The Holiday season is upon us, and if you have a Great Dane or especially a puppy, you may be worried about how to dog proof your Christmas tree.
I don’t know about you, but the idea of Fido knocking over my beautiful decorations (and no doubt crushing some ornaments in the process) does NOT appeal to me!!! It is rather odd that we bring live trees into our home. They look beautiful to us, but to our dog, they smell interesting and look like something that needs to be peed on, chewed on, or destroyed.
So what is a Great Dane dog owner like yourself to do? Read this article, of course! We’re Dane owners, and we’ve totally been here. Let’s puppy-proof YOUR Christmas!
Our favorite training tips to keep the puppy away from the Christmas tree
Holiday decor alternatives that are safe for dogs
Management techniques to prevent your puppy from knocking the Christmas Tree over!
Get Creative with your Christmas Tree
Sometimes, you really just don’t want to deal with keeping your dog away from the Holiday tree! That is understandable.
Thankfully, some incredible people have come up with a few smart dog and kid-safe Christmas tree ideas that remove the problem while still being festive and fun!
For example, this 5ft tall flat LED Christmas Tree wall decoration take the place of a pine tree, and still looks very intentional and beautiful!
Check out this peel & stick Christmas Tree that can safely be used on almost any wall! Use this instead of a 3D Christmas tree if you are tight on space, don’t have time for the mess, or just need to not stress about your dog causing trouble.
Block the Christmas Tree
Sometimes, the best and easiest way to keep your dog away from the Christmas tree is to literally build a fence around it.
We’ve heard through the grapevine that Great Dane owners have tried everything from blocking it with vacuum cleaners (oooh, scary!) to surrounding it with chairs.
Enter the Amazon Basics Dog Pet System, which is 42″ tall (get the largest size!) and can be placed around your Christmas tree to keep your dog from well…making a mess.
This solution is especially great for dogs that like to knock things over, unwrap presents, and remove ornaments from the tree, too!
Train Your Dog to Leave the Christmas Tree Alone
Of course, all of the above solutions might take away from the Holiday magic of a beautiful tree and decorations in your home.
Enter…training. I know, I know – this one does take a little bit of effort but it’s well worth it!
There are two commands that help with keeping dogs away from the Christmas tree (and the Christmas cookies, and the presents…).
Those two commands are:
Leave it
Place
First, you are going to teach your Great Dane “LEAVE IT”, ideally before the tree comes into your home.
How to Teach “LEAVE-IT” to Great Danes
Hold 3-4 high-value treats in your hand. Allow your dog to sniff your hand but NOT to access the treats. As soon as your dog gets annoyed and moves its nose away from your hand, say “YES” and offer a treat (not from your hand, from a treat pouch).
Now, open your hand with the treats in it, and as soon as your dog lunges to grab them, snap your hand shut.
Wait, once again, for your dog to turn its head away from your hand, then mark with a “YES” and reward the behavior with a treat.
Repeat this process until your dog figures out (usually pretty quickly) that they are rewarded when the leave the treats in your hand (even when your hand is open)!
With practice, you can begin to say “LEAVE IT” and your dog will immediately look you, instead, because “Leave it” and ignoring high-value things results in treats and praise! Start teaching this behavior NOW so that you can apply it to the Christmas Tree.
Now that you can ask your dog to “LEAVE IT” when they approach the tree, you can also install a fail-proof system where your dog lays down on a mat and doesn’t get up until you tell them that they can.
I believe that all Great Danes should know the “PLACE” command. This way, your dog isn’t bugging the tree when you aren’t there to supervise.
Here is a great video from Kikopup on how to teach the “PLACE” or “BED” command.
How to Stop a Dog from Peeing on the Christmas Tree
Of course, you can do all of these things and still have problems with a dog that wants to pee on the Christmas tree.
These Christmas-themed dog Belly Bands come in Great Dane sizes, are washable, and can make marking less satisfying for your male dog, too.
How to Puppy Proof your Christmas Tree
Puppies are, of course, a whole other ballgame.
All of the above solutions will be helpful, with one major additional pro tip.
Allow your puppy to sniff and explore the tree, but make sure that having it in the home is no big deal and seems like just part of your routine! When you lead your young and impressionable puppy this way, they may learn that the tree is just another thing in the environment to ignore.
Puppies are, however, curious and tenacious creatures and in some ways, the Christmas tree may be unsafe for them! They can knock it over or take ornaments off the bottom that are dangerous for them.
You can always make it a point to only decorate the top half of your tree! This way, your puppy cannot grab any ornaments and run. Always supervise your puppy around the Christmas tree!
What other solutions have you found to dog-proof your Christmas tree?
Great Danes are giant breed dogs and if you’ve spent any time around them, you know they are both “Gentle Giant” and “Giant train-wreck!” If you know, you know. Here are 5 obedience commands every Great Dane should know.
Today’s post is part tongue-in-cheek, part reality, and 100% necessary if you live with a dog that is larger than life!
Great Dane Nicknames
Because living with a giant-breed dog has its moments, many people lovingly find themselves degrading their dog’s names into a series of nicknames.
Beau = Bozo
Moose – Mooove it
Duke – Doofus Face
Bella – Big Bella
Wren – Wreck it Wren
And so on. Us Dane owners mean well, we really do! So in order to avoid shouting a constant stream of frustrated expletives, it’s important that our big dogs are well-trained. Here are my 5 top obedience commands all Great Dane dogs should know.
Get Out of There!
Remember, Great Danes are NOSY. They want to know what is going on, why it’s happening, and how they can help.
They will slam open doors, stick half their body into the open fridge, jump into the car (hopeful for a ride somewhere), and be the first ones to greet your guests.
That’s why teaching a solid “OUT” or “WALK AWAY” command to your Great Dane is so important.
“OUT” or “WALK AWAY” means, “get the flip out of there“.
Keep in mind that some people use the term “OUT” to command a dog to drop something or stop in bite work sports, so if that’s you, choose a different word.
By using a calm voice, you can help keep Bozo or Jackass from getting into places they shouldn’t – like the neighbor’s trash cans.
How to teach this:
With your dog on a leash, encourage them to explore something interesting and novel such as a box or toy.
Then say “WALK AWAY” and apply a small amount of leash tension. As soon as your dog turns towards you, say YES and then toss a few treats on the ground. The treats should be behind you so that your dog has to literally walk away from the object to get to them.
Repeat this several times, then practice again another time or day. With time and practice, your Great Dane will understand the command and you’ll be able to give it when needed. For example, when Doofus Face is nosing into the bathroom while you are taking a shower.
Get Off of That!
Jumping is for trampoline parks, and coffee tables are for…coffee.
The “OFF” command literally means “get off”. That could mean anything from “Get off of our guests” and “stop jumping” to “get off of the back of the couch!” or “why are you on the table, again!”.
Many a jumping Great Dane has landed a human in the ER with bumps, bruises, and breaks. Not to mention the fact these so-called “majestic” creatures are nothing more than giant, clumsy cats.
They believe they fit on laps, love to give kisses, and are likely to have no hesitation about getting on top of crates, tables, or counters.
Great Danes do NOT KNOW HOW BIG THEY ARE.
I repeat. They have no clue and they don’t care, either.
You have to teach OFF. For Great Danes, this particular obedience command is more important than “SIT”. Prove me wrong! If you are ready to learn how to train a great dane not to jump, get on top of things, or hop the fence, read on.
How to teach this:
The trick with this particular command is that to truly practice it, your dog may have to be doing something we don’t want them doing. However, because we don’t want Big Bella practicing the behavior of sitting on top of the counters, it’s best to avoid that situation.
You can replicate it, however, with a towel.
Keep your dog on a leash. Put a towel on the ground and ask your dog to be on it (it’s helpful if your dog knows the “PLACE” command, which we cover below).
Say “OFF” and toss a treat away from the towel. If your dog won’t leave the towel, add a little leash pressure as a tactile communication.
Rinse and repeat. Several times, because dogs need repetition!
With time, you’ll be able to apply the “OFF” obedience command to several things (for example, jumping on a guest or the fence, which should be first practiced while your dog is on a leash. As soon as your dog goes to jump, say “OFF” and toss a treat away from the person or thing that they are jumping on).
Quit Pulling, We’re Not in a Sled Race!
Great Danes that pull, lunge, or display reactivity on a leash are actually pretty dangerous animals. I’m not talking dangerous like a shark, I’m talking dangerous like a FREIGHT TRAIN.
Yes, even sweet Moose, who wouldn’t hurt a fly, can take you for a ride if he sees a squirrel he wants!
Enter the following commands “HEEL”, “WITH ME”, “EASY”, “TOUCH”, and “LOOK”.
I know what you are saying here. “But Hello Danes people, that’s 5 commands for just this one thing!!!”
Hear me out. All of those sub-commands are how you will be able to safely and gently control a young, powerful, 140 lb intact male dog on a loose leash. But they have to be taught.
