aggression is to find out what he’s afraid of and try to avoid those situations while you are working on building confidence.
If you can’t avoid the situation, then you need to help your dog learn to cope with his fear. This can be done through desensitization and counterconditioning.
REDIRECTED AGGRESSION:
Redirected aggression happens when a dog is feeling aggressive about something but can’t get to the object of his aggression, so he redirects it onto another dog.
For example, if your dog is barking at the neighbor’s dog through the fence and the neighbor’s dog starts barking back, your dog might become so agitated that he turns around and bites you.
Do not put your dog in a situation where he is likely to be aroused by something but unable to get to it.
If you see that your dog is getting aroused by something, try to redirect his attention with a toy or treat.
Make sure that you are not inadvertently rewarding your dog for being aggressive by giving him attention when he is acting aggressively.
DOGS FIGHTING IS VERY DANGEROUS AND AGGRESSIVE BEHAVIOR SHOULD NOT BE TAKEN LIGHTLY
Dogs who are fighting can cause serious injuries to each other, as well as to people who try to break up the fight. It’s important to understand what might be causing your dogs to fight so that you can prevent future fights from happening. There are four main types of aggression in dogs: possession aggression, territorial aggression, fear aggression, and redirected aggression.
Possession aggression is when a dog becomes aggressive when someone tries to take away their toy or food.
Redirected aggression happens when a dog is feeling aggressive about something but can’t get to the object of his aggression, so he redirects it onto another person or animal.
Territorial aggression is when a dog becomes aggressive when someone enters their home or yard.
Fear aggression is when a dog becomes afraid of something and redirects his fear onto another person or animal.
WHAT DOES A STRESSED DOG LOOK LIKE?
A stressed dog might:
Pace
Shake or tremble
Pant excessively
Yawn
Lick his lips
Avoid eye contact
Have a “half-moon” eye (whites of the eyes are showing)
Ears may be back or flat against the head
Tail may be down, between the legs, or wagging low and fast
Body may be stiff
If your dog is demonstrating any of the above signs, they might be stressed, even if they are not demonstrating all of them.
Photo credit to @lexi.aspen.raynaPhoto credit to @lexi.aspen.rayna
Dog owners should be intuitive with their own dogs in order to identify underlying anxiety and their dogs stressors so that they can prevent dog fights in the first place.
WHAT DOES A MORE CONFIDENT DOG LOOK LIKE?
Some dog owners think that the most confident dog is the most dominant dog.
That is just not true.
The ‘pack leader’ will demonstrate calm behavior, a relaxed posture, and slow movements.
A confident dog is not afraid to make eye contact and will have a soft body with a natural wagging tail.
Confident dogs are not the ‘weaker dog’. They are not necessarily the older dog either.
The confident dogs will be able to help other dogs feel calm and comfortable by picking up on their cues.
Dogs who are comfortable with their situation will display:
Relaxed body
Loose ears
Relaxed tail
Happy to make eye contact
Happy to approach other dogs but also give space when needed
Not impacted when new people come into the dogs environment
Can happily be in the same house and same room as other dogs or a new dog
HOW TO STOP DOG FIGHTS INVOLVING GUARDING PEOPLE
Sometimes two dogs will get into a dog fight when one dog gets possessive over another dog while trying to ‘protect’ their owner or a person.
The first step in preventing this type of dog fight is to never put yourself in the middle of two dogs who are fighting.
If you try to break up a dogfight, you could get bitten by one or both dogs. The best way to break up a dog fight is to distract the dogs with loud noises or spray them with water. Once the dogs are distracted, you can move them away from each other.
WHY DO MANY DOGS GUARD THEIR OWNERS?
Many dogs will act aggressive if another dog comes too close to their owner.
Some dog owners consider this as a form of protection. They try to label this action as heroic: their dog is protecting them and even willing to fight other dogs to ‘protect them’.
Unfortunately, this couldn’t be further from the truth.
If a dog is acting aggressive when another dog comes nearby its dog owner, this is not heroic, but rather called guarding.
Dogs growling or raising their hackles at another dog for ANY reason shouldn’t be praised.
WHAT SHOULD I DO IF MY DOG IS GUARDING ME?
Identifying your dogs stressors is the first step.
If you know that your dogs triggers lies with the moment another dog approaches you, start by asking other dog owners to give your dog a wide berth.
This will help your dog feel more comfortable and less anxious. If you have friends with dogs, ask if they can help you out by not coming too close to you when your dog is around.
You can also work on desensitizing, socializing and counterconditioning your dog to other dogs being around you.
Start with having another person stand far away from you while you feed your dog his favorite treats. We recommend using a treat bag.
As he gets used to this, the person can move closer little by little until they are close enough to pet your dog without him feeling uncomfortable.
It’s important that during this training process, everyone involved ignores the fact that there is another dog present.
This means no talking to or looking at the other dog, even if he’s being well-behaved.
The goal is for your dog to associate the presence of other dogs with good things happening, instead of feeling anxious or stressed.
When your dog is comfortable with this exercise, you can start adding in movement by having the person walk around you while you are standing still.
Once your dog is doing well with that, you can move on to having the person walk past you while you are walking in the opposite direction.
Remember to go slowly and only increase the difficulty of the exercise when your dog is completely comfortable and not showing any signs of stress.
If at any point during these exercises your dog becomes anxious or stressed, you are moving too fast and need to immediately separate dogs and go back to the previous step.
It is important to never force your dog into any situation that he is not comfortable with.
Forcing a dog into a situation that causes him stress will only make his guarding behavior worse.
MY DOGS FIGHT WHEN THERE IS FOOD INVOLVED
Food is a very big trigger for dogs, and can continue to be so for a majority of some dog’s life.
Many instances of dogs fighting is related to when dogs are eating meals, treats, bones, or anything similar.
Many dog owners do not realize that food can be one of the biggest of dogs triggers to an otherwise calm dog becoming a ‘more aggressive dog’. Even dogs who are generally even-keeled can become uncomfortable with another dog getting into their space when they are eating.
TIPS FOR ELIMINATING ISSUES WITH FOOD
It is best to feed dogs in separate areas, especially if they are not used to being around each other.
If you have a multi-dog household, we recommend getting an extra food bowl and feeding station so that each dog can eat in his own space.
Crate training is an especially excellent tool to help more than two dogs stop fighting while eating. Crates help manage mealtime and feed dogs separately and safely.
This will help reduce the chances of your dogs fighting over food.
In cases where one dog consistently steals food from another dog, it is best to get a puzzle toy or slow feeder bowl to give the ‘stealer’ dog something else to do with his time besides trying to steal food.
Puzzle toys and slow feeders are a great way to keep any dog occupied and out of trouble!
DO NOT STEAL YOUR DOGS FOOD OR PUT YOUR HAND IN YOUR DOGS BOWL
Some training methods, especially in the ‘alpha‘ or ‘pack leader training’ methods will recommend that you steal your dogs food or put your hand in his bowl while he is eating as a way to show him that you are the ‘pack leader’.
