Hello Danes

Author: Hello Danes

  • The 2 Sided Debate: Great Dane Ear Cropping

    The 2 Sided Debate: Great Dane Ear Cropping

    Today we are chatting about Great Dane Ear Cropping! Are there any benefits to cropping Great Dane ears? When is ear cropping done on puppies?

    We will highlight the risks and benefits of Great Dane clipped ears and ear cropping, as well offer as a little bit of history, information on what to expect if you choose ear cropping for your Great Dane puppy, and more.

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    Is Ear Cropping Abusive?

    Many anti-crop people consider the procedure of Great Dane ear cropping to be abusive, unnecessary and painful while pro-crop people tend to gloss over and minimize the procedure, risks and aftercare requirements.

    The ‘Great Dane ears cropped vs. not’ debate has gone on for a long time! We hope that this blog post helps bring balance to extreme opinions and helps you make an informed decision regarding Great Dane ear cropping!

    Ear Cropping in Great Danes
    How to Tape a Cropped Dane’s Ears

    Please be kind to others. We welcome comments below but will not approve misleading information, cursing, bullying or inflammatory statements. We take a neutral position on ear cropping, and understand that it is a somewhat heated and controversial topic. I have made every effort to present this blog post with honesty and truth, free of bias.

    ear cropping in great danes

    What is Great Dane Ear Cropping?

    Great Dane ear cropping is a surgical procedure performed on young Great Dane puppies (7-10 weeks, typically).

    The procedure is done under anesthesia by a licensed veterinarian. The ears are shaved and the flap is trimmed using a guide, an artistic eye and surgical tools such as scalpel, scissors or laser.

    Roughly 40-70% of the ear flap is removed, leaving a much smaller, pointy ear. The cut edge is sutured and bandaged, and the puppy is given a long lasting pain medication and antibiotic.

    The puppy is sent home the same day, often with a large cone holding their bandaged ears up.

    Here is a fawn Great Dane puppy, before being cropped, and again as an adult with fully healed ears.

    With proper after-care (more information below), cropped ears are trained to stand up on their own as we see below.  Ears that are not cropped cannot stand as they are too heavy.

    BEFORE & AFTER

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    For comparison, below. An 8 month old male Mantle Great Dane with intact ears.

    Great Dane ear cropping

    DOES CROPPING HURT ?

    It is important to acknowledge that cropping is a surgical procedure involving anesthesia, cutting, blood, sutures and a healing period.

    It is well tolerated, however, by most puppies especially when performed by an experienced veterinarian that offers pain medication and appropriate after-care.  Were it not for that, this procedure would be inhumane and painful.

    Many breeders and pro-crop Dane owners say that their puppies are all up and playing within 12 hours of the procedure, as if nothing happened at all.

    Dogs do not ‘mourn’ this or worry about it, and do not know that there is any difference at all.

    Many of the veterinarians that excel at ear cropping are retiring now.

    We’ve heard reports that many current veterinarians will NOT crop ears, but that show breeders often have connections (some of which may or may not be entirely ethical in their cropping practices).

    Great Dane ear cropping

    What are the Benefits of Ear Cropping Great Danes?

    Ear cropping is primarily aesthetic.

    It is noted that as a general rule, show dogs with cropped ears often receive better placement.

    Cropping may reduce the chance that a dog will develop a hematoma (a painful blister or sore on the ear flap that bleeds).

    Some believe that cropped ears are less susceptible to ear infections, however studies (and the AVMA) do not currently back this theory up.

    Cropping was originally performed because it helped prevent working dogs from ear injuries. Working dogs may benefit from being cropped.

    Great Dane ear cropping

    As of this writing, the AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Association) considers cropping to be cosmetic and medically unnecessary. Fewer and fewer veterinarians in the U.S. will perform it, and many Countries have outright banned it by law or by restricting cropped dogs from competing in kennel club events.

    Ultimately, ear cropping is a highly personal choice and a decision that, when done by a licensed veterinarian, you should not feel bad about making.

    Cropping a puppies ears under anesthesia is not abuse, especially not when you compare it to the fact that millions of dogs are actually starved, neglected and beaten.

    Comparing professionally done ear cropping to abuse or torture is inflammatory and misguided. 

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    What are the Risks of Ear Cropping

    • Anesthesia comes with its own risks. With any surgical procedure, death is a possibility.
    • Unhealthy puppies and those with blood clotting or heart disorders may be especially at risk; chat with your veterinarian.
    • Infection & scabs can be somewhat common complications. It is important that the ears are kept clean, dry, properly bandaged and cared for. Healing should be closely monitored.
    • Some ears never stand properly, even with diligent posting and bandaging.
    • Because cropping happens during the prime socialization window, it is important that the entire process is as positive as possible.
    • Antibiotics, pain medication & anesthesia can have negative effects on gut health.

    When choosing ear cropping, we recommend making sure your puppy is receiving vitamin C (which can help them process stress and heal) and has had at least 48 hours to settle in at your home before the procedure. Ideally, cropping is handled by the breeder at 7 weeks of age.

    Moving to a new home, a change in diet and then surgery can be a lot for a little puppy to handle, so chat with your veterinarian and breeder to ensure that this transition is as smooth as possible.

    Great Dane ear cropping

    Show Dogs & Great Dane Breeders who Crop Ears

    The majority of dogs competing in conformation (dog shows) in the United States are cropped.

    Many believe that cropped dogs, in general, score better, however there is a growing movement of breeders showing un-cropped dogs and judges who do not bias towards cropped.

    For breeders that do still crop, many actually crop entire litters as part of their process before the puppies go home at 8-10 weeks. They take care of the early healing and guide owners on the posting and taping required to make the ears stand up.

    Chat with your breeder! We believe this is one of the healthiest ways to deal with cropping in Great Danes (have the breeder do it).

    Off Color and Designer Great Danes
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    Breeders: Shady Business
    Should I Choose a Breeder or Rescue?

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    Great Dane Ear Cropping Veterinarians

    It is extremely important when choosing to crop your puppy that you choose a veterinarian that has an amazing portfolio and plenty of experience. A good breeder can provide recommendations if they themselves don’t take care of the cropping.

    In addition to a portfolio of previous work (that was ideally done on high-performing show dogs from ethical breeders), the veterinarian should be interested in the health and comfort of your puppy.

    Because this procedure is largely aesthetic, a crop performed by the wrong hands could mean that your dog looks awkward, unbalanced or crooked. It’s like getting a bad nose job! Permanent. 

    We’ve seen some really questionable crop jobs in both Danes and Dobermans, and heard of a few sketchy cropping operations.

    Don’t give your dog a permanent “bad haircut” or traumatic experience by choosing the wrong veterinarian!

    A crop that is done properly is done with care and with the overall final look in mind.

    The ears will be symmetrical, cut in a manner that will give them the best chance of successfully standing, will heal beautifully (no jagged edges or scar tissue), and will perfectly balance and show off the shape of the head.

    Most importantly, a good veterinarian will make sure that your puppy has a good experience. They will not skimp on pre and post-op care, proper anesthesia protocols, or otherwise.

    This is not something you find the cheapest vet for. Get recommendations and ask a lot of questions.

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    Great Dane Ear Crop Styles

    Chat with your breeder and veterinarian about the best style for your puppy.

    Show Crop – this is the most beautiful crop, longer and often with a little flare at the tip. This crop is the most difficult in terms of getting the aesthetic correct and getting the ears to reliably stand.

    Pet Crop – this is a medium crop, easier to care for and a great choice if you are new to cropping. The ear is cut shorter overall and may not have the same artistic flare or regal look as a show crop.

    Short Crop – most of the ear flap is removed and the final cropped ear is short and sturdy. Usually reserved for working dogs.

    There is a huge range of styles and looks to choose from, even within these basic categories.

    Look online for images and ask to see your veterinarian’s crop portfolio for inspiration. It is also helpful to look at photos of your puppies pedigree, many of them may have been cropped and you can get a better idea of what crops look best within the lineage that your puppy shares.

    If your veterinarian doesn’t have a crop portfolio, keep looking. They should be proud to show off their work in this department and it should be something that they regularly do. 

    Additionally, some puppies should NOT be cropped because they aren’t healthy enough (parvo, blood clotting disorders, poor breeding situations, etc.) or have ears that aren’t built in a way that is conducive to success (may be common with puppies from breeders not focused on appropriate conformation of the Great Dane head).

    A good breeder and veterinarian will prioritize educating you on this before choosing profit (from doing the procedure anyways). Be open to their opinion and advice.

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    Great Dane Puppy Ear Cropping After Care

    After the cropping procedure your puppy may be drowsy or loopy, and may decline to eat for a short time while the anesthetic works its way out.

    It is imperative that the ears be kept clean and dry. Keeping nails properly maintained can help minimize scratching and damage to the newly (less than 14 days) cropped ears.

    Supervise your puppy and discourage other dogs in your home from licking the sutures, as they will likely be exposed during the initial healing period.

    At first, the ears may bleed and the puppy may be bothered by the cone and the incisions, so discourage your puppy from fussing with it.

    Many people report that they are surprised how bloody and messy their puppies crop is the first days following the procedure. Be aware of this so you aren’t surprised, especially if you are squeamish.

    It may depend on the skill of your veterinarian how ‘neat’ and clean the fresh crop incision and bandages actually looks.

    Some veterinarians will have you clean the sutures often with a Betadine or similar topical, and will want you to keep a close eye on the formation of scabs and scar tissue that can be problematic for the success and final aesthetic of the crop.

    Infections are a notably common complication with Great Dane ear cropping. Know the signs: discharge, redness, heat and swelling in addition to the possibility of a fever, lethargy and  occasionally signs of illness (vomiting, diarrhea).

    A puppy in pain may whine, pace, cry, shake or scratch at the ears. Make sure your vet has prescribed adequate pain medication, and call if you have questions.

    This is not the time to bath your puppy or encourage play in water or mud! Follow the aftercare instructions provided by your veterinarian.

    The veterinarian will schedule an appointment for suture removal (usually by 14 days, often sooner). Your puppy may need to wear a ‘cone of shame’ if he/she is particularly fussy about the sutures (which may become itchy as they heal!).

    Great Dane ear cropping

    Great Dane Ear Posting & Taping

    Once the sutures have been removed, you will need to keep the ears clean and dry and maintain a schedule to change bandages and posts. Depending on the bandages you choose, you can expect to change them every 2-7 days on average.

    Cropping requires months of diligent after-care, especially if you chose a longer show crop! 

    Your veterinarian and breeder can walk you through this process and teach you their tricks, which can involve everything from bandages to stickers, tape, tampons and rubber cement.