Heel – Walk neatly by my side
With Me – Walk nicely near me
Easy – Cool your jets
Touch – Touch your nose to my palm
Look – Make eye contact with me
How to teach this:
Because this is SUCH a broad topic, here are some of our favorite articles. There are many theories out there on how to control a Great Dane; we wouldn’t be Hello Danes if we didn’t share our favorites (and our gripes, too).
As before, good training uses a lot of treats. Here are some of our dog’s favorites:
Stay Put!
Sometimes we want our Great Danes to walk by our side. Occasionally, we may even welcome them throwing their entire bodies onto our laps or jumping up onto our shoulders for loving. Other times, we want to watch them run and zoomie all over the place.
That is, of course, until they become an elephant in an antique store.
To put this bluntly, there are times when you just need Wreck-it-Wren to stay in one place. Stop moving, stop knocking things over, stop stepping on toes, stop begging at the dinner table, stop rushing the door when guests enter the home…shall I go on?
Enter the “PLACE” command. Think of it like your dog’s charging device. Occasionally, they need to go back on their chargers to rest and stay out of your way.
How to Teach This
Use a mat, towel, elevated cot, or dog bed.
Throw a treat on the mat and say “PLACE”. Your dog will go onto the mat, at which point you will also praise your dog. Then say “FREE” and toss a treat off of the mat.
Gradually add time between your “PLACE” and “FREE” commands, and with practice, you’ll even be able to walk away. Start by taking one step back, then 5, then 10, and so on until you can go out of sight, open the front door, or eat a meal and have your dog stay on the mat until you say the magic word (FREE).
You don’t need to use corrections, pressure, or frustration to teach this! Just be patient and take baby steps.
Hey You, Get Back Here!
I don’t know about you, but I don’t want my giant freight train of a dog running amok off-leash and refusing to come when called.
Don’t believe me? Here is my list of ways that people sabotage their dog’s recall before they even get started. For fun, give yourself one point for every failure:
Allowing a dog off-leash that isn’t 100% reliable off-leash
Scolding a dog who ran off, when they finally do return
Use the long line and the treats to teach and reward recall (“COME”) several times in several different places. Your dog should be able to come back for a treat, praise, or fun game from 1 foot away or 20 feet away in several environments.
Now, if you did an OOOPS and scolded your dog, even once, for ignoring the word “COME”, I suggest changing that word to something that you can build a fresh positive association with. Examples include “HERE” or “JOIN ME”.
Coming back should ALWAYS be a party and a good time.
At that point, you can layer in an E-Collar, which uses gentle muscle stimulation to replace leash pressure (making it an exceptional backup device for off-leash exploration anywhere you go).
There’s something uniquely special about Great Danes – they’re big, muscular dogs that are often referred to as the gentle giants of the canine world. But despite their docile appearance, many Great Danes are scared of everything!
Great Danes are not actually supposed to be timid or fearful, but unfortunately many of them are.
In this blog post, we’ll explore some of the reasons why these dogs might be so fearful and offer some tips for helping them overcome their fears.
Why Are Great Danes Timid?
Unfortunately, many people have come to believe that all Great Danes are timid and scared of everything, even if there is no real evidence to suggest this.
It’s true that some Great Danes may be more anxious or skittish than other dogs, but every dog responds differently to different situations.
Genetics can play a role in a dog’s temperament, and some Great Danes may inherit a predisposition to anxiety or fearfulness. Early socialization is critical for all dogs, and if a Great Dane doesn’t receive adequate exposure to different people, animals, and environments during their crucial developmental stages, they may become more apprehensive.
Additionally, traumatic experiences, such as loud noises or frightening encounters, can contribute to fear in Great Danes, as they can in any dog breed. It’s important for Great Dane owners to provide a supportive and nurturing environment, along with proper training and positive reinforcement, to help their dogs build confidence and overcome their fears.
The Great Dane Breed Standard
The Great Dane breed standard describes the ideal physical characteristics and temperament of a Great Dane, including their fearlessness.
If you look closely at the breed standard, you’ll find that “courage and vigilance” are some of the most important characteristics of this noble dog.
Here is a direct quote from the Great Dane Club of America’s written standard for Great Danes:
The Great Dane must be spirited, courageous, always friendly and dependable, and never timid or aggressive.
Fearful Great Danes Everywhere
So, if the written standard states that the Great Dane should be a confident, fearless, and friendly dog, why do so many people believe or notice otherwise?
There are several things that lead to this (which we will dig into below), but the biggest culprit driving the belief is social media.
People are sharing and normalizing these traits, and it’s having a significant impact on the public perception of Great Danes.
Have you ever seen somebody in a social media group who is upset or amused that their dog is terrified of strangers, objects, or even simple things such as a wrapped present?
Several dog owners will often chime in and say things such as:
“That’s just a Dane thing!”
“Totally normal! These dogs are such chickens!”
“Danes are afraid of everything, it’s just how they are.”
I hate to break it to you, but no, this is not a “Dane Thing” and no, Danes are not actually fearful timid chickens.
At least, they aren’t supposed to be.
Why is my Great Dane Afraid?
Below, I’m going to list the factors that contribute to fearful and anxious behavior in Great Danes. How many of these things can be avoided?
Genetic Predisposition
The genetics of temperament is not yet well understood, but there is enough research pointing to the fact that the pedigree strongly impacts fearfulness and poor behaviors in Great Danes.
Unfortunately, these dogs will also be more prone to bloat, a painful and extremely deadly condition in large and giant breed dogs. There are definitely genetic causes behind fearfulness, bloat, and temperament that need more research.
One of the best ways to avoid this occurring is to never support breeders that aren’t heavily invested in the genetic background, OFA health testing, structure, and health of the dogs being bred.
Environmental Factors
The environment in which a dog is raised has a tremendous impact on its behavior and fear levels. It is believed that dogs with a genetic predisposition to fearfulness, anxiety, and aggression may be more susceptible to damage caused by these factors.
This is why some dogs can experience traumatic events and still be calm, sweet, and loving while other dogs will become extremely reactive and fearful after a mild but stressful everyday occurrence (such as a veterinary visit or being left home alone).
Great Danes who are exposed to loud noises, sudden movements, or rough handling when they are young may be more likely to become fearful than those who are not. There is a huge difference between positive exposure to things in the environment, and flat-out scaring a puppy for life.
These environmental factors can include anything from thunderstorms to being scolded. For some dogs, hearing a loud car zoom by just once is enough to cause them to fear cars for life.
These dogs may also be more prone to developing separation anxiety and becoming overly attached to their owners, too.
Negative Experiences
Dogs living in shelters, or who have been rescued from situations such as puppy mills, often come with a multitude of behavioral issues. Some of this is because of the aforementioned genetic link, and some of it is because they weren’t offered the gentle, positive early socialization that they needed in life.
In some cases, the fear stems from past traumas or abuse. These experiences will stick with a dog and can cause them anxiety and fearfulness that they will live with for their whole lives.
A single dog attack, a bad experience with a child, or a yank of the leash on the neck can be enough to cause a dog to become fearful of certain people, animals, situations, and environments.
This is not to say we should coddle our dogs and prevent all forms of stress or potential negative experiences!
As a matter of fact, previous studies show that small amounts of stress can actually build confidence. It is important to be aware of our dog’s degree of fear and make sure to provide them with gentle guidance and encouragement when possible, not coddling.
Bad Dog Training Methods
This is one of the most commonly overlooked reasons why Great Danes are often scared of everything. When a dog is trained using punishment, fear, intimidation, or too much physical restraint it can become fearful and anxious.
Positive training techniques should always be used with Great Danes to ensure that their relationship with humans is based on trust and respect.
For modern, humane training methods, find a dog trainer who uses balanced + positive techniques focused on rewards, great experiences, and happy body language.
Even the most gentle, well-tempered dog is susceptible to this.
Therefore, it is important to teach the correct behavior and avoid excessive jerking, tension, or yanking when walking your dog; especially if they see another dog or human on the path nearby!
Communicating to your dog with vocal cues (such as “easy”, “with me”, or “look”) and rewarding that behavior is much more effective than relying on physical restraint and force. Pair this with the gentle on/off pressure from a properly fit prong collar to teach positive loose-leash walking skills.
Finally, dogs have an innate sense of body language that can greatly affect how they interpret a handler’s attitude. If their owner or handler is anxious or fearful, the dog will pick up on those emotions and become anxious as well. It is important to remain calm when handling Great Danes in order to communicate that there is nothing to fear.
Poor Socialization
A lack of socialization can cause Great Danes to develop fear and anxiety about new people, places, animals, and situations.
Bringing an overwhelmed, scared puppy into a pet store or around rude dogs in an uncontrolled situation (ehhh…the dog park) is not socialization; that is a bad experience. It’s important to advocate for your puppy.