This is an outdated and dangerous method that can cause your dog to become aggressive towards you or other dogs.
We do not recommend this method under any circumstances.
Instead, if your one dog is acting stressed around food, make sure to associate yourself with the ADDITION of positive treats/food. When you walk past your dog, throw a treat in his bowl or drop a few next to him so he associates you with something good happening.
Guarding food is a very natural behavior for dogs, and one that should not be punished.
In summary: apply these tips with your dogs who demonstrate stress surrounding food when around other dogs, other animals, or other people:
Avoiding triggers that may cause your dog to become aggressive
Feeding dogs in separate areas or using puzzle toys/slow feeders if they tend to steal food from each other
Never stealing your dog’s food or putting your hand in his bowl (this could trigger aggression
By using the above tips, you can help your dogs feel more comfortable around each other and reduce the chances of them fighting.
SEEKING HELP WITH DOG TRAINING FOR FOOD AGGRESSION
In cases where a dog is truly food-aggressive and fights with other dogs over food, it is best to seek professional help from a certified trainer or behaviorist who can help you safely modify your dog’s behavior.
Dogs fighting is a very serious issue that can lead to many problems, including but not limited to: severe injuries, the spread of disease, and even death.
If you have two dogs who are fighting, it is important to seek professional help as soon as possible to prevent the situation from escalating. There are an abundance of dog training resources that can help.
Fighting dogs can be a danger to themselves, each other, and any humans who try to break up the fight.
DOGS IN THE SAME HOUSEHOLD FIGHTING
Dogs tend to fight with new dogs that they do not know already, but sometimes two or more dogs of the same pack can randomly begin to fight.
If you have two dogs or even three dogs in the same house, you will need to work hard to keep the peace with the house.
Multiple dogs in one household CAN get along in a peaceful way!
With obedience training, confidence building, and strong boundaries, your dogs can get along well under one roof.
Need help with modern e collar training? Check out our guide.
TIPS TO STOP FIGHTING WITH DOGS IN THE HOUSE
If your dogs fight with one another in the house, you can work to stop fighting with a few tips.
Crate train one dog or both dogs. This will give each dog his own space and help to prevent fighting.
Do not allow either dog on the furniture. This will help to create a hierarchy in the home and prevent fighting over resources.
Be sure to feed each dog in his own area and never leave food out where they can both get to it.
Make sure each dog has his own toys and do not allow them to play with the same toy at the same time.
Do not leave your dogs unattended.
Do not let kids or small children lay on top of your dog, pull the tail of your dog or interact with your dog unattended.
Plan ahead for when new dogs will visit.
Work with a dog trainer and animal behaviorist to help your dogs remain peaceful in the home.
MY DOG FIGHTS WITH NEW DOGS
If your dog fights with new dogs that it is unfamiliar with, it is likely because it is afraid but there are also other reasons:
Older Dog: Sometimes with an older dog, you might find that they no longer have the same interest as a younger dog to interact with dogs anymore.
Young Dog: Some young dogs have not been properly socialized and therefore might try to fight with new dogs.
Dog Parks: Dog parks can be a great place to socialize your dog, but they can also be a place where dogs fight. If you take your dog to the dog park, be sure to keep an eye on him at all times.
Barking: Dogs will often bark and lunge at other dogs when they are on a leash because they feel restrained and unable to escape. If your dog is barking and lunging at other dogs while on a leash, it is important to work with a professional trainer to help your dog overcome this behavior.
Reactivity: Reactivity is when a dog is overly sensitive to stimuli in its environment. Dogs who are reactive may bark, growl, lunge, or even bite in response to things that trigger their fear or anxiety. If your dog is reactive, it is important to work with a certified trainer or behaviorist to help your dog learn how to cope with the things that trigger its reactivity.
Fearful Dogs: Fearful dogs are often the ones who start fights with other dogs because they are trying to defend themselves. If your dog is fearful of other dogs, it is important to work with a certified trainer or behaviorist to help your dog overcome its fear.
Anxiety: Anxiety is a condition that can cause a variety of different behaviors in dogs, including aggression. If your dog is anxious, it is important to work with a certified trainer or behaviorist to help your dog learn how to cope with its anxiety.
Depending on the cause of the reactivity and aggression, most dogs if not all dogs can be rehabilitated and will be able to exist with any other dog without breaking out in fights.
TIPS FOR PREVENTING DOG BITES
The best way to prevent dog bites is to educate yourself and others about how to interact safely with dogs.
Here are some tips:
Never approach a dog you do not know, even if he seems friendly. Ask the owner first if it’s okay to pet the dog.
When meeting a new dog, let him sniff your closed hand before petting him.
Don’t bother a dog who is eating, sleeping, or playing with a toy.
Dogs can get jealous when you give attention to other dogs, so always ask the owner before petting another dog.
Never pull on a dog’s tail or ears, and never try to pick up a dog against his will.
Respect a dog’s personal space and do not invade it.
Never approach a strange dog from behind as this may startle him.
If you see a fight between two dogs, do not try to break it up yourself. Dogs can become aggressive when they are afraid or feel threatened, so it is best to call animal control or the police for help.
HELPING DOGS BE SUCCESSFUL ON LEASH
If you have worked with a dog trainer, you have probably heard that you should not let your dog interact with other dogs while on leash.
The reason being is that dogs on leash often feel threatened and anxious, which can lead to aggression.
However, there are ways that you can help your dog be successful when interacting with other dogs while on leash:
Make sure that your dog is well-socialized so that he knows how to interact appropriately with other dogs.
Be aware of your dog’s body language and look for signs of stress or anxiety. If you see these signs, it is best to move away from the other dog.
Ensure that your dog has a good foundation of obedience commands such as sit, stay, come, and down. This will help you keep control of your dog if he does become excited or reactive around another dog.
Do not approach other dogs on leash or let the two dogs interact with one another while on leash.
Participate in on leash walks where the dogs do not interact, but rather learn how to exist with one another without playing, lunging or biting.
WHAT TO DO IF YOUR DOG ATTACKS ANOTHER DOG
First and foremost, if your dog attacks another dog, it can be very scary.
Try not to panic.
Also, do not try to separate fighting dogs, especially with your hands.
Try to make loud noises and get the dogs’ attention by spraying them with water from a hose or throwing objects near them.
Only once the dogs have stopped fighting should you try to separate them.
Then, take your dog to the vet for a check-up, even if he seems fine.
Afterward, make sure to consult with a certified animal behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist to help you and your dog work through any issues that may have caused the aggression.
It is also important to talk to your veterinarian about what happened and ask for their advice on how to prevent it from happening again in the future including asking them if they have any recommendations for fear training and obedience training. Your vet might have great suggestions for a certified professional dog trainer.
Dogs are complex creatures and there can be many different reasons why they fight with other dogs. However, by understanding the causes of aggression and working on prevention.
Some parents like to be prepared with items such as loud horns, dog versions of pepper spray, or other tools in case their dog ever gets into a fight with another dog.