    The ears will need to be taped and posted until the cartilage has fully set and the ears are standing reliably on their own, usually 5-9 months, occasionally longer.

    It is best to stick with the process of posting and not give up too soon. The ears may quickly appear to stand fairly well, but if left without support for too long may quickly fall again.

    Read about Ear Cropping & Taping HERE

    Do not stop until you are positive teething has been completed and your puppy is holding the ears up.

    It is important that the cartilage has had every chance to develop properly, and that the puppy has been encouraged to perk the ears up on top of their head. You can whistle, clap and make silly sounds to encourage this! 

    Great Dane ear cropping

    Great Dane Cropping Cost

    Costs depend largely on your location and may even be further driven by the experience and quality of the veterinary performing the procedure.

    Some veterinarians specialize in cropping and will have lots of resources and a portfolio to share with you. This is ideal.

    Breeders that have entire litters cropped on the same day will typically receive a bulk discount, and they roll the cost of the crop into the price of the puppy.  This is often the simplest and most cost effective way to have a cropped Great Dane puppy.

    When you are pursuing crop yourself, expect to pay anywhere from $250-$1200.

    There may be additional expenses associated with travel (if you cannot find a good cropping veterinarian locally), posting (the supplies can cost money each month) and complications (infections may require additional medications, veterinary visits and treatment).

    Great Dane ear cropping

    With all things related to Great Danes, we believe that knowledge and educated ownership is important. We hope this guide helps you make a truly informed decision about ear cropping! Hello Danes will support you, 100% with whichever you choose.

    As above, we believe there are things happening the world of Danes that are infinitely more problematic and abusive (including backyard breeding) than an elective, mostly benign procedure done by a veterinarian with proper pain and infection control. There is nothing wrong with being informed, OR with choosing the procedure as an informed pet owner. 

    The information contained in this post is for informational purposes only. We do our best to present the most up-to-date research, however it is up to the reader to make decisions regarding the health and well-being of their dog. We make no claims here to prevent or treat bloat or any other condition related to Great Danes. Find a veterinarian with GIANT breed experience, and chat with them. 

    Some of the products we list on our website contain affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase, we may receive a small commission for referring you. We only recommend products that we truly believe in. This commission does not affect the price of the product and is used to fund our content and expenses related to operating this website. 

  • What is Great Dane Dominance Training?

    What is Great Dane Dominance Training?

    When a dog is rude, aggressive, snappy, or out of control, we are taught that this is a sign of dominance in our dogs. Great Dane dominance training aims to address it by helping the owner establish ‘rank’ as the pack leader.

    What if I were to tell you that the concept of ‘dominance’ in domesticated dogs is deeply flawed?

    To be clear, dominance or “alpha” theory is actually seen by professionals as a potentially harmful ‘woo’ theory with no scientific basis.

    What is Great Dane Dominance Training, and is it still relevant? I’m going to answer these questions today!

    Note the concept of ‘dominance’ in dog training is SO ingrained and was so popular that information like this can elicit some defensive reactions, especially if you are working with a trainer that still utilizes this ideology. We understand this, but also believe that education is power. 

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    What is Great Dane Dominance Training?

    Dominance and alpha theory are the idea that our pet dogs are essentially jockeying for a position at the ‘head of the pack’, and that a lack of alpha-style leadership is why they are aggressive, fearful, rude, or poorly behaved.

    The belief is that by relieving the dog of its ‘alpha’ status, it will be calmer, more balanced and less likely to run through doors, pull, jump, bark, hump, resource guard or react poorly towards children, people and other dogs.

    Seems logical, right?

    The original concept of alpha theory as it relates to pet dogs was originally presented following some questionable studies of a few very frustrated and confused captive wolves.

    Captive wolves behave very differently from wild wolves, so it is especially interesting that people are so committed to this concept. The latest research indicates that wild wolves do not fight for alpha status, and their packs are developed as family units with the mother and father as the natural, benevolent leaders.

    The original scientist behind these flawed studies of captive wolves, David Mech, has since completely retracted his original captive-wolf findings. 

    The concept of the ‘alpha dog’ and domesticated pets as we know it is both deeply flawed and not accepted by modern science.

    Interesting fact: Some researchers speculate that the original false assumptions about alpha and dominance in other species (such as deer and primates) were driven largely by patriarchal views! Because men (who often held ‘leadership’ positions in the household at a time when women were considered subordinates) were often the people studying animal behavior, their own beliefs biased their observations of the animals they were watching.

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    How to be the Alpha to a Great Dane

    Believers of the alpha/dominance theory will say that it’s important to ‘be the alpha’.

    So, what does ‘being the alpha’ mean? Typically, it involves training that looks like this: 

    • Maintaining an authoritative demeanor
    • Intimidation/power plays
    • Jabbing, tapping, biting or kicking (aggression)
    • Saying ‘Psssst’ and other sharp interruptions
    • Eating first and walking through doors first
    • Never allowing the dogs head or body to be in a higher position
    • Alpha rolls (pinning the dog down)
    • Extended down-stay positions
    • Structured walks facing forward, no talking, social or environmental interaction, often in a ‘pack’

    This kind of training is, in our opinion, 99% nonsense. Most of it is harmless, some of it can help with structure and boundaries, much of it is unfair and confusing to the dog, and NONE of it actually gives you ‘alpha’ status.

    In multi-dog homes, some people even believe that the ‘snappy’ or super confident one is the ‘dominant’ or ‘alpha’ dog and that it should be fed and pet first so the other dogs recognize its ‘position’ in the pack.

    Pack walks have become a popular way to showcase ‘control’ of a large pack of dogs, but note that while interesting and impressive to see, walking face-forward on hard pavement and ignoring interesting things is not actually a ‘natural’ activity for a dog, even in a ‘pack’. 

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    Alpha Dog Logic

    Even if our house dogs were always trying to become the ‘top dog’ and leader of the house, do these behaviors below (commonly seen as ‘dominance’ or ‘alpha’) truly exemplify a quality, benevolent, mature leader that can maintain the health and well being of a pack:

    • Stealing, running away, ignoring commands
    • Humping, pinning, neck biting and other rude, immature and out of control social behaviors
    • Lack of basic polite social skills and the ability to de-escalate, rather than cause conflict
    • Over-excitement and difficulty relaxing
    • Anxious behavior (destruction, barking)
    • Snapping & growling
    • Aggression towards children & people
    • Aggression towards dogs
    • Guarding food, toys, water and other resources from others in the ‘pack

    Many dogs that are labeled as ‘Dominant’ or that exhibit ‘alpha’ behavior are actually immature, under-socialized, untrained, anxious, fearful and have poor social skills.

    Do you have a dominant Great Dane that is showing aggressive behavior? Read our blog post on aggression to learn more about Great Dane behaviour.

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    Common Bad Behavior in Great Danes

    Barking – Barking is a symptom of anxiety, stress, boredom, habit and genetics. A dog that is over-excited or anxious is not a dog that is ‘dominant’ or ‘protective’.

    Resource Guarding – Resource guarding is a natural behavior where dogs will protect something that they see as important. It has everything to do with fear, genetics and past experiences. Truth? If somebody tried to take MY ice cream cone from me, I’d snap too. That doesn’t mean it’s acceptable behavior, but it does give us a much better idea of how to prevent and treat it.

    Nipping – Dogs that bare teeth and even go so far as to nip towards dogs, strangers and children are not doing so to establish themselves as some kind of leader or alpha. They are doing it because they are afraid and often because earlier warning signals (stiff body, hackles, growls, avoidance) were either ignored or punished.

    This is not to be confused with puppy biting, another natural behavior where puppies learn to control their jaws…not control you.

    Pulling & Walking Ahead – dogs that pull have learned somewhere along the way that pulling WORKS. Humans are slow and boring, pulling fixes that problem. Pulling and walking ahead are signs that a dog needs more mental enrichment, training, and positive relationship building (a desire to engage with you as the handler)…not that they are trying to be the boss.

    HOW TO TEACH A GREAT DANE TO WALK ON A LEASH

    Destruction – dogs that destroy things are most often bored, anxious, frustrated and immature. They don’t do this out of spite, and it’s definitely not a play to be the alpha.  Lack of appropriate mental and physical exercise paired with poor management skills (crates, gates, and keeping things put away) often define this behavior.

    Not Listening – Dogs that don’t listen often have ‘selective’ hearing because they don’t have a strong, positive relationship with their owner, need more repetitions in their training, haven’t been properly trained/taught how to do something, have been punished and are avoiding the situation, or are over-excited or anxious about the environment. Again, the root causes have very little to do with ‘alpha’ behavior and dominance.

    As a matter of fact, punitive, punishment-based ‘alpha’ dominance dog training can be the exact reason that a dog ‘stops listening’ and ‘has no respect’.

    Who respects or listens to a harsh authoritative figure? I don’t. I check out, get myself out of the situation, or shut down. Just like a dog would.

    Humping – Humping is a sign of overstimulation and anxiety. There is nothing about the immature, out of control behavior of ‘humping’ that tells the humpee (is that even a word?) ‘hey, I’m the boss okay?’. This would be similar to believing that the child who eats glue is the ‘alpha’ kindergartener in a classroom.

    Aggression – Leash aggression is especially common (dogs that act like fools on a leash, but fine with other dogs when off). This happens because a dog feels trapped on a leash, there is a lot of tension in the neck when they lunge/pull or are corrected, and they cannot express the normal body language. Off-leash aggression is also driven by fear, past experiences, genetics, and otherwise.

    Aggressive dogs are NOT ‘alpha’ or ‘dominant’, they are more likely fearful, insecure, have poor genetics, and/or have poor social skills.

    Did you know that according to the written breed standard, Great Danes are not actually supposed to be fearful, timid, or aggressive?

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    Yes, Leadership in Dog Training Still Matters

    This is not all to say that dogs don’t need leadership. It’s important to understand when you are learning how to control a Great Dane that they DO need us to take the reins! They need our guidance, respect, time, and understanding.

    Dogs also need training and lots of socialization. No dispute there, as a matter of fact, it’s incredibly important! (If you have a new puppy, we highly recommend you grab a copy of our Great Dane Socialization guide):

    There is just no logical sense at all in meeting aggressive, anxious, frustrated, immature behavior with aggressive, frustrated, anxious, and punitive training methods.  

    Pinning/alpha rolls and other scary, forceful physical corrections are known to increase aggression and anxiety.

    Dog training is not meant to be a power struggle. To view it as such is to literally miss the point.

    We owe it to our dogs to not boil everything down to ‘dominance’. 

