Author: Hello Danes

  • The Best E-Collars for Great Danes

    The Best E-Collars for Great Danes

    Are you looking for the best e-collar for your Great Dane? Look no further! In this blog post, we will discuss:

    We will also provide information on how to choose the right e-collar for your dog and how to use it safely, humanely, and effectively.

    Use our table of contents below to navigate (the headings are clickable!). This post is JAM PACKED with E-Collar information!

    The Best E-Collars for Great Danes

    5 Reasons to Choose E-Collar Training for your Giant Breed Dog

    At Hello Danes we believe in modern, humane, positive E-Collar training. Here are 5 quick reasons to choose this for your pet!

    • Unlike harnesses, collars, and leashes, the E-Collar uses absolutely no physical pressure or restraint.

    This can be very important when you have a large, strong dog like the Great Dane! Not only that, but a Great Dane’s neck is very sensitive. We should not be relying heavily on any tools or leash attachment points that add ongoing physical pressure to the neck, chest, face, or back.

    • E-Collar training is also very versatile.

    You can use it for obedience training, recall, behavior modification, safety, boundaries, and more.

    • E-Collars are also very safe, gentle, and humane when used properly.

    We are providing you with tons of training tips in this post, or visit our famous Great Dane E-Collar training guide!

    • Remote-collar trained dogs are a joy to take on hikes, walks, and trips to the dog park.

    E-Collar training gives you the freedom to enjoy your dog without having to worry about them running off or getting into trouble.

    • E-Collar training is a fun, positive experience for your dog!

    If you’ve found our blog post today you may be wondering if choosing a shock or E-Collar for your Great Dane is even the right choice.

    Chances are, you are feeling frustrated or overwhelmed by your Great Dane and some behavioral issues, including running off, jumping the fence, barking, and eating off the counter.

    Or maybe you are hoping to improve recall and give your dog off-leash freedom.

    Perhaps you heard that training tools like this (or prong collars) were abusive, aversive, punishing, and harmful to your dog. (Pro-tip, this is NOT true!)

    We hear you, friend! You are in the right place. Read on for more information (or check out some of our popular links below).

    6 E-Collar Training Myths BUSTED

    5 GREAT Reasons to E-Collar Train Your Dog

    Don’t Make These E-Collar Training Mistakes

    3 1

    How do E-Collars Work?

    Modern E-Collars (the kind we recommend below) work by emitting a low level of stimulation to the dog’s neck.

    The stimulation is similar to that of a medical-grade TENS unit. It does not zap or feel sharp, but rather feels like a tickle or muscle twitch.

    This sensation completely replaces the physical pressure that your dog would otherwise feel from a leash, harness, or regular dog collar.

    This virtual, wireless ‘pressure’ can be used in a number of ways to communicate with your dog from a distance.

    As an added bonus, it cannot cause your dog ANY physical harm or orthopedic damage from pulling into a leash, harness, or dog collar. This truly is the most gentle and effective way to train your giant breed dog.

    SHOCK COLLARS are different.  These antiquated training tools rely on static to sharply ‘zap’ the dog, not unlike a cattle prod, hot wire fence, or sticking your wet finger in a plug socket.

    The goal of a shock collar is to punish the dog for doing something wrong. 

    Shock is startling and often painful. These devices are cheap and easy to find on Amazon or even the local pet store

    The cheaper the shock collar, the more likely it is to be unreliable (including shocking dogs at too high of a level or otherwise malfunctioning).

    We do not recommend shock collars or old-style shock collar training for any reason.

    Read on to learn about the more modern, effective, humane choice: E-Collars. 

    What is the difference between a Shock Collar and an E-Collar?

    Gentle Leader vs. Prong Collar: The Great Debate

    Our Review of the Gentle Leader Dog Collar

    IMG 4020

    The Benefits of E-Collar Training Dogs

    With some simple conditioning and training, a properly used E-Collar is a very positive tool that can help you: 

    • Teach your dog to have a reliable and enthusiastic recall (off-leash freedom, finally!)
    • Have your dog calmly ignore dogs and people walking by
    • Stop lunging and jumping
    • Keep your dog safely behind an invisible boundary
    • Stop fence jumping, once and for all
    • Put an end to nuisance barking
    • Stop counter surfing
    • Redirect your dog away from rude social interactions
    • Immediately recall your dog to you in an emergency

    All without pain, fear or frustration.

    We are here to be a resource for you when it comes to all things E-Collar, positive dog training, and more.

    A well-trained Great Dane is happier, healthier and a joy to live with!

    We do not recommend the purchase of any cheap shock collar for any reason. Cheap shock collars are made to punish, and E-Collars are made to communicate. 

    5 Great Reasons to E-Collar Train Your Dog

    Things that are MORE Aversive than an E-Collar

    Is ‘Positive’ Training Really Positive? How to Choose a Dog Trainer

    16

    The Best E-Collar Models for Giant Breed Dogs

    We highly recommend E-Collar Technologies Educator series collars (ET-300ET-400 and ET-900 models).

    While we do offer them in our store ($10 off with code ECOLLARMAGIC), you can also buy them directly from the manufacturer. Amazon may have knockoffs or outdated models, so buyer beware.

    We love these collars because they have pioneered modern off-lead dog training, and developed a proprietary tapping sensation that doesn’t hurt, punish, scare or harm your dog.

    We will be covering each model’s features and pricing below so that you can choose the best training collar for your dog.

    EASY Educator collar

    The Mini-Educator (300), the Educator (400) and the EZ Educator (900) models all offer adjustable stimulation levels from 1-100.

    Most dogs will respond enthusiastically and work at levels 10-15 or less. The majority of humans can barely feel the stimulation, if at all, until level 8 or more!

    Your dog will first be taught to have a positive association with this low-level sensation.

    Our Top Pick for Beginners: the Mini-Educator

    The Mini-Educator is our top pick for beginners because it is the most affordable option that still offers all of the features you need to get started with E-Collar training.

    The Mini-Educator has a half-mile range and if you have two dogs, you can purchase a system with two collars!

    e-collar for Great Danes

    The Mini-Educator remote collar is a simple, easy-to-use, and rugged system.

    The receiver and remote are impact-resistant and waterproof, and features include adjustable stimulation, vibration sensation, tone, and night light. 

    We recommend the Mini-Educator for Great Dane owners that need a 1/2 mile or less range and want an easy-to-use choice without bonus frills.

    From a tactile standpoint, the round shape of the remote is not only fun and unique but feels great in the hand!

    Different skins can be purchased to change the color.

    Included with your Mini-Educator remote training system:

    Remote

    Receiver

    Biothane dog collar with metal buckles

    Lanyard

    Two sizes of contact points

    Contact point changing tool

    Charging cable

    Manual

    We are an authorized dealer of Educator collars. When you purchase from us, you’ll be receiving the latest model direct from their warehouse.

    We also provide email training support and training support in our online community!

    https://www.hellodanes.com/product/mini-educator-remote-dog-e-collar-e-collar-technologies/

    Our Top Pick for Long-Distance Dogs: The Educator Collar

    The Educator remote collar looks almost identical to the Mini-Educator but offers a bigger range (3/4 mile) than the Mini-Educator listed above.

    The receiver and remote are rugged and waterproof, and features include adjustable stimulation, vibration sensation, tone, and night light.

    The Educator is also available in a one or two-dog system if you have multiple dogs!

    We recommend the Educator for Great Dane owners that need more range than the Mini-Educator (ET-300) series can offer but still prefer simplicity and ergonomics.

    Choose the one or two-dog system below, and get started! 

    https://www.hellodanes.com/product/educator-remote-dog-e-collar-e-collar-technologies-et400/

    Our top pick for multiple dog homes: The EZ-Educator

    EZ 900 3x5 300dpi

    The EZ Educator remote collar offers a 1/2 mile range and endless customization options.

    The receiver and remote are rugged and waterproof. Features include adjustable stimulation, adjustable vibration sensation, adjustable tone, and more!

    The EZ Educator is available in a one, two, three or four dog system and is often the tool of choice for professional dog trainers.

    We recommend the EZ Educator for Great Dane owners that love technology and like having a lot of choices in their hands.

    The EZ Educator system can be used with up to four dogs (one remote controls each dog independently) and is endlessly customizable.

    Remember, no two dogs are the same, and this tool addresses that beautifully.

    Read our IN-DEPTH review of the ET-900 model HERE →

    + 1/2 Mile Range

    + One or Two Dog System

    + Stim levels 1-100

    + Stim Boost

    + Tapping Sensation

    + Tone

    + Night tracking light

    + Compact, ergonomic remote

    + 2-Hour Charge

    + Waterproof & Impact Resistant

    https://www.hellodanes.com/product/easy-educator-remote-dog-e-collar-e-collar-technologies-et-900-series/

    We are an authorized E-Collar Technologies dealer and chose to work with this brand, not the others because it’s the one we believe in the most!

    They have the best customer service and the most reliable E-Collars we’ve worked with.  

    When you order from Hello Danes, you are backed by Great Dane lovers and will receive the latest model collar directly from the manufacturer.  

    We are here to support you with all of your Great Dane, positive training, and E-Collar questions! 

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    E-Collar Training Information & FAQ

    Imagine reliably training your Great Dane using communication that you may barely be able to feel yourself.

    Contrary to popular belief, you do NOT need to shock or scare your dog into obedience.

    The E-Collar is a powerful tool that when used correctly, provides much more outstanding results than traditional shock collar training! EVEN with large, in-charge, and currently out-of-control dogs. 

    Of course, because the E-Collar is adjustable (100 different levels!) you can find the magic place where your dog responds. Then, you can easily utilize a stronger stimulation or the more aversive vibration sensation for the times when the dog is distracted or needs immediate redirection for safety reasons. 

    ET-900 Educator Collar Review

    How I found Balanced Training

    From Running Away to Off-Leash

    E-Collar tips that you must know!

    1. E-Collar training begins with teaching the dog to associate the stim feeling with positive things such as treats, praise, fun and attention. Not punishment!
    2. Proper E-Collar training relies heavily on positive reinforcement. You can teach a dog MUCH faster if you first teach and reward them for the behavior that you want, and then use the E-Collar to clarify the communication.
    3. Unlike zap and startle shock collar training, your dog will be an active participant in training. 

    Can I punish my dog with an E-Collar?

    There is a time and a place for using higher levels as a means to communicate “NO” to your dog.

    However, when used correctly, this is a tiny piece of proper E-Collar training (if used at all).

    Having a dog ‘cower and run’ when you ‘show them the remote’ is not a positive thing.

    With E-Collar training, the remote is never a threat, and scaring your dog into obedience isn’t the goal. 

    Can I use an E-Collar on a Great Dane puppy?

    We recommend starting Great Dane collar training only once your dog (or puppy) has a solid basic obedience foundation.

    Your dog should know how to sit, down, come and ‘place’ (or stay) at a basic level, and they should enjoy learning with you!

    Once that foundation is in place, you can start your E-Collar conditioning at any time (usually around 4-6 months of age).

    Great Dane puppies are incredibly smart and loyal! By implementing modern, gentle training you’ll soon have an incredible gentle giant that can be off-leash with you, anywhere you go.

    Do big dogs need more powerful collars?

    This myth is brought to you by people with no credible background in canine education!

    Large dogs are just as responsive and sensitive to gentle e-collar stimulation as small dogs are.

    The best collars for large breed dogs and our gentle giants are also the most gentle! The modern e-collar works incredibly well without harsh corrections.

    What about bark collars?

    We recommend the use of the Sport Dog bark collar ONLY after you have addressed all of the root reasons behind barking: boredom, anxiety, frustration, aggression, and habit. You can read our Great Dane barking article HERE.

    By choosing a different brand for bark corrections, your dog will have a different association with the collar. When your dog barks, the SportDog bark collar will issue a correction. Never use cheap bark collars as they can make dogs suspicious, cautious and nervous.

    ET 400 TxRx

    How to Teach Recall with an E-Collar

    • First, the dog is conditioned to view the stim sensation, at a low level, as a positive thing. Stim = treats and praise, YAY! If you do this correctly, the dog will feel the stim and get really excited about it. 
    • Second, the dog is taught, using positive reinforcement what the word ‘COME’ means. Starting at a short distance with no distractions, the dog quickly learns without error or correction that COME = good things such as praise, games, and treats.
    • Third, the dog learns that STIM + COME together = come back, starting at a short distance. Because both STIM and COME = good things, the dog responds. 
    • With just a few short weeks of practice, you can then utilize stim and positive reinforcement to your advantage at increasing distances and around more distractions such as people, dogs, cars and children.
    • As the dog returns, you can use the dial to gradually reduce the stim sensation, similar to a game of hot and cold…only in this case, ‘cold’ is the goal! .
    • The dog quickly learns that staying close and coming back = being able to turn the stim sensation both down and eventually off, which is VERY rewarding to the dog.

    Remember, with E-Collar training your dog is an ACTIVE participant in the training, and that’s why it works! 

    E-Collar Myths

    Here are some common myths about E-Collar training.

    E-Collar training is NOT cruel. The E-Collar is a tool, and like any tool, it can be used correctly or incorrectly.

    The goal of E-Collar training is to establish clear communication with your dog in order to have a better relationship and give your dog MORE freedom!

    Read on for more common misconceptions about our favorite dog training tool!

    Myth: E-Collars just shock the crap out of dogs

    Many people believe that the only reason a dog is responsive to their training collar is that you are ‘shocking the crap out of them’ until they come back.

    This couldn’t be farther from the truth.

    When your cell phone rings, you answer it. It doesn’t hurt you, scare you, punish you, or make you aggressive but it is mildly annoying.

    The gentle sensation from the dog collar works the same way. It doesn’t hurt your dog, and just like your cell phone, your dog knows how to turn it off!

    All they have to do is come running towards you.

    Myth: Your dog is only trained because you forced them

    Some people promote the misguided idea that an electric training collar only works because the dog is being punished and forced.

    Remember, the stimulation simply replaces pressure from a harness, prong collar, flat collar, or any other type of dog collar.