If you choose to carry any of these items, make sure to familiarize yourself with how to use them before you need to use them in an emergency situation.
Remember, the best way to prevent your dog from fighting with another dog is to be proactive and understand the causes of aggression. If you can identify the triggers for your dog’s aggression, you can work on prevention and management so that your dog can live a happy and healthy life.
WHAT TO DO IF YOUR DOG GETS ATTACKED
If your dog gets attacked, do not forget to get the contact information from the owner of the attacker.
Not only is it important for potential vet bills, but you will want to verify that their dog is up to date on its vaccines.
Next, try to get to the vet immediately. Getting to the veterinarian immediately is important because your dog will need to be checked for injuries, given a round of antibiotics to prevent infection, and possibly have x-rays taken if there are any broken bones.
If your dog has been attacked by another dog, it is important to take some time to understand what may have caused the attack.
It is also important to work on prevention so that it does not happen again in the future.
There are many different resources available to help you do this including books, online articles, and even working with a certified professional dog trainer or behaviorist.
While an attack can be frightening, it is important to remember that most dogs do not want to hurt other dogs and that with some training and understanding, you can help your dogs stay safe.
MY MALE DOG IS AGGRESSIVE
Male dogs can be aggressive for many different reasons.
Some male dogs are aggressive due to dominance, while others may be acting out because they are afraid or in pain.
Other males may have been poorly socialized as puppies or have a history of abuse or neglect.
If your male dog is displaying signs of aggression, it is important to consult with a certified animal behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist who can help you create a treatment plan specifically for your dog.
In some cases, medication may be necessary in order to help your dog feel more relaxed and comfortable around other dogs. However, medication should always be a resort taken after training.
Some male dogs mount female dogs when they are over stimulated and this should be avoided. Keep your male dogs separately from female dogs if they are not spayed.
MY FEMALE DOG IS AGGRESSIVE
Female dogs are known more for fighting with dogs that are the same sex as themselves.
This is because females are often more territorial and want to protect their home and resources from other females.
However, any dog can be aggressive regardless of sex.
If your female dog is displaying signs of aggression, it is important to consult with a certified animal behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist who can help you create a treatment plan specifically for your dog.
If your female dog is aggressive toward any other dog, work on setting intense boundaries, crate training and seeking help from a balanced trainer.
MY DOG HAS SEPARATION ANXIETY
Separation anxiety is a type of anxiety that occurs when a dog is away from their owner.
This can be caused by many different things including prior abandonment, neglect, or abuse. It can also be caused by dogs not being given enough independent time, which is why crate training is so important.
Dogs with separation anxiety often display signs of distress such as barking, howling, chewing, pacing, and destruction when left alone.
If your dog has separation anxiety, it is important to consult with a certified animal behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist who can help you create a treatment plan specifically for your dog.
Treatment plans for separation anxiety often include medication, crate training, and providing your dog with toys and bones that are only given to them when you leave the house.
With some time and patience, most dogs with separation anxiety can be cured and be confident being by themselves.
MY OLDER DOG IS SUDDENLY AGGRESSIVE
If you have an older dog that is suddenly demonstrating signs of aggressive behavior, it is important to take them to the vet for a check-up.
Older dogs can become aggressive due to many different things including pain, cognitive decline, and sensory issues.
Since dogs cannot talk, they sometimes resort to other forms of communication to express their pain. Their pain could be stemming from:
Once you have ruled out any medical causes, it is important to consult with a certified animal behaviorist or behaviorist who can help you create a treatment plan specifically for your dog.
Treatment plans for older dogs that are suddenly aggressive often include medication, crate training, obedience training, and providing your dog with plenty of mental and physical stimulation.
With some time and patience, most older dogs that are demonstrating signs of aggression can be helped with these treatment plans.
IN CONCLUSION
There are many different reasons why dogs may become aggressive. However, with some patience and training, most dogs can be taught to control their aggression. If you are struggling to stop your dog from being aggressive, it is important to consult with a certified animal behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist who can help you create a treatment plan specifically for your dog. With some time and effort, you and your dog can overcome this obstacle and have a happy and healthy life together. Thanks for reading! I hope this article was helpful. 🙂
If you have any questions or would like to share your own experiences with dog aggression, please leave a comment below! I would love to hear from you.
Do you like modern positive+balanced off-leash dog training, science-based information, life with Danes, educated ownership and chatting with other like-minded people?
Today, we’ll be providing a comprehensive Gentle Giants dog food review, offering fresh insights to help you make an informed decision when choosing food for your Great Dane or other giant breed dog. We are experts in large and giant breed dogs, and share science-backed information!
This review is part of our ongoing series on dry dog food.
Here are some things I will cover in our Gentle Giants review:
Where Gentle Giants dog food is manufactured
If Gentle Giants food will make your dog live longer
The carbohydrate content of Gentle Giants dog food
Whether or not Gentle Giants can be fed to puppies
Our opinion on the quality of this pet food brand
Science and research behind dog nutrition
Gentle Giant Dog Food Ingredient Analysis
Here is a list of the ingredients in Gentle Giants’ chicken dog food formula. While they have other formulas, they are all comparable. For this review, chicken and rice will be used as an example.
Author’s Note: It’s important to note that we are not Veterinary Nutritionists, so our assessment is limited to a cursory examination, and we cannot provide a definitive judgment on commercial dog food recipes or the specific ingredients in this formula.
The addition of fruits and vegetablesin Gentle Giants is a marketing gimmick; the amounts of each of these would be so low that they essentially amount to fairy dust. Each one is listed after salt in the ingredients, which means they make up less than 1% of the final formula.
Green Lipped Mussel has some promising indications for joint health, but as with fruits and vegetables in this formula, there is very little of this product in the final food. It is unlikely to have any benefit at all.
According to Gentle Giants, this food is classified as a “natural formula” designed to offer balanced nutrition for dogs of all ages and sizes.
Carb Content of Gentle Giants Dog Food
It does appear to be high in starchy ingredients such as barley, brown rice, oatmeal, and peas, especially compared to many other dog foods and dry food recipes.
Brown rice is an excellent example of a typical healthy grain in Gentle Giant Dog food. Brown Rice may contain higher levels of arsenic than white rice, so brown rice must be included thoughtfully and only from companies that do a lot of product lab testing during and after production. It is unclear what their testing processes are.
This puts Gentle Giants dog food at a much higher carb content than Purina One Large Breed Chicken and Rice, which lands at 44% carbs, and higher than Purina Dog Chow Chicken which lands at 51% carbs.
This means that the Gentle Giants formula has LESS meat than other more established and known pet food brands.
It is priced at $44 U.S.D. for 30 pounds.
Author’s note: Purina Puppy/Dog Chow is $28 for 40 lbs. It’s a less expensive food by far, yet, has a lower carbohydrate content than Gentle Giants.