Good breeders are using programs such as Puppy Culture and ENS to develop strong and resilient dogs by taking advantage of the early stages of development. Brain development in the first weeks of life is incredible and every experience that the puppy has at that stage can have a significant impact on temperament.
Giving Great Danes a good start in life with responsible breeding, positive training, and proper socialization methods should help prevent them from being scared of everything!
We’ve created a well-loved Great Dane puppy socialization guide for reference. You can view it here:
Last, but not least, we have to mention that pain and medical conditions (including thyroid disorders, arthritis, heart conditions, poor conformation, and even overgrown nails) can affect how a dog views and interacts with the world.
Your veterinarian can rule out any physical ailments or conditions that could be causing the fear response in your dog. Even something as simple as a change in diet can make a big difference in how a dog looks, feels, acts, and behaves!
Even puppies can be suffering from medical conditions and pain that cause them to be nervous, anxious, timid, frustrated, or aggressive.
Always talk to your veterinarian if your dog isn’t happy, healthy, energetic, and robust.
How do you Calm a Scared Great Dane?
If you have a fearful, timid, or reactive Great Dane, the key is to provide them with positive experiences.
Focus on building trust and strengthening your bond – working through a few simple obedience exercises (or learning new tricks) can be a great way to bond with your pup and give them something to focus their energy on.
It’s important to set up successful experiences for your dog, too. When a dog is practicing fearful and timid behavior on repeat, they are actually reinforcing (practicing and worsening) that behavior and those emotions.
Never coddle your dog, either! It’s important to recognize that your pup needs help, but it’s also important to be strong and confident in your leadership.
Many times, by showing confidence and calm indifference yourself, you can naturally deescalate the fear and anxiety that your dog is feeling.
Throw in a little bit of positive reinforcement and with time, your dog can learn that great things and opportunities are all around them. A quality training program can be the difference between a scared and timid pup, to an outgoing and confident dog.
A lot of people believe that a fearful dog can be “cured” with enough love and attention. Unfortunately, this isn’t always the case.
Dogs can learn to cope better and develop more confidence over time, but many times the fear is still likely to remain at some level. It’s important to remember that fear was an evolutionary adaptation for our dogs – in the interest of survival, it’s quite normal for them to be cautious of some things!
It’s our job as owners and guardians to help them learn to live with and cope with that fear, rather than trying to “cure” it away.
It’s also important that we stop spreading misinformation. It’s not a “Dane thing” to be fearful, unstable, and flighty.
Don’t Make This Mistake
Showing a dog something that they are scared to elicit a funny (read: fearful) reaction for social media is not cute.
This is extremely poor handling and is wildly unfair to dogs who aren’t sure how to cope with the world in a healthy way.
If you have a scared or anxious dog, know that you are not alone. Many other dog owners share your struggles!
Reach out to your veterinarian, an experienced trainer, and professional resources for help in working with and managing your pup’s behavior. Do some research into positive behavior modification techniques such as B.A.T. 2.0 by Grisha Stewart as well.
It can take time and patience to get to the bottom of why your pup is so scared, but doing so will be better for their health and happiness!
When I met my friend Natalie (we have littermates and started this blog together), I was a noisy card-carrying member of the ‘force-free’ dog training club. Both of us were anti-Purina and hated ‘big kibble’, too. I disliked breeders and believed only in rescue. Prong collars and E-Collars? NEVER.
Together, we wanted our blog to be rooted in ethics, not to mention current research, science, and methods.
What surprised me was learning just how much my mind began to change as I researched and shared information from legitimate scientific sources. The more studies I read and the more I learned, the farther I strayed from those original ideas I had about training, food, and breeding.
I have since revoked my membership to the force-free, kibble-hating, breeder-hating dog club.
As a science-backed blogger and dog advocate, here are 5 CONTROVERSIAL ways I raise my Danes. From nutrition to training, to E-Collars, I’m sharing it all!
We Don’t Rest After Meals
In the Great Dane community, it’s long been cited that resting before or after meals would prevent bloat.
(Bloat is a deadly condition in large and giant breed dogs where their stomach fills up with gas, fluid, or air. If the stomach flips, the prognosis is grim. This condition is often sudden and may result in death, quickly. There is no known trigger. However, there are known risk factors including genetics, unstable temperaments, and poor gut health).
However, during THIS STUDY at Tufts University, researchers found absolutely no correlation between exercise and bloat. The study indicated that most cases of bloat happen to dogs that are resting, not moving!
There was no correlation of bloat risk to exercise before or after eating, as most dogs bloated in the middle of the night with an empty, gas-filled stomach.
Tufts University Bloat Study
This is not to say that rest will kill a Great Dane. But we need to stop villifying movement and food, too.
There has never been a single study proving that movement caused bloat in dogs or that rest was a legitimate way to keep it from happening. As a matter of fact, bloat rates have increased dramatically in the last 30+ years despite ‘resting’ being cited as a preventative.
I hate to break it to you, but it’s not working.
While it may be smart to take it easy after meals to prevent indigestion or stretching the stomach ligaments out (which CAN lead to an increased risk of bloat over time), movement itself is not likely to be a trigger.
I don’t believe in the false sense of security that this old-school, outdated advice provides.
I Use a Prong Collar
Prong collars look awful. They are metal and pokey, which makes people assume that they work by being extremely painful.
Here is the actual reality:
A properly fit, high-quality Herm Sprenger prong collar is less aversive, less frustrating, and more humane than a front clip harness, “Gentle Leader”, or never getting to go out because of dangerous pulling and lunging behavior.
Why is this? Prong collars are built to distribute pressure evenly around the neck. This pressure does not hurt or pinch, but it is uncomfortable.
Coincidentally, the pressure from front-clip “no-pull” harnesses and “gentle leaders” is uncomfortable too. That’s why they work. The difference here is that the prong collar doesn’t rely on restricting movement.
“No-Pull” harnesses restrict shoulder movement and alter the dog’s gait, causing potential damage and pain to the front assembly and joints. “Gentle Leader” type head collars restrict neck and head movement and can potentially damage the eyes, nose, jaw, and spine.
Watch THIS video on YouTube to learn more. ⬅ One of the best parts about this video is that the dog’s body language immediately improves when the trainer removes the harness from her! The harness was causing suppression of her emotion and behavior; a common problem that people don’t notice or care to admit.
Prong collars do not harm dogs, suppress, or restrict them. The amount of pressure needed to communicate with one can be applied with a single finger. With proper training, the dog learns to remove this pressure by turning back to you for a reward.
The prong collar offers a simple, painless, on-off sensation that solves a LOT of problems for millions of people struggling with their dogs.
Look, these are GIANT breed dogs. Even the most well trained animal is stronger than most humans. Lunging, pulling, and reactivity are dangerous behaviors in Great Danes, and it’s not fair to lock them up for life because we cannot trust them to be polite, calm, and gentle on a leash.
As I mentioned above, I revoked my card to the anti-Purina club. I used to be a rabid hater of all things Purina. As far as I was concerned, Royal Canin was trash, and Hill’s Science Diet? Don’t get me started.
So how did I go from that negative mentality about the ‘Big 5 Foods’ to telling people who feed kibble that those brands are actually among only a small handful of acceptable choices?
All three of my dogs were struggling in some way or another. Chronic loose stools, swollen paws, itching, heat intolerance. Then one of my dogs became very, very sick. She was lethargic, had become weak, had no muscle tone, and had developed some concerning health problems.
My veterinarian implored me to put her on Hill’s Science Diet or Purina, a suggestion that I thought was appalling and gross. I thought, “She is literally dying, why would I put her on that food and make it worse?”
So I took her bloodwork into Chuck & Don’s and asked a pet store employee to look it over and give me advice.
Read that again. I asked a pet store employee, with no qualifications, to tell me how to treat my dog.
He told me to choose a “high-quality” diet from their shelves, and “steer clear of that nasty Hill’s Science Diet trash“.
In telling me this, he validated my own misguided beliefs, and generated sales. ?
It made ME feel good to buy that $90 bag of ‘Holistic Super-Premium” kibble, but it did not make my dog feel good. As a matter of fact, it did nothing for her.
Do you know what did make her feel good and ultimately saved her life? PURINA PRO PLAN.
Within weeks of feeding Purina, she was developing muscle tone again. All of her symptoms reversed completely and her energy level skyrocketed. My other dogs were suddenly thriving, too. It was nothing like I had been told.
Many dog food brands use sneaky tricks and marketing tactics including ‘Ingredient Splitting’ to make you think the food has a higher meat content or is healthier. Everything they say is to get you to make a purchase.
The more ‘holistic, natural, and premium’ the kibble seems, the more likely it is that they are better at marketing than they are at making truly nutritious and balanced food.
READ MORE at the Tufts University Petfoodolgy blog. This is the most scientific, modern source for nutrition information and is run by veterinarians with board certifications in nutrition. One of the veterinary nutritionists is even a consultant for BalanceIt, where you can create safe, balanced homemade food recipes for your dog. Everything they say is backed by actual research, and you won’t find an ad, affiliate link, or financial motivation in sight.