    Try this instead:

    • Find a highly qualified, modern trainer to show you how to use management (crates, gates, muzzles, elevated cots) and fair, appropriate corrections to prevent and stop poor behavior.
    • Learn how to teach basic impulse control (wait at doors, leave it, drop it). Susan Garrett ‘It’s Yer Choice’ on Youtube is a great place to start, as well as flirt pole training. Again, this is actual training, not ‘being more dominant’.
    • Make sure your dog is receiving plenty of mental and physical enrichment. Most dogs are actually bored, and boredom can drive anxiety, frustration, destruction and ‘out of control’ behavioral situations. A few toys and a short walk are not enough. Take a training or trick class, learn scent work, consider sports such as rally obedience, dock diving and conformation.
    • Use modern E-Collars to communicate with your dog and give them amazing off-leash freedom.
    • Make it a point to learn one new trick or obedience basic every week. Use positive reinforcement.
    • Work with a balanced trainer and learn how to apply corrections thoughtfully and with appropriate timing to strengthen known behaviors.
    • If you have a dog that is leash aggressive or aggressive towards children, dogs or people, seek out the help of a highly qualified balanced trainer ASAP.
    • Learn how to read and understand canine body language. What is often seen as ‘calm submission’ may actually be a dog that is fearful and shutting down. Learn the difference between ‘shut down’ and ‘knows how to comfortably calm/soothe/chill’, or ‘dominant’ vs. ‘anxious and over-threshold’.
    • Recognize when professional help is needed, and that includes visiting a veterinarian and/or veterinary behaviorist to rule out medical causes. 

    Don’t put a ‘dominance’ or ‘dog psychology’ blanket on dogs that are in pain or have physical, hormonal, or neurological deficits that can be treated.

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    Reality Television is not the best place to get dog training and behavior advice.

    Reality dog training shows and armchair dog trainers have driven these misguided ideas about alpha, dominance and pack theory.

    It’s fun to watch a ‘dog whisperer’ magically transform an out of control ‘dominant’ dog into a calm, submissive pet in 20 minutes. This kind of television is engaging and believable.

    REALITY TELEVISION DOG TRAINING

    Yes, the energy you use with your dog matters, but nothing will replace actually training your dog and developing a positive relationship based on trust, benevolent leadership and guidance.

    It’s not actually that difficult to intimidate a dog into appearing ‘fixed’ for a 20 minute prime TV slot, and fluff it up with fascinating ‘dog psychology’ so you don’t see that the dog is actually incredibly stressed.

    Don’t fall for showmanship. It’s the oldest trick in the book!

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    Give Your Dog a Job!

    One thing that the dog whisperer does get correct, however? Dogs NEED much more physical and mental enrichment than we tend to give them.

    Many behavior problems are solved when you put the time into providing appropriate enrichment & training.

    Recognize and understand the true, studied root cause of their behaviors (not dominance but rather fear, confusion, boredom, anxiety or pain) and start there.

    Provide your dog with plenty of games, enriching activities, sports, and consistency.  A dog is never too old to learn new positive behaviors.

    Remember, you already control their food choices, where they sleep, when they get to go out or take a walk or eat dinner, and their day to day access to enrichment and activity.

    How much more ‘alpha’ do you really need to be?

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  • Is My Great Dane Puppy Knuckling?

    Is My Great Dane Puppy Knuckling?

    I’m taking a wild guess here that you found this post because you are concerned about your Great Dane puppy knuckling over. We have many resources on this topic, and are here to help!

    Great Dane puppies have HUGE knobby knees. Their limbs look so chunky when they are young that many people, even some veterinarians (who aren’t used to seeing giant breed dogs) are initially alarmed. Knuckling Over (medically known as “carpal laxity”) is a condition where the puppy’s front legs bow out over the tops of the feet.

    This reversible problem is believed to be the result of excessively fast growth, environment, genetics, and incorrect nutrition. We will touch on all of these factors below!

    • What causes puppy knuckling over?
    • Are flat feet and knuckling the same thing?
    • How to treat puppy knuckling and carpal laxity
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    This is a photo of a Great Dane puppy with severe carpal laxity “knuckling“

    Great Dane Puppy Knuckling Photos

    Here are some photos of Great Dane puppies who are experiencing severe carpal laxity (“knuckling”). Your puppy may have only mild knuckling that could progress quickly if left untreated and may not yet look like the puppies below.

    Any kind of bowing out, flat toes, or crooked appearance is cause for concern. While carpal laxity knuckling is the most common growth disorder, it’s also the most benign!

    Other problems related to bone growth in Great Danes include HOD, Panosteitis, Angular Limb Deformity, and Osteochondrosis. If you see ANY kind of abnormality in your puppy’s feet, you must visit your veterinarian to rule out more serious conditions.

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    Normal Great Dane Puppy Legs

    For reference, the image below is a young Great Dane puppy with normal legs. Notice the growth plates; those bumps are normal. The feet are nice and tall, and the limbs appear to hold the puppy up without any struggle or bowing out.

    Having solid feet and good foundations are so important for growing giant breed dogs. At this age, the joints and growth plates are very soft and susceptible to damage.

    The bump above the patella (or, the ‘ankle’) may be alarmingly large! Many people mistake this for knuckling in Great Dane puppies. If that bump is swollen and warm, that is concerning. However, it’s not unusual for them to be knobby in substantial, well-boned Great Dane puppies.

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    Great Dane Health Issues & Orthopedic Growth Disorders

    It is super important to note that while it may be normal for Great Dane puppies to have large growth plates, they should still be strictly monitored.

    Excessive swelling of the growth plates and obvious signs of pain are red flags and warrant a visit to the veterinarian. A struggling Great Dane puppy may limp, appear weak or lame, wobble, whine, chew on their feet and/or have a strange gait when they walk.

    Warm growth plates and flat or turned-out feet or limbs are another sign that something is wrong.

    Some common Great Dane growth disorders include:

    1. HOD  – Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy is a painful disorder in growing large and giant breed puppies that can cause swelling and abnormally large limbs and joints.
    2. PANO – PANOSTEITIS is also known as growing pains, and can cause swelling and pain.
    3. OSTEOCHONDROSIS
    4. INJURY – Injury to the growth plate may be serious and can cause swelling and permanent damage (that may develop into angular limb deformity or similar).

    As before, consult with your veterinarian if you are unsure! Even severe cases start with a mild version, so keep an eye on your puppy and take day-to-day photos if you are concerned. 

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    A double-merle Great Dane puppy with normal knobby knees and Growth Plates

    What Causes Knuckling in Giant Breed Dogs

    While the exact cause is unknown, it is believed that knuckling (carpal laxity), and all other orthopedic growth disorders are related largely to diet and an imbalance of important minerals and nutrients.

    Excess intake of calcium has been shown in studies to contribute to improper growth. Osteochondrosis, HOD, Panosteitis, and even angular limb deformities are commonly associated with too much calcium.

    Great Dane puppies utilize nearly EVERY bit of the calcium they receive in their diets. Adult dogs are better able to regulate this and discard what they don’t need. This makes it very important that we control the amount of calcium our puppies (under the age of 2) are receiving.

    Never feed a diet with more than 1.2% calcium to a Great Dane puppy! If it’s not listed on the bag, contact the company.

    In addition to excess calcium intake, excess food intake (overfeeding) results in obesity and rapid growth. This creates a perfect storm that results in all kinds of deformities and disorders.

    So what is the trick to reducing the risk of orthopedic growth disorders and bone problems?

    Less calcium, less food. I’ll dig into this below!

    17 1

    The Best Food to Treat Knuckling in Puppies

    Many foods on the market are NOT safe to feed giant breed puppies. I believe there are only a handful of truly nutritious and correctly balanced choices.

    When choosing food for a Great Dane puppy, especially if they have any kind of carpal laxity or painful growth disorder, you need to check the values.

    The calcium content MUST meet the following guidelines:

    1.2% or less calcium
    3.5g or less calcium per 1000kCal
    A ratio of calcium to phosphorus of as close to 1 : 1 as possible

    These factors alone don’t eliminate all possible options, so to narrow it down even further, choose as follows:

    • Labeled as a large or giant breed PUPPY formula or a large breed ALL LIFE STAGES formula
    • Must have the “formulated for the growth of 70+ lb as adult dogs” AAFCO statement
    • Includes grains (NO “grain-free”)
    • Made by a company that does research and feeding trials
    • Formulated by a highly qualified on-staff nutritionist (either a PhD in Animal Nutrition or a Board Certified Veterinary Nutritionist

    You may have heard that Great Dane puppies should never have puppy food. This is an OUTDATED MYTH. I cannot say this loud enough. Adult maintenance diets were used in the past but they are no longer the best choice.

    If you want more information on values associated with different food brands, check out the new Giant Dog Food Project website. www.thegiantdogfoodproject.com

    Great Danes need food that is formulated specifically for slow, even growth.

    It is also very important, when treating growth disorders, that food intake is limited and monitored. Do NOT overfeed or free feed. Eliminate all toppers, treats, and supplements.

    We highly recommend a highly researched, extensively tested and scientifically formulated large or giant breed puppy kibble with balanced calcium and phosphorus levels. Our favorites are listed below.

    For more information on Great Dane feeding, visit our Great Dane Feeding Chart post.

    Check out THE GIANT DOG FOOD PROJECT to compare brands and values.

    14 1

    Great Dane Puppy Knuckling and Breeders

    Another contributor to growth problems and bowing legs in Great Danes may be poor breeding and health practices; young puppies that are kept primarily on hard surfaces and fed an improper first diet may be more susceptible.

    Great Dane puppy Knuckling occasionally goes hand in hand with flat feet (weak knuckles and toes). Poor overall foot structure has a genetic component.

    Many breeders still subscribe to outdated ideas about feeding adult foods and low-protein foods; however, these may not prevent growth disorders and often do more harm than good!

    is my great Dane puppy knuckling
    A Great Dane puppy knuckling before and after photo series

    Puppies that aren’t offered adequate free-play on soft, varied terrain (think grass, sand, dirt, and gravel) or that live in homes with a lot of hard, slick floors may be more prone to knuckling, flat feet, and other orthopedic issues.

    In the early stages of knuckling, you may notice:

    • Weak feet (flat toes/knuckles)
    • Weak ankles
    • Shaking limbs when on soft surfaces
    • What looks like severe knuckling when standing on a softer surface, but may correct and look ‘normal’ when back on the floor
    • Ankles that appear to be moving up and over the foot, even slightly
    • Legs that occasionally ‘bow out’
    • Limbs that look crooked in some way

    Knuckling Before and After

    The great news is that knuckling (carpal laxity) is treatable and can be corrected!