Dog Chow also has an insane amount of research (including lifetime feeding trials) behind the formulation. If you would not feed Purina Dog Chow to your pet, you should begin to recognize how Gentle Giants is unquestionably the lower quality option between the two.
Where is Gentle Giants Dog Food Manufactured
As of this update (2024), it is believed that Gentle Giants Pet foods are manufactured by Consumers Supply Distribution in Sioux City, Iowa. It is made in the U.S.A.
While marketing would like to lead consumers to believe otherwise, Gentle Giant pet food is a classic example of a mass-manufactured brand coming from a co-packing factory that is responsible for hundreds of other labels, formulas, and products.
Because it is unclear where Gentle Giants Dog food is made, I did a deep dive for this blog post!
Gentle Giants has a video on their website showing how their food is manufactured.
It starts with sweeping views of a factory, where a computer-generated version of their logo appears on the signage and distribution trucks. This would be believable to the untrained eye, but once you realize what is happening, it is clear that they are attempting to white-label the factory.
The video takes us inside the facility where this dog food is made, and we can see employees wearing “Consumers Supply” polo shirts.
Gentle Giants do NOT manufacture their food; they contract it out. While this is an acceptable albeit sub-standard practice (it’s better to choose pet foods coming from owned manufacturing facilities with strict quality control and dedication to the safety and bioavailability of the final product), it’s so much worse that they attempt to lie about it!
Consumers Supply manufactures and distributes several products that service the pet, wildlife, and livestock industries including food, minerals, salts, bird seed, and even rope and twine. They are commissioned by companies to make and distribute products and have no affiliation otherwise with the mission or branding of the product being sold.
Is Gentle Giants dog food made in China?
No, it is made in the U.S. However, most, if not all dog food companies (even ‘natural’ ones) source vitamins and minerals from other countries (including China).
Many people believe that their dog has grain allergies, however, this condition is exceedingly rare. Grains provide important nutrients and energy that dogs need to thrive.
Unfortunately, many grain-free dry dog foods have been associated with a preventable and deadly form of heart disease. We do not recommend feeding grain-free dry diets to dogs.
Is Gentle Giants dog food holistic?
The term ‘holistic’ is a marketing term that is not regulated. It’s made up!
Anybody can claim that the food they make and sell is “holistic”. It’s a catchy term that encourages well-meaning pet parents to make a purchase.
Holistic should imply that a food is formulated to treat the “whole body”.
Any good science-backed food would thus, actually be holistic. Comprehensive veterinary care including prevention is thus, holistic.
Gentle Giants dog food does claim to be “holistic”. Take that with a grain of salt. It doesn’t mean anything.
Gentle Giants is an “All Life Stages” food, meaning that it’s formulated for puppies and adults.
All Life Stages foods are essentially puppy foods. This can be okay in some cases, but in others, it’s simply a way for companies to minimize the need for different formulations, bags, and feeding trials.
When evaluating whether a food is appropriate for a large or giant breed puppy, it is critical to assess the calcium and phosphorus levels.
An appropriate food for a big puppy will have 1.2% or less calcium, a CA/PH ratio of as close to 1:1 as possible, and 3.5g or less calcium per 1000 kCal. It will also have the AAFCO large breed growth statement.
Ideally, the food will have also undergone feeding trials, extensive lab testing, and research, proving the availability of other important bone-growth nutrients such as Vitamin D, zinc, and phosphorus. From what we can tell, Gentle Giant’s food has not been subjected to rigorous and thorough testing.
Gentle Giants Chicken and Rice does have the AAFCO Large Breed Growth statement, indicating that the calcium level is expected to be 1.8% or less.
However, it is impossible to find calcium and phosphorus levels for this food. Without this information published and easy to find, we cannot verify that the food is 1.2% or less (the value recommended for giant breed puppies in particular). Additionally, we can not calculate how much calcium is in 1000 kCal of Gentle Giants puppy food.
As above, the food is co-packed in a massive manufacturing facility that makes many other brands and labels. This facility is probably responsible for the nutritional formulation as well, yet there is no indication of the qualifications of the individuals overseeing this process.
Tread cautiously when choosing to feed this food to a large or giant breed dog under the age of 2.
Incorrect nutritional values in puppyhood can increase the risk of dysplasia, bone damage, painful growth disorders, and even osteosarcoma bone cancer or wobblers disease!
Behind the Gentle Giants Food Brand
Our Gentle Giants dog food review would be incomplete without some information about what goes on behind the brand.
Not only does this food come with bold, in-your-face marketing geared toward pet owners with gentle giants, but it also has some interesting stories behind it. Read on, friends.
The Gentle Giants Rescue
Burt Ward (the owner of this brand) has been rescuing dogs with his wife in California for decades.
This unusual rescue makes wild claims about the longevity of the dogs (20+ years in some cases) living on their “all-natural dog food“, and says they have rescued over 14,000 pets.
Meanwhile, as of this writing, they have no animals available for adoption.
Many of the ‘available’ breeds they offer via this rescue are unusual and rare, including Staghounds, Xolo, “woodles”, and Saluki. They have had many, many litters of puppies, too.
Many people, including us, believe that this ‘rescue’ operation is nothing more than a glorified puppy mill.
They claim that 30-40 dogs live with them in “peace and harmony” on their property and that all are seniors exceeding their normal lifespan because of their “world-classfood and training program”.
There are many verifiable reports of neglect, poor living conditions, and uncontrolled dogs breeding at will in the unsupervised ‘Gentle Giants’ pack.
People seem to associate ‘celebrity’ with ‘trustworthy’.
Burt Ward played Robin in the 1960s Batman TV series.
That doesn’t make him a nutrition expert, last we checked…
Is Gentle Giants Dog Food Good?
We don’t stand behind any dry dog food that doesn’t stand with science. It’s that simple. The people behind Gentle Giants dog food do not participate in research, studies, or food trials.
The only “proof” they have of the efficacy and safety of their food is the claims made that their pack of “rescue” dogs are all over the age of 10.
A cursory glance at dog food reviews of this product indicates that some people have had no trouble feeding this food and swear by it while others experienced blood in the urine, inflammation, loose stools, and itching.
Has Gentle Giants Food Ever Been Recalled?
As of this writing, it appears that Gentle Giants food has never been recalled.
We see this as a red flag. Why?
A company that will recall its food is a company that wants to control the quality and the consistency, even if the problem that led to the recall is minor.
When a company has never issued a recall, voluntary or otherwise, you can pretty much bet that they are casually overlooking some things so that they can continue to say ‘no recalls’ in their marketing.
Boutique Dog Foods vs. Science
Boutique ‘feel good’ dog foods, including Gentle Giants, rely on careful marketing to sell the brand.
They tend to use buzzwords such as “human grade”, “all-natural”, “no recalls”, “super-premium”, or “holistic”. This can lead consumers to feel that they are purchasing something healthier for their pet (even if no actual health benefits have been proven by any legitimate science).
Even the word “farm-raised chicken” is meant to evoke a certain feeling or emotion about the food. All chickens are raised on farms!