My Dogs are E-Collar Trained
Yup. That’s me. Former “Force-Free” dog training fanatic.
All three of my dogs are now E-Collar trained. The “force-free / R+ / Positive ” dog training community HATES E-Collars, and with good reason.
Too many frustrated people buy cheap shock collars on Amazon and zap the crap out of their unsuspecting, poorly-trained pets. This is not humane and it’s not fair.
E-Collars are different. They first require that the dog has a good foundation in basic positive obedience.
Then, they use a gentle muscle stimulation that is not aversive or painful. This stimulation is often imperceptible to humans and replaces leash pressure. By replacing leash pressure, we can effectively and safely eliminate physical restraint. This is an incredible innovation for giant breed dogs who are strong and powerful!
By eliminating physical restraint, we eliminate the frustration, safety problems, physical power struggles, and potential damage to the head, neck, and shoulders that can be caused by collars, head collars, harnesses, and long lines.
Because I trained my dogs to respond to very low levels of muscle stimulation, they can be off-leash anywhere that it is safe and legal to do so. They don’t have to drag long lines around, I can trust them to be in my front yard, and they would never, ever dream of bolting, jumping a fence, or leaving our property. If they did, the pressure (not shocks! Pressure, like hitting the end of a long leash) from their E-Collar will remind them to turn around.
When they turn around, the pressure is gone; they are 100% in control of their collars and the sensation that comes from them.
Run from any dog trainer who tells you that an E-Collar is always aversive and a harness and life on a long leash are not. They do not understand how behavior science, modern E-Collar training, or how physical restraints of all kinds utilize pressure and punishment in different ways.
Since E-Collar training my dogs, they have more freedom, more choice, and more enrichment than ever before.
I Let My Dogs be Dogs
What does it mean to let a dog be a dog?
It means letting them get dirty. Allowing them to roll in mud pits, dig holes, crawl through the grass, and explore the world around them to their heart’s content.
Letting a dog be a dog means treating them like dogs, not people or children. Giving them boundaries and saying NO to keep them safe, so that I can tell them YES as much as possible.
It means letting them sniff the ground on walks, or better yet, be allowed to run naturally and freely off-leash as much as possible. That off-leash privilege begins with training, lots of boundaries, and yes, an E-Collar.
All three of my dogs have orthopedic issues related to injuries from before I got them. Two are missing legs, one has a very deformed foot. I do not coddle them. They are allowed to run, play, tumble, struggle, fall, and get up again like any other dog. I take them to training classes. We go hiking. We walk. We play.
With Boundaries, of Course…
Educated dog ownership means never humanizing their emotions.
Dogs are not spiteful or jealous or ‘dominant’, they are however often insecure, pushy, or rude and desperately need our guidance and understanding, not our assumptions and judgments.
I have a no-tolerance policy when it comes to teeth, nails, and baths. My dogs get their spa treatments on a regular basis whether they like it or not. This is one place where I don’t let them just ‘be dogs’, because if I did, I would be neglecting needs that aren’t met naturally in the typical suburban home.
We see the veterinarian regularly. I don’t coddle them there but we do make it a good experience – so much so that even my more timid rescue girl will willingly go with the veterinarian and lay down politely for her exams. They step onto the scales because I made it clear that it was not-negotiable.
To some extent, I believe that the ‘force-free’ and ‘fear-free’ movement is harmful. Dogs who never face stress don’t learn to cope with it either, and it’s not uncommon for frustration, reactivity and fear to increase with those methods.
As a reformed ‘force-free’ person, I now realize just how much science is cherry picked to fit that belief system.
Dogs are not babies. We don’t have to coddle them or remove every single stress from their lives. Being isolated and restrained in the name of avoiding all forms of stress is no life for a dog at all. That said, we don’t have to be jerks to them, either! Force and harsh physical handling are not cool. Find some middle ground.
Because I have high expectations of them, they are happier, calmer, friendlier, and stronger as a result!
Bonus: I Keep My Dogs LEAN
If I had a dollar for every person who asked me if my dogs were starving, I’d be rich. They are not starving. They are covered in muscle and have tons of energy. Starving dogs can’t say the same.
We are SO used to seeing overweight dogs, that a healthy-weight dog covered in muscle can appear alarmingly thin. Our perception has been skewed.
Truth time: overweight dogs have shorter lifespans (2 years, on average). They are more likely to suffer from arthritis, joint problems, cancer, heart problems, and complications related to anesthesia, among other things.
Danes are a lean breed. They take forever to mature, too. This photo is of my intact male at around age 2. He still has some filling out to do here, but not in terms of fat! His head, chest, and hips continued to broaden from this point on.
If you want to reduce cancer risk, keep your dog lean! That’s step one.
I really could add a 7th item to this list about spaying and neutering, but I’ll stop here and save it for another day 🙂
If you are looking for the best dog chews recommended by vets, we’ve created a handy guide for you! Not all dog chews are created equal.
Some cause obstructions, others break teeth, and some have questionable quality. Vet-recommended dog treats and chews will always be safer for your pet, and more beneficial, too.
If you’re like most dog owners, you are always on the lookout for new and interesting ways to keep your pup entertained…but you want to keep them healthy, too, right?
In this post, we will cover:
The differences between dog chews that veterinarians will recommend and those that they won’t
Bones that are too hard and may chip teeth
Chews for aggressive chewers
Dental chews for dogs
Veterinary-recommended brands of dog chews and enrichment toys
Signs of a Quality Dog Chew
Chewing on bones is a natural, enriching, and satisfying behavior for dogs that helps to keep their teeth clean. You will notice that most dogs are very calm and happy when chewing on something!
Some dog chews, however, can be bad for your dog’s health. They may be a choking hazard or can result in broken teeth, obstructions in your dog’s stomach or intestines, or other health problems.
Unfortunately, the pet industry is huge and driven by a lot of marketing. Many companies are selling things that are not safe for your dog.
When choosing a vet-recommended dog chew, it’s important to look for signs of quality that will help you avoid these hazards.
VOHC Dental Health Label
The V.O.H.C. (Veterinary Oral Health Council) is an important organization that tests and certifies products for dental health.
If you see the VOHC label on a product, you can be sure that it is effective at reducing tartar and plaque buildup on teeth. Veterinarians highly recommend VOHC-labeled dental treats to help combat dental disease and promote healthy gums.
Dog Chew Materials
Dog chews come in a variety of materials including:
Natural bones
Animal products such as rawhide or bully sticks
Antlers and horns
Natural ingredients such as corn, wheat, or oats
Sheep, goat, or cow’s milk
Nylon and rubber
Biscuits and hard biscuits
Each type of dog chew has its own benefits and drawbacks, so it is important to do your research before choosing one for your dog.
Aggressive chewers, for example, should not be given treats that are easy to break down into large chunks, or treats that can cause them to crack their teeth.
Some chews are edible, while others are not. Rubber, nylon, and antlers are all non-edible, while rawhide, bones, bully sticks, and biscuits are edible.
There are pros and cons to both types of chews.
Edible chews are more appealing to dogs since they can be eaten. Most dogs will be more likely to chew on them, which is important for mental stimulation and keeping teeth clean.
Edible chews can pose a choking hazard or obstruction risk if they are not properly digested, and can also lead to weight gain if your dog consumes too many of them.
Non-edible chews, on the other hand, are not as appealing to dogs since they cannot be eaten. However, they may be less likely to cause obstructions or fractured teeth, and can often be reused again and again.
Safe Chews for Dog’s Teeth
Most veterinarians agree that no matter what kind of chew you choose for your dog, it should never be so hard as to cause teeth to crack, fracture, or wear down.
A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to dent the chew with your thumbnail. If you can’t, the chew may be unsafe for your dog.
We go into detail about each of our top picks below!
The best vet-recommended chews will stand up to aggressive chewers, be safe to eat (with supervision), will be less likely to damage teeth, are a tasty treat, and will be enriching and engaging to your dog.
Virbac C.E.T. Rawhide Chews
Not all rawhide dog chews are created equal. A lot of rawhide is imported and may not be up to the same safety standards.
Virbac C.E.T. Rawhide Chews are made with high-quality beef hide, which is more digestible than rawhide, and then treated with enzymes. They are approved by the V.O.H.C. (Veterinary Oral Health Council) for cleaning teeth.
We do not recommend any kind of rawhide-type chew for dogs who guard, hoard, or gulp. They must be encouraged to calmly gnaw and chew C.E.T. rawhides, never to swallow large pieces.
This will help strengthen their jaw muscles and provide oral health benefits. Unlike most other rawhide products, the Virbac C.E.T. is considered by veterinarians to be a safe chew for many dogs.
We do not recommend these chews for dogs who will swallow large chunks. These should be used by dogs who like the process of gnawing, not gulping.
Raw, slightly frozen turkey (or chicken) necks (with the meat on) can help clean your dog’s teeth. Dogs love them, too!