    The treatment for knuckling is also helpful for treating flat feet, which are another symptom of improper flooring, inadequate exercise, poor nutrition, and poor breeding practices.

    BEFORE:

    knuckling 16 1

    AFTER: 
    knuckling 17

    How to treat Great Dane puppy knuckling

    There are five big changes to make when treating knuckling.

    • Change Food Immediately
    • Supplements
    • Nail Maintenance
    • Flooring
    • Exercise

    We are going to use the space below to outline each one, including the best foods to offer when correcting knuckling in addition to information on supplements that we recommend.

    As always, consult your veterinarian.

    Of course, we say to consult your veterinarian often because we really do think that you should.

    However, it is extremely important to note that you find a veterinarian with giant breed experience, who is well studied in the latest research when it comes to nutrition and more. Ask questions!

    When you notice the early signs of knuckling, it is imperative that you change foods immediately.

    Knuckling is largely related to nutrition.

    The food you choose for your Great Dane puppy MUST have the correct calcium, and phosphorus ratios.

    More research is needed into the exact mechanisms behind nutrition and knuckling, but it is believed that an imbalance of amino acids and meat proteins may also contribute. For this reason, we only recommend research-backed brands for Great Dane Puppies. These brands include Purina, Royal Canin, Iam’s, Hill’s Science Diet, and Eukanuba.

    A food with the ‘correct’ calcium and phosphorus ratios may still cause knuckling if it is overfed or not professionally formulated by a veterinary nutritionist!

    The best Great Dane puppy foods to treat knuckling

    We like to see:

    Calcium at or below 1.2%

    Phosphorus close behind

    Calcium and Phosphorus should be balanced together as closely as possible, with phosphorus being the lower value. Calcium values of 1.2% or lower are ideal.

    Science-based formulation from a company that follows WSAVA Guidelines and utilizes research and science, not marketing buzzwords (Purina, Iams, Eukanuba, Hills, Royal Canin)

    If possible, look for an AAFCO statement on the bag with information about the formula being correct for the “growth of large-size dogs (70 lbs. or more as an adult)”.

    Better yet, the AAFCO statement should indicate that the food was substantiated in food trials.

    Ingredients: Science-backed formulation with meat, meat, and/or meat by-product meals in the first ingredients. Be wary of any food that uses an excessive amount of legumes or pea protein instead of real meat protein (which may also be linked to heart problems).

    Added probiotics and ingredients such as DHA and fish oil that promote healthy brain development and a shiny coat are recommended.

    NOTE: It used to be said that ‘adult food’ was the only choice for Dane puppies. Formulations and science have been updated. Puppy food may help ensure that your puppy is receiving enough of the right protein and fat for brain development and growing muscles.

    Formulations, research, science and kibble diets have changed for the better in the last 10 years.

    You can now choose a puppy OR an adult formula, as long as it’s formulated correctly for the growth of giant breed dogs and from a science-backed, heavily researched brand such as Purina.

    Great Dane puppy foods that we recommend

    Always consult with your veterinarian before a diet change or adding supplements! The brands listed below are heavily tested and researched by Veterinary Nutritionists and are thus formulated with up-to-date information about the growth of large and giant breed dogs.

    These brands are recommended by veterinarians and many of the Top Breeders in the U.S.

    Check out THE GIANT DOG FOOD PROJECT to compare brands and values.

    Whatever you do, do NOT give your Great Dane puppy a calcium supplement or multivitamin!

    Nail trimming to prevent knuckling in Great Dane Puppies

    Overgrown nails lead to:

    • Flat feet
    • Weak pasterns
    • Unnecessary pressure on the toes and joints
    • Altered gait/walking
    • Pain
    • Damage to the skin, furniture, and hardwood
    • Temporary or permanent deformity of the feet & ankles
    • Eventually: joint damage and arthritis

    Nails must be kept short and round, not long and sharp. If they touch the ground, they are too long. If you have a puppy that is knuckling, has flat feet, or has another bone growth disorder, nail maintenance is even more important. 

    For tips on trimming nails, read our ‘how to trim Great Dane puppy nails’ blog post here. 

    Appropriately trimmed puppy nails look like this or better:

    139775864 10223362075312860 8681355535716080135 o

    Hard and slick flooring is extremely bad for the joints and can contribute to flat feet and knuckling in Great Dane puppies.

    We recommend putting down runners and traction. These clear stick-on stair treads are amazing for wooden steps!

    Discourage your puppy from jumping, especially if the landing is on a hard or slick surface. Use a washable, tough bed in the crate to keep feet off the hard crate pan when crating for extended periods.

    Do not allow your puppy to zoomie and slide all over the hardwood and tile floors in your home. 

    It is important to help your puppy strengthen those feet, tendons, and muscles.

    Great Dane puppies should have large, well-knuckled feet. The toes should not be flat. We’ve included more information below on what good foot structure and strong feet should look like!

    Check out THE GIANT DOG FOOD PROJECT to compare brands and values.

    How to strengthen weak Great Dane puppy feet

    Exercise ideas for strengthening Great Dane puppy feet and pasterns:

    • Lots and LOTS of free play on varied terrains such as grass, sand, and pea gravel.
    • Walking up and down gently rolling hills.
    • Have the puppy stand on the bed or the couch, and gently touch each side with a flat palm to encourage the puppy to ‘balance’.
    • Use a stability disk or cushion. Encourage the puppy to stand with both front feet on the disk.
    • When indoors, keep the puppy only on soft surfaces.
    • Limit time spent walking on concrete and in the ‘heel’ position.
    • Create a puppy playground and encourage your puppy to safely explore ramps, tunnels, and things that wobble a bit.

    Be careful about over-using a crate (restricted movement all day and all night) or keeping your puppy on a tile or linoleum floor all day long. This practice can contribute to weak feet, knees and hips.

    Make sure that your puppy receives plenty of time to move outside of the crate or X-pen when you are home.

    If your puppy has a severe case of knuckling, consult with a veterinarian and certified canine physical therapist before adding any additional exercise! 

    Some cases of knuckling benefit from wraps to support the limbs; a professional can help you. We do NOT Recommend wrapping without professional guidance.

    This puppy has weak flat feet, and weak pasterns, and shows what may be early signs of knuckling.

    14 jpg

    Around 5-7 weeks puppies can appear to have flat feet and early knuckling, which will correct itself if the puppy is given the correct food.

    Feet and pasterns may ‘fall’ a bit following surgery (ear cropping, for example) and during teething.

    It’s easy to become alarmed each time this happens, but it’s important to monitor progress toward the end goal: tight knuckles and straight limbs! 

    10
    A young Great Dane puppy with slightly flat feet

    Great Dane puppy knuckling can look much worse than it is, but it’s still essential to immediately begin correcting the problem.

    Failure to correct knuckling could lead to permanent deformities of the limbs that may become painful and may eventually lead to arthritis or require surgery.

    Have you had a puppy knuckling? What did you do to treat it? How quickly did it resolve?

    Use the comment section below to tell us about it!

  • 7 Dogs That Do Not Belong at the Dog Park

    7 Dogs That Do Not Belong at the Dog Park

    Dog parks are wildly popular, but they get a bad rap. The idea is great: an off-leash space for a dog to run, play and explore! In practice, however dog parks can be a hotbed of fear, aggression and poor training.

    I’m going to preface this today by mentioning that I take 2 of my three dogs to dog parks (both of my Danes). Our favorite is a local 70 acre fenced open space, however we have ‘normal’ dog parks here too.

    I’ve seen a LOT of sketchy behavior and ideas, so I want to put this out there in the hopes that the right people will read it.

    Here are 7 dogs that do NOT belong at a dog park!

    34

    THE FLIGHT RISK

    This dog RUNS.

    He may easily consider following another family home, would walk out of the gate with people coming in and out, can and will jump the fence, and largely ignores you while in the dog park.

    If you have no control over your dog and the time spent at the dog park includes chasing, yelling, and getting frustrated when he ultimately makes his escape, consider working on those basic obedience skills (sit, down, come, leave it) with a long leash before going to the dog park.

    It’s also important to recognize that the desire to escape may actually be the result of anxiety, proving that for this dog the dog park may not be the best fit.

    4

    THE FIGHTER

    This really goes without saying, but it constantly amazes me how many people bring truly aggressive, short-tempered dogs to the dog park.

    This is the dog that is out for blood, who may full-on attack a dog just for being nearby.  This dog snarls, lunges and goes beyond a quick warning or quick snap.

    Just like any other behavior, aggression can worsen as the behavior is repeatedly practiced.

    This idea that you socialize an aggressive dog by bringing it around other dogs is both dangerous and wildly misguided.

    If you are struggling with aggression, find a trainer. Don’t come to the dog park with your dog on a leash and scold and correct him for being reactive. This practice isn’t fair, safe or appropriate.

    12

    THE NEWLY RESCUED

    We know you want to take your new rescue Dane out to socialize and meet the world, but hold off!

    The newly rescued or adopted dog is still developing a sense of its new life. She doesn’t know who you are, and you don’t know who she is, either!

    It’s very important to allow your new rescue dog to decompress, prove their temperament, and develop a strong relationship with you.

    This process can take as long as 3 months, but be patient. Go for walks and start a training class instead, then consider a dog park once you know your new dog better.

    5

    THE UNPREDICTABLE

    This is the dog that seems generally ok most of the time, but not always.

    He is triggered by something, you are never quite sure what, and his extreme reactions come out of the blue.

    A little show of teeth or an appropriate correction from one dog to a rude dog is one thing, but if your dog tends to go after another dog in attack mode with very little warning, and especially if they do so with intent to harm, it’s time to ditch the dog park.

    This dog is perhaps one of the most unsafe dogs to have at a dog park. They might skip some of the signs that they are about to attack, and while their body language may be tense or fearful overall, many people may misread or misunderstand it.

    If your dog DOES attack another dog (more than just a snap or simple appropriate communication, which is different), leave the dog park.  No questions asked. You and your dog need to get out.

    Despite this, when I see this kind of thing happen it’s surprising that people scold their unpredictable dog and then STAY in the dog park.  It is this kind of ownership that makes dog parks such a dangerous and unfair place. 

    32

    THE PUPPY

    Young puppies don’t belong in dog parks. See the ‘aggressive’ and ‘unpredictable’ dogs above? One experience with those dogs can ruin a puppy for life.

    Not to mention, disease! Yuck!