Common ’boutique’ companies that you may have heard of or seen include Fromm, Orijen, 4Health, Halo, Solid Gold, Nulo, Nutro, Zignature, The Farmer’s Dog, Muenster, and Life’s Abundance.
What’s interesting about boutique dog food is that, despite the health claims they make, there is very little science going into the food itself.
Many people are shocked to learn that very few (if any) boutique food companies have a legitimate nutritionist formulating their foods. In many cases, the person making the recipe is even less qualified than a veterinarian.
For example, Fromm (who relies on the ‘ family-owned’ mantra to sell food) is formulated by a chemical engineer.
Victor Foods are formulated by somebody with a master in science and an online certificate in dairy cattle nutrition.
Diamond brand foods (including Taste of the Wild, Costco/Kirkland, Diamond, and Nutra Nuggets) are formulated by a computer and packaged in different bags to appeal to different markets.
Boutique brands also don’t participate in nutrition research and science. In many cases, the pet foods they make are only “formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by AAFCO”, on paper.
This sounds great, but all that means is that on paper they’ve added enough nutrients to satisfy a minimum legal guideline. It doesn’t mean that they’ve tested and proven the formulation itself.
So when a brand is telling you they are “super-premium” and “holistic”, ask yourself if you are being sold to, or if that food has legitimate science backing its claims of being “healthier”.
Want to see how YOUR current dog food stacks up? Visit the Pet Nutrition Alliance and look your brand up.
Each food company was asked to provide information about just a few key things, including who formulates their food.
You’ll notice that many boutique dog food brands refused to share the requested information because it is damning to their brand.
We smell something fishy here, folks, and it’s not the fish meal in your bag of kibble.
The Great Grain-Free Debate
So what is inherently wrong with a “super-premium”, “natural” dog food from a boutique company, anyways? Let’s talk for a moment about the great grain-free pet food debate.
Many otherwise ‘healthy’ shiny dogs ‘with good poop’ who randomly die while playing or after going for a walk have been diagnosed with, or even passed from DCM, and the owners never knew something was wrong.
No official pre-death diagnosis means that very little data is collected on the dogs who die this way. The devastated owners move on with their lives, assuming that their dog had a genetic problem. Veterinarians around the country are seeing it happen over and over again.
While genetics do play a role in primary DCM, secondary DCM is believed to be caused by unbalanced nutrition. These dogs are essentially starved for certain amino acids and micro-nutrients: the heart enlarges and eventually gives out.
This brings us back to the fact that a sound majority of boutique dog food brands do not employ a board-certified veterinary nutritionist to formulate their food. This includes Gentle Giants.
As a Great Dane owner, you could not PAY me to feed Gentle Giants dog food.
Nutritional levels established by AAFCO
AAFCO is a non-profit agency that works in tandem with government regulatory agencies. Regulatory agencies moderate and enforce nutrition and food safety, and AAFCO was established to help with definitions and requirements.
The AAFCO label on every dog food bag is there to help you establish if the formula is correct for your dog.
All of this canine nutrition information can be frustrating and alarming to Great Dane owners who want to choose the best foods for their giant dogs!
We recommend picking a highly-researched, truly science-backed brand that employs highly qualified professionals (Veterinary Nutritionists) to formulate their food.
Find out if the formulations from those brands are substantiated in actual food tests, or if they just look correct on paper.
Ask if the brand has made any contributions to widely accepted canine nutrition science (the very science that has also now made it possible to feed Great Danes puppy food instead of adult food, YAY!).
Contrary to what small boutique brands want you to believe, the blueberries and spinach they have added in minuscule amounts to make you ‘feel good’ are doing nothing but lining their pockets.
If you want your dog to have blueberries, toss a few whole ones into their food, instead! Serving a balanced meal is important, however, so no matter what, make sure that toppers make up less than 10% of your dog’s overall dry dog food diet.
We recommend Large Breed Purina Pro Plan (puppy or adult, salmon recipe) or Royal Canin Giant Breed foods as the gold standard in healthy, highly researched dog foods for your gentle giant. However, Eukanuba and Iams have solid choices for you as well, at all price points!
Picky dogs hate their food after a short time. If you have a picky gentle giant, we recommend sticking with the same food, avoiding bribery, and making food FUN by offering it in puzzles or for training.
Senior dogs may eat less, too. Don’t mistake this natural behavior for ‘pickiness’.
The Dog Food Advisor Blog
Many people turn to the Dog Food Advisor blog for information about choosing pet food. It’s one of the top blogs to show up on a Google search when looking for dog food reviews!
The Dog Food Advisor rates the Gentle Giants brand as 4/5 stars and considers it an ‘above average dry product’ with a ‘moderate amount of meat’.
Here is the thing about the Dog Food Advisor. That blog was created by a human dentist with absolutely no credentials at all in veterinary nutrition. The rating system is made up.
Of course, we aren’t veterinary nutritionists either. But unlike the Dog Food Advisor, we aren’t making up a ratings system. Our evaluation of food is based purely on nutrition science and company manufacturing practices and ethics.
We align ourselves with veterinarians and veterinary nutritionists, for a reason. Our recommendations may not “look pretty” and “feel good” like the ones on the Dog Food Advisor, but we can confidently state that our information is based on science, NOT what results in more clicks and traffic.
That said, the Dog Food Advisor does rate Pro Plan as a top pick on its ‘recommended foods list’, and states that it is one of the only brands highly tested and formulated by a team of veterinary nutritionists. They are correct about that.
Our Rating of Gentle Giants Dog Food
This is one food we think you should skip.
No science.
Wild and questionable marketing claims about longevity (“Your dog can live longer!”).
Affiliated with a sketchy ‘giant breed rescue’ (very likely a puppy mill, but at the least nothing more than a wild pack of dogs that are fed out of trash cans and left to their own devices).
Unclear calcium/phosphorus levels.
Co-packed in a random factory.
Higher carb content than “low quality” Purina Dog Chow.
Electronic collar training, often referred to as “e-collar” training, is a modern method used to train dogs. Unfortunately, it is riddled with myths and misconceptions that can cloud the understanding of this tool’s actual purpose and effectiveness. In this article, we will debunk some of the common E-collar training myths and shed light on the responsible and humane use of electronic collars in dog training.
It’s essential to separate fact from fiction to make informed decisions about this training technique!
What is an E-Collar?
An electronic collar, commonly known as an e-collar or shock collar, is a device designed for dog training and behavior modification. It consists of a collar that fits around a dog’s neck and a handheld remote control.
The primary function of an e-collar is to deliver electronic stimulation. This tactile sensation is a powerful way to communicate with a dog from afar, and it doesn’t have to be painful or unfair.
While the term “shock collar” may sound harsh, it’s important to note that modern e-collars have evolved significantly and offer adjustable levels of stimulation, allowing trainers to use them in a more humane and controlled manner. These devices are not meant to harm or punish the dog but rather to provide clear and consistent communication during training sessions.