When choosing to feed ANY kind of raw food to your pet, you must be aware of the very real risk of bacterial contamination.
Raw turkey necks are not necessarily good for dogs who don’t typically eat raw food, and they must be offered with supervision to dogs who are also taught to crunch them up slowly. Good hygiene practices here are also a must!
It’s important to note that turkey necks are considered food and must be calculated as part of your dog’s diet and calorie or nutrient intake. Don’t overfeed. They are a treat to use sparingly.
Some veterinarians will recommend raw bones, some will not. Talk to your veterinarian! They see 100’s of pets every month and know what typically results in ER visits and digestive issues.
It’s no secret that we love West Paw chew toys for dogs, and this is one of my personal favorites!
The West Paw Qwizl is a great option for dogs who like to chew and play fetch. It’s made of durable rubber, so it will hold up to aggressive chewers and large dogs.
It’s also bouncy and fun, making it a fantastic and fun toy for interactive playtime. The Qwizl can be filled with treats or dog-safe peanut butter, which can make it even more appealing to dogs as they attempt to lick, gnaw, or chew the goodies out.
You can even use it as a bully stick holder!
The soft texture is less likely to cause tooth fractures and the whole thing is dishwasher-safe.
West Paw chews and dog toys are made in the USA and are backed by a 100% satisfaction guarantee. They are also non-toxic, safe for dogs, and eco-friendly. 10/10!
No dog chew blog would be complete without mention of the Kong Classic dog toy. It’s a vet-recommended chew toy that is perfect for dogs who like to chew and play fetch.
The Kong Classic is made of durable rubber and can be filled with treats, dog food, or peanut butter. It’s also dishwasher-safe.
Kongs are great for interactive playtime and can help keep puppies and dogs busy! We highly recommend them for crate training, puppy training, and teaching active dogs to settle in the home.
Choose the red version for average chewers and the black one for tough chewers and always choose the largest size possible for your breed/dog.
They were proven to help reduce plaque and tartar buildup on teeth, and dogs love them! Vet-recommended dog chews like Pro Plan Dental Chewz will keep your dog busy and contribute to good oral health, too.
As always, supervise your dog while they are enjoying these!
Whimzees are made of all-natural vegetarian ingredients and are also V.O.H.C.-approved. They come in fun shapes and sizes, and dogs love them!
Whimzees are a great way to keep your dog’s teeth clean and help reduce plaque and tartar buildup to keep your dog’s mouth fresh and healthy.
As an added bonus, they’re also low in fat and calories. Supervise your pet; if they get large chunks off, this may not be the dog chew for them. For giant breed dogs, these may not be large enough. You know your pet best.
BeneBones are synthetic nylon non-edible chew that is flavored with real food ingredients like chicken, bacon, and peanut butter.
They are durable and last longer than most natural bones and can be a good outlet for dogs who like to chew often.
However, they are not necessarily great for teeth (as they are not very soft) and can cause wear if used excessively. Keep usage to a minimum, and make sure to pick chews in a variety of different types to keep your dog busy and engaged.
Using the same type of dog chew each day (especially the nylon ones) is not a healthy habit and not vet-recommended, either.
Raw marrow bones are a single-ingredient natural product. Not all veterinarians approve of these, however, some do. Talk to your veterinarian before offering marrow bones to your dog.
Raw bones can be very messy, so if you decide to offer them, do so outside or on an easy-to-clean surface. They can also splinter, so it’s important to supervise your dog while they are chewing on them.
For Great Danes, we recommend long beef or bison marrow bones, offered frozen. Don’t allow your dog to have them so long that they eat a ton of marrow at once! This can cause digestive upset. Additionally, monitor your dog.
A dog who is using a marrow bone appropriately will be scraping their teeth on it, not trying to crunch it up. If your dog is doing more with the bone than trying to get the marrow out or scraping their teeth on the sides of it, it’s time to take it away.
Once your dog has emptied the bone of marrow, throw it out. At that point, the bone itself will have become more brittle and will be more likely to fracture.
Here is our list of dog chews that your dog should not have access to:
Mass market rawhide (not approved by the V.O.H.C.)
Horns or antlers, (such as elk antlers) that can crack teeth
Any chew that your dog aggressively chomps and easily breaks large pieces off of
Cooked bones of ANY type
Rope toys (great for tug, unsafe for chewing on!)
Smoked and meaty ‘dog bones’, including knuckles, (like the kind you might see in the grocery store)
Smoked pig ears, hooves, and similar type dog chews you might find at the farm store (can cause an obstruction)
Dog Chew Best Practices
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using V.O.H.C.-approved dental chews and dog treats. Most will say they can (or should) be offered daily.
When offering dog chews that might splinter or cause an obstruction (such as C.E.T. rawhides, raw turkey necks, bully sticks, or raw marrow bones), supervise your dog as much as possible!
Some non-edible chew toys are the safest option for crate training when you might not be actively supervising your dog, assuming they aren’t prone to shredding and gulping. Make sure to choose the correct size toy for your dog.
Never give chews, including ‘tough’ ones, to dogs that are prone to getting large pieces off or swallowing non-edible items such as rubber, nylon, or fabric.
Dog Dental Health
It’s also important to note that VOHC dental chews are NOT a replacement for daily teeth brushing and professional dental cleanings by your veterinarian.
Your dog’s gums or teeth may wear down unevenly if they are offered too many of the same kind of chew or if they favor one side. This is especially true for aggressive chewers!
Encourage variety and different textures as much as possible when offering dental treats or other dog bones.
This question requires a blog post just on its own, but it’s important to touch on!
Some dogs become very possessive and even aggressive when it comes to their food, especially bones and high-value treats. This is a survival instinct that stems back to the days when dogs were wild!
Signs that your dog is resource-guarding and insecure include:
Ears pinned
Stiffness
Hovering/covering it up
Burying it
Low growls
Shaking when you approach
Belly-up posture
Snarls, snaps, and bites
Dogs in the wild had to protect their food from other animals, or they would simply starve to death. If your dog is showing signs of fear or aggression while chewing on a bone, it’s important that you understand why it’s happening.
It has absolutely nothing to do with dominance or ‘alpha’ behavior. As a matter of fact, resource guarding is a sign of insecurity.
The worst thing you can do is take bones or treats, hover, pester, annoy, scold, hit, or punish your dog for guarding its chew toy.
Because it is such a dangerous behavior, it’s important to monitor the interactions that you and especially your children have with a dog who is prone to this.
To begin eliminating it, prevent the behavior by not provoking it in the first place. Give your dog a safe, quiet space to work on their chew, and respect their space so they can do so in peace.
Never allow children to mess with your dog’s bone, food, crate, toys, or bedding, especially while they are actively using those things!
Over time, you can reduce the behavior and change your dog’s mental state by proving to your dog that when you approach, GOOD things happen! Calmly walk by with a gentle, non-threatening posture, drop a bite of chicken, and leave.
After a few repetitions, your dog will begin to feel less stressed that you are about to take their valuable dog treats. With time, your dog will be happy to see you near its bone and will no longer feel insecure, making the whole process safer and less stressful for all.
Did you know that your Great Dane may be missing out on important nutrition that could reduce their risk of experiencing bloat? If you are looking for the best nutrition to prevent bloat in dogs, this post is it. We’re looking at the actual science and research to help ensure that you and your Great Dane are happy, healthy, and stress-free!
There are two things your Great Dane needs in their diet if you want to reduce their chance of GDV Bloat.
Bloat is the #1 killer of Great Danes. It can happen suddenly when you least expect it. Bloat in giant breed dogs is painful, traumatic, and often results in death.
Let’s dig in…
What is Bloat in Dogs?
First, you have to understand what bloat is. I’ll keep this short.
Bloat is when the stomach fills up with gas, fluid, or air. Left untreated, the stomach can then flip over on itself. This is called torsion. Torsion is deadly.
37% of Great Danes might experience bloat in their lifetime.
RUN, don’t walk, to your nearest emergency veterinarian if you see any of these signs of bloat in your dog:
Bloated stomach
Distress including pacing, crying, whining, head hanging
Foaming at the mouth or excessive drool
Attempting to vomit (but may be unable to)
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Two Things Your Great Dane Needs in Their Diet to Prevent Bloat
I mentioned there were two things you can add to your Great Danes’ diet right now to reduce their risk of experiencing bloat. Here they are:
A kibble with meat meal or meat by-product meal as a primary ingredient
Canned or fresh foods
I’m going to dig into BOTH of these in depth below, but here is the scientific study I am referencing:
“Conversely, feeding a dry food containing a rendered meat-and-bone meal decreased risk by 53 percent in comparison with the overall risk for the dogs in the study. Mixing table food or canned food into dry food also decreased the risk of bloat.
During the past 30 years there has been a 1,500 percent increase in the incidence of bloat, and this has coincided with the increased feeding of dry dog foods.“
Meat meal and meat by-product meal are GOOD in kibble! Reduced bloat risk aside, let’s talk a bit more about why.