    If we’re going to talk about force, let’s talk about that. Physical restraint is a form of force that is completely removed when you choose off-leash training.

    Your dog will be free to move naturally without restrictions, and all they have to do is be responsive to boundaries that you communicate to them using a gentle tactile sensation.

    A Great Dane wearing an e-collar is a large dog that is being kept safe, without frustration, pain, or punishment.

    As a matter of fact, I’m writing this as we speak with my completely off-leash, intact male Great Dane sitting by my side.

    We are on my front porch, in an unfenced yard, with dogs and people walking by. He is calm, happy, and loving life!

    Myth: A long leash is more humane

    Because people incorrectly believe that all training collars are being used to punish and harm dogs, they will also promote the idea that a long leash is a humane alternative.

    While a long leash is necessary during training, it should not be considered the more ‘humane’ choice.

    Long leashes can be exceptionally dangerous! If your dog is at the end of a 20-foot lead, you have very little control.

    A dog can become tangled or wrapped up by a leash, and excessive force and pressure may be placed on the neck, chest, and shoulders as a result.

    Additionally, it is unsafe for dogs to greet each other while on a leash.

    Zooming, making circles, running with abandon, zipping through the ocean waves, swimming, climbing up onto or under things, and having a healthy play session with another dog are activities that are unsafe while on any kind of leash (including a long line).

    Ditching the leash and using a modern E-Collar instead is the most humane, safe, and effective choice! It is unfair to keep dogs on a leash for their entire life when there is a modern, fantastic alternative!

    Myth: Your dog will become aggressive if you use a training collar!

    This misguided belief is based on incorrect use. Aggression, frustration, fear, and anxiety can be caused by all forms of training, including positive reinforcement and force-free training!

    As a matter of fact, some of the most reactive and frustrated dogs we know were trained using ‘force-free’ methods. It is unfair to place blanket blame on this tool.

    If you are turning the stimulation up to aversive levels and intentionally doing so to hurt, scare and punish your dog on a regular basis, without conditioning them to the collar first, then yes.

    You can cause aggression.

    But used correctly? Nope.

    Chances are, you’ll find that your dog is actually calmer, happier, and LESS reactive. Being off-leash is so much more enriching and freeing to dogs than spending life isolated from experiences or trapped by physical restraint devices.

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    Great Dane TrainingTips & Tricks

    • Never leave your great dane in their e-collar unattended
    • Rotate the collar often, and make sure that you have chosen the correct fit for your dog’s neck size. The collar should fit snug and not rub.
    • Consider investing in contact points made of different metals if your dog has sensitive skin
    • Use lots of positive reinforcement, and build a solid foundation before getting started!
    • Check out our famous E-Collar Training for Great Danes guide, which walks you step by step through the process from untrained to off-leash in just weeks.

    Where to Buy E-Collars for a Great Dane

    Visit our E-Collar shop, and feel free to reach out and ask questions!

    We ONLY recommend and sell what we use on our own beloved dogs.

    All of the products in our shop have been personally tested by us, and we are happy to answer any questions that you may have! We ship dog training collars directly from the manufacturer’s warehouse, so you are sure to get the latest model.

    Not to mention, we are here for you with email support, or join our group and ask questions.

    We regularly take 5 happy Great Danes off-leash, thanks to E-Collars and positive reinforcement training. Need more motivation?

    Use THIS COUPON for $10 off your purchase of Educator Collars from our online shop: ECOLLARMAGIC

    Shop E-Collars below!

  • What is the Difference Between an E-Collar and a Shock Collar?

    What is the Difference Between an E-Collar and a Shock Collar?

    There is a massive difference between an E-Collar and shock collar. It’s frustrating that so many trainers and dog owners misunderstand E-Collars, because they are something that, as primarily positive trainers, we stand behind.

    In other words, we don’t believe that they should have the same negative reputation as a tool of force and corrections that shock collars do.

    Today, I wanted to address this and clear the air! If you’ve been around our blog a bit, you know that we support responsible E-Collar use, but NOT shock collars.

    Interested in learning more about why? Read on…

    SHOCK COLLAR:

    + Sharp static shock, similar to a hot electric fence or sticking your finger into an outlet
    + Designed to scare a dog away from a behavior
    + Often painful and always startling
    + Typically offers a warning beep and/or vibrate function, which can mislead dog owners into feeling they are using the tool humanely
    +Relies on ‘easy button’ method training, where the dog is the subject of the training, not a participant in it
    +Can cause frustration and confusion, especially with poor shock timing
    +Scientifically proven to increase fearful and distressed body language, including lip licking, pinning ears, cowering and yelping
    +Scientifically proven to increase reactivity and aggression
    +Often sold inexpensively online and in pet stores
    +Often, though not always also used for invisible fences. Barrier frustration is common.

    E-COLLAR:

    + Blunt muscle stimulation, exactly like a TENS unit from a doctor or therapist
    + Designed to be a communication tool, not a correction tool
    + Not painful. Feels like a tickle or tiny ants
    + May offer a warning beep or blunt vibration, which many E-Collar trainers find they never use. Vibration is much more aversive than blunt stim to many dogs
    +Relies on the dog having a positive association with the sensation, and being an active participant in training
    +Enhances communication and reduces frustration. Allows for more freedom.
    +When used correctly, is proven to be a humane and effective training method with no added fear or stress.
    +Can increase confidence and freedom and reduce reactivity and aggression
    +Only a few companies make E-Collars, they are more expensive and high quality
    +Are becoming more common with electric fences, and can be used to teach boundaries.

    SHOCK COLLARS & E-COLLARS ARE VERY DIFFERENT TOOLS

    Many people resort to a shock collar when they’ve reached their limit with a dog that is exhibiting frustrating and dangerous behaviors such as jumping and running away.
    Copy of Copy of Copy of Untitled

    The typical approach to shock collar training includes being ready to hit the ‘easy button’ and startle the dog using beep, vibrate or shock away from an inappropriate behavior.

    This action is very rewarding to the person holding the remote, but often frustrating and confusing to the dog.

    THE PROBLEM WITH SHOCK COLLARS

    When a dog is unsure about the corrections or how to respond to them, they become confused. Many begin to show escalating signs of frustration and fear.

    They may yelp, cower, tuck and run or even redirect their anxiety into reactivity. Many continue to ‘act out’ or are labeled as  ‘stubborn’ when they continue to repeat incorrect behaviors.

    A lot of dog owners will ‘show the dog the remote’ as a threat to push them into compliance. The dog sees it and runs away, often cowering and showing subtle signs of stress. In this common scenario, the threat has become the tool, and that threat is heavily relied upon.

    This practice creates a training environment where the dog is under control only because of fear and restrictions, not because they’ve actually been taught right from wrong and given freedom and autonomy. 

    Shock and startle easy-button training is what gives electronic dog collars a bad name, and it’s a misconception we are out to fix.

    Have you made this mistake in training your dog? Don’t stress and simply read on!

    E-COLLAR TRAINING

    The first step in E-Collar training is to establish the dogs ‘working level’. E-Collars are adjustable. The working level is the point where the dog feels the stimulation.

    For many dogs, their ‘working level’ is almost imperceptible to humans. Imagine training your dog with something so gentle! It feels like a small tingle or ants crawling on the skin.

    The next step is to pair the stimulation with positive things. Stim, treat. Stim, treat.

    The dog quickly becomes EXCITED about the stim!

    Proper E-Collar training does NOT rely on force, fear or harsh shock corrections.

    Now, you may be asking how a large, in-charge dog could possibly be responsive to this, and that is where the magic of E-Collar training comes into play.

    With E-Collars, the dog is an ACTIVE participant in the training. They learn exactly what the stimulation (communication) means and understand how to turn the stimulation down or off by making choices.

    Turning the stimulation down and off is very rewarding to them, and many dogs enjoy the mental enrichment aspect. It builds their confidence, especially as the training allows them more freedom.

    The stimulation is simply an annoyance; it’s not painful and it doesn’t have to scare them.

    They also understand that the stimulation means ‘turn around’ and come back, because doing so always results in good things (especially at first).

    When you do have to use a more intense stim to redirect your dog or get his/her attention in a dangerous or inappropriate situation, the dog knows exactly what to do and doesn’t associate the sensation with the environment.

    Remember, E-Collar training is a lifestyle. Shock collar training is a bandaid.

    Even large and ‘in-charge’ type dogs can make a complete 180 with proper training using positive reinforcement and the E-Collar as a communications tool.

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    THE BEST E-COLLARS FOR GREAT DANES

    We stand by E-Collar Technologies training systems, which offer adjustable blunt stim and multi-dog models.

    Shop E-Collars for your Great Dane here! We are an authorized distributor of E-Collar Technologies models and would love to help you give your dog off-leash freedom!

    If you’ve previously used a shock collar, that’s ok! Start over again with the E-Collar. It’s a completely different tool and used a completely different way. We are here for you if you have questions!

    A properly used E-Collar is MORE humane, MORE effective and LESS aversive than:

    • vibration mode
    • a leash
    • a no-pull harness
    • a head harness
    • a prong or choke collar
    • leash pressure
    • a collar grab
    • a harsh verbal correction
    • a leash pop
    • a spray bottle
    • a can of pennies
    • endless restrictions to freedom and autonomy because of dangerous behaviors such as fence jumping, excessive pulling and running away.

      Why do we stand behind E-Collars?
      Because happy, confident, well-trained dogs that have autonomy and freedom make excellent family pets and good canine citizens.

      Shop E-Collars, shipped quickly to you here. 

    Do you E-Collar train? Share your experience below!

  • How Dogs Learn – The Basics for Great Dane Training

    How Dogs Learn – The Basics for Great Dane Training

    Natalie and I were having a LONG discussion the other day about dog training (we both LOVE to train our Danes!) and realized that some of the nerdy and more technical aspects of dog training can be really complicated and overwhelming.

    People think of training as teaching a puppy to sit, lay down and not pee in the house.

    Those are basics. Easy to teach, but in the grand scheme of creating well-behaved, happy and polite family dogs those skills are just the tip of the iceberg.

    If you are struggling to move past the cute puppy basics, this post is for you!

    1

    FIRST, UNDERSTAND THIS

    Operant Conditioning is a big fancy word for ‘how dogs (and people) learn’.

    Operant conditioning involves punishment and reward. This is where the magic of dog training comes to play.

    Understanding this concept is to put magic in your hands!

    We encourage you to let go of the idea that all bad behavior is the result of ‘stubbornness’ or ‘dominance’, or that all punishment means hurting or abusing a dog.

    Positive does not necessarily mean ‘YAY’, and negative doesn’t necessarily mean ‘OUCH’ or bad, either!

    Positive means to add something. Negative means to take it away.

    Read on.

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    5

    THE FOUR QUADRANTS OF OPERANT CONDITIONING

    POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT: This one is easy. You can teach a dog to do nearly anything from recall (COME) and stay to silly tricks by using this quadrant!

    Examples:

    • A treat for sitting
    • Praise for going potty outside
    • An ear scratch for sitting calmly while another dog walks by
    • A frozen stuffed Kong for completing a short stay (and then encouraging the stay to continue) on a mat
    • A treat, praise, or play session for taking 10 steps in a row by your side (heel position)

    You can even use the environment as a reward! For example, if your dog sits politely by the door and waits until you say ‘FREE’ before they run out, their access to the yard is the reward.

    Positive reinforcement is NOT all about treats. It’s about adding something the dog likes to encourage the dog to increase a behavior that you want. Use that information to your advantage and think about ways to apply positive reinforcement to your routine outside of ‘sit-treat’.

    With all positive reinforcement, once the behavior is ‘installed’ and starts to become reliable, you can reduce the rewards and even eliminate them.

    R Positive Reinforcement

    NEGATIVE REINFORCEMENT: This quadrant is one of the most difficult to apply correctly. It involves the removal of something the dog doesn’t want or like, in exchange for them doing the behavior you want. The removal of the negative thing is the reward (reinforcement).

    Examples:

    • Applying pressure to the dog to sit and releasing it when they sit
    • Using leash pressure to teach the dog to come back or walk nicely on a leash (pressure = turn towards you, pressure relieved is the reward for that behavior)
    • Asking for a recall by using the stim on an e-collar on continuous, then turning the stim off when the dog returns (or turning it down gradually as they return, like a game of hot-cold)
    • Asking a dog that is afraid of something to sit or look, then moving them away from the scary thing as a reward for doing that behavior
    • Pinching a dogs ear until they take a toy into their mouth (also known as a forced retrieve), then letting go of the pinch as soon as they do (relief from the pinch is the reward for doing the behavior)
    • Opening a door (barrier/restriction) in exchange for polite wait/sit behavior.

    Negative reinforcement should always be paired with positive reinforcement.

    R Positive Reinforcement 1

    POSITIVE PUNISHMENT: You use this one every single time you say the word NO to your dog! Positive punishment does not mean ‘sunshine and rainbows’. It means adding (positive, +) something the dog doesn’t like to decrease a behavior.

    Examples:

    • Whacking a dog in the side with a rolled up towel
    • Throwing a bag of chains on the floor to startle the dog
    • Spraying a dog in the face with a water bottle
    • Rolling a dog on its back (alpha roll) / pinning
    • Deliberately using the vibrate or stim on an e-collar as a correction
    • Using beep, vibrate or shock on a cheap shock collar as a correction
    • The collar on an electric fence issuing a shock when a dog crosses the boundary
    • Jabbing the dog in the neck with two fingers
    • Popping a prong collar with a leash

    Positive punishment can mean anything from a mild correction (‘NO!’) to flat out abuse (kicking a dog or choking it). Tread cautiously with positive punishment! There is never a need to alpha roll/pin or hurt a dog. Punitive positive punishment is what gives many dog trainers a bad name.

    Is your trainer relying heavily on positive punishment and calling it ‘discipline’ or ‘dominance’? We encourage you to find a new, more modern trainer!

    When using an e-collar, do NOT think of it as an ‘easy’ button. It’s not. You still need to condition your dog (using positive reinforcement) to understand what the stim means and teach the behavior you want.