When used responsibly, e-collars can be effective tools for teaching dogs to obey commands, prevent certain behaviors, and enhance their overall safety and well-being. However, it’s crucial to emphasize that e-collar training should always be carried out by knowledgeable and experienced trainers who prioritize the dog’s comfort and safety.
Think of it as a wireless leash, but without the physical restraint of a flat collar or harness that can be dangerous or damaging to you or your Great Dane. Today we are going to share 6 E-Collar Training myths that you MUST know about!
Modern Day E-Collars vs. Shock Collars
Many people are confused about the difference between a shock collar and an E-Collar. The difference is HUGE!
A shock collar will deliver a sharp zapping sensation that is meant to be aversive and painful. They are often inexpensive and may lack reliability.
Many people who resort to shock training are at their “wit’s end” with their pet’s behavior, and looking to get their attention with a beep, vibrate, or shock. Negative body language (cowering, running away, yelping, avoidance) is often seen!
E-Collars are different. Also known as “remote electric training collars”, they use electricity to stimulate the muscle. The sensation from a modern E-Collar is a touch sensation that is not meant to be aversive or painful
At low levels, where most pets are responsive, the sensation is imperceptible to humans. At higher levels, it can feel like tiny ants crawling around or a twitch or tickle, not a shock. At the highest levels, it is uncomfortable, but not sharp.
E-Collars offer a versatile, humane, gentle tactile communication that dogs respond to with enthusiasm and positivity!
The exchange of occasional, low-level muscle stimulation, that the dog knows how to turn off, is such an incredible, elegant, and simple trade-off for having absolutely NO leash pressure, no restrictions to movement, and the ability to run, jump, zoom, circle, sniff and explore naturally.
Why are dog E-Collars controversial?
E-Collars are controversial because people don’t understand them.
‘Positive only’ and ‘Force-free’ trainers use a lot of poorly done studies and emotional marketing to promote the idea that electronic training collars are abusive, no matter what.
They believe that shock collar training and e-collar training are the same things (they aren’t!) and that both tools are used deliberately and unfairly to hurt, scare, punish and confuse dogs.
The truth is that incorrect use of poor shock devices can and do cause pain and behavioral problems. No legitimate, ethical and professional dog trainer will recommend a shock collar, especially not to harshly punish aggression and reactivity.
The studies and case studies that people often cite in reference to electric training collars and similar tools (such as prongs) are typically based on harsh or punitive training and other incorrect use scenarios.
E-Collars are very different than shock collars. Many balanced trainers use and recommend high-quality E-Collars for off-leash reliability. The controversial part is that people just don’t know or understand the difference between correct use and abuse.
E-Collars are a communication tool that provides clarity and guidance, not confusion. Using this training tool correctly is all about providing information.
The end goal of proper e-collar training is to give your pet more autonomy, choice, and enrichment, without relying on physical restraint or harsh corrections.
Despite the controversy surrounding remote collar training, the truth is that dogs correctly and thoughtfully taught with this method are confident, balanced, obedient, and have more freedom and autonomy than others can only dream of.
We believe that reward-based training paired with thoughtfully balanced techniques (including e-collars and prong collars) can keep thousands (if not millions) of bored, ‘stubborn’ dogs out of shelters, too.
Myth #1: E-Collars make your dog afraid of you
We highly recommend watching Larry Krohn e collar training videos on his Youtube channel. He has an insane library of content where you can see videos of pets being trained with E-collars who are confident, friendly, and not afraid of Larry Krohn at all.
One mistake many pet owners make when training their dogs with a shock collar is that they rely on it as a punishment tool. Many feel guilty about that so they begin waving the remote as a threat, hoping to stop an act before resorting to zap corrections.
With the aforementioned approach, the pet quickly learns that the remote means they are in trouble. They don’t often know why, only that they should run away. This can make it appear that a remote collar-wearing dog is afraid of its owner!
What’s worse is that teaching an animal to fear the remote and the collar means teaching them run away from the owner, rather than to recall, check-in, and engage.
Correct modern e-collar training relies on both parties involved having mutual respect for each other, and that includes a recall (coming when called) foundation that is rock solid. The remote tool becomes a cell phone, not a big stick that you beat your dog with.
The remote tool and the collar should not be used as threats or for punitive punishments, and if you watch videos of animals being thoughtfully and correctly E-Collar trained you will see positive body language, mutual respect, and enthusiasm.
Train your companion with communication, not fear.
Myth #2: E-Collars burn dog’s necks
While a cheap shock collar can cause damage to the neck, it is impossible for an E-Collar to burn skin. This is another wild myth often promoted by people who have never even felt the stimulation from an E-Collar themselves.
We are a science-based blog, so let’s dig into this!
Cheap shock training devices from Amazon can malfunction, run hot, and shock your dog at the wrong time. Those collars can absolutely cause damage.
An E-Collar from a reputable, high-quality company such as Educator Technologies will cost $175 or more to purchase, and with good reason. Reliability and modern tech are huge when it comes to training ethically and humanely with any kind of remote collar.
The technology that uses electric currents for muscle stimulation (from an E-Collar) is more advanced than the technology required to deliver a sharp static zap (from a cheap shock device).
It’s the difference between buying an old used Samsung s3 and buying an iPhone 13, only this is used to train your dog (not flip through Tik Tok).
Because the electric output of modern electronic collars is less than .01amp at the highest level, it is impossible for this training tool to burn a dog’s skin.
Remember, this modern version uses electrical currents to stimulate the muscle, not cause pain.
Incorrect use of ANY remote collar, however, CAN lead to pressure sores. The contact points are made of metal and can be an irritant when they aren’t rotated and kept clean. This is not unlike a poorly fit harness or head collar, which can cause rubbing and sores too.
User error is a problem resolved only by education and dedication (hence the reason we are here)!
To eliminate the chance of irritation and pressure sores, the collar must be fit correctly (snug, preferably with a bungee collar), the contact points must be kept clean, and the collar must be rotated or removed every few hours.
Electric training collars should never be worn overnight or unsupervised. For pets with sensitive skin, contact points made of different materials are available to try.
This is true of shock devices, for which the only purpose is to punish, scare, and correct.
A properly used E-Collar on the other hand can provide guidance that will improve your relationship and provide your pet with enrichment and opportunities that only a well-behaved dog can have.
With E-Collar training, it’s important that your pup understands what the stimulation sensation means. Through a fun training process using basic obedience commands and conditioning, your dog learns how to respond to and be in control of the sensation.
The dog becomes a willing and active participant in the training.
This pressure becomes a communication, not a punishment, and the pup knows that it means good things to them. Training starts with a good foundation and lots of fun, not harsh punishment or ‘trigger happy’ corrections.
The application of E-Collar pressure is no more “inhumane” than the pressure from a leash and harness; the only difference is that there is no longer a reliance on physical restraint and thus, no damage to the neck, head, or shoulders. The pressure is ‘virtual’, in other words!
Your pet will be able to make choices and move freely, all in exchange for communication from their ‘wireless device’. With this method, the dog dictates every move, free of restraint and you can communicate using a language they understand.