Fresh meat or fresh deboned meats (not meat meals, in other words) are 70% water. This makes them heavy before cooking, so they show up on top of the ingredients list, but not after.
Just imagine what happens to fresh meat when it’s extruded into kibble! Only 30% of it will be left, even if your kibble brand says ‘meat is the first ingredient‘.
Yikes!
Meat meal and meat by-product meals are rendered and dehydrated before they go into the kibble. At just 10% water, that means your kibble will contain a LOT more actual meat and meat-based nutrition!
Not only that, but unlike fresh meat, meat meals (including those made with by-products) contain organ meat, cartilage, bone, and skin which are highly nutritious and species-appropriate.
No wonder meat meals reduce the risk of bloat!
If your kibble brand is mostly ‘fresh meat’, it’s time to find something better.
What dog food brands reduce the risk of bloat?
While no correlation between specific dog food brands has ever been made when it comes to bloat in Great Danes, the information we’ve learned about meat meals can certainly help point us in the right direction.
The second important thing mentioned in the Tufts University Bloat Study was that canned or fresh foods may reduce the risk of bloat!
What does this mean? Your dog gets a TASTY topper on their food, and you can feel good knowing that you are not just feeding a dry kibble (which is correlated with an increased risk of bloat).
You don’t need expensive, fancy ‘toppers’ from the natural pet food store. As a matter of fact, most of those are, expensive, unbalanced and a waste of money. We have much better ideas for this, including helpful links below!
When choosing unbalanced toppers of any kind, including table scraps, meat, goat milk, eggs, treats, or incomplete raw blends, they must be less than 5% of the overall intake.
Encourage SLOW eating! Toppers may be fun and enticing, but fast eating increases bloat risk. Use puzzle feeders (like this one on Amazon) to slow your pup down.
The Best Canned Foods for Great Danes
I personally use and love Purina ONE canned food, because it’s economical and full of meat! Depending on your budget, you can offer a spoonful or an entire can. Anything is likely to be better than nothing!
Address poor gut health, nutritional deficiencies, and the gut microbiome by choosing a quality well-formulated diet and sticking with it. Poor gut health is a major risk factor for bloat.
I have a tripod Great Dane. If you are facing amputation, or are adopting a new pet and need information on how to care for a three legged dog, you’ve come to the right place.
Dogs on three legs may require a little extra care, but with some love and patience, they can be just as happy and healthy as any other pup!
Ready to hear about my mistakes and learn how to care for a three legged dog?
How much exercise can a dog on three legs do?
What is the best nutrition for tripod dogs?
Important considerations for the health of a three-legged pup
How to get through the amputation process
and more!
Matilda’s Story
Matilda is a Great Dane (possibly a mix, we aren’t sure!) whose breeder was keeping her for breeding purposes. At some point around 3 months of age, she was hit by a car.
The breeder took her to the veterinarian and essentially left her there. Matilda suffered for days with a shattered limb while waiting for the law to say that she had been abandoned.
As soon as they could, the veterinarian was able to perform surgery and amputate her leg. Had they been able to operate sooner, the leg might have been saved.
I adopted her when she was 5 months old. At the time she was gangly, weak, and had flat feet and downed pasterns.
She’s now a thriving, active, happy 95 lb. girl. At age 5 she is still outrunning many dogs!
Reasons for Dog Amputation
Some dogs have angular limb deformities or severe injuries that warrant an amputation. There are times when amputation is the most humane choice, compared to months of orthopedic surgery, screws, plates, and rehabilitation.
Other dogs have osteosarcoma, an aggressive bone cancer that commonly affects the legs. In these cases, amputation is often recommended to control the spread of the disease and may buy a dog months or years of life.
For dogs with advanced osteosarcoma, veterinarians may suggest alternatives. If your veterinarian suggests humane euthanasia, you might seek a second opinion. However, this opinion is often made in the interest of choosing the most ethical thing for the dog.
Dogs that are overweight, in advanced stages of cancer, or who have other orthopedic issues (such as hip dysplasia) aren’t always good candidates for amputation, unfortunately.
The Amputation Process & Healing
Lucky for me, Matilda came to me as a tripaw and was already healed. However, I had been through the amputation process with our little dog Jackson, and the rules are the same. I’ve been there!
It’s really, REALLY hard to drop a dog off at the veterinarian for amputation! This process can be emotional and heartbreaking. Hang in there and know that you are making the best decision for your pet.
By this point, your veterinarian will have performed an intensive health screening including blood work and possibly an echocardiogram to make sure that your dog is healthy enough for surgical limb amputation.
While your dog is going through surgery to remove its injured or cancerous leg, make sure to prepare things at home. Having ice packs as well as heat packs available is key.
Put runners down all over so your pup does not slip around and cause further injury. Plan to stay home and even sleep next to your pup for at least the first week.
Make sure your veterinarian has prescribed adequate pain management for your dog to go home with; if your dog is shaking, drooling, panting, or aggressive, call your veterinarian.
If you have another pet, make sure to keep them away from the surgical area when you first get home. It is best to confine your tripawd to a small area with easy access to their food, water, and bathroom.
Do not let your dog run too much. This can cause hematomas and make healing take much longer. You can help your amputee dog recover quickly by limiting movement and following your veterinarian’s orders.
I recommend keeping your dog on a leash and using a harness with a handle (such as the Petsafe Mobility Harness) for those first days working on balance and mobility.
Dogs adapt amazingly well and most vets find those canine patients typically bounce back very quickly.
Tripod Dog Exercise
Keeping your tripod fit is key to maintaining their health and wellness!
Of course, you will want to avoid high-impact activities and focus on rebuilding muscle mass in the remaining limbs.
Protect your dog’s joints by avoiding hard and slick surfaces, and keep your dog’s body weight on the lean side of things.
Three-legged Dog Weight & Health
It is very important for all animals, but especially those with chronic health conditions, to maintain a healthy weight.
Dogs that are overweight are at risk for developing orthopedic problems, such as arthritis and joint pain. They are also more likely to suffer from respiratory issues and have a shorter life span.
Three-legged dogs that are overweight will struggle to move efficiently, as they have more weight to throw around. Ask your veterinarian if your dog needs to lose weight; tripods must be kept lean.
The best way to keep your tripod dog lean is to control food intake and make sure he gets plenty of low-impact exercise such as swimming or being able to play freely on soft, varied terrain.
Nail Trims & Joint Care
Overgrown nails on dogs can cause a lot of pain. It is critically important that you keep your tripod dog’s nails short, round, and off the ground.
If your dog’s nails are overgrown, you will need to take him to the groomer or veterinarian for a professional nail trim. It is best to get this done every 1-2 weeks.
Nutrition for a Three-Legged Pet
Tripod dogs, especially giant breed ones can burn a LOT of calories just moving about. Having quality nutrition and the correct balance of protein, fat, and amino acids is key.
Consider a raw diet, formulated with the help of a DACVN (board certified Veterinary Nutritionist) OR choose a research-backed kibble such as Pro Plan, Royal Canin, or Hill’s Science Diet.
Contrary to popular belief, most ‘holistic’ dog food brands are not healthier and do not actually have better ingredients. A lot of ingredient lists that you see have been doctored for marketing purposes, yikes! These brands lack research and qualified development and formulation staff.
As a matter of fact, the wrong kibble can actually cause your dog to have nutritional deficiency leading to low energy, poor muscle tone, or heart problems.
All of these things are especially devastating to tripod dogs.
Life with a three-legged dog is almost like a life with any other dog, with a few accommodations.
I see it this way.
Do NOT disable your ‘disabled’ dog. Tripod dogs can run, play, and enjoy life just like any other.
Let your dog be a dog! Amputee animals generally adapt well and with very little effort.
Matilda (our three-legged Great Dane) regularly goes to the dog park, splashes in the water, runs in the field, and plays with other dogs! Our small tripod dog Jackson is athletic, agile, and fast.
Three-legged pets adapt incredibly well, and the last thing you want to do is to believe that they are not capable of being dogs and doing fun dog things!
The Best Harnesses for Three-Legged Dogs
In general, harnesses are restrictive to dogs, especially those with front-limb amputations.
They have a place, however, if you need something with a handle to help lift your dog up and over things. For this I recommend the Pet Safe Mobility Harness or a RuffWear 3-strap model such as the Flagline or Webmaster.
Hot take: Unless needed for support, do NOT use a harness of any kind on your tripod dog!
It’s best for joint health that they can move their remaining front limbs and shoulders without any obstruction at all. All harnesses are obstructive in some way.
For dogs that move well without support, I recommend a wide, flat collar and a long loose leash.
After that, I encourage you to look into modern positive E-Collar training so that your dog can be off-leash as much as possible.
Most dogs respond well to positive reinforcement training with a modern remote collar and enjoy the freedom of movement that they cannot have otherwise. This is an incredibly gentle and positive tool that is often misunderstood!