    Only then is it appropriate to use the stim as a corrections tool, and if done correctly you’ll rarely use it that way AT ALL.

    NOTE: We DO NOT condone the practice of purchasing and using cheap low quality shock collars, especially to ‘correct’ things such as puppy biting, aggression, resource guarding, crate barking or lunging. Many dogs have been ruined and become aloof, fearful and confused by this practice…plus, without guidance you lose a VALUABLE opportunity to appropriately apply stim as a positive means to communicate and strengthen behaviors. No ethical dog trainer will recommend that you use a cheap shock collar and ‘easy-button’ shock/vibrate/beep training.  

    Quality e-collars that use a blunt stim (similar to a tens machine and feels more like a muscle stimulation than a shock) are the only electric collars that we recommend. Dogtra, E-Collar Technologies and Garmin are brands to consider, and we recommend using them with guidance and/or diligent research.

    R Positive Reinforcement 2

    NEGATIVE PUNISHMENT: This quadrant is when you remove something the dog finds rewarding in order to decrease a behavior.

    Examples:

    • Locking the trash can so the dog cannot dig through it (removal of the joy of eating trash)
    • Putting a dog that jumps the fence on a leash in the yard (removal of the reward of jumping the fence)
    • Turning your back on a puppy that is playing too rough with you/puppy biting or demand barking at you (removal of your attention)
    • Standing with feet planted on a walk if your dog pulls (removal of the reward involved with moving forward). This one, in a way goes with Negative Reinforcement example above, that leash pressure is relieved when the dog chooses to stop pulling and turn back towards you!
    • Putting the dog behind a baby gate (removal of access to guests she wants to jump all over)

    Negative punishment is a very common, easy way to manage the environment and works best when you are very consistent. While the crate should NEVER be seen as punishment, it is a great tool for management and time outs!

    Negative punishment, boundaries, and NOT practicing incorrect behavior go hand in hand! If you are struggling with a dog that jumps, steals, begs or destroys things negative punishment is 100% your friend.

    However, negative punishment should not be used in excess; relying on restrictions to freedom, movement and choice is not always the most humane choice. ‘Errorless learning’ and strict behavior management to avoid corrections can be very frustrating, unfair and confusing to dogs so tread cautiously and always look for ways to communicate, guide, teach and train.

    R Positive Reinforcement 3

    POSITIVE VS. BALANCED DOG TRAINING

    If we really were to boil this down, there are only a few differences between a ‘positive’ trainer and a ‘balanced’ trainer.

    Positive trainers try to not use positive punishment or negative reinforcement. Basically put, they will opt for behavioral management and negative punishment before using anything that may be considered a ‘correction’.

    Balanced trainers will use all four quadrants, and that includes the use of e-collars, prongs and other corrections to apply positive reinforcement, positive punishment, negative punishment and negative reinforcement.

    GOOD balanced trainers rely heavily on positive reinforcement, and GOOD positive trainers recognize that putting a leash on a dog or withholding a treat until the dog sits is aversive (punishing and yes, ‘balanced’) in some way.

    GOOD balanced trainers use the E-Collar as a communications tool, not a corrections one. GOOD positive trainers are realistic about how no-pull and front-clip harnesses work (they are not a positive tool).

    The ultimate goal of either trainer should not be to ‘beat dogs into submission’, spoil them, scare them, make them obese with treats or frustrate them…but to teach and guide dogs and owners into a harmonious and healthy relationship.

    How can you apply the four quadrants of operant conditioning to strengthen your ability to communicate with your Great Dane?

    Heres what to AVOID when training your Great Dane.

  • Off-Color & Designer Color Great Danes, Good or Bad?

    Off-Color & Designer Color Great Danes, Good or Bad?

    Great Danes come in a range of beautiful colors. Brindle, merle, black, mantle, fawn, blue, and harlequin are the 7 colors typically accepted in the written breed standards. Deviations from the breed standard can result in a range of coat colors not traditionally associated with Great Danes. There exists a prevailing concern among breed enthusiasts and experts regarding the intentional breeding of off-standard and designer color Great Danes.

    Merlequin, Brindlequin, Fawnequin, Lilac Merle, Tan Point, and chocolate are popular ‘off-standard’ colors, to give you some examples.

    Many Great Dane owners are drawn to breeders who focus on creating eye-catching coat patterns in their puppies. Read on to learn more about this controversial practice!

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    What is an Off-Standard Color Great Dane?

    This is a big one folks, buckle up! 

    What is an off-standard color Great Dane, or “designer color’ Great Dane?

    It’s a Great Dane that is NOT one of the 7 currently accepted colors in the written breed standard.

    The 7 Great Dane colors are Black, Mantle, Blue, Harlequin, Merle, Brindle, and Fawn. You can read more about them here: https://www.hellodanes.com/great-dane-colors/ 

    Mis-marked versions of the accepted colors (for example, a Fawn with no black mask or a Brindle with a white chest are always a penalty in the show ring, and any color that isn’t one of those seven is automatically disqualified from the show altogether. Most can be registered, however!

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    Color Purists vs. Color Enthusiasts

    There are two major schools of thought on this one.

    Color Purists & Breed Preservationists

    This group believes that purposefully breeding Danes in off-standard colors is bad and that new colors should only be added to the accepted color code following diligent research into the color and its benefit to the preservation and health of the breed.

    They believe that breed color families should rarely be mixed.

    Color Enthusiasts 

    Believe that if a color is naturally occurring in the breed, it should be allowed to be bred and allowed in the show ring and that it’s in some ways discriminatory to exclude quality Danes that come in colors outside of the 7 outlined in the written standard.

    They believe there is no problem with mixing color families.

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    How do Great Dane Color Families Work?

    Without getting into the nitty gritty of genetics, it’s important to understand that as a general rule there are only a few ‘color’ families:

    Breeders typically breed within these families:

    1. Harlequin / Merle / Black / Mantle
    2. Fawn / Brindle / Black
    3. Blue

    The color purist breeders will mix and match within those families. They may pair a fawn and a brindle together or a harlequin with a mantle, for example. Their goal is to create colors that meet the breed standard.

    Screen Shot 2022 12 28 at 10.42.48 AM

    The color enthusiast breeders will mix them up, choosing to pair a harlequin and a brindle or a blue and a merle, for example.

    If you are a geek about this stuff, we encourage you to visit the fun coat colors group on Facebook!

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    An all-white double-merle Great Dane

    Is Breeding Off-Standard Colors Ethical?

    Now of course, we can look at this and think ‘well, what’s wrong anyways with pairing a harlequin and a brindle together? Brindlequin dogs are so neat looking!’  

    The issue is actually more complicated than many think.

    Many color enthusiast breeders will intentionally pair already off-color-standard dogs with other off-color-standard dogs.

    For example, fawnequin + lilac merle or chocolate + mantle-marked brindle to see what neat colors come from the pairings.

    The result? Tons and tons of ‘new’ and interesting markings on litters of Dane puppies. Great Danes are very special this way.

    In many cases, the off-standard litters being born are a FUN surprise for the breeder and those interested in the puppies! It’s incredible for social media AND for sales. That right there is a major red flag.

    This practice of creating off-standard colors is naturally rewarding because of this. The problem? These breeders are being rewarded for focusing on color first, not temperament, structure, and health.

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    A sickly merlequin Great Dane puppy

    Off-Standard Colors are Fun

    Here is the problem, though.

    Off-standard colors are excluded from being shown.

    Say what you want about show dogs, but dog shows are one of the only ways a breeder can verify that the dogs they are breeding are structurally sound.

    What we are seeing as a result? 

    100’s of Great Dane breeders so focused on creating fun designer colors that they cannot see the forest for the trees.

    Great Dane health & structure are suffering.

    Yeah, we’re going to go there. 

    When a breeder is choosing dogs to breed, they should be first focused on structure and health.

    Ethically, they must choose full health testing of both parents (hips, heart, eyes AND thyroid) and seek feedback from peers (in dog shows and otherwise) to make sure that they are breeding dogs that have excellent genetics.

    Unfortunately, many (of course, there are exceptions) ‘color breeders’ are so focused on color that they disregard the original form, shape and function of the Great Dane….often to the detriment of their health.

    What ends up happening is the creation of 1000’s of Great Danes in ‘unique’ colors, made to sell easily to unsuspecting buyers, that come from breeders who don’t have the best interest of the puppies in mind.

    Basically put, that’s a lot of Great Danes that are contributing to an increasingly alarming problem of poor overall health, temperaments and structure.

    Extremely droopy eyes, flat feet, roached backs, bloat, wobblers, cancer, cardiac problems, cataracts, entropion, seizures and thyroid problems plague Great Danes. While one individual puppy may be ok, over time these incremental changes are problematic. 

    Because off-standard colors cannot be shown, there are no checks and balances for breeders that focus their breeding program on color. 

    Basically put? It’s a free-for-all. 

    Some breeds have addressed a similar problem by creating a scoring sheet that can be used to evaluate if a single dog is breeding quality, without the breeder needing to get into the show circuit. 

    That’s not happening in Danes that I am aware.

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    Some Off-Standard Dane Colors are Especially Bad

    All or mostly white Great Danes and Merlequin Great Danes (looks like harlequin but with merle patches, no black ones) are most often the result of unethical spot-spot pairings.

    Also known as Double Merle Great Danes, white Danes may be deaf or blind and many have internal health problems (autoimmune disorders, seizures, allergies, etc.) and poor temperaments.

    These dogs are 100% preventable through thoughtful breeding practices & genetic color testing.

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    Double Merle Breeding in Great Danes

    What’s so interesting about double merle Great Dane dogs is that it’s a problem for both color pure and color enthusiast breeders!

    Color Purist breeders 

    These breeders may pair Harlequin + Harlequin to create ‘show marked’ Harlequin dogs.

    They often cite that there aren’t enough quality black or mantle studs to use, so this is the only way. They know that double-merle puppies are a consequence of that, and some will even euthanize those puppies before 5 weeks of age. The GDCA condones this practice.

    At least these puppies DO tend more often to come from well-structured, well-tempered proven dogs, and some breeders who do this see to it that the DM dogs from these litters live long, healthy lives in carefully selected homes.

    Advances in genetic screening and our understanding of the Merle gene have made this practice safer, too.

    Color Enthusiast breeders 

    These breeders often end up with double-merle puppies because they weren’t aware it could happen (for example, if they pair a fawnequin with a lilac merle, which sounds cool but is a really, really bad idea), or because they didn’t color test and know that a solid-color dog in their program was a cryptic merle (a black Dane, for example, that recessively carries the merle gene), or they did it intentionally because they know they could get the super popular color puppies (which may also be deaf or blind).

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    Great Dane Coat Color and Health 

    Double Merle puppies will nearly always have some kind of health issue, mild to extremely serious.

    There is some information bouncing around that modifying the black spots to fawn on a Great Dane (Fawnequin) for example may impact internal health, though we’d like to find more information on this.

    If that is truly the case, there are many off-standard colors that would be extremely unethical to pursue off-standard colors for this reason alone. More research is needed.

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    Off-Standard Colors in Well-Bred Litters

    Ethical breeders who work within the outlined standard color families can and do occasionally get a surprise off-standard color puppy.

    Some are mis-marked, heavily marked, or the result of recessive genes.

    Unlike dogs from color-focused backyard breeders, however, the random off-standard pup in a litter will never be sold for breeding, will have come from well-structured dogs, will not be sold at a higher price as ‘rare’, and will be supported for life.

    We will continue to repeat this:

    Ethical breeders focus first on structure, genetic health and temperament. If the focus is first on creating unique colors, there is a problem.

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    Off-Standard Colors and ‘Racism’

    Some backyard breeders, when faced with those that don’t support intentional off-color breeding, will say that those people are being ‘racist’.

    We cannot think of a more tone-deaf statement, to be honest. Comparing human skin and human experiences involving racism and discrimination to dogs’ coat colors is extremely misguided and ignorant.

    Screen Shot 2020 12 29 at 9.54.58 PM

    The Honest Truth About Intentional Designer Color Breeding

    Take a look at this sickly designer color puppy above while you hear us out.

    There are two kinds of Great Dane breeders.

    BREEDER #1

    • Cares very much about the puppies they produce. Profit is not the goal, health is.
    • Temperament, longevity, and structure matter to the point where they are willing to NOT breed a dog that doesn’t meet their standards.
    • They support buyers for life.
    • They spend a lot of money on health testing, genetic screening, training and socialization.
    • They invest hours of blood sweat and tears into their dogs and care very much about every puppy they produce.

    Breeder #1 is breeding dogs to better the breed and to ensure that those who share their lives with that puppy are presented with an animal that has every opportunity to be a happy, healthy, friendly and robust family pet, in ANY color.

    BREEDER #2

    • Cares mostly about profits and fun.
    • They may be friendly and even caring towards owners and the puppies they produce, but they are willing to cut corners.
    • They may only partially health test the parents (choosing to do only hip scans, for example, so they can tell you that they are ‘reputable and health test’)
    • They are often blind to the structural problems they are passing on.
    • Droopy eyes, roached backs and a mild problem with aggression towards dogs or people may be common.
    • They don’t always support buyers for life

    Breeder # 2 has learned that there is no reason to fully health test the parents or ask for honest feedback on their structural health when they can paint the puppies  ‘Lilac Merle Euro‘ and sell them at a premium, basically.

    Now be honest…knowing that this is how it often works for ALL Great Dane breeders (standard colors or not), which breeder would you rather support? 

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    Off-Standard Colors can Muck Things Up

    We are already having a huge and growing problem in Great Danes when it comes to longevity, health and temperament.

    So when breeders intentionally pump dogs into the system that don’t meet the breed standard for structure and come in a range of neat colors, things get messy.

    This is especially true if breeders are selling off-standard color dogs to other breeders.

    This practice is introducing a massive range of new color genetics (dominant and recessive) as well as perpetuating common structural & health problems. 

    Over time, this could mean that it becomes more and more difficult for breeders to find and use quality dogs for breeding.

    Many say that additional colors are necessary to diversify the gene pool, and we don’t necessarily disagree. It honestly seems pretty silly to exclude a healthy, well built dog from a breeding program or dog show just because it’s not a ‘standard’ color!