A dog on a long line does not behave the same way as a dog off-leash using a modern wireless tool.
A dog on a long line cannot zoom, spin circles, safely play or climb on, around, or under trees.
Sniffing is great and awesome for dogs, calming, and extremely beneficial for helping them settle and lower their heart rates, but that should not be the only goal! The proper use of modern tools can offer both the “sniffari” and much-needed off-leash enrichment.
The proper fit of a comfortable E-Collar bungee strap: snug with two fingers of room.
The long line should be a backup, when required to satisfy leash laws. When possible, however, it should not be the only way that your Dane gets all of its enrichment and ‘free movement’.
A Dane getting tangled up in a long line is dangerous to you and to themselves.
The E-Collar training method is extremely effective, and those being trained correctly on modern, high-quality remote collars show positive body language and excitement. They can easily be redirected away from incorrect activities, too.
Can an E-collar be used at aversive levels to punish or correct a dog? Absolutely.
But there is a huge difference between punitive corrections and thoughtfully balancing ‘yes and no’ with rewards and the occasional use of an E-Collar correction.
A harlequin Great Dane wearing a remote electric wireless collar and enjoying a creek!
Myth #4: E-Collar training is not ‘science-based’
Well, where do we start! Buckle up, this is a big one.
Many ‘positive-only’ trainers claim to be ‘science-based’. This statement they use in their marketing comes from studies that have shown how positive reinforcement, aka “R+” (the quadrant, not the training method) is the most humane and effective technique for training new behaviors.
We LOVE using R+ to instill tricks, obedience, and confidence!
Positive reinforcement is not the same thing as ‘positive-only’ training, however.
One is a key piece of operant conditioning and a huge part of any good training program. The latter (positive-only or force-free training) is a training method.
The training method of ‘positive-only’ uses a lot of R+ to reward behaviors.
So does balanced training, actually.
The best trainers use a lot of R+ in their techniques, no matter where they fall on the positive to balanced spectrum (and yes, there is a spectrum! No wonder dog training is so confusing to people).
R+ is not some magical or exclusive gem that only “science-based positive trainers” use and live by. All good trainers use positive reinforcement whether they market themselves as ‘force-free’ or ‘balanced’.
Catch our drift, yet? ‘Science-based’ has been diluted to a marketing term in this case, and as a truly science-based blog, that makes us uncomfortable!
To better understand how canine learning science works, and why ‘balanced’ training is not abusive or inhumane as some people may have led you to believe, here is a little lesson for you!
There are four quadrants of operant conditioning, and people (including ‘professionals’) misunderstand them often. We get it, these can be confusing. BUT, in the interest of science, we’re going to dig in!
Here they are in layman’s terms!
Dictionary, for the purpose of understanding the four quadrants of operant conditioning in dog training:
POSITIVE = To add something NEGATIVE = To take something away REINFORCEMENT = To increase a behavior PUNISHMENT = To reduce a behavior
Positive Reinforcement (R+) = The dog gets a treat for sitting
Positive Punishment (P+) = The dog is hit in the face for barking
Negative Reinforcement (R-) = A barrier is removed when the dog waits calmly to go outside
Negative Punishment (P-) = Freedom is removed so the dog can’t run away
R+ should always be used to reward and encourage the repetition of all new skills!
This includes the obedience commands sit, down, wait, leave it, come, heel and place.
However, all dogs, even “good” ones, do things they shouldn’t do.
That includes pulling, barking, lunging, bolting out the door, chasing cats, stealing food, jumping the fence, and running away.
As a Great Dane owner, you have likely experienced some of this!
Many of these things are unsafe and even life-threatening, however, they are all normal dog behaviors!
The first step to combat this is, of course, using R+ to train the dog on what they should be doing instead. You cannot combat shenanigans unless you are willing to teach the dog with rewards, fun, praise and play what it should know!
Pulling: teach heel with high-value treats Stealing: teach “leave-it” with a toy and some kibble Door Dashing: teach the dog to turn away from open doors
Despite this training, however, many dogs will still unsafely bolt out a door, jump on somebody, pull on the lead after a squirrel, or blow off a recall…no matter how many treats you offer.
You know, because…DOGS are DOGS and they are going to do doggie things!
Did we mention this other scientific tidbit? For many dogs, chasing a squirrel or experiencing the freedom offered by door dashing is infinitely MORE rewarding than any treat you can offer.
This leaves all dog lovers, even those who believe ONLY using ‘R+’, with two options to fix the problem:
a. Negative Punishment: Remove choice, freedom, and access to things as a means to decrease something the dog does or is doing. This is essentially “management” to prevent behaviors and may need to be implemented for the life of the dog.
AND / OR
b. Positive Punishment: Add a correction (NO!) so the dog understands they cannot do something. A correction could be anything from a simple ‘ah ah’ to flat out hitting the dog in the face.
Not all corrections have to be painful or abusive. If the bank give you a $35 fine (bummer!) for bouncing a check, they’ve used positive punishment. It didn’t hurt you, but it will make you think twice about forgetting to balance your checkbook again!
Punishment abounds in dog training whether people admit it or not. Here are some examples:
Keeping a dog on a tether in a fenced yard because they escape (negative punishment)
Putting a dog behind a gate because they jump on guests (negative punishment)
A no-pull harness pulls the dog to the side if they lunge forward (positive punishment)
Science-based fact: even ‘positive only’ and ‘force free’ people use punishment in their training. This includes the use of training tools that punish and reduce behaviors, despite their promotion that ‘all punishment is abusive‘. ?
Another interesting science-based fact: modern E-Collar use relies primarily on negative reinforcement to reward and strengthen behaviors. Yay science!
Good, thoughtful balanced E-Collar trainers rarely use their E-Collar for corrections (“positive punishment“). If they do, it’s most often as communication to immediately stop a dangerous or unsafe behavior in dogs that know what they should be doing instead.
Unlike traditional punishment, this is one correction that a properly conditioned and trained dog knows how to respond to and control!
There is nothing wrong with thoughtfully implemented corrections, including behavior management.
Run from any “professional” trainer who tells you that all “balanced” professionals abuse, hurt and punish animals all day. This is misguided, uneducated, and inflammatory language.
Run further if a professional will claim to “never use punishment, corrections, or ‘negative reinforcement’ of any kind“. That is a clear sign that they don’t actually understand science or how tools and techniques, including the tools that they use, actually work.
Run just as far if the details they share indicate that you should shock, choke, kick, alpha-roll or hit to treat your dog’s reactivity. Remember, extremes are bad news!
Dogs have no clue why they are always on a long leash or never get to go on walks.
Isolation, physical restraint, and restrictions are sometimes necessary, but they are not actually clear or fair communication when you really search and start to think about it.
Strict behavioral management in the name of ‘errorless learning’ is the basis of ‘force-free’ training programs. Training dogs is so much more complicated than just ‘R+’, as you can see.