Matilda wearing a blue Ruffwear Webmaster Harness when she was young and still building strength.
Area Rugs & Runners
Preventing slips and falls is key to protecting your three-legged dogs remaining limbs.
As your tripod dog gets used to having three legs, she may be a little wobbly at first and require assistance.
To make things easier on him (and you), put area rugs and runners down in strategic places around your house. This will help your pup get traction following a leg amputation and avoid any unnecessary falls.
As an added benefit, carpet runners and other non-slick, soft surfaces will help protect joint health! The last thing you want is for your dog to damage a remaining leg.
Matilda and her tripod brother, Jackson, the day after they met.
Stairs
Most three legged dogs navigate steps just fine, however, in general, you want to avoid most of them. If your dog is afraid of stairs, use a Ruffwear Webmaster harness and lots of praise and treats.
Encourage slow movement up and down steps. Protect your tripod’s remaining limbs by helping them carefully navigate each step.
Ideally, walks should be on soft terrain such as grass, sand, and gravel, NOT pavement or sidewalks (which are hard on the joints).
Give your dog as much freedom to move as possible: avoid the use of head collars, prong collars, and harnesses that restrict movement. Use a LONG leash instead, or as above, train your dog to be off-leash with a modern E-Collar.
Tripods, especially large ones, MUST move faster than other dogs to keep up their momentum; if they are pulling on the leash, you probably need to move faster and keep up.
Physical Therapy and Rehabilitation
Your vet will have to provide a referral to a veterinary physical therapist (PT).
A veterinary rehabilitation therapist can help your pup regain muscle mass and range of motion as your tripod dog resumes life after surgery.
They will also be able to provide you with exercises to do at home in between appointments.
Swimming therapy and an underwater treadmill, paired with massage can be an excellent program for three-legged dogs!
Talk to your PT and your veterinarian. Some dogs also benefit from acupuncture, laser therapy, and chiropractic treatments.
Caring for a three-legged dog is not as difficult as it may seem. With the proper care and attention, your tripod dog can live a long and happy life!
Are you facing amputation, or living with a tripod? Share your story below!
Dog parks can be great places for your pet to get some exercise, sniff around, and be with other dogs. However, there are some pros and cons of dog parks to consider before you go!
Should you take your dog to a dog park?
What are the rules of a dog park? Are dog parks safe? Will your dog run away at a dog park?
We will answer all of these questions and more!
The Pros and Cons of Dog Parks
A bark park is an off-leash dog area where dogs can play and exercise. These parks have become increasingly popular in recent years, as dog owners look for ways to socialize and exercise their pets.
Bark parks usually have a fenced-in area with plenty of room to run around. Many of them also have agility equipment, such as ramps and tunnels to play on. Some even have pools or ponds to cool off in during summer!
If your dog enjoys being off-leash and is fine being around other dogs, a local dog park may be a great amenity for you!
What happens if my dog gets into a fight at the dog park?
Unfortunately, fighting is more likely to happen at dog parks.
Even the most responsible and diligent Great Dane owner may find their dog in the middle of a fight. How you react to it matters.
If your dog caused the problem, apologize to the other owners and be willing to compensate them if veterinary care is required. Then, immediately leave the park and consult with a dog trainer, asap.
If your dog was attacked, think about what led up to the attack. Was there anything you could have done to prevent it? Did somebody bring toys or treats that caused a disagreement?
Remember, dog parks are not supervised and you are responsible for your dog’s actions. If your dog is aggressive or will respond aggressively when challenged, it’s best to find other ways to socialize (even if your dog is fine 90% of the time).
Can my dog get sick from the dog park?
Yes, your dog can absolutely become ill with parvo, distemper, kennel cough, parasites, ringworm, or otherwise.
Not all dogs will be up to date on their vaccinations, and exposure to them could be bad for your dog’s health.
It is important to make sure that your dog has all of its vaccinations and booster shots, as well as flea and tick preventatives, in order to stay safe and healthy.
When Can I Take my Great Dane Puppy to the Dog Park?
It’s not a bad idea to expose a young puppy to the idea of a dog park long before you actually go into one.
This could mean spending time on a very long, loose leash outside of the park learning to ignore people and pets walking by or playing.
When your puppy is 5-6 months old and has demonstrated healthy play signals with others, good obedience, and a mild, calm, friendly temperament, you might consider the dog park for your pet.
Should I Take my Dog to the Dog Park?
Unfortunately, not all dogs are good candidates to visit the dog park.
If your pup runs away from you, tries to jump fences, or humps pets or humans often, the local dog park may not be the best place for him either. Dogs that do not have a good recall or are not well-socialized can be a danger to themselves and to other pups at the dog park.
Spay & Neuter Considerations
With Great Danes, we recommend keeping them intact until maturity (18-24 months), and in some cases, indefinitely.
However, this may mean that your intact pup cannot visit a bark park or socialize with other dogs.
A female dog in heat should never visit the dog park.
It’s important to note that intact males may attract negative attention from dogs who don’t like intact males; watch out for these interactions and step in before they escalate.
If you have an intact male at the dog park, his behavior is your responsibility. Intact males can become territorial about their space when faced with other intact males or pushy neutered males.
A well-tempered intact male should, however, be able to walk away from negative interactions and will not engage in aggressive behaviors of any kind, especially when asked to move on.
How Do I Keep My Dog From Running Away Off-Leash?
Truth time. If your dog is likely to run away from you and not listen to obedience commands while inside the park, your dog isn’t ready to be off-leash. This isespecially true if you have an intact giant breed dog.
Coming when called is a skill that requires a fair amount of training for most dogs. However, it’s fun and easy if you are willing to put a little time into it!
We recommend enrolling in an obedience class with a reputable trainer before taking your pup to the park. This way you can learn how to train your dog to come when called and work on any other behavior issues he may have.
Obedience classes are a great investment for any dog. Once your dog has a solid obedience foundation, you can layer in a modern E-Collar!
Good dog park manners are how you and your dog will avoid scuffles and stay safe!
The most important rule of thumb is to never leave your dog unsupervised, no matter how well you think he gets along with other dogs.
You are responsible for your dog’s behavior at all times, and even the best-behaved dog can have an off day.
Humping
Humping is often mistaken as a sign of dominance.
There is nothing mature or dominant about humping. Humping is a sign of insecurity, frustration, and over-excitement. If it’s happening, it’s not cute and chances are it can lead to fighting.
NEVER allow your dog to hump another dog at a dog park. This behavior should result in an immediate correction and removal from the park.
It amazes me how many times I see this behavior and owners laugh about it. It’s not funny, especially when they might physically hurt others by doing it, or with puppies who are learning bad habits!
Aggression
Aggression is never acceptable at a dog park. Exposing an aggressive pet to other dogs in this environment will not socialize them or reduce aggression: as a matter of fact, it will likely make the behavior worse!
If your dog is growling, snapping, or trying to bite other dogs, remove him from the park immediately. This behavior puts other dogs and people in danger.
Don’t bring dog toys or treats, which can trigger reactivity.
It’s one thing if your dog growls or air snaps at another dog for being rude (for example, humping them). It’s a different story, however, if your dog is being aggressive and intends to harm other dogs.
Dominance
The concept of dominance is in dogs is greatly misunderstood.
Truly dominant/alpha dogs are calm, benevolent, and stable. True alpha dogs are natural leaders and have exceptional social skills.
Dogs or puppies that are snappy, rude, pushy, humpy, or out of control are not being dominant. They are showing that they are immature, lack impulse control, have poor social skills, and need more training.
Stop labeling poorly tempered and poorly trained dogs as ‘dominant’.
Rude Play Behaviors
This brings us to rude and pushy behaviors at the dog park! Many dogs labeled as ‘dominant’ are actually just rude and socially inept. This behavior can lead to a dog fight.
Immediately stop your dog if you notice rude behavior. This includes humping, pinning dogs down, chasing dogs that don’t want to be chased, cornering dogs under benches, nipping, hovering over another dog’s neck and growling, or just generally being ‘wild’.
If the other dog doesn’t want to play, your dog should immediately stop.
These are not cute, even in puppies, and should not be allowed. Your pup is not making friends this way.
Dog Park Etiquette 101
Ready to hit the dog park? Here are a few things to keep in mind!
Be sure to bring water and a bowl for your dog, as well as clean-up bags. It’s always courteous to leave the park cleaner than you found it.
Use your leash, the right way!
Don’t let your dog off-lead until you are securely in the enclosed area.
Many dogs who are great around others when let free will be reactive toward other dogs while on the leash. If your dog is running freely outside of the enclosed park and runs up to a leashed dog trying to enter or exit, this could result in a scuffle.
While it’s important to keep a leash on your dog as you enter or exit the park, inside of the fenced area it’s better to let your dog free!