    If you wish to bring a puppy, wait until she is fully vaccinated and has also shown signs of an excellent and stable temperament: confidence, engagement with you, the ability to walk away from tense situations (not towards them), and a friendly (not rude) attitude towards people and dogs.

    A well-run puppy social class with a highly-qualified trainer is a much safer bet.

    136061678 862236671237348 5581538203518602331 n

    THE HUMPER

    This dog appears enthusiastic, exuberant, excited, and as if he just LOVES dogs.

    By loving dogs, we mean…humping them.

    This behavior is NOT DOMINANCE. It is related to over-excitement or anxiety and quickly becomes the activity of choice for some dogs to release built up tension.

    The problem is that it is an extremely rude social behavior that can hurt other dogs, scare some dogs, and trigger fights. Humping is not cute or friendly.

    Immediately step in and correct humping.

    A warning ‘Uh-oh’ followed by a time out can help temper and reduce the behavior. Of if you use modern, positive E-Collar training, you can use dynamic pressure to communicate to your dog that the behavior is inappropriate.

    As with aggression, practice makes perfect. The more your dog practices this behavior, the harder it’s going to be to eliminate. So avoid situations where it tends to happen (this includes the dog park, if he or she cannot remain calm and polite in that setting).

    17

    THE CHICKEN

    This is the dog that is trembling, drooling, shaking, cowering, and trying to run away.

    While this reaction may happen for a moment in an overwhelming situation, the dog park is NOT a healthy place for a dog that consistently reacts this way. Scary situations can breed more fear.

    If you have a scared dog and want to properly socialize him or her, you don’t have to visit a dog park and ‘flood’ your dog with scary things.

    Instead, go somewhere where your Dane isn’t scared and work on tricks, basic obedience, and calm behavior in a place where dogs and people are nearby but not threatening.

    There are so many things you can do with an anxious, scared or unpredictable dog that don’t include dog parks. Here is a list of some of our favorites!

    • Take a scent work class
    • Take an obedience class
    • Work with a private trainer
    • Work on the Canine Good Citizen test items
    • Get trick training titles
    • Learn about Dock Diving (yes, Danes can do this!)
    • Go hiking with a long leash and explore in areas with few people and dogs

    31

    READ MORE:

    The 2 Sided Debate: Great Dane Ear Cropping

  • Great Dane Breeder Scams & Shady Business

    Great Dane Breeder Scams & Shady Business

    Unfortunately, there are a lot of shady breeders and Great Dane breeder scams in the world of Great Danes. These unethical breeding practices are harming our beloved breed and making it hard for pet parents to navigate their search for a well-bred Great Dane puppy.

    We see a lot of this. The unethical breeders prey on people who are new to Great Danes or don’t know much about ethical breeding practices. What’s worse, is that they know how to appear ethical, friendly, and reputable.

    The dogs and the owners end up suffering for it. Backyard breeding practices are almost solely responsible for the reason that so many purebred Great Danes are in rescue.

    We are on a mission to shut these shady, scammy, unethical breeders down, and make room for breeders that are operating with the best interest of every dog in mind. 

    This post will dig into some favorite shady tactics that unethical Great Dane breeders may use to get your business!

    16

    Shady Breeder Tactic #1: Bare Minimum Health Testing

    One way that backyard breeders will attempt to appear reputable and legitimate is by doing a ‘vet check’ or genetic screening so they can claim that their dogs have been health tested.

    Note: a breeder who only completes a ‘veterinary clearance’ or genetic screening is NOT properly health testing their dogs! There is no exception to this. When you hear these things from a breeder, you are hearing about their corner-cutting practices.

    Diligent health testing must include at minimum:

    • Veterinary check, ideally with a reproductive veterinarian
    • A full study of the pedigree of both parents to include information about health conditions seen in the genetic lineage
    • Genetic screening for known genetic conditions and coat color
    • OFA screening by the breed’s parent club recommendations.

    For example, in Great Danes, OFA health screening for each parent in the pairing must include:

    OFA Heart – an echocardiogram of the heart

    OFA Thyroid – Thyroid panel/blood test

    OFA Eyes – Exam with a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist

    OFA Hips – X-rays read and graded by orthopedic specialists

    Reputable breeders will log their OFA health testing at www.ofa.org

    You should be able to see the screening results for BOTH parents on that website. If any OFA tests are missing, find a different breeder.

    Ethical breeders will fully OFA health test both dogs being bred, and they will not breed if one or both of the dogs doesn’t pass those tests with good or excellent results. For more information, read our blog post on OFA Health testing here.  

    If you are outside of the U.S., your breeder probably doesn’t use OFA, but they will still check their breeding stock for quality hips, eyes, heart, and thyroid.

    Don’t just take their word for any of this! Ask for proof. Ask them why it matters.

    17 1

    Sketchy Dog Breeders Red Flag: Puppies, Puppies Everywhere!

    Tread cautiously with any breeder that always seems to have puppies, especially if they have a regular habit of maintaining multiple litters and pregnant dams at the same time, all year round.

    These breeders may appear ‘popular’ and reputable because they have so much ‘business’, but in the world of ethical breeding, this is one of the worst offenses.

    Many of these same breeders may keep adult dogs in outdoor runs all day, require the purchase of ‘Life’s Abundance’ or ‘Nuvet’ (MLM commission schemes), and/or have a huge network of ‘guardian homes’ through which they can always have litters available.

    Running a breeding business like a puppy factory isn’t fair to the dogs, owners, or puppies.

    It implies that each life is worth only the cash it generates.

    Breeders that are overrun with dogs and puppies are less likely to be able to offer proper puppy socialization and care, robust breeder support, and appropriate attention, affection, training and accommodations for the dogs being used in their breeding program.

    Many breeders that operate this way are keeping dogs in runs or barns outdoors, not as loved pets that are trained in obedience, shown in dog shows, socialized, and kept as part of the family.

    Do not mistake high volume for popularity. 

    Ask yourself if a ‘high volume’ breeder is doing this because they care about maintaining and enhancing the breed, or if they are in it for ego and cash.

    8 3

    Breeder Red Flag: Will Ship Anywhere

    Some ethical breeders are willing to ship puppies to highly qualified, well-considered buyers.

    We are very leary of any breeder that always seems to have puppies and is willing and able to ship them almost anywhere to anyone, however.

    Great Danes are NOT an item that you order online. They are living beings that should be bred and raised with care and love.

    They should not be bred by volume and shipped all over the Country like bags of dog food.

    Ethical breeders typically have waitlists of local buyers and don’t need to do this to sell puppies.

    Any breeder with a habit of regularly shipping or ‘delivering’ dogs to multiple different states is a breeder who does not likely have a good name in their local community.

    As before, don’t mistake even expensive high-volume shipping operations with ethics, ‘popularity’, and desirability.

    10 4

    The Ethical vs. Shady Breeder Showdown

    Ethical:

    The ethical breeder will have OFA and genetic screening results to show you for both parents. They will be able to speak to the pedigree, with information about common health disorders in the breed such as heart disease, cancer, and GDV Bloat.

    Shady:

    The shady breeder will say their dogs are health tested and healthy. They might do OFA Hips or thyroid (but not all of them) so they can use the word ‘OFA’ in their marketing.

    Ethical:

    These breeders can tell you about the breed standard if you ask about angulation, top lines, eyes, head shape, croup, feet, color, temperament, and health problems.

    Shady:

    Unethical breeders will attempt to sell you on their puppies by mentioning that their dogs are “Euro” and come in “rare colors”.

    Ethical

    Exceptional breeders have a robust early socialization program that they are very proud of. It should include early exposure to people, children, animals, textures, touch, sounds, crates, handling, leashes, and potty training.

    Shady:

    Corner-cutting breeders will say they raise the puppies ‘indoors’ and ‘around children’.

    Ethical:

    Breeders that care want to know a lot about you as a buyer, including your experience, desires, etc. They will often have a long waitlist of buyers who understand the reasons for waiting to support an ethical breeder.

    Shady:

    Unethical breeders often have to do a sales pitch to sell dogs and will sell them to nearly anybody willing to buy. They may even encourage puppy buyers to take home multiples and will often be seen on social media trying to sell the puppies.

    12

    All Dogs Need Good Homes

    It’s hard to turn your back on a dog that is already here, waiting to be purchased.

    The problem, however, is an endless loop. When you intentionally purchase a dog from a backyard breeder, puppy mill, or pet store you are also funding the production of more unethically bred puppies. 

    So while it feels good at the time to give THAT dog a home, the money rewards a breeder that doesn’t truly care about that dog or any others that follow.

    Make it a point to seek out and purchase ONLY from ethical breeders. 

    If you see sick, unhealthy, unkempt puppies and dogs report them to your local animal control. Multiple reports may eventually warrant a visit from the authorities. Many bad breeders have been shut down this way.

    A backyard breeder with a litter of poorly bred, unhealthy, or sick puppies that don’t sell may eventually give up and surrender those dogs to rescue. The rescue can find great homes for them, and the backyard breeder may think twice before breeding again.

  • Are Great Danes Aggressive?

    Are Great Danes Aggressive?

    A lot of people are intimidated by Great Danes because they are so large. There is this assumption that Great Danes are aggressive, perhaps because they are large and generally protective. To make matters worse, many landlords and leasing companies, as well as homeowners insurance companies will list Great Danes as a restricted or ‘aggressive’ breed.

    So, are Great Danes aggressive? Do Great Danes make good family dogs? Are Great Danes good for protection work?

    We are going to look first at the actual written breed standard.

    Great Danes & Aggression

    The written breed standard from the GDCA states:

    The Great Dane must be spirited, courageous, always friendly and dependable, and never timid or aggressive.

    Intelligence, loyalty and dependability are true breed characteristics. Timidity and aggressiveness are alien traits and should be severely penalized.

    Basically put, Great Danes are NOT supposed to be aggressive or timid. 

    person holding black and tan dog
    Photo by Matheus Bertelli on Pexels.com

    WHAT CAUSES AGGRESSION IN GREAT DANES?

    Just because Great Danes are not supposed to be aggressive, doesn’t mean that they never develop it. There are many factors that contribute to temperament problems in Great Danes.

    • Breeders that breed poorly tempered dogs
    • Unethical and unhealthy breeding practices
    • Poor early experiences in the litter
    • Puppy mills & backyard breeders
    • Nutrition issues, including malnutrition
    • Genetics
    • Health problems, including thyroid disease, dysplasia, poor eyesight, cancer, overgrown nails, bad teeth, arthritis, hormones, etc.
    • Training practices that employ intimidation, fear or pain, including alpha rolls
    • Poor socialization and poor early social experiences, lack of training

    The tragic part here is that nearly every single one of those circumstances is preventable through thoughtful breeding practices, educated ownership, positive socialization and appropriate training.