    However, those additional colors need to be ethically produced. As it stands right now? Most really aren’t.

    Dare we say this?

    Off-standard color breeding is largely a practice of backyard breeders. This is a sad and unfortunate truth that needs to be addressed if more off-standard colors are to become a reality in the Great Dane color code. 

    8 3

    Adding New Colors to the Great Dane Breed Standard

    Merle was added to the GDCA color code in 2019 when it was recognized that this color was a common and natural by-product of ethical pairings, served to help diversify the gene pool, was being bred with outstanding health and structure and wasn’t resulting in notable health problems.

    Mantle was added in 1999, for the same reasons.

    Chances are, additional colors can be added to the color code and eventually shown as well, especially if those colors are a natural byproduct of thoughtful dam/sire pairings.

    Unfortunately, backyard breeders are not going to be able to make that happen. As long as their focus is on color and not health, the breed club has no legitimate interest in listening.

    The currently accepted colors are there for a reason, while the off-standard colors are not…for a reason. Those reasons need to be addressed.

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    How Do We Fix This?

    How do we encourage ALL color-focused breeders to choose ethics, and to focus on the breed as a whole before focusing on color-driven profits? Here is what we would love to see:

    • No more cutting corners. FULL health testing of both Dam & Sire, no matter what. Heart, Hips, Eyes & Thyroid, no excuses.
    • Genetic screening and pedigree study for color genes and common genetic issues (bloat, Von Willebrand’s and IMGD, for example).
    • Submit dogs for structural evaluation. While off-standard pups cannot be shown, there is no reason to hide them from the world. The Great Dane Conformation Clinic on Facebook is a great resource.
    • Be willing to wash dogs from the breeding program that don’t pass health testing or meet basic standards. There is no excuse in the world for breeding a dog that has flat feet, a roached back, narrow hips and a genetic history of aggression, bloat or wobblers!
    • Stop selling ‘designer’ color puppies to other backyard breeders. Be choosy!
    • Stop marketing off-standard color puppies as ‘unique’, ‘designer’ or ‘rare’. It’s misleading to buyers who want a healthy, robust family pet and believe they are receiving a ‘premium’ dog.
    • Only breed parents that have excellent temperaments.
    • Title the dogs! Train them and get CGC or trick or dock diving titles. Prove them in some way. Stop hiding them from the world. A lilac merle or brindlequin Dane with exemplary structure and temperament kicking butt in obedience and sports would go a LONG way towards encouraging positivity towards off-standard color breeding!
    • Stop hoarding dogs; if there are too many for each to have a rich family life, enrichment and loving retirement, it’s not ethical.
    • Support puppies and buyers for life. Keep those babies out of uneducated or abusive homes and out of rescue, please.
    • Don’t breed spot-to-spot, especially if the result is that the sick pups will be euthanized or dumped into rescue or into abusive and dog hoarding situations.

    We’d like to think that none of this is all that difficult, but we understand that for many profits and fun will always trump ethics.

    Our hope is that buyers see this, know the difference and choose which breeders to support accordingly. 

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    See it yet?

    It’s not the color of the puppy itself that’s the problem.

    It’s the unethical corner-cutting profit-driven breeding practices that led to it. 

    We understand that off-standard color puppies are fun and unique.

    It’s so simple. Meet the basic standards of ethics. Prove us wrong!
    Show us that breeding for off-standard colors can be done right ethically

    Want a Great Dane in a Designer Color?

    Don’t feel guilty about that. Danes come in some really unique colors!

    This fawnequin (from a breeder on our ‘bad breeders list’) is a classic example of backyard breeding, and exactly what you want to avoid, however. The pursuit of this color meant that aspects of health and structure were grossly disregarded.

    Look for and verify that the breeder you are interested in is FULLY health testing both parents (hips, heart, eyes, thyroid), is supporting buyers for LIFE no matter what, is fully socializing the puppies and keeping them until at least 8 weeks of age, and that the pedigree is free of heart problems, wobblers, bloat, dysplasia and aggression.

    If they cannot answer those questions or share that information, look elsewhere. We can paint puppies any color we want to, but it the color won’t matter if they are sick. 

    If you have an off-standard pup, get out there and love the CRUD out of it! All Great Danes deserve the best home ever. We love all Great Danes, no matter what color they come in!

    We will never fault a Dane owner for the dog they have and love; after all, these beautiful creatures become loved family members no matter what they look like!

    Our hard stop is on the bad breeding practices though. That needs to be brought to light…so where we are. Please share this post. Dig deep! Re-evaluate what you think you know about off-standard colors and hold breeders to a higher standard!

  • Great Dane Bloat Myth Busting

    Great Dane Bloat Myth Busting

    It is time to BUST some myths about bloat and Great Danes!

    This post is going to shake up EVERYTHING you think you know about bloat, GDV, torsion, and gastropexy, and we cannot wait to share it with you.

    How do you prevent bloat? Are some dogs at higher risk of bloat than others? Does Gastropexy prevent bloat? Do I need to rest my Great Dane before and after meals? 

    Let’s get started!

    Great Dane Health
    Myth #1 – Raised Feeders Prevent Bloat

    Many people rely on raised or elevated bowls with the belief that it will help prevent bloat. The theory is that the dog will swallow less air and will be more comfortable eating.

    HOLES IN THIS MYTH: In 1994 a study was done of over 1900 dogs with no prior history of bloat. They were surprised to learn that the dogs with raised bowls were 110% more likely to experience bloat than other dogs in the study that had bowls on the floor. Ruh-Roh.

    Want to see more information on this study? Read it HERE. 

    Sure, Hello Danes. Whatever. Correlation does NOT mean causation, right?

    We agree, which is why we believe more studies are needed here, but also that this information may be alarming AND valuable regardless!

    When we look at dogs eating from raised bowls, we see dogs having to hold their neck straight outward and then bend their head at the jaw to eat.

    This makes us question if it’s really ‘more comfortable’ than a dog that drops their head to the ground (and thus has a straight line from the teeth up into the esophagus). Dogs put their noses to the ground all of the time to graze, sniff and explore. It may look uncomfortable to us humans, but it’s not an unnatural position for a dog of any size to be in.

    It’s important to keep in mind that there are MANY other risk factors associated with bloat, and this specific correlation requires more study to be truly conclusive. 

    It is fascinating, however, that this advice continues to hang on despite information that raised bowls may increase risk and that as of yet, it’s never been proven (only theorized) that raised feeders do anything to reduce risk or prevent bloat at all.

    Our advice? Do what works for your family, but especially if your Dane has other major bloat risk factors (genetics, anxiety or aggression, poor gut health and IBS), you might consider putting those bowls on the floor.
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    Myth #2 – Resting Before/After Meals Prevents Bloat

    This is probably the most common bloat prevention recommendation for Great Danes. This advice is so common that it’s to the point where many Dane owners experience significant anxiety if their dog eats anything and then jumps off the bed or goes for a walk, run or zoomies in the yard.

    MYTH BUSTING: As of this writing (May, 2021) studies indicate that there is actually very little, if any correlation between exercise and bloat!

    Dogs can and do bloat at ANY time, and rest or exercise may have very little to do with it.

    As a matter of fact, a majority of dogs that experience bloat do so while resting or in the middle of the night on an empty stomach. 

    There is actually no conclusive scientific evidence that resting before or after meals can prevent bloat; and when we did the research for this article we observed something really interesting. Nearly every source we found (that supported rest before/after meals as a ‘preventative’) was a blogger, and none had a study to cite supporting this claim.

    Let me repeat that. As of this writing, we cannot find a SINGLE scientific source that shows resting before/after meals can actually prevent bloat, or that exercise CAUSES bloat. Only opinions that have been passed along. 

    Test this theory! Ask dog owners that have experienced bloat what was happening when their dog bloated. Many times it was late at night, and quite often 2-3 hours AFTER a large meal.

    The heartbreaking part of this is that bloat is happening to dogs whose owners have lovingly and diligently rested them before and after meals for YEARS, leaving the owners heartbroken and frustrated. Because this advice has become so common, many Dane owners are stressed if their dog eats and then moves around, and that’s not fair.

    This is a big yikes in the Dane community, in my opinion.

    Here we go with the whole correlation/causation thing again, too: for those did bloat while exercising, it may have just been a matter of chance and timing…or the dog was actually experiencing anxiety, stress, or other medical problems (example, a trip to the dog park or a long walk in the heat) and/or had significant other contributing factors.

    As above, there are MANY, many other risk factors for bloat. Rest your dog if you feel it makes a difference, but don’t give yourself anxiety over your dog walking around the yard with a few treats on board.

    Dogs that spend too much time in a crate can become bored, weak and overweight, which isn’t good either. So find a healthy balance between eating, rest and living life. 

    zach lucero jYBtuN6aKg0 unsplash scaled

    Myth #3 – Stomach Tacking/Gastropexy Prevents Bloat

    Stomach tacking/Gastropexy is considered a ‘prophylactic’ procedure, in other words, a preventative. It involves suturing the stomach to the abdominal wall, and is usually done during spay/neuter surgery. Read our blog on the gastropexy HERE). 

    MYTH BUSTING – Gastropexy does NOT prevent bloat. We cannot say this loud enough.

    If you have chosen Gastropexy for your dog, your dog is STILL susceptible to risk factors and may still bloat, however, bloat will be less likely to kill them.

    Gastropexy helps prevent torsion, the dangerous part of a bloat event

    Torsion is what happens, during bloat, when the bloated stomach turns over on itself. Torsion is extremely serious, painful and deadly.

    So really, this myth is a matter of semantics. Language. Gastropexy doesn’t really prevent bloat, but it can help prevent torsion…and that has merit.

    Preventing torsion could mean that you have more time to get to the veterinarian before the bloat becomes more deadly than it already is. It is believed (though not formally studied, that we’ve seen) that Gastropexied dogs have better overall outcomes when bloat does happen.

    We highly recommend this procedure, but only if you are working with a well-researched veterinarian that has a lot of experience doing it. Full pre-op screenings are a must.

    For dogs that do bloat and successfully receive medical attention, gastropexy is highly recommended moving forward.

    At Hello Danes, we believe in Gastropexy and consider it a safe, minimally invasive, and extremely beneficial option for all Great Danes when done by an experienced veterinarian.

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    Myth #4 – Only Large or Overweight Dogs Bloat

    Many people with lean, fit, healthy dogs believe that their Great Dane is much less likely to suffer from bloat, heart conditions or otherwise.

    While we 100% believe in keeping Danes lean, fit and active, read on:

    MYTHBUSTING: All dogs are susceptible to bloat. As a matter of fact, some studies indicate that lean dogs have a slightly higher  risk!

    It is believed that unlike lean and fit dogs, overweight dogs have fat in the abdomen that protects and cushions the stomach.

    Basically put, don’t believe for a moment that your dog is safe from bloat just because your dog is fit, active and lean. One of the most famous dock-diving Great Danes succumbed to bloat recently, which goes to show that any dog is at risk.

    The benefits of keeping Great Danes lean and fit FAR outweigh anything else.

    Overweight dogs have shorter lifespans, are less likely to be able to handle anesthesia (a key aspect of treating bloat, cancer and otherwise), are more likely to suffer from arthritis, diabetes and thyroid disease, and have more problems with their heart. No thanks!

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    Myth #5 – Food Causes Bloat & Large Scheduled Meals Prevent It

    Many Dane owners maintain a rigid feeding schedule so that they can also make sure to rest their Dane before and after the meal. This practice comes from a fear that food itself is the enemy for Great Danes.

    A lot of people who support this practice also believe that grazing is exceptionally dangerous, and will say that it’s better to minimize eating and meals by only allowing food intake once or twice each day.

    MYTH BUSTED: Studies show that large meals (heavy, full stomachs) actually INCREASE the risk that a dog may bloat!

    Yikes!

    Why is bloat seen more in dogs fed single large meals? The large meal puts a lot of strain on the hepatogastric ligament, which holds the stomach in place. Over time, chronic stretching may cause this ligament to become elongated and weak; a common feature in Danes that succumbed to bloat.

    Not only that, but dogs that are restricted to one large meal/day may feel anxious about food and scarf the meal down as fast as possible, which are also major risk factors for bloat.

    We believe in moderation here. Smaller, more frequent meals offered in a low stress environment and a puzzle feeder (to slow down eating) are MUCH healthier.

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    Myth #6 – Gulping Water Causes Bloat

    Gulping water causes blurping (burps that bring up water), a belly ache, and maybe a parasite from drinking dirty pond water…but the great news is that studies show almost no correlation between water intake and bloat!

    Many Dane owners have anxiety when their Great Dane plays in the water, swims, snorkels, runs in the sprinklers or splashes around.

    These activities are fun and enriching to dogs and like all fun and enriching things, carry some risk.

    Aspiration pneumonia is a common example.

    However, dogs that are acclimated to water and swimming (those that have safe water skills, in other words) are not at increased risk of bloat just because they are playing in the water.

    As above, find a balance between stressing out when your Dane eats and moves, and letting your Dane be a dog! 

    15

    Myth #6 – They Don’t Know What Causes Bloat

    Many Dane owners feel hopeless and frustrated when they hear this. The good news is that studies are ONGOING!

    MYTH BUSTING:  While there is no scientifically conclusive information on what actually ‘triggers’ a bloat event, there is a lot of science into why some dogs succumb to it and others don’t.

    Bloat has three primary risk factors: GENETICS, TEMPERAMENT and GUT HEALTH.

    Not all Great Danes have the same risk factors. Some have MUCH more risk of developing bloat than others do!

    Bloat is a disease of large, deep-chested breeds and is most commonly seen in dogs that have a genetic link (parent, sibling, etc. who also suffered from it), who are anxious, fearful or aggressive, and/or who have poor gut health (IBS, excess gas, etc.). 

    All dogs are at risk, unfortunately. Use our guide below to assess the risk factors for your individual dog, and minimize the risks associated with bloat!