The marketing of “force-free” dog training and its overwhelming reliance on management to avoid corrections can be just as inhumane and unfair to a dog as harsh and punitive shock punishments.
It’s time we talk about that, folks!!!!
Good trainers will recognize that it requires skill to thoughtfully manage dog behavior, and will make the most ethical and humane choice for a dog between management and fair corrections.
In other words, while behavior management is an important piece of the training puzzle, there are times when it’s more humane, ethical, and fair to use a correction (and communicate, fully) than it is to rely on confinement and restrictions.
For example, just because a dolphin in captivity can be taught using ‘R+ only’, it doesn’t mean that keeping the dolphin in strict captivity is fair.
A captive marine animal cannot exhibit natural behaviors such as hunting and freely swimming long distances. These are behaviors for which “R+” on its own would be wildly ineffective in reducing.
These natural behaviors don’t have to be reduced because the animal is too confined to do them in the first place. It’s easy to avoid mistakes that happen with natural behavior when you don’t have the opportunity to act naturally in the first place.
Millions of dogs are living the life of the captive dolphin because so many owners and dog professionals market the misguided idea that you should just further manage (restrict) your dog instead of correcting and communicating with them. It’s devastating.
We are seeing an entirely new decade of methodology that believes pets must be babied and spoiled and never told ‘NO’.
Many of these dogs are not going on walks, cannot be safely off-leash, have to be in a crate when guests come over, are not trusted around an open front door, have to be gated away from the kitchen and definitely do not get to go on so much as a picnic with their owner.
We are seeing endemic levels of frustration-based anxiety and reactivity that have never been seen before in pet dogs.
We think there is a problem here, and what’s ironic is that it takes behavior science (yes, science!) to fix it. When we are working with our dogs, it’s important to give them the information they need to make the right decisions. That means saying a LOT of ‘YES’ and also being ok with saying ‘NO’!
Thoughtfully balanced training and e-collar use are, you guessed it, based on science. You can, in fact, say NO and hold your pet accountable without hurting, scaring, or abusing them.
Myth #5: E-Collar training will make your dog aggressive
This goes with our science-based training information above.
Aggression typically has roots in the following things: genetics, hormones, habit, poor socialization, past experiences, frustration, and fear.
You can cause frustration and fear in a dog by alpha rolling them. You can also cause it by shocking or punishing your dog for reacting, especially without addressing the underlying root cause. You can even cause aggressive reactivity with poor leash handling, even if the dog is in a ‘harness’ and being fed piles of treats.
Incorrect training of all types can cause aggression, modern positive E-Collar methods does not.
Myth #6: E-Collars are for lazy people
Balanced training using an E-Collar requires more time, more diligence, more educated ownership, and more attention to detail than people seem to be aware of.
There is no such thing as a good, fair, humane, or truly effective training program that is “quick and easy”.
Taking a dog off-leash, understanding dog interactions, training the dog what the language of their E-Collar means, using lots of praise, play, rewards, treats, freedom and toys, and giving a dog enrichment, opportunities, and experiences that most dogs never experience?
We think that is far from lazy. Don’t fall for the negative marketing!
Why should I use an E-Collar?
We believe that all Great Danes should be E-Collar trained because it’s the most humane way to remove the reliance on physical restraints (including head collars, harnesses, and collars) that can cause harm, frustration, injury, and damage.
Giant breed dogs are strong and powerful; if you are relying solely on your ability to physically overpower and restrain your dog with some kind of physical device such as a collar or harness, you are setting both you and your dog up for failure.
Off-leash freedom is just one benefit; having an amazing relationship with your dog and being able to control your giant anywhere at any time, even on a flat collar alone, are key reasons to choose modern, positive balanced low-stim E-Collar training.
When your dog understands what is expected of them, and what they can and cannot do, you’ll be giving them a precious gift that will help them thrive.
You can train your dog to walk politely on a leash using an E-Collar or a humane Herm Sprenger prong collar. Leash walking can be a tough skill to work on when your Dane can overpower you without even trying!
These tools will give you a gentle and effective way to communicate so that actual living and enjoying every moment of life can begin.
How long does it take to train with an E-Collar?
It depends on how good of a trainer you are, and how much of a foundation you’ve already installed using positive training techniques.
A dog that has 60% recall can be safely off-leash with 100% recall in their E-Collar within weeks, following the positive conditioning process.
A dog that is wild, frustrated, lunging, destructive, shut down, anxious, and even aggressive will require more time. We recommend working with a highly qualified positive-balanced trainer to address the root cause of these behaviors.
How do you train with an E-Collar?
When you teach your dog with an E-Collar, you start by using positive R+ training to teach basic commands such as sit, down, leave it, place and COME!
Then you find your dog’s “working-level”. This is the lowest level of stimulation that they respond to.
Most dogs are responsive and enthusiastic to learn on a Mini-Educator at between a level 3 and 7. Humans typically cannot even feel the same sensation until the remote has been dialed up to a level 12 or even 20.
They always report surprise that the stimulation, once they do feel it, is both nearly imperceptible and non-aversive!
This response is paired with treats, so the dog learns that when they feel that, good things happen.
Through a process of conditioning from that point forward, the dog learns to control when the stimulation is on or off and learns that they can turn it off themselves.
By using the continuous button instead of the tap button, the stimulation can then be applied as a constant sensation paired with a command such as ‘come’, and then immediately removed when the dog begins to recall.
This is also known as ‘negative reinforcement’ and is a very simple and rewarding ‘pressure on, pressure off’ communication that mirrors leash pressure, just without the leash.
This allows you to communicate with your dog by ‘touching’ them, which can be insanely helpful for deaf dogs, dogs with ‘selective hearing’ or when you are in noisy environments such as the beach.
Higher levels are used in higher-distraction environments, just like your friend might have to speak louder to communicate with you in a noisy bar vs. when you are at home. Higher levels aren’t necessarily more aversive!
The stimulation from a modern E-Collar replaces prong, head halter, long line and harness pressure so that you and your pet can enjoy safe movement free of restraint.
Does this gentle simulation annoy the dog? Sure. That’s one reason it works. Just like your ringing cell phone makes you pick it up and answer. The timer on your oven makes you get up and take the cookies out. Your pants getting too tight makes you undo the button. All of these activities are first annoying and second, inherently rewarding!
Pressure does not have to hurt or be painful to be effective at changing your behavior.
Is Larry Krohn a good dog trainer?
Larry Krohn is our recommendation for learning about positive E-Collar dog training.
You can watch some of our favorite videos from his YouTube channel below! YouTube is a great resource for both good and bad methods, so here are some trainer channels that we do and don’t recommend as well.
NO: Jeff Gellman (too much compulsion and flooding) Cesar Milan (outdated intimidation ‘dominance’ method) Most franchise-based trainer companies (unreliable, tend to be heavily punishment-based)
What kind of E-Collar does Larry Krohn use?
Larry Krohn uses and recommends the same collars that we do, by Educator technologies! You can purchase them from us below, with free U.S. Shipping and email support during training.