    Aggression, resource guarding, leash reactivity and nipping at children are major reasons that Great Danes are surrendered to rescue.

    PUPPIES vs. RESCUE

    Many people choose a breeder over a rescue because they want to raise the puppy ‘their way’ and make sure it isn’t ‘aggressive’, which is an interesting thought. It comes with one major stipulation, however.

    Bad breeders are everywhere and they are creating thousands of fearful puppies that develop reactivity and aggression.

    These breeders are not health testing their dogs, they don’t understand genetics, they allow puppies to go home prior to 8 weeks of age, they aren’t keeping the puppies in a clean or healthy environment, and they aren’t properly socializing the puppies before they go to their homes. 

    So many temperament problems could be greatly reduced in Great Danes if we all made the effort to only support breeders that truly care about health, temperament and structure.

    Dogs from rescue and dogs from breeders can have amazing temperaments, or they can be aggressive and unpredictable. If you absolutely need a dog with an outstanding temperament, choose a rescue with a well-known and well-tested personality, or choose a highly ethical breeder with fully tested, proven lines and a thoughtful socialization program.

    HEALTH & HORMONES

    Spay and neuter are often advertised as the solution to behavior problems. While removing those hormones may help, it is unlikely to eliminate aggressive behaviors.

    There are many other health problems that can lead to snapping, growling and aggression.

    Just like humans, dogs can have mental health conditions that may be treatable with prescription medications.

    Painful health problems such as hip dysplasia, overgrown nails, growths, and even cancer can cause a dog to have a short temper.

    Thyroid disease or even eyesight and hearing problems can also present first as aggression.

    If your Great Dane has become aggressive suddenly or over time, we highly recommend that the first step, in tandem with the help of a highly qualified, credentialed behaviorist be a thorough and complete vet check. A blood panel should include screening for diabetes and thyroid disease. The heart, hips and eyes should also be evaluated.

    A note on ‘BE THE BOSS’

    Many people believe (perhaps because they were taught this from reality TV star Cesar Milan) that the solution to all aggression is to ‘Be the boss’ and ultimately lead with some form of intimidation (physical or emotional).

    An aggressive dog that is met with such a challenge may actually become more aggressive…and dangerously so.

    Science tells us that aggression is not related to pack hierarchy as previously thought. Find a qualified trainer or behaviorist to help you.

    Euro Great Danes

    The biggest problem with a blanket approach to aggression of ‘be the boss’ or ‘be the alpha’ is that it fails to take into account the many reasons a Great Dane may be aggressive: fear, pain, hormones, undiagnosed medical problems, lack of mental and physical enrichment or mental health issues.

    Calm, benevolent leadership, training, management, enrichment and respect are needed. Not intimidation, isolation and a power struggle.

    GREAT DANES & CHILDREN

    Great Danes that are well socialized, trained and raised around children make wonderful family dogs!

    Puppies do bite and nip as a form of play, and they do require a lot of guidance and training.

    The majority of real bites to children happen from known family dogs, and often ‘out of the blue’.
    Children should never:

    • Scold, pinch, shout, hit or scream at dogs
    • Chase, corner or pin dogs
    • Ride, bounce, lay or sit on dogs
    • Bug dogs when they are sleeping
    • Take their food, toys or bones

    Proper socialization of Great Danes around children means teaching them to be calm around children (go to a mat, sit near them, no jumping) and teaching them that children are positive, fun and great to be around. Manage your puppy so that jumping, nipping and chasing children are not behaviors that are practiced.

    A well socialized Great Dane has a much higher tolerance for those times when a child (or even an adult) does something rude, scary or annoying. 

    GREAT DANES PROTECTIVENESS

    At their core, Great Danes are still working dogs. They have protective tendencies.

    Do not mistake fear and aggression with protection! A fearful or aggressive dog will hide, growl, snarl and even snap, lunge or bite. Those behaviors are NOT necessarily protective or appropriate. 

    A protective Dane may bark as a form of alert, but will be able to move on if threat is determined safe.

    They act out of protection, not blanket fear or frustration towards dogs and people.

    NOTE: This is very different than Danes that are trained in actual bite and protection work. 

    Great Danes that are prone to contact (biting, nipping) should be considered dangerous, and muzzle training, strict management and working with a highly qualified trainer is highly encouraged.

    Dogs that are trained to bite on command (bite work/Schutzhund) are dogs with excellent impulse control and obedience, not dogs that are aggressive, fearful, confused, under-enriched or out of control. 

    RESCUE AND ABUSE

    Some Great Danes in rescue may be aggressive because they come from an abusive or difficult background.

    It’s important, however, to never assume that all aggressive or fearful rescue Danes were abused.

    They may simply be the result of poor breeding practices and improper socialization and training.

    They may be fearful of men, for example, but that doesn’t always mean they were abused by men.

    Many rescue Danes just need a chance to build trust and to be respected and appreciated; they open up and can become wonderful, friendly, safe and happy family pets.

    We encourage all Great Dane owners and breeders to support rescue through volunteering, donations, advocacy, education and adoption. You may never choose adopt a Great Dane, but even a small donation to their operating expenses is a meaningful way to support Great Danes.

    DO YOU HAVE AN AGGRESSIVE GREAT DANE? 

    If you are struggling with a Great Dane that is nipping, lunging, growling and even biting it is extremely important to follow these steps: 

    • Use management tools to prevent the behavior: space, time, crates, muzzles & leashes.
    • Create a journal and document the body language leading up to the aggression, as well as the situation and reaction that happened.
    • Have your dog thoroughly checked by a veterinarian (blood panel at minimum).
    • Seek out the help of a highly qualified trainer with behavior credentials, or a Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorist.
  • Should I Take My Great Dane to the Dog Park?

    Should I Take My Great Dane to the Dog Park?

    Dogs parks look like so much fun. The idea of a large fenced area for off-leash fun is very appealing! 

    There are times when it’s appropriate to take your Great Dane to a dog park and times when it is not. 

    Read on for more information about dog parks, Great Danes, and when and if your dog is ready to participate. 

    AGE

    No dog under the age of 4 or 5 months should be visiting a dog park.

    Dog parks can harbor parasites and disease that may be harmful to your puppy, especially considering that your dog is not likely to be fully vaccinated yet.

    Additionally, dog parks are not good places for socializing young puppies. As a matter of fact, one bad experience can ruin a puppy for life.

    Do you want your puppy to grow up to be a ‘dog park’ dog, or to like other dogs? 

    Don’t ruin this opportunity with forced exposure. 

    Taking your puppy to a dog park and keeping him on a leash for ‘safety’ so he ‘learns’ is  how you may actually cause leash reactivity, fear of other dogs and aggression. 

    Focus your young puppy time on positive experiences, calm engagement with you, and basic obedience. 

    SOCIAL SKILLS

    Good ‘Dog Park Dogs’ are well socialized, confident, calm and have excellent social skills. 

    They also know LEAVE IT and COME.

    Many of those skills can actually be learned in a well-run obedience training and puppy socialization class. 

    A dog that has good social skills is more likely to walk away from conflict, rather than into it:

    They are confident in new situations. 

    They are not fearful of puppies, dogs or people and have no history of aggression towards any of them.

    They know how to respect other dogs signals and body language. 

    1 3

    Dog parks are hotbeds for aggression and rude interactions between dogs. Even a docile, well socialized and otherwise calm dog may find himself in a tense, escalating situation and will react accordingly. 

    Many dog owners are unaware of the difference between healthy play and behaviors that may lead to tension or a fight. This is the reason that dog parks in general get a bad name. 

    TENSION AT THE DOG PARK

    If you see any of these signs or situations from your dog or a dog you meet, say ‘Let’s Go’ and walk your dog away from the situation. 

    • Stiff tail wags and stiff bodies paired with hackles and possibly bared teeth while greeting. 
    • One dog standing over the other and baring teeth, growling or snapping at the other. 
    • One dog with a toy or treat that is stiff, baring teeth and/or growling
    • Dogs coming into the gate that are extremely wound up: screaming, barking, howling.
    • Dogs on leashes inside of the dog park. 
    • A dog that corners, chases, rolls, shoves, or pins another dog when not part of mutual play.
    • A group of dogs that are ‘ganging up’ on others.

    Don’t mistake chasing, rolling, cornering, shoving, humping, or other pushy behaviors as ‘cute’ or ‘friendly’. 

    If your dog is subjected to this, and especially if your dog is clearly afraid (tail tucked, trying to escape, hiding, snapping) get your dog OUT of that situation. 

    Move on, no matter what the owner of the other dog says about their dog being ‘friendly’ and ‘just saying hi’. 

    On the flip side, do not allow your dog to be the rude pushy one either. This kind of behavior is extremely inappropriate and can lead to snapping, fights, injury and poor socialization experiences. 

    HEALTHY DOG PLAY SIGNALS

     

    These are the signs that your dog, and that other dogs nearby and having fun at the dog park:

    • Loose, wiggly bodies (free of tension)
    • Indifference (calmly walking away from conflict, not towards it or engaging it)
    • Loose waving tail (not stiff or tucked)
    • Neutral ears (not pinned back)
    • Play bows (bum up)
    • Bouncing, exaggerated movements
    • Shake off and occasional breaks
    • Body to body slamming
    • Taking turns (you bite me, I bite you, you chase me, I chase you).
    • Self-handicap (gentle with smaller dogs)

    6

    SOCIALIZING THE AGGRESSIVE DOG

    I was recently at a very large dog park attending a Great Dane meetup. 

    A person walked by with a huge Great Dane on a gentle leader. This dog was extremely anxious and on edge, ready to hurt somebody or another dog. 

    He was lunging, snarling and snapping. It was all his owner could do to keep him in control. 

    I suspect the owner was there attempting to ‘socialize’ his dog, but he was actually making the problem worse. 

    Doing this is extremely unfair to the polite, well socialized dogs and puppies that should otherwise feel safe in that environment, and extremely unfair to his anxious dog who needed respect, training, guidance, and appropriate behavior modification under the guidance of a professional.

    If your dog is aggressive, anxious, unpredictable and hard to control you should NOT be visiting dog parks. 

    SIGNS YOUR DOG SHOULD LEAVE THE DOG PARK

    • Humping (sign of overstimulation).
    • Lunging/screaming at the gate to get in or out.
    • Harassing others (cornering, chasing).
    • Chasing, cornering & pinning others (when not part of a mutual game).
    • Barking, lunging, grabbing and pouncing on dogs that have not engaged in play.
    • Tail tucked, shaking, scared, running away.
    • Running off, ignoring your requests to ‘LEAVE IT’ and ‘COME’.
    • Standing over dogs and baring teeth or growling.
    • Nipping, lunging, snapping and other similar warnings to others.
    • Aggression (biting, intent to harm).