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    BLOAT RISK FACTORS

    We may update this list when additional research comes available. At this time, the following items are known to contribute to bloat risk; they are on the list because they are backed by at least some scientific inquiry and research (not just tall tales). Research is ONGOING!

    Give your dog one point for each item. How many points did your dog get? Remember, ALL DOGS are at risk, and some dogs with high risk never bloat!

    • Your dog is a Great Dane
    • Your dog is over the age of 2 (risk increases with age)
    • Your dog is over the age of 5
    • Your dog has experienced bloat before
    • Your dog has a 1st-degree relative that has experienced bloat (Parent, Sibling, etc.)
    • Your dog has had or also had any other relative that experienced bloat (Grandparent, Aunt, Uncle, etc.)
    • Your dog has an unknown or unstudied pedigree
    • Your dog was tested and carries 1-3 of the known risk alleles (see more HERE) 
    • Your dog has a timid, fearful, or shy temperament
    • Your dog is under-socialized
    • Your dog is poorly trained and generally “difficult”
    • Your dog is anxious (may present as severe separation anxiety, reactivity and nervousness)
    • Your dog is often aggressive, snippy, or reactive
    • Your dog has a strong tendency to resource guard (food, toys, bones, beds, etc.)
    • Your dog suffers from IBS /Irritable Bowel Syndrome
    • Your dog has chronic poor overall gut health (allergies, loose stools, diarrhea that you struggle to resolve)
    • Your dog has heart/cardiac problems (which can cause a poorer prognosis if bloat happens)
    • Your dog is eating a dry food that is heavy in peas, lentils, potatoes, or legumes (which can damage the heart and make a bloat prognosis worse)
    • Your dog eats meals quickly and scarfs food down
    • Your dog is anxious while eating or worries about food
    • You use a raised feeder/bowls that are elevated more than 6-8″
    • You serve a single large meal each day, in lieu of smaller more frequent ones
    • Your dog is easily stressed by boarding, training, socializing, etc.
    • Your dog has experienced a stressful event (including rehoming, boarding, moving, a party, kids, etc.)
    • You often use harsh/punitive punishment based training (hitting, intimidation, kicking, scolding, etc.)
    • You only feed a dry kibble diet (no fresh or wet food toppers or treats)
    • Your dog is on a low-fiber diet
    • Your dog has an exceptionally deep and narrow chest compared to others
    • You feed a dry food from Victor, Fromm, Diamond, or 4Health that has fat in the first 4 ingredients
    • Your Great Dane is from a breeder that is not invested heavily in genetics, structure, health, temperament and longevity
    22

    LEGITIMATE WAYS TO DECREASE BLOAT RISK

    • Support only ethical breeders that understand genetics and are focused on health, temperament and longevity. Ask your breeder for a full history of the pedigree and verify no presence of bloat within at least 2 generations.
    • Choose Gastropexy
    • Work with a qualified behaviorist if your Dane is aggressive, anxious, fearful or timid. A veterinary behaviorist may be the best option for dogs with severe temperament problems
    • Socialize your puppy
    • Choose modern, positive science-based training methods (positive or balanced, not alpha/dominance or old school physical punishment training)
    • Address gut health. We recommend adding a probiotic supplement and changing food to something that is backed by a lot of science and research. Excess gas is NOT NORMAL!
    • Choose a properly formulated raw diet OR choose a kibble that is nutrient dense and add up to 10% of the total diet as fresh foods and raw toppers
    • Add fiber to the diet (flaxseed or pumpkin are a good choice!)
    • Feed smaller more frequent meals, not large single meals of dry kibble
    • Encourage slow, stress-free eating (slow feeder bowls are great)
    • Check the food label. Meat meal should be one of the top ingredients, as meat meal reduces bloat risk.
    • Avoid foods that have a lot of peas, potatoes, lentils, garbanzo beans, or beans as these increase the risk of deadly DCM (heart damage) which can complicate bloat surgery and recovery.
    • Reduce anxiety and stress where possible
    • Know the signs of bloat and share that information with pet sitters, family and friends!
    • Don’t breed Great Danes unless you are willing to fully study genetics, structure, temperament and health (including full health testing, structural evaluation and genetic screening to better the breed as a whole and reduce genetic risk)
    9 1

    READ THE STUDIES

    We’re not going to tell you all of this and then run off and not provide the studies we read!

    Definitely check this out, and remember. ALL GREAT DANES ARE AT RISK, no matter where they are from, and what you do. 

    https://www.vetgen.com/canine-gdv.html
    https://www.vin.com/apputil/content/defaultadv1.aspx?pId=11165&id=3848657
    https://www.akcchf.org/assets/files/GreatDaneUpdate_Summer2017.pdf?fbclid=IwAR32QS2uXeLF1YqX3PRF_C0Vy0nuXYpKlXOpiXnXmcLUD0ZFD075I0TItNY
    12 1

    As much as we want to prevent bloat, it’s not 100% possible. Even a dog with little to no known risk factors can suffer from bloat and torsion!

    We prefer to look at bloat prevention in terms of minimizing risk. When you think of it that way and address the small things, positive changes can happen for the Dane community as a whole.

    Get out there and enjoy your dog!!!!

    The information contained in this post is for informational purposes only. We do our best to present the most up-to-date research, however it is up to the reader to make decisions regarding the health and well-being of their dog. We make no claims here to prevent or treat bloat or any other condition related to Great Danes. Find a veterinarian with GIANT breed experience, and chat with them. 

    Some of the products we list on our website contain affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase, we may receive a small commission for referring you. We only recommend products that we truly believe in. This commission does not affect the price of the product and is used to fund our content and expenses related to operating this website. 

  • Things That Are More Aversive Than an E-Collar

    Things That Are More Aversive Than an E-Collar

    I am a 99% positive dog trainer and I believe that a properly used E-Collar is an appropriate, helpful and humane training aid for many dogs and owners. Positive trainers, hear me out!

    E-Collars are greatly misunderstood! People believe they are a tool of corrections, punishment, and force…and we are ready to change that narrative.

    If you are unsure what the difference is between an E-Collar and a Shock collar, click here to read our article about it. You may be surprised to learn that there is a HUGE difference!

    The truth is that I’ve spent YEARS cringing at any kind of electronic collar, judging people for using them, and paying close attention to the unfortunate behavioral problems that resulted from their use.

    Aggression, fear, confusion, and aloof behavior seemed common. It bothered me. Like many positive-leaning dog trainers, I was alarmed, frustrated, and sad.

    Shock collars are a dated tool that relies on fear, pain, punishment, and force. This blog is NOT pro-shock collar. We are, however, pro-responsibly used E-collar. 

    E-Collars are a modern invisible leash, and when used properly are less aversive and less harmful than:

    -A long leash
    -A no-pull or front-clip harness
    -A head collar or Gentle Leader/Halti
    -Running off and being lost, hurt, or killed
    -Needless restrictions to freedom and choice done in the name of ‘positive only’ learning

    What I had not yet realized at the time was that there was a growing movement of ethical, positive dog trainers who were using electronic collars in a different more dog-focused way. I was also unaware that an E-Collar is a very different device than a shock collar!

    These trainers were actively speaking out against shock collars and inhumane training methods that relied on sharp static corrections and punishment.

    I noticed that their E-Collar-trained dogs were happy, engaged, confident, and enjoyed freedoms that my dogs could only dream of. They were not aggressive, edgy, anxious, or aloof as the dogs I had seen trained with shock collars and there was no shouting, chasing, frustration, or constant management.

    To put this simply, a properly used E-Collar is no more aversive than a collar, leash, or crate. Read on!

    14 jpg

    E-Collar Training for Dogs

    Proper E-Collar training relies heavily on the dog having a POSITIVE association with the sensation. Modern E-Collars have 100 levels to choose from (like the Mini-Educator) so the communication for each dog is completely custom.

    E-collars produce muscle stimulation, not a static shock. Most dogs enthusiastically work at stimulation levels that most humans cannot feel when they try it on themselves.

    A lot of people say the sensation, when it’s turned up enough for them to feel it, is similar to marching ants or a small tingle.

    The dog is taught to associate that feeling with treats and praise. When this is done correctly they become extremely engaged with and excited about the sensation and the training!

    (It’s fun to put a proper E-Collar into the hands of somebody who is expecting to be shocked! They are always nervous because they do not yet understand and are anticipating being very uncomfortable. Once they feel it, their minds quickly change and they are laughing, curious, and asking questions!) 

    E-Collar Conditioning

    When the dog has been conditioned to their E-Collar as above, they learn that the stimulation means to turn and come back. redirect and try something different. It becomes a game for them where they are in control of the stimulation, including turning it down and off by enthusiastically returning (recall).

    This is a very different approach than ‘shock and startle’, and allows for the handler to communicate clearly with the dog from a larger distance than with any of the other similar options listed above.

    Think of an E-Collar like a walkie-talkie for your dog!

    MORE AVERSIVE THAN AN E-COLLAR

    Now that we understand the basic concept behind how E-Collars feel to the dog are meant to be used, we can look at training tools and methods that are aversive:

    • Vibration. Many people rely on the ‘vibration’ button because they don’t want to shock their dog. That’s fair, shock collars SUCK. The truth however is that most dogs find a vibration to be MUCH more aversive than the stim (stimulation) from an E-Collar. Subtle signs of stress include lip licking, scratching, head shaking, cowering, hunched posture, stiffness, shaking off, pinned ears, and avoidance.
    • Shock Collars. Shock collars deliver a sharp static correction that is painful and has been scientifically proven to increase stress, fear, and anxiety. We do NOT recommend shock collars, especially cheap ones from Amazon or pet stores. Shock collar training is a completely different practice and product than E-Collars and E-Collar training.
    • Head Collars. These provide constant pressure/stimulation to the head and may cause an over-excited or frightful dog to whip their head around and potentially damage their spine. Head collars also require proper conditioning. Many dogs find them extremely aversive to wear and will pant, paw, become frantic, or shut down without proper slow early introductions and desensitization. They work because they are extremely aversive.
    • No-Pull Harnesses. These harnesses rely on obstructing the way that the dog’s front limbs and shoulders move. They put constant pressure on the chest and impede natural movement, especially if the dog pulls. They are often seen as a ‘positive’ tool, despite this. We do not support the use of no-pull harnesses, nor the notion that they are ‘gentle’ and ‘positive’.
    • Electric Invisible Fences. Most (not all) invisible fences rely on automated shock corrections. Shock-based invisible fences are known to increase reactivity and barrier frustration in the yard. The shock correction is typically very harsh and many dogs yelp or cower when they experience it. This includes the HALO GPS fence collar, which unlike an E-Collar, does not teach your dog enthusiastic recall – only avoidance. 
    • Long Leashes. Long leashes are necessary before a dog has a reliable recall and in areas where being off-leash is illegal or unsafe. Ultimately, however, off-leash freedom (and the gentle stim from an E-Collar that can become the cue to return from a distance) is MUCH less aversive than always being on a long leash, or having the long leash used as a ‘fishing lure’ to drag the dog back. Dogs on a long leash cannot move the same way as a dog off-leash, and freedom from physical restrictions is wonderful for a dog’s mental and physical health and condition.
    • Collars and Harnesses. Dogs that pull or lunge against any kind of harness or collar may feel pressure and tension on their neck, chest, armpits, stomach, and throat. Leash reactivity is often directly related to the built-in physical restrictions and tension of the leash and collar, a sensation that makes many dogs anxious and uncomfortable. On the flip side, a dog that is trained with gentle stim to recall or redirect is more likely able to enjoy off-leash freedom and outdoor exploration, activities which will always be more enriching and less stressful to most dogs than a restrictive walk on pavement.
    • Squirt Bottle. Squirt bottles, like shock collars, teach dogs to fear the circumstances and may even teach them to fear water and being sprayed. Many dog owners rely on the squirt bottle as a threat and the dog never really learns right from wrong, which is aversive in and of itself. Unlike E-Collars, no positive association is ever made to being squirted in the face.
    • Errorless Learning/Behavior Management. Management is an important and necessary part of dog training! However, when management is used as a supposed ‘positive’ alternative to communication (and yes, appropriate corrections), it may be inhumane and unfair. Read on…

    ENDLESS RESTRICTIONS

    The common response from trainers who wish to avoid any kind of stimulus that could be seen as aversive (including the E-Collar on a low level, used on a dog taught to associate the tingle with treats) will be to advocate for strict behavior management and a positive only approach.

    Behavior management includes leashes, escape-proof harnesses, martingale collars, withholding access, gates and crates which can all be used to make sure that the dog cannot make a mistake (such as slipping a collar or jumping a fence).

    These are all tools and techniques that can be aversive in and of themselves. 

    Management is an important part of proper training, however, many overlook how aversive many management techniques can be for the dog.

    Dogs need us to communicate with them, and that includes establishing boundaries and giving them the ‘full picture’ of the world they live in. Dogs that live restricted lives with no freedom to make mistakes can become confused and often become needlessly shut down, frantic, anxious, frustrated or reactive.

    Isolating a dog from experiences in the name of the long haul ‘positive only/errorless learning’ approach may actually be inhumane and will almost definitely be more aversive to a dog than communication from an E-Collar paired with positive reinforcement.

    Endless restrictions to freedom and experiences suck.

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    FIGARO, THE FENCE JUMPER

    We have a friendly, confident, positively trained (clicker + treats) Great Dane with great recall and polite manners. He’s young, full of life, athletic and awesome. I BELIEVE in positive training!

    One day he learned that he could get over the fence, into the neighbor’s yard to play with their terrier. The neighbor was NOT amused.

    To address this, Figaro spent the next three weeks on a long leash in the yard while I taught him new fence boundaries and prevented the behavior. I used a clicker and taught him to redirect away from the fence and to ignore the neighbor’s dog. IT WORKED!

    But the entire time my sweet Dane baby was heartbroken. He HATED being on a leash in the yard. He hunched his head, walked slowly, and wouldn’t stay outside with me for long. For most of the three weeks, he moped around the house. This was despite the fact that I did everything I could to make it positive and fun, and despite the fact that anywhere else in the world he was perfectly happy to be on a leash.