    Great Danes are giant breed dogs that can be intimidating to children and other dogs, even when you know that they are as gentle as can be. 

    Respect the fact that others may not see your Great Dane the same way that you do, and make sure that your Great Dane gives people and dogs space when it’s clear they need it. 

    One of the best things we can do as Great Dane owners to change the perception others may have about Giant Breed dogs is to train them, socialize them, and make sure that they truly are the calm, benevolent Apollo of dogs.

  • Train Your Dane: AKC S.T.A.R Puppy

    Train Your Dane: AKC S.T.A.R Puppy

    Training your Great Dane puppy starts on day one with the practice of boundaries, routine and supervision. 

    Every Great Dane should be well socialized and well trained. They are giant breed dogs that can be hard to handle and intimidating when not taught appropriate behavior. 

    We highly recommend finding a highly qualified dog trainer with giant breed experience and beginning puppy classes as soon as possible.

    Even if you think you know how to train your dog, gaining a fresh perspective and up to date training advice is super valuable! Not to mention, dogs that spend time learning in a group setting are also taught early how to ignore other dogs and ignore distractions.  

    AKC S.T.A.R. PUPPY

    The AKC S.T.A.R. puppy program is a fun way to track your training goals and progress. 

    It is the ‘Kindergarten Graduation’ that leads naturally into the more intense requirements of the AKC Canine Good Citizen Program. 

    When you work with a trainer that has been certified as an AKC CGC Evaluator, you are also likely to also be working with an experienced trainer who is using modern training methods. 

    While participating in the AKC Training Programs isn’t required, it’s really fun if you are goals oriented, love recognition, and are interested in eventually appending an officially recognized title (‘CGC’) to your dog’s AKC registered name!  

    BENEFITS OF TAKING A PUPPY CLASS

    When you and your Great Dane puppy take a class together, you will get to learn: 

    • Socialization basics, including confidence building and how to play politely with other puppies.
    • Obedience basics including sit, down, stand, touch, leave it, name, come, heel and ‘go to your place’.
    • Handling skills (how to train, reward and communicate with your dog according to the latest research in training and canine behavior). 
    • How to do all of those things with distractions.
    • Basic puppy care, including advice for mouthing, potty training, crate training and polite greetings.

    121110312 637942817086183 2343886400470340477 n

    AKC S.T.A.R. PUPPY REQUIREMENTS

    To obtain your AKC S.T.A.R. puppy, you and your dog have to take at least 6 classes with an approved AKC CGC Certified Evaluator. 

    You and your puppy will attend the classes and practice the skills at home, in your yard, and even while out and about. 

    As your puppy learns the skills and becomes more confident through socialization and training, your trainer will be able to evaluate your progress and award (or decline) your AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy reward.

    AKC S.T.A.R. PUPPY PROGRAM TEST REQUIREMENTS

    Your trainer will evaluate your dog on 20 items. You and your puppy must pass all 20 items on the list below to be recognized with the S.T.A.R. puppy award.

    Note – as of this writing it is not a requirement to obtain the S.T.A.R. award before attempting to receive the Canine Good Citizen title. The S.T.A.R. award is however a wonderful way to build early skills that are a necessary for the CGC title. 

    OWNER BEHAVIORS:

    1. Maintains puppy’s health (vaccines, exams, appears healthy)

    2. Owner receives Responsible Dog Owner’s Pledge

    3. Owner describes adequate daily play and exercise plan

    4. Owner and puppy attend at least 6 classes by an AKC Approved CGC Evaluator

    5. Owner brings bags to classes for cleaning up after puppy

    6. Owner has obtained some form of ID for puppy-collar tag, etc.

     

    PUPPY BEHAVIORS:

    7. Free of aggression toward people during at least 6 weeks of class

    8. Free of aggression toward other puppies in class

    9. Tolerates collar or body harness of owner’s choice

    10. Owner can hug or hold puppy (depending on size)

    11. Puppy allows owner to take away a treat or toy

     

    PRE-CANINE GOOD CITIZEN® TEST BEHAVIORS:

    12. Allows (in any position) petting by a person other than the owner

    13. Grooming-Allows owner handling and brief exam (ears, feet)

    14. Walks on a Leash-Follows owner on lead in a straight line (15 steps)

    15. Walks by other people-Walks on leash past other people 5-ft away

    16. Sits on command-Owner may use a food lure

    17. Down on command-Owner may use a food lure

    18. Comes to owner from 5-ft when name is called

    19. Reaction to Distractions-distractions are presented 15-ft away

    20. Stay on leash with another person (owner walks 10 steps and returns)

    A NOTE ABOUT VACCINATIONS, PUPPY CLASSES & TRAINING

    It is extremely important to balance health and wellness with training and socialization.

    Keeping a puppy indoors until 18-20 weeks when they are fully vaccinated is a major risk factor for having a timid, shy or even aggressive puppy that is afraid of strangers, dogs and new experiences.

    We do not recommend that you visit pet stores, dog parks or busy locations with your puppy however it can be safe and appropriate to take your puppy to classes with a highly qualified and experienced trainer in a clean and well-sanitized facility.

    Most will require that your puppy is up-to-date on their vaccines, but that doesn’t mean they have to have finished their entire vaccine series before attending. 

    GREAT DANE PUPPY TRAINING

     One thing I really love about the AKC training programs is the focus on owner behaviors! 

    The goal of creating a well-rounded, balanced dog is rooted in a mutual relationship that begins with health, safety and social responsibility in mind. 

    122150529 389816108814325 2034301216464525007 n scaled

    When you complete the requirements for a S.T.A.R. puppy award, you’ll be able to obtain a certificate from the AKC with your dog’s name on it and a medal to begin your collection of awards, achievements and titles.

    THE NEXT STEP: AKC CANINE GOOD CITIZEN

    Good training takes time, repetition, patience and consistency. Once you have completed the requirements for the S.T.A.R. puppy, you may want to continue on and obtain your Great Danes first official title, the CGC! 

    It is not as easy to obtain the CGC title, but it’s very rewarding. 

    You may be looking at your wild puppy or thinking of past dogs that you own and wondering if it’s even possible, but ANY dog can learn enough to pass the AKC CGC test. Don’t be afraid to go for it and try! 

    Canine good citizen test items include: polite confident greetings (dogs & people), acceptance of grooming, loose leash walking, walking through a crowd, sit-down-prolonged stay, coming when called, calm and polite behavior around other dogs, confidence around distractions and supervised separation from the handler. You can read more about the CGC test items here. 

    Note that these test items may not be completed while the dog is wearing a prong, choke, head-collar, shock or e-collar, and you may not offer treats or toys (only praise and encouragement). Your dog must be free of aggression and able to confidently complete the obedience tasks without those tools.

    Whether you choose to train with the goal of S.T.A.R. and CGC in mind or not, the goal is the same. All of us want a calm, polite dog that can follow our lead and is free of reactivity, aggression and frustrating behaviors. 

    Good training is worth every moment you put into it. 

    Have fun with your puppy!

  • Great Dane Puppy Growth Chart

    Great Dane Puppy Growth Chart

    Great Dane puppies grow incredibly fast. We recommend referencing our Great Dane puppy growth chart to learn just HOW fast you can expect your puppy to grow.

    PRO TIP – Take lots of photos!!! These babies gain size at an insane rate, especially in the first 6 months of life.

    Great Dane Puppy Growth Chart

    Keep in mind that these numbers are all averages! Your Great Dane puppy may be above or below these numbers depending on genetics, health and the nutrition that is provided. 

    Great Dane Puppy Growth Chart

    Great Dane Puppy Body Condition

    The following are signs that your puppy may require a change in nutrition, medical attention, and/or special attention to socialization:

    • Weakness & lethargy
    • Diarrhea, vomiting
    • Gas, soft stools
    • Knuckling, growing pains
    • Flat feet
    • Extremely thin (spine & hip bones showing)
    • Lack of muscle tone
    • Extremely round (heavy or distended tummy)
    • Dull coat & eyes, itching
    • Fearful, timid and scared
    • Painful

    Is My Puppy Too Skinny?

    What are the BEST foods for Great Dane Puppies?

    Great Dane puppies are surprisingly lean! This is better for their growth, joints and overall health. Your puppy should have nice fur, bright eyes, tight feet, confidence, and lots of energy when awake.

    The explosive growth period in Great Dane puppies happens from 6 weeks until 6 months. They slow down around then and will eat less, but will continue to grow for much, much longer!

    Great Dane Potty Training

    When do Great Danes Stop Growing?

    On average, Great Dane puppies continue to grow until age 2, at which point they will fill out (develop more muscle mass and breadth of chest and hips).  

    Knuckling is a serious problem in Great Dane puppies that results from explosive growth, incorrect nutrition, and slick or hard surfaces. Read more about knuckling below!

    GREAT DANE PUPPY KNUCKLING INFORMATION

    Great Dane Puppy Growth Chart

    When do Great Dane puppies stop growing? Below you will see a monthly Great Dane growth chart. You will notice that a two month old Great Dane puppy is, on average, 15-30 lbs. These are averages, not every puppy will fit into this chart perfectly.

    Birth1-2 lbs
    1 Week2-3 lbs
    2 Weeks3-5 lbs
    3 Weeks4-7 lbs
    1 Month5-8 lbs
    6 Weeks10-20 lbs
    2 Months15-30 lbs
    3 Months25-45 lbs
    4 Months45-65 lbs
    5 Months60-85 lbs
    6 Months65 – 100 lbs
    7 Months70-110 lbs
    8 Months80-120 lbs
    9 Months85-125 lbs
    1 Year95-120 lbs
    ADULT
    Female110-145lbs
    Male135-170lbs
    65

    Bigger Is Not Better

    There seems to be this fear that our Great Dane puppies just aren’t growing big enough or fast enough.

    There is also a subtle competition at play to have the largest Dane, a contest that often begins with breeders who are breeding for size rather than for structure, health and type.

    Is My Puppy Too Skinny?

    Adding nutrition, fat, and toppers to your Great Dane Puppies diet to ‘fill them out’ or ‘bulk them up’ is one of the worst things you can do. A Great Dane should be lean, muscular, and athletic.

    It’s not a race. Slow growth and building towards an appropriate height and weight is the healthiest choice. 

    You may be looking for a European Great Dane growth chart. European Great Danes and American Great Danes follow breed standards that are nearly identical, and the chart we’ve included in this post is ideal for all Great Danes.

    Euro Danes: A Big, Droopy Problem
    What Does Euro Mean in Great Danes?
    Miniature Great Danes: The Pocket Size Version

    Some breeders have made it their mission to promote bulkier, heavier, droopier Danes as ‘Euro’, often at the expense of the dogs orthopedic structure, eyes and overall health. ‘Euro’ is an aesthetic preference and not actually a sign that a dog is truly ‘European’ or well bred. For more information on the great ‘Euro’ vs. ‘American’ discussion, read our post below.

    WHAT DOES ‘EURO’ MEAN IN GREAT DANES?
    76

    Great Dane Puppy Growth

    Keep in mind that our Great Dane growth chart represents the ‘average’.

    Your puppy may not fall exactly into the range, and that may be ok!

    If your puppy has health problems (including HOD or megaesophagus), comes from smaller genetics, was the ‘runt’ of the litter, failed to thrive or had a rough start they may be on the small side.

    If your puppy comes from a lineage of bigger-boned dogs with a lot of substance or is provided too much nutrition too fast, they may be on the large side.

    Puppy Socialization Guide
    Is My Great Dane Puppy Knuckling?
    How to Prevent Knuckling in Great Dane Puppies
    Is My Great Dane Puppy Too Small?
    How to Fix Knuckling in Great Danes

    DO PUPPIES HAVE GROWTH SPURTS?

    Great Dane height and weight in adults is ultimately determined by a combination of genetics, overall health, nutrition, and care given to protect joints and allow for slow growth.

    Birth1-2 lbs
    1 Week2-3 lbs
    2 Weeks3-5 lbs
    3 Weeks4-7 lbs
    1 Month5-8 lbs
    6 Weeks10-20 lbs
    2 Months15-30 lbs
    3 Months25-45 lbs
    4 Months45-65 lbs
    5 Months60-85 lbs
    6 Months65 – 100 lbs
    7 Months70-110 lbs
    8 Months80-120 lbs
    9 Months85-125 lbs
    1 Year95-120 lbs
    ADULT
    Female110-145lbs
    Male135-170lbs

    The Best Great Dane Puppy Food

    What you feed your Great Dane puppy will matter somewhat when it comes to how slowly or quickly they grow.

    We recommend choosing one of the highly recommended grain-inclusive kibble brands below. These are all formulated correctly with correct protein, fat, calcium and phosphorus levels.

    A large breed puppy formula with an AAFCO statement about being ‘formulated for the growth of large breed (70lb+) dogs is ideal. Click on any to view.

    When choosing other brands, we recommend looking them up in the Pet Nutrition Alliance Database first.

    271631 MAIN. AC SS348 V1631149304
    271628 MAIN. AC SS348 V1626396086
    90757 MAIN. AC SS348 V1635866197

    Check out THE GIANT DOG FOOD PROJECT to compare brands and values.

    19 1

    Should I Feed My Great Dane Puppy or Adult Food?

    How to Weigh a Great Dane

    None of this matters if you cannot actually weigh your Great Dane and keep track of their growth scale!

    Here are some tips:

    • Weigh yourself first. Then reset the scale, hold your puppy and weigh again. Subtract your weight from the weight of you + the puppy combined.
    • Visit the veterinarian. Make going to the vet, stepping on the scale, seeing the vet techs and leaving super fun.
    • Visit your local pet store. Petsmart and some Petco stores that have an in-house veterinarian will often let you use their scale for free! Always ask first. (NOTE: we do not recommend taking young puppies into Petsmart: get those vaccines first!).
    • Ask your groomer or breeder if they have a scale you can borrow.

    Use lots of treats and make the process of being weighed positive! Some puppies are afraid of the slick shiny surface. You can always teach your puppy to sit on a towel, and then put the towel onto the scale to transfer the behavior.

    47

    What Age is a Great Dane Puppy Fully Grown?

    Great Dane puppies experience explosive growth for the first 8 months, after which they tend to slow down. Your puppy will likely eat less and may appear to have stopped growing.

    At this point, however, they are far from done!

    Great Danes will grow in height until they are nearly 2 years old. It is at this age that the growth plates will close and it is appropriate to spay or neuter.

    After age 2, they will continue to fill out. Do not mistake this process for getting fat! Many Great Danes are spayed or neutered at this age and become overweight because of the sudden drop in hormones.

    Filling out means:

    Deeper and fuller chest
    Wider and more developed hips
    Maturation of the head structure
    Muscle development at the shoulders, hips and thighs
    Coverage that reduces the lanky puppy look

    Did you know that waiting to spay or neuter until your puppy is more mature may help reduce the risk of hip dysplasia, ACL/CCL tears, some cancers and poor adult structure?

    READ MORE:

    Zeus The Great Dane: The World’s Tallest Dog

  • Don’t Mistake ‘Filling Out’ with ‘Getting Fat’ – Overweight Great Danes is a HUGE problem

    Don’t Mistake ‘Filling Out’ with ‘Getting Fat’ – Overweight Great Danes is a HUGE problem

    Overweight Great Danes is a HUGE problem.

    It’s fairly common knowledge that as a general rule, Great Danes grow until they are 3.

    They will typically gain height for the first 2 years, and then ‘fill out’ until age 3.

    A lot of people, however, seem to mistake ‘getting fat’ with filling out!

    Great Danes are NOT supposed to be a heavy, weighty breed. Even ‘Euro’ built Danes should be lean and have a defined waist.

    Overweight Great Danes

    OVERWEIGHT GREAT DANES ARE PROBLEMATIC

    Overweight Great Danes are not ‘cute’ or ‘funny’.

    Overweight Great Danes cause Great Danes to live shorter and less healthy lives.

    Back yard breeders have been breeding ‘Euro’ Great Danes, which has made many people think it is normal to have Great Danes be floppy, droopy and ‘fat’.

    Euro Danes: A Big, Droopy Problem
    What Does Euro Mean in Great Danes?

    SPAY & NEUTER

    It is around age 2 when many Great Danes have their spay or neuter.

    Spay and neuter causes a shift in hormones that for many dogs also leads to a slower metabolism and weight gain.

    Many people see this happen and assume their dog is ‘filling out’, when really…their dog is just getting fat.

    It’s important to work with your veterinarian following a spay/neuter to make sure your Great Dane stays active and at a healthy weight. We recommend waiting to spay/neuter until your dog is at least 18 months of age.

    OVERWEIGHT GREAT DANES

    WEIGHT IS BAD FOR DANES

    There seems to be a contest to have the biggest, heaviest Great Dane.

    Excess weight, however is extremely hard on them.

    Most Danes are not built to be 170+lbs. Adding food, satin balls and coconut oil to their diet to ‘bulk them up’ or ‘fill them out’ is extremely unhealthy.

    Most Danes may look lean, but very few actually need help gaining weight.

    Dogs that are kept at a health weight live on average 2 years longer than their overweight counterparts. 

    Being ‘EURO’ is not a reason for a Dane to be heavy, stocky or chunky. 

    OVERWEIGHT GREAT DANES

    Lean, fit dogs have an easier time playing, walking, running, and getting around.

    As a society we are so used to seeing heavy dogs that we may find it alarming to see a dog that has been kept lean and at a healthy weight!

    There is nothing cute about letting your Great Dane get fat.

    Overweight dogs are more likely to suffer from:

    • Diabetes
    • Bladder Stones
    • Heart Disease
    • Hypertension
    • Cancer
    • Osteoarthritis
    • Anesthesia complications
    OVERWEIGHT GREAT DANES

    (An overweight Great Dane, above)

    WHAT IS FILLING OUT?

    In Great Danes, filling out refers to the process of the dog developing breadth/width in the chest and hips, as well as developing muscle mass.

    Neither one of those things has to do with becoming heavy. Good muscle development is extremely important for Great Danes!

    As your Great Dane matures and finishes filling out, you may notice a broader chest and hips, stronger more developed shoulders and larger more defined hip and thigh muscles.

    Miniature Great Danes: The Pocket Size Version
    Is My Puppy Too Skinny?

    Their face will mature quite a bit and you may notice an increase on the scale, but that’s not necessarily from fat!

    Keep your Great Dane active. ***Many people believe that Great Danes should be restricted from exercise as a means to reduce the risk of bloat. At this time, studies indicate that there is no advantage to restricting water or activity, even following meals. There are, however, many advantages to allowing your Great dane to move naturally on soft, varied terrain (fields, hiking trails, etc.)

    Below is a health, well-muscled 17 month old intact male Great Dane that is just beginning to ‘fill out’. He is still very lean and gangly and has a lot of maturing left to do:

    OVERWEIGHT GREAT DANES

    Below is a photo of his Grandfather, a mature AKC CH. Great Dane that has been kept at a healthy weight. This gives you a good picture of what a Dane may look like as a young pup and then later as a more mature, filled-out adult.

    You can see that an outline of the ribs may be visible, and the dog has a waist that can be viewed from both the side and above. His head, chest and hips have become broader and have matured. He is not heavy or overweight!

    OVERWEIGHT GREAT DANES

    GENETICS MATTER

    Genetics really matter when it comes to size! Don’t compare the weight of your Dane to the weight of others. 

    Even two Danes of the same weight can look massively different, depending on their body fat ratio, muscle development and overall structure.

    Run from any breeder whose focus is on creating the largest, droopiest, heaviest dogs out there.

    If they are advertising weights as a means to prove their breeding stock, they may not have the best interest of the dogs in mind.  A healthy, well-bred Great Dane is the Apollo of dogs, and will be large without being uncomfortably heavy. 

    HOW TO KEEP YOUR GREAT DANE AT A HEALTHY WEIGHT

    • Choose a high quality, nutrient dense diet and don’t over-feed
    • Keep dietary fat content at or below 14%
    • Keep your Great Dane active! A short walk each night on pavement is not enough exercise for most dogs to stay lean, fit, and mentally healthy.
    • Free play and exploration on varied terrain (grass, sand, gravel, hills, rocks, etc.) is important for physical & mental health, and we believe is more important than leashed walks on the sidewalk.
    • Tug of war, flirt poles (for dogs age 2+), and hiking can be wonderful ways to bond with your dog and keep them in great shape!
    • Take a FitPaws class with a qualified instructor.

    The information contained in this post is for informational purposes only. We do our best to present the most up-to-date research, however it is up to the reader to make decisions regarding the health and well-being of their dog. We make no claims here to prevent or treat bloat or any other condition related to Great Danes. Find a veterinarian with GIANT breed experience, and chat with them. 

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