    If all you’ve ever known was freedom to explore the backyard, how crappy would it be to suddenly have no freedom at all?

    The long-haul positive approach rooted in strict management and behavior prevention ended up being aversive to him, and he’s not alone! 

    I now know that a highly positive approach paired with conditioning to the E-Collar (so he could be off-leash while learning and have the stim available to redirect him if needed) would have been less aversive, faster, more humane, and more appropriate for him.

    Do not buy into the marketing that tells you a long leash and strict management are better for a dog than an E-Collar! Modern technology and education is changing this narrative.

    OH, BUT WHAT ABOUT THE STUDIES?

    For every study out there claiming that shock collars and E-Collars are bad, there is another study claiming that they are perfectly acceptable.

    These studies are often flawed. No distinction is made between a shock collar and the E-Collar (they often lump the two devices into the same, which is a massive fault in the origins of the study), and no practice is made of making sure the Electric collar trained dogs in the study had been properly and positively conditioned to the collar in the first place.

    Most studies that indicate elevated stress levels associated with electronic collars were done on dogs where the ‘Easy button’ method was used, and training only took place over days or at best, weeks. 

    In other words, the training method being ‘studied’ often involved asking a dog for a recall, offering very little positive reinforcement, requiring a lot of dogs in a short period of time and using the stim or shock to ‘punish’ them for not coming when called.

    Of course that is going to elevate stress levels, especially in the context of the unusual environment of a study! The stim is not meant to be used as a punishment, and shock collars will never be an appropriate training tool. So comparing those studies to the way modern, positive trainers are using E-Collars isn’t fair.

    The correct approach to E-Collar training a recall involves creating a positive association including happy, engaged body language to the stim (R+), developing a foundation in recall using treats and praise (R+), using a long leash to prevent errors, and then teaching the dog that stim + come = come back (R+, again).

    Many E-Collar trainers then strengthen the recall by also teaching the dog that the feeling of the stim (marching ants) becomes weaker the closer the dog gets to the handler (making recall even MORE rewarding through a very gentle version of ‘negative reinforcement’ where the dog is completely in control of the stim, not the handler).

    Is the stimulation annoying? At some levels, yes, it can be. But as above, so is a long leash. The difference here is that the E-Collar provides freedom and choice, while the long leash does not.

    THINK OF IT LIKE A CLICKER, TREATS OR BRAIN GAMES.

    E-collars do not have to be aversive, painful, or punishing. It is a huge mistake to use them that way.

    We think there is space for E-Collars in the positive trainer’s toolbox, especially with the knowledge that the stim is less aversive to most dogs than many traditional techniques and tools. Many owners and trainers report that after just a few weeks of E-Collar conditioning, their dogs are happier, calmer, easier to live with, and much, much more confident! 

    E-Collars can lead to more freedom; natural movement, unobstructed by collars and harnesses, and well-trained dogs that understand how to play the stim AND the treat game.

    Communication, not corrections

  • Backyard Breeder Bingo

    Backyard Breeder Bingo

    All of the Pandemic Puppies flooding into rescue right now have me thinking, once again, about backyard breeders.

    So for fun, I hopped into CANVA and made a backyard breeder bingo card that you can share to your IG story or on your blog! Just right click and steal it from us, we will DEFINITELY allow you to take and share this one! (Though, we do ask that you keep the board as-is and don’t crop or photoshop it). You can tag us on IG @hellodanes

    I will clarify each square below! Note, this card is in reference to backyard breeders who INTENTIONALLY breed dogs for profit. Not truly accidental or rescue litters. Please also see our note below the post about how ALL dogs do deserve a home, and how you can make sure that happens without supporting unethical breeding practices!

    Why is backyard breeding such a problem? Because unethical breeding practices are almost solely responsible for heartbreak, sick dogs, aggression, health problems and the sheer volume of dogs that are overwhelming our Great Dane rescues right now.

    BACKYARD BREEDER BINGO HELLODANES

    BUY NOW BUTTON/ONLINE STORE – This is always shady business for two reasons. Number one, a lot of ‘scam’ breeders with no puppies at all use this as a money grab and two, no ethical breeder is going to let you just checkout/purchase a puppy without getting to know you first. Never, EVER purchase a puppy by using a ‘buy now’ or online checkout option, even if you think the breeder is ‘reputable’.

    NO LIFETIME BREEDER SUPPORT – Ethical breeders care VERY much about the lives they produce. They never want to see a single one of their dogs in rescue or sick because of a congenital or genetic problem. Ethical breeders will support you if something pops up from training issues to health problems, and will be there for you even if you are simply unable to care for the dog you purchased. Backyard breeders? They just want your money and to be done with it. Ask every Dane sitting in rescue right now if their breeder cared where they ended up in life…

    UKC OR CKC/CONTINENTAL KENNEL CLUB REGISTRATIONS – These registries (not to be confused with the CANADIAN Kennel Club/CKC, which is reputable) are littered with litters from backyard breeders. Any breeder that cannot obtain a real AKC or Canadian registration will go to the UKC or the Continental Club. Reasons that your breeder may not have AKC or Canadian registrations? They may not have had breeding rights for the parents they were breeding, the pedigree is mixed or the lineage is unknown. Either way you shake it, it’s unlikely those dogs should have been bred.

    181871212 3886418328132490 6756477721590278252 n

    DOESN’T ADHERE TO GDCA ETHICS BASICS – We are consistently astounded how many ‘friendly’ and ‘caring’ breeders miss the boat on the ethics of breeding put forth by the Great Dane Club of America (and Canada). If you are going to breed Great Danes, shouldn’t the parent club be your resource and guide? Read their ethics and recommendations here, and make sure your breeder is following these basic guidelines when developing a breeding program: https://gdca.org/breeders/code-of-ethics

    ‘DESIGNER’ COLORS IS THE MAIN SELLING POINT – Off-standard colors really shouldn’t be a problem, however many backyard breeders are so focused on creating popular and unique colors that they disregard temperament and sound structure. Color should NEVER be the main selling point of a breeding program. Health, temperament and structure first, always. After that? If the color fits, wear it.

    SPOT-TO-SPOT BREEDING/DOUBLE MERLE – Breeding two dogs together that each carry the merle gene (you know, the gene responsible for those pretty merle coats and MANY ‘designer’ colors), each puppy has a 1-in-4 chance of receiving both copies of that gene. Sounds ok, right? It’s not. These dogs are called ‘double merle’ and many of them have significant health problems, blindness and/or deafness. Read more about double-merle dogs here: https://www.hellodanes.com/double-merle-great-danes/

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    BREEDING RIGHTS FOR ANY BUYER/FULL AKC – Ethical breeders will be very cautious about selling a puppy to somebody that wants to use it for breeding. While it seems like you should be able to do whatever you want with a purchased dog, we have to remember that dogs aren’t couches. They are living beings, and breeding them is a massive responsibility. Ethical breeders protect their lineage and understand the difference between a ‘pet’ Dane and one that has the correct structure and genetics to be bred. Want to breed? Find an ethical breeder and ask them to mentor you. Prove that you care about developing a sound breeding program; this will greatly increase your chances of getting access to purchase a quality foundation dog for your program.

    PARENTS HAVE BAD STRUCTURE, FEAR OR AGGRESSION – A lot of breeders who sourced their foundation dogs from breeders that didn’t care if they bred the dog or not (see above) are also the same types that are breeding dogs with structural and temperament faults. Flat feet, roached backs, bad angulation, extremely red droopy eyes, fear and aggression…these are NOT things that should be passed onto a litter of puppies. Breeding a dog like this ignorant and gross. Meet the parents! They should be excellent examples of the breed standard with beautiful movement and structure and wonderful personalities. Ethical breeders are very proud of the parents they are breeding. Want to learn more about structure? Read the written standard here: https://gdca.org/wp-content/uploads/TheGreatDane/An-Illustrated-Standard-and-Guide-for-the-Evaluation-of-the-Great-Dane-1.pdf

    NO CONTRACT REQUIRED – If a breeder doesn’t require a contract, it’s a sign that they do NOT care who you are as the buyer, do NOT care to support the dog for life, don’t offer any kind of legitimate health guarantee, don’t care if you breed or not, don’t care if you surrender to a rescue. THEY DON’T CARE. Contracts outlining responsibilities, health and return requirements are a must. Verbal contracts likely don’t hold up in court, either so be suspicious when a breeder doesn’t want to put anything in writing.

    MINIMAL EARLY SOCIALIZATION PROGRAM – Keeping dogs in a barn or on a tile floor with a short play session on grass and some exposure to kids or farm animals is NOT thorough socialization! Ethical breeders focus a lot of effort into creating confident puppies by exposing them to a huge variety of sounds, textures and experiences. They have puppies exploring obstacles (tires, water, ramps, gym mats, etc.), facing their frustrations and learning about household sounds (vacuums, for example), nail maintenance (clippers and dremel), crating, potty training, kids, handling, exams, collar/leash and more. Puppy Culture, ENS and Avidog are examples of appropriate early socialization programs.

    8

    SHIPS ASAP/WILL SHIP ANYWHERE – Dogs. Are. Not. Couches. If a breeder is willing to ship live animals that deserve love, affection, training and a good home to anybody sight unseen, TREAD CAUTIOUSLY. Some ethical breeders and rescues will ship dogs, but they require extensive checks into references and a video call or local visit to see your home and where the dog will be living. They will often use a network or a transportation nanny to move through the system with the dog and ensure it arrives comfortably and in perfect health!

    PUPPIES ARE TIMID OR SCARED – If you go to meet the puppies, or see photos and videos and notice they are timid or scared, there is a HUGE problem. The breeder may be breeding timid/fearful parents, not socializing the puppies, abusing the puppies or the puppies have health issues. Any way you shake this, it’s bad news. Puppies should be energetic, bouncy, curious and playful. Not afraid. Contrary to popular belief, being ‘timid’ is NOT a ‘Great Dane Thing’.

    PUPPIES HAVE A SPECIFIC % OF ‘EURO’ – This one is a can of worms folks. Our ‘Euro’ vs. ‘American’ Dane post is coming soon, but until then? Tread cautiously with any breeder who uses ‘Euro’ as a primary selling point, and especially if they give you a specific ‘%’ such as ‘38.5%’. European and American Great Danes have nearly identical written standards and look the same. There is a big difference between a European Great Dane and a ‘Euro’ Dane. A puppy marketed as a  ‘Euro’ Dane is a hypertype Dane and many suffer from health problems (obesity, structural issues, heart problems, bone growth disorders, etc. Entropion, allergies and bad feet are common).

    IT’S YOUR DOG, DO WHAT YOU WANT  – This is a breeder that is breeding for profit and has no desire to support you as the buyer or ensure that the puppy is never surrendered to rescue, bred unethically or abandoned. They want to wash their hands of you and the dog and they package that dirty practice up in a neat phrase that sounds like they are giving you more ‘freedom’ as a dog owner. Yikes.

    7

    PUPPIES SENT HOME BEFORE 8 WEEKS – This is money grab central, folks. Breeders get tired of the puppies and from 6-8 weeks they eat a TON of $$ food, they are noisy, they are annoying, the mama dog is over it. A breeder that sends a puppy home prior to 8 weeks is setting that dog up to fail, however. They need corrections from their mama and littermates to learn bite control and appropriate play, as well as dog interactions, confidence and more. Read more about why taking dogs home before 8 weeks is both unethical and a huge problem here. There are very, very few reasons for a breeder to do this, and 99% of them are not a good reason. https://www.hellodanes.com/why-great-dane-puppies-should-stay-with-the-litter-until-8-weeks/

    UNDERAGE PARENTS (UNDER 2) – While some sources allow for dogs to be bred prior to 18-24 months, in Great Danes we consider this practice to be extremely unethical. Growth plates are not even fully closed yet on a Dane that isn’t 2: giant breed dogs don’t mature until at least then. Additionally, you cannot fully register some health testing results with www.ofa.org until a dog is 2 years old. All dogs should be fully tested (and passed) before being bred, so jumping the line with an underage stud (and especially with an underage dam) is bad practice.

    ‘CHAMPION’ BLOODLINES BUT NO AKC, FCI, of CKC/CANADIAN KENNEL CLUB CH., GCH. or BIS TITLES – ANYBODY can put together a dog show and award ribbons and ‘champion’ titles. The only legitimate champion lineage comes from the major, reputable registries that work with the breeds established parent club: AKC, Canadian Kennel Club and FCI. The pedigree should be well-documented. Say what you want about ‘show dogs’, but dogs that have been awarded real CH. titles are excellent examples of the breed. Dogs that have been awarded fake or low quality CH. titles? Seems pretty shady to us…

    NO APPLICATION REQUIRED – Without an application, how is a breeder to know if you are a legitimate, caring, committed home or not? Remember, abusive people can be friendly when you meet them in person. Good breeders want information about your home, your experience with Giant breed dogs, children in the house, your desire to work with your dog or breed it, and whether or not you actually plan to seek vet care, professional training and otherwise. They are more interested in choosing the right home for each puppy than in going down the list and selling puppies as fast as possible.

    VERY FEW PHOTOS OF ADULT DOGS – A good breeder is going to be proud of the parents. Be wary of any breeder where the focus is primarily on puppies (profit generator) instead of on the adults, the lineage, structure and health. There should be several clear photos of the adult dogs being bred, ideally where you can see their structure and possibly even seeing them interacting with people, dogs and even kids. If a breeder is hiding photos of the adults or isn’t sharing them as much as (if not more so) than the puppies, be curious about WHY. The adults may be being abused, are sick or are poor examples of the breed.

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    PARTIAL OR NO OFA HEALTH TESTING – OFA Health testing is so much more than a vet check, and it’s extremely important. Each dog being bred should have hip/elbow x-rays to test for abnormalities (including dysplasia), an echocardiogram to test for genetic and congenital heart problems, a thyroid test and an eye exam with a board certified veterinary ophthalmologist. Make NO mistake, a breeder that skips these tests or only does one of them so they can ‘claim’ to be ‘OFA health tested’ is likely being SHADY. Proper health testing costs money and may require that the breeder wait before breeding or remove a dog from their program. They tend to skim over testing or avoid it altogether because of this. The results should be published to www.ofa.org for you to verify.

    PUPPIES HAVE FLAT FEET/WORMS/KNUCKLING – Yeah, this is backyard breeder territory. Experienced, thoughtful Dane breeders know how to deal with (and avoid) flat feet and knuckling. Flat feet may also be genetic (yikes!). There is no excuse in the world for a puppy to have disease, sores or WORMS. Gross. However, these things are fairly common with some of the worst breeders…even the ones that appear ‘popular’ or ‘friendly’.

    NO TITLES ON ANY DOGS – did you know there are 100’s of titles a dog can obtain that have nothing to do with dog shows? A breeder that is active with their dogs, or that has owners who are active with them, will have titles in the lineage that include everything from obedience (CGC) to dock diving, scent work and more. While many breeders don’t obtain titles (and it’s not automatically a ‘bad’ thing), it’s one standard we do like to see considered more often. Look for titles in the lineage and from other puppy buyers, proving that the Danes being made are enthusiastic, well-tempered and trainable. A litter of puppies built with the correct temperament to obtain Canine Good Citizen titles is a litter of puppies that will make EXCELLENT family pets!

    BREEDING FOR COLOR BEFORE HEALTH – This is a huge can of worms. Great Danes come in piles of beautiful, interesting and unique colors. Only 7 are colors that are considered ‘standard’ and can be shown. There are questionable ethics and a lot of argument regarding both sides of this fence; some believe off-standard colors are bad while others believe they are necessary, with opinions everywhere in between. Our position is that off-standard colors are ok IF the breeder is focused first on health, structure, temperament, lineage, and the breed as a whole. If the breeding program is focused first on color, odds are you’re going to have a lot of dogs with interesting coat colors that have poor structure, instability and worse…shortened life spans. These are all genetics that they may pass on to future generations, too. It’s not fair to paint a dog ‘lilac fawnequin’ if obtaining that also means that it will be born with a heart defect, allergies and cow hocks. Color is fun, but don’t believe for a second that color is the only reason to choose which parents to breed.

    SELLING IN A FACEBOOK GROUP – Yup, we’re going to go there with this one. Some breeders make themselves appear ‘popular’ and even ‘reputable’ because they are so NOISY trying to sell puppies on social media. They post available puppies and litters in Facebook groups, often multiple times with very slow sales, indicating largely that they bred their dogs before knowing if there was even any interest in them. With RARE exception, ethical breeders often have waitlists and will not need to resort to desperately trying to ‘home’ an 8+ week old puppy on social media. This is actually a RED flag and not a sign that a breeder is popular simply because you keep seeing their name pop up in your local community.

    11

    EVERY DOG DESERVES A HOME

    Nobody is saying that a dog from a backyard breeder is any less deserving of love or a home.

    But before you focus only on the cute puppies, take a look at the 100’s of dogs sitting in rescue right now. Many of them are unadoptable, require insane amounts of funding for their veterinary needs, have significant issues with their training and socialization and may have permanent medical problems (including missing limbs, megaesophagus, being blind or deaf or needing heart medications for life).

    ALL of these dogs deserve homes. The problem is, every time we support a backyard breeder, we directly fund the production of the same animals that end up with expensive health problems, abused, neglected, abandoned and unwanted.  There are so many backyard breeders, and so many more about to breed again, because people keep buying dogs from them.

    Want to help? Want to save a dog? Volunteer, foster and adopt OR choose only ethical breeders so we can shut these bad breeders down once and for all.

    When they can’t sell the puppies, they will typically give them away or surrender them to rescue…at which point, the applications FLOOD in and the puppies all find homes. But the 4 year old dog in rescue that has resource guarding issues and permanent joint damage because of his congenital flat feet? That dog may never find a home…and it’s the backyard breeders we have to blame for that.

  • No, You Probably Shouldn’t Breed Your Dane.

    I am SO curious how we’ve gotten to this point.

    We have two extremes!

    On one side, we have people saying ‘adopt don’t shop’. They scream this from the rooftops as if all of the dogs in rescue are a good fit or even available to every person who wants a dog.

    On the other side, we have people who think that all it takes to be a breeder is to have a dog with AKC papers. Diligence, ethics, and care be damned.

    Then there are those of us in the middle.

    I believe that there is room for BOTH ethical breeders and rescue.

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    The Rescues are FULL!

    This right here is the #1 reason you should probably NOT breed your dog.

    The rescues are full of dogs from breeders who didn’t care where those dogs ended up.

    They weren’t diligent about health and temperament, and created puppies that ended up in rescue because of abuse, lack of education, aggression, allergies, wobblers, blindness, deafness, and separation anxiety.

    Do you want to contribute to that problem? 

    The rescues are not full of dogs from careful, thoughtful, ethical breeders that have proven their lines, fully tested their dogs, socialized the puppies, and supported buyers for life.

    Adopt don’t shop believes that all dogs should come from rescues.

    An unintended consequence of this is that it ALSO means that all dogs come from backyard breeders.

    It is that simple, and what is happening is that more and more we are seeing dogs with insane health and temperament problems that make them a poor fit for many families.

    Don’t be a backyard breeder. Empty the rescues by not contributing to the problem in the first place.

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    Ethical Breeding Matters

    There is absolutely nothing wrong with thoughtful, careful breeding and with choosing to purchase a dog from a reputable breeder.

    All breeders start somewhere. We just encourage you to start closer to the finish line!

    Keep in mind that one of the main tenants behind ethical breeding is lifetime support.

    If you aren’t willing to stand behind the puppies you create and their owners for life, stop now.

    See how many of these items you can check off. If you can’t for some reason, ask yourself if breeding your dog really is the best choice.

    Are we kind of snobby about this? Yup.

    Hint, you should be too! Being labelled as a ‘backyard breeder’ isn’t cute. 

    • The dog you want to breed is a purebred Great Dane with a known lineage.
    • You’ve studied and can verify that the lineage, and your dog is free of aggression, anxiety, IMGD, bloat, wobblers, seizures, entropion and Von Willebrand’s disease.
    • The breeder you got your dog from meets all of the requirements on this checklist AND supports you.
    • The dog you want to breed has full (not limited) registration/papers (AKC or Canadian Kennel Club only).
    • The dog you want to breed does not have flat feet, a roached back, a short neck, weak rear, cow hocks, steep croup, excessive jowls, incorrect front limbs or extremely droopy eyes.
    • The dog you want to breed has good angulation, especially in the front. (Unsure what this means? Study the written standard and join the following amazing and friendly structure groups on Facebook:
      The Apollo of Dogs – Great Dane Preservation Society
      Great Dane Conformation Clinic
      Great Dane Heads
    • The dog you want to breed is an outstanding example of a ‘gentle giant’. He or she should be courageous and friendly, not timid or aggressive. Having a Canine Good Citizen and/or AKC Temperament Test title is a huge bonus!
    • Your dog is at least 2 years old.
    • You are willing to pay for, at minimum the following health tests: veterinary check, Hip + Elbow x-rays, thyroid test, Echocardiogram, Eye Exam with a board certified opthamologist, genetics screening (color), genetics screening (other as needed).
    • You are willing to not breed your dog if those tests are not passed with flying colors.
    • You understand color genetics, including what causes Double Merle puppies and are focused first and health and temperament.
    • You have potential puppy buyers lined up before breeding and are willing to be extremely diligent in choosing owners.
    • You are willing to support your puppies for life, and that includes ensuring that they never end up abused, neglected or in rescue for any reason.
    • You are willing to keep the puppies for a minimum of 8 weeks, and employ a dedicated socialization program (Puppy Culture is a good example).
    • You will only sell the puppies on a limited contract, especially until your breeding program is well established and you know how to choose buyers that are interested in your lines and ethical breeding.
    • You are willing to find a suitable mate that meets all of the above requirements.

    We support rescues AND thoughtful, diligent breeders.

    We believe that educating people about the difference between backyard and ethical breeders can pave the way to clearing the rescues much faster than ‘adopt don’t shop’ ever can, and will promote health and stable temperaments in the breed that we love.

    We have to turn this ship around, folks. Too many Danes are being bred with severe health problems and questionable temperaments.

  • EZ Educator ET-900 E-Collar Review for Great Dane Owners

    EZ Educator ET-900 E-Collar Review for Great Dane Owners

    Today we are providing an EZ 900 Educator E-Collar review for Great Dane owners (or for any dog lover!) This is our honest, unsponsored review of the Easy Educator E-Collar model 900, AKA the ‘EZ EDUCATOR’ series from E-Collar technologies.

    As Great Dane lovers, it’s important to us that owners are choosing the most humane tools and training methods for their dogs.

    Our training relies heavily on positive reinforcement, but we also believe that dogs appreciate it when they know what their boundaries are.

    EZ Educator ET-900 E-Collar Review

    We believe in educated ownership and don’t support use of any kind of inexpensive electric shock collar as a corrective ‘easy button’. We do stand behind properly used E-Collars though, with the belief that humane, effective, and positive off-leash educator training involves conditioning the dog to the stimulation and teaching the dog to understand that it means GOOD things, not punishment.

    The stimulation from a quality remote dog training collar will be blunt and feel like a small tingle or muscle twitch, not a sharp static shock.

    Fun fact: A properly used modern remote collar is less aversive than a long leash, head harness, no-pull harness, or squirt bottle.

    We believe in this training method because off-leash freedom = a beautiful life for you and your family pet.

    Not only that but momentary stimulation is an incredibly gentle replacement for physical restraint. If your dog could safely be off-leash, and all they have to do is be responsive to mild stimulation levels only when needed, then why wouldn’t you consider it?

    (If you need more information on the important difference between a SHOCK (sharp static correction meant to scare/startle) collar and an E-Collar (gentle muscle stimulation meant to work as a communication), read our blog post here).

    EZ Educator ET-900 E-Collar Review

    EZ EDUCATOR COLLAR INITIAL IMPRESSIONS

    The Easy Educator dog collar ships quickly and is packaged in a beautiful box that has a small footprint (less waste!).

    Remote collars can often feel like a ‘harsh’ or ‘utilitarian’ type of tool, but this packaging offers a sense of positivity and aesthetics that speak to confident, happy family dogs (not scared dogs that are afraid of the remote or being “shocked into submission“). 

    We are looking at the Easy Educator TWO dog system for this review, however the 900 series Educator collars come in a one, two, three or four dog system. 

    With multi-dog systems you can control each dog independently from the same remote.  

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    ET-900 Inside the Box

    Inside the Educator remote dog trainer box is:

    • The manual
    • Receiver (1, 2, 3 or 4 depending on what system you choose)
    • One waterproof ergonomic transmitter (AKA the remote)
    • One Biothane collar strap for each receiver, all in a different color so each dog has their own device
    • A micro USB charger for the remote & a cable with a splitter to charge the receiver(s)
    • A lanyard
    • Large and small contact points for each receiver (customize for each dog)
    • A tool to change the contact points

    The included biothane collars are rugged, washable, and waterproof. Biothane is the perfect material for E-Collars, as many E-Collar-trained dogs enjoy adventures outdoors that involve dirt, mud, and water!

    The collars are definitely long enough to fit any Great Dane and can be cut down in length if needed. We highly recommend upgrading the straps to bungee straps, which offer more flexibility and a better fit.

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    Is the Educator EZ 900 quality?

    The receivers that the dog wears feel well-made and are lightweight! Educator brand collars use the most significant technological advancement in remote dog training collars available; we like to compare them to cell phones. Educator collars are the latest iPhone.

    A lot of dedication and engineering went into the tapping sensation of the EZ 900, making this a gentle, effective trainer for your pet dog. The technology used in Educator collars is similar to that of a medical-grade TENS device, which uses electrical currents to stimulate the muscle.

    In training, this sensation is often referred to as ‘pressure’ or ‘stimulation’.

    One thing we love is that EACH collar receiver can be completely customized to the dog that will be wearing it! The advanced remote is a complete system that allows you to program different settings for each dog you are training.

    This means you’ll be able to apply different stimulation modes including momentary stimulation, continuous stimulation, momentary boosted stimulation, beep or vibrate at sufficient value for each dog.

    The EASY 900 is a medium-range trainer with a 1/2 mile range with instant stimulation options so that you can communicate with your dog from afar.



    Good remote collar training will require precise control; we like that there are 100 levels to choose from so you can fine-tune the blunt stimulation that your dog will feel (and respond to).

    The contact points are made of quality metal and can be replaced with other sizes and metals, depending on your dog. You can easily change contact points with the included tool, and other options are available including wings (for long-haired dogs) and comfort pads (for short-haired dogs).

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    How do I program my Easy Educator EZ 900?

    We recommend programming your primary button for each dog to continuous stimulation and then learning how to use that button for a single instant stimulation ‘tap’, continuous mode or dynamic (continuous with increasing pressure).

    Secondary buttons for each dog can be programmed to tone, beep, or vibrate.

    We like to use the single tapping sensation (tap tap tap) on a very low level as a reminder to a dog to follow, look or pay attention.

    Continuous stimulation at low levels (or higher in distracting environments) can be used for off-leash recall from a distance.

    Dynamic continuous pressure (that increases) works well as a warning to a dog that they must stop what they are doing and redirect to something else.

    Tone can also be used as a recall cue, similar to a whistle. For most dogs, including deaf ones, the vibration mode is aversive compared to low-level stimulation modes. We recommend saving vibration for when your dog is doing something dangerous such as running into a road or rudely chasing another dog.

    Is EZ Educator waterproof?

    Both the receivers AND the remote are completely waterproof, and we have heard that the remote will float!

    Your dog can safely swim in the Educator remote collar without fear of being ‘zapped’ by the cheap faulty electronics seen from other brands. E-Collar Technologies stands behind this and will support you with this purchase forever.

    The company also states that the Easy Educator is impact-proof. If you drop it, you don’t have to worry about it not working, malfunctioning and running too ‘hot’, and hurting your dog.

    This is a BIG reason we stand behind quality E-Collars and NEVER inexpensive ‘dog training shock devices’ found on Amazon or in pet stores. 

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    Easy Educator Features

    There is a maximum stimulation setting of 100. Compare this to other collars on the market that may have just 5-10 levels!

    The top of the receiver has a connection spot (a red dot) that connects the receiver and collar electronically, and LED lights that blink green when a connection has been made between the training collar and the remote.

    The light on the receiver can also be turned on as a night tracking light so that you can see your off-leash dog in the dark! 

    The waterproof ergonomic transmitter remote included with the EZ Educator dog training collar is yellow and has a large digital display.

    Just like the collar receiver, the remote is lightweight, impact-proof (and waterproof).

    EZ 900 Rotation View

    The bar shaped transmitter remote has a 1/2 mile range. Unless you are working with hunting, sport training, and tracking, few dog owners need more off-leash roaming space than that.

    (If you are looking for more range, consider the Educator 400 series with 3/4 mile range here).

    Although the receiver is small (providing stealth operation, if you are concerned about uneducated naysayers), it provides plenty of stimulation for most dogs, even 150lb Great Danes!

    The blunt stimulation is a gentle sensation that doesn’t result in yelping or excessive normal head jerking often seen from other training collars. We prefer this brand for the very clean stimulation and tapping sensation employed during use. No sharp static shocks!

    EZ 900 Easy Educator copy

    Adjustable Mode, Tone, and Stimulation Levels

    On the top is the dial which allows you to adjust the stimulation level up and down. The dial requires some effort to move, which will prevent you from accidentally dialing the stim up too high.

    Precise control of stimulation levels is incredibly important.

    Educator E-Collars have lock and set features that can be programmed to ‘lock’ at a chosen stimulation level so that you cannot accidentally turn it up too high (and startle your dog).

    Each dog is assigned their own buttons and you can control each dog completely independently. The buttons are recessed behind a rubber casing, which makes them waterproof and also safe from accidental ‘butt dialing’.

    The ET-900 series training collar offers an adjustable tone and adjustable vibrate mode as well. Programming allows you to adjust how these buttons (which are ergonomically placed) will be used for each dog.

    There is also a function where the stim can begin at a low level (so as not to scare your dog) and have it automatically increase to a set level.

    The included momentary boost feature can also be customized to each dog, so you maintain precise control.

    Don’t forget the night tracking light, which is fantastic for sport training and dogs that are often off-leash in the dark.

    We believe the EZ EASY EDUCATOR 900 series is the most high-tech E-Collar available, and perfect for dog owners who like customizations, options, and geeky tech stuff! 

    Shop the Easy Educator 900 HERE (choose your model for # of dogs), and use code ECOLLARMAGIC for $10 off. 

    Is the educator collar a shock collar?

    The defining differences between stim collars and shock collars can be confusing, especially because there is so much misinformation out there about how remote dog training collars are used.

    Stim collars such as the ones offered by E Collar Technologies use a significant technological advancement that changes traditional ‘shock’ into a much more gentle stimulation sensation. This sensation is so gentle that most humans cannot feel it themselves!

    With this new more modern form of dog off-leash training utilizing a complete system from remote trainer to positive reinforcement, the desired response is positive, not negative.

    In other words, your dog, with the right training and conditioning, will respond with enthusiasm and excitement!

    This stimulation feels like a tapping sensation, not a sharp static shock, and can be used for recall training, boundary training, and more.

    Other training collars do not offer the same unique features and rely instead on punishing, scaring, and hurting your dog. An Educator is NOT a shock collar!

    Even a smart, stubborn dog can learn how to recall reliably in different environments, and will come running back to you ready for more!

    How do you use the EZ Educator ez 900?

    We’ve said this before and we’ll say it again. E-Collar training is a lifestyle and requires that you change your mindset about how a tool like this will work on your dog.

    Easy button shock collar training with cheap devices from Amazon is NOT a method that we support for several reasons.

    Dogs trained with shock collars applied as a means to startle and punish can easily become aloof, nervous, anxious, over-excited, frustrated, or even aggressive.

    Cheap shock collars are unreliable and more likely to malfunction and hurt your dog. They provide a sharp static shock that causes many dogs to (understandably) show signs of stress and begin to act on it.

    Your dog should never be afraid of your remote, their collar receiver, or of what happens when they are wearing it.

    Correct stimulation collar training requires a change in how you communicate but it will PAY OFF!

    Not only will you want to learn the ins and outs of your E-Collar remote and how it works, but it’s also important to put some time into actually working with your dog so that your dog knows that stimulation is a good thing and knows how to respond to it. 

    We recommend upgrading the included biothane collar strap to one with a bungee for a better and more comfortable fit for your dog.

    E-Collars are an easy operation communication tool, like giving a cell phone to your dog. If you want off-leash freedom and confident, curious, and happy family dogs, this method is for you.

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    Why should I use a remote training collar?

    We always like to mention that we use a lot of positive reinforcement while training our own dogs. Proper remote collar training uses a lot of positive reinforcement.

    Off-leash recall, boundary training, and redirection are just some of the reasons we recommend remote collar training for all Great Danes. Unlike a harness, collar or leash, this is one tool that doesn’t rely on physical restraint and cannot harm your dog!

    Are dog correction collars cruel?

    Absolutely not! There are many things people do to dogs that are actually cruel. This is not one of them.

    Training collars from high-quality companies such as Educator Technologies use different technology and blunt stimulation modes that work in a different way compared to inexpensive and painful shock collars.

    Well-trained dogs that can be safely off-leash are free of physical restraint, which can cause frustration and even anxiety. Not only that, but nothing compares to the enrichment a dog receives off-leash! Advanced remote collar training is life-changing for dogs and owners.

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    Aggressive Dog Aversion Training

    Some people purchase a remote dog training collar because they are at the end of their rope with a dog that is aggressive or reactive.

    There is a huge difference between aggressive dog aversion training (which involves a lot of unfair punishment), and correct training with a modern remote collar.

    The last thing you want to do is turn up the dial to maximum stimulation and hope it grabs the attention of your aggressive dog! This kind of training can make things much worse.

    Instead, it is important to give your dog skills to build on: basic obedience such as touch, sit, heel, down, leave it, and come make a great foundation. After that, you can start building confidence and indifference to the world with positive counter-conditioning and desensitization.

    From there, you can use your remote dog training collar at low levels to communicate and redirect your dog back to you as needed. These unique features, paired with positive reinforcement, set the Educator ez 900 apart from traditional shock collars.

    Are there e-collars that don’t shock?

    Shock and muscle stimulation are two very different things.

    One is a sharp static zap, the other feels like a tap, tickle, or tiny ants crawling around. We prefer the Educator training collar models over traditional inexpensive shock because they offer a gentle tapping sensation.

    The stimulation sensation from a high-quality remote dog training collar is non-aversive and can be used for communication. It is an effective trainer that replaces the pressure from a leash, harness, or collar!

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    How do you train a dog with an E-Collar?

    We recommend starting out by finding the lowest level where your dog has the desired response. Most dogs are enthusiastic and responsive between levels 3 and 10, and this is a sufficient value for getting started. The tapping sensation employed by this collar is incredibly gentle and feels more like a brief pulse than a shock.

    Keep in mind that you will not likely feel the sensation if you try it yourself until you dial it up to higher stimulation levels well beyond what you need for training your dog.

    Pair this gentle tapping sensation with treats, and gradually increase the criteria as you teach your dog what the sensation means. The collar becomes a cell phone for your dog that replaces leash pressure, not a punishment tool!

    Boosted stimulation mode can be used when your dog is distracted, and maximum stimulation is available in case of an emergency (for example, your dog is trying to run into traffic, yikes!).

    We have training resources available, and we also highly recommend watching Larry Krohn on Youtube for the best and most positive remote training advice!

    Your dog training collar offers precision control and has a boost feature for when you and your dog are in higher distraction areas (kind of like turning up the volume on your cell phone), momentary stimulation, and continuous stimulation.

    What is the difference between the Mini Educator and the Educator E Collar?

    The Mini-Educator dog training collar uses the same advanced technology as the Easy 900, in a more compact and elegant package.

    The Mini-Educator remote is round instead of bar-shaped, and it offers only slightly fewer features.

    We think the Mini-Educator (or the Micro Mini-Educator with the waterproof miniature collar receiver for small dogs) is a solid choice for dog owners who are new to off-leash remote training.

    The Mini-Educator still offers a tracking light, quick emergency stimulation options, transmitter beeper mode, and the brief pulse sensation that educator 1/2 mile collars are known for, in a smaller package.

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    A mini-Educator remote training collar. Slightly different than the ET-900 but still a fantastic option.

    Which educator collar is best for my dog?

    If you value simplicity, elegance, and easy operation, choose the Mini-Educator (one dog training collar) or the Educator (just like the Mini-Educator, but for two dogs). If you have a dog under 15lbs, choose the Micro Mini-Educator.

    If you like features, extra customization options, or have more than 2 dogs, the Easy 900 Educator is the way to go.

  • Dumpster Fire Danes Tuesday – April 20th, 2020

    Dumpster Fire Danes Tuesday – April 20th, 2020

    Dumpster Fire Danes Tuesday is our weekly humorous look at the Dane world.

    Backyard breeders, questionable trainers and those who promote bad, scary, outdated or downright dangerous advice may end up on this page and we will not hesitate to ROAST them.

    Sorry, not sorry! Read on, friends..

    PANCAKES FOR FEET

    Behold, the Danecake. This dog is the newest Dam for a popular local ‘breeder’.

    She’s currently expecting, courtesy of a planned breeding to an underage stud with very little health testing.

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    But it’s ok because she’s Euro and has AKC papers, right? [Insert eyeroll here]

    The breeder verified a successful tie this week and is building her ‘waitlist’ for the puppies. In case you are interested, she swears she’s ‘a legitimate breeder and cares about her furbabies‘.

    Let’s be clear folks. There is absolutely nothing ethical or humane about breeding a dog with this kind of structure, let alone a giant breed dog that relies on strong feet and proper angles to move comfortably through life.

    It’s bad enough this sweet Dane has to live with pancake feet and sticks for legs, but why is she then purposefully being set up to pass her genetics onto puppies? With an underage, unproven stud no less!

    In case you didn’t catch our drift yet with this one, Great Dane feet are NOT supposed to look like pancakes glued onto sticks. These feet are not just a symptom of improper care, they are a sign of bad genetics and will likely cause this dog (and her offspring) a lot of pain in the future. 

    This breeder tops of list of ‘unethical, greedy backyard breeders’. 

    THAT’S AN EARFUL

    Did you know that Great Dane ears can be used as handles!? According to the breeder and trainer owner of www.servicedogproject.org, this is how you train service dogs.

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    We will link you to the video below, but what you’ll see is a clearly terrified Great Dane. She intimidates him, walks over and kicks him, then drags him out of the corner by his ears.

    This is all because he wouldn’t come to her (would you? Let’s be real here) and because she wanted him to stay in his place. She later justified the move saying that this dog required her to be extremely ‘severe’ and that he was ‘fine’ and it’s ‘not abuse’.

    I’m sorry, what?  It’s not cute to be stuck in the old ways of training, Susan!

    What’s even more interesting is that this trainer/breeder has a live feed (accessible via their website).

    Imagine this. If she was willing to show this on camera, what does she do behind the scenes that we cannot see?

    We are putting this one down in the Hello Danes hall of shame, because there is literally no excuse in the world for it.  Her cause is a good one, but her execution isn’t. She needs to do better.

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    See the original video here: https://www.facebook.com/ServiceDogMemes/posts/2779896102134495

    NO TRAINING NEEDED

    We were told this week by a local ‘woo woo’ trainer (who specializes in Danes) that all training classes, obedience skills and puppy socialization were fake, worthless and nothing more than a money grab.

    I’ll let you read that one again.

    To clarify, he actually stated that Dane puppies do NOT need training or socialization. He says that when they are 6-8 months old, he can give them all the obedience skills they will ever need in just 6 weeks of training, using nothing more than a slip lead and his brand of made up ‘psychology’.

    I’m writing this out and can’t even take it seriously. Is has to be a joke, right?

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    Nope, this guy is serious. See our direct, unedited screenshot of his post! So go ahead folks! Do NOT train or teach your puppy not to run out of doors. Definitely don’t teach it not to grab your food, chew on you or dig in the garden.

    Potty training? That must be a scam, too.

    Sit, down, wait, leave it, drop it, come, heel, stand, touch, come, and ‘lay here gently while I do your nails’ are just a ‘show’ put on by dogs to get treats and mean absolutely nothing. Don’t bother with them.

    Stay home. Socialization is not needed either. Don’t waste your time. All puppy classes are a money grab from selfish, materialistic dog trainers who just want your cash. Dane puppies are too dumb to learn anything until they are teenagers, and they are definitely all the same!

    So we asked him to clarify all of this, and to clarify if he really was implying that all Dane puppies should stay home and receive no training until 6+ months. Shocker, he had NO reply. He didn’t respond.

    A quick look at his Facebook page and we found him proudly showing off a 5 month old Dane he was training. I thought they had to be 6+ months, Steve…

    Made up dog psychology and slamming other dog trainers sells well, apparently. Don’t get sucked in folks!!

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    Side note…do you know who also really just wants your cash besides our scammy dog trainer friend? The owner of Mrs. Pancake feet 2021!

    The only reason to breed a dog like that is to make money. Backyard breeders and dog trainers with made up methods are the true selfish money grabbers. Don’t forget that.

    Please train your Great Danes. These woo woo dog trainers are ridiculous.

    HAVE A SUBMISSION?

    Have a submission for Dumpster Fire Danes Tuesday or the Breeder/Trainer hall of shame?

    Send us an email, hello@hellodanes.com

    Please note that we do NOT shame dogs for their condition, as it’s no fault of their own. Only bad owners, breeders and trainers.

    Please don’t send us photos of poorly bred dogs to shame. But if somebody thinks they are going to breed that dog? By all means, let the roasting begin…

    Coming next week: a breeder dumps 4 very sick puppies on rescue, ableism and more!