Dogs on leashes have no way to escape and often feel threatened by other animals who are not. This can make attending a dog park scary, turning what should be a fun day into a bad experience.
As before, if you are concerned that your pup may run away, your dog needs more training!
Pick up your poop!
We shouldn’t have to say this one, but seriously.
Pick up your dog’s poop! Leaving it is gross and it’s disrespectful to other park users. Most parks provide bags and garbage cans for this purpose.
If you see someone not picking up their dog’s poop, politely offer a poop bag (or, be a good person and pick it up yourself).
Healthy play & fun
Healthy play signals are a must!
When two dogs want to engage in play, you will see play bows, loose waving tails, relaxed lips and ears, and super silly body language.
A play bow is when one or both dogs bow down and stick their bum in the air. This is a sure sign that the dogs are being friendly!
Healthy play between dogs can be very noisy! They may growl and bark at each other, body slam, chase, and pretend to bite each other. However, these will all be good fun.
You should see the playing dogs stop occasionally, shake off, and communicate with each other if the play should continue (with another play bow). If they don’t take breaks, you need to break it up before things escalate.
Stiffness, low growls, pinning, stiff bodies, hovering, tucked tails, and one dog trying to get away are signs that the play session is NOT healthy.
Leave when things aren’t right
If there are too many dogs, if a fight breaks out, or if you or your dog are feeling uncomfortable for any reason, it’s time to leave.
The dog park should be a fun experience, not a stressful one.
Here are some reasons to leave the dog park, immediately:
Your dog is overwhelmed
There is too much excitement or a large dog fight breaks out
You notice that your dog is being pushy, rude, or overstimulated
Other pet parents are not paying attention to their pets
Other dogs are behaving poorly, out of control, or becoming snappy
Your dog is starting to act aggressively or is fearful, cowering, or trying to hide
CONCLUSION:
Be a responsible, educated owner, and have fun with your best friend!
Looking for a delicious treat to spoil your Great Dane this Thanksgiving? Look no further than our dog pumpkin pie recipe!
This easy-to-follow recipe is perfect for Thanksgiving or any other special occasion during the Holiday season. Your dog will love the taste of pumpkin, and you’ll love knowing that you’re giving them a healthy snack. So get ready to bake some pies – your dogs will thank you!
My dogs went BANANAS for these homemade dog treats!
Foods that Dogs Can Have at Thanksgiving
Some Thanksgiving foods are safe to feed your Great Dane in moderation! While we absolutely discourage counter surfing (uh-oh!), you can certainly offer your dog a few small bites of the following:
Turkey (without the skin, seasoning, or bones)
Mashed potatoes (plain, with no butter, salt, or garlic)
Pumpkin puree (plain, with no sugar or spices)
Green beans
Carrots
Dogs that are raw-fed and used to balanced raw meals may enjoy the raw turkey neck or a giblet!
Foods that a dog should not have on Thanksgiving
You may be tempted to spoil your dog with a delicious bite of Turkey carcass or a scrap of pumpkin pie, but there are some foods that dogs should not eat. Not all foods are completely safe for dogs (no matter how much we want them to be).
The following unhealthy ingredients can be dangerous for your pet, so be sure to keep them away from the table:
Turkey skin – This is one of dogs’ most common Thanksgiving dangers. Turkey’s skin is high in fat and can cause pancreatitis in dogs.
Cooked turkey bones – These can splinter and cause choking or intestinal blockages. Some raw turkey bones may be safe for select dogs and will help clean their teeth too, but please talk to your veterinary nutritionist for advice first.
Stuffing – This is often made with onions, garlic, and other ingredients that can be toxic to dogs or cause at the very least, digestive upset.
Pumpkin pie – This may contain sugar, spices, and other ingredients that can be harmful to dogs.
Alcohol – Don’t let your dog indulge in the Eggnog. This kind of goes without saying, but…here we are.
Sugar-Free Desserts – Of course, all desserts are technically off-limits here, but treat extra cautiously with sugar-free desserts! They may contain xylitol or ‘birch sugar’ which is EXTREMELY toxic to dogs!
Of course, avoid giving onions, chocolate, butter, and things that have a lot of added sugar as well. The last thing you want is a nasty case of poop soup on your lawn, followed by an expensive trip to the ER Veterinarian!
Dog Pumpkin Pie Recipe Ingredients
Here is some information about the ingredients in our pet treat pumpkin pie recipe. We chose things that are good for your dog’s stomach and that will provide added nutrition, too!
Pumpkin
Canned pumpkin is safe for dogs and an excellent source of fiber. It also contains Vitamin A, which is important for your dog’s vision, Vitamin C which helps boost the immune system, and Beta Carotene which is great for eye health!
For your Thanksgiving dog treats baking, make sure to choose a pure canned pumpkin, not a pumpkin pie filling mix. The pre-made stuff often contains spices and sugar, which are not healthy for your Great Dane.
Applesauce
Make sure to choose an organic unsweetened variety! Like pumpkin puree, apples are a great source of fiber and antioxidants and fiber. This ingredient will be used to bind the pumpkin pie crust together. I also love that it’s a perfect ingredient for homemade dog treats in the fall!
You can make your own or purchase it at the store.
Cinnamon
This spice is safe for dogs in small amounts. It has antioxidant properties and can help to regulate blood sugar levels. Just be careful not to use too much in your baking, as cinnamon can be irritating to a dog’s digestive system
Oat Flour
Oat flour is easy to make. Just take some rolled oats and pulse them in your food processor until it becomes a flour-like consistency.
You can also buy oat flour at most health food stores or online. Oat flour offers a lot of nutritional benefits for dogs. It is a good source of soluble fiber, which helps to regulate digestion, and it is also packed with vitamins and minerals like iron, selenium, and magnesium.
Oats are a moderate-glycemic food, so they won’t cause sudden blood sugar spikes, either. Winning!
Optional: Dr. Harvey’s Canine Health Base Mix
An alternative to oat flour that also works great is Dr. Harvey’s Canine Health base mix.
Dr. Harvey’s dry Health mix is made of mostly oats, but also has eggshells, fruits, and vegetables in it. It will blend up the same way as the oats will (into a flour-like powder), and dogs love the taste!
Egg
There are so many health benefits of eggs for dogs! They’re an excellent protein source, containing Vitamin D, B12, and selenium.
Too many eggs are too much of a good thing, however. Take it easy on the eggs and don’t offer them daily.
How Much Pumpkin Pie Can My Dog Eat?
We’ve kept this easy recipe as simple and clean as possible so that it is safe for your dog and a yummy treat.
This pumpkin pie for dogs also happens to be gluten-free and offers plenty of dietary fiber. Dietary fiber can help reduce the risk of deadly bloat in dogs.
Start with a small amount. If your dog loves it and has no ill effects, feel free to give them a larger piece of your homemade pumpkin pie for dogs!
What Happens if My Dog Eats Too Much Pumpkin?
Too much pumpkin, applesauce, and oats at once can cause digestive upset. I recommend keeping treats of all kinds, including pumpkin pie, to less than 10% of the daily food intake.
Small quantities are best to start, even for Great Danes with huge appetites!
As always, if you have any concerns about your dog’s health, please contact your veterinarian.
Pumpkin Pie vs. Mini Pumpkin Pies
This recipe works for regular pies that you slice OR as mini pumpkin pies.
I recommend making this recipe for your dog as individual mini-pies.
Smaller pies will bake faster (saving energy and time) and are easier to serve. This will also make it fun and easy to feed to your dog, not to mention easier to store.
Can I use Sweet Potatoes Instead of Pumpkin?
Absolutely! Sweet potatoes are a healthy alternative when making pumpkin pie, and can be used as a substitute in most pumpkin recipes! They offer similar nutritional benefits, including being an excellent source of dietary fiber, vitamins, and minerals.
Sweet potatoes are also a moderate-glycemic food and won’t cause sudden blood sugar spikes as some other foods can.
Nummy Tummy makes an excellent canned organic sweet potato that can be used in Thanksgiving treats instead of pumpkin.
Pumpkin Pie for Dogs Recipe
Ingredients:
1 3/4 cup oat flour *
3/4 cup unsweetened apple sauce
3/4 cup canned pumpkin or sweet potatoes**
1 egg
1/4 tsp cinnamon
*Blend rolled oats in your food processor until it turns to flour. You can also use Dr. Harvey’s Canine Health Base Mix in lieu of oats, just run it through your food processor first!
**Remember, do NOT use pumpkin pie filling! Plain pumpkin is ideal.
Instructions:
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.
Prepare a 12-muffin tin by spraying each compartment lightly with cooking spray. Don’t go crazy here, you don’t want to add a lot of fat to the recipe.
In a medium bowl, combine the oat flour and applesauce. This is your crust! A dough will form. You may need to work on this with your hands. It should be soft and slightly sticky.
Press a small amount of the dough into each muffin tin. I recommend working it up the sides a bit, too. This will help hold the filling in while the treats are baking. Use up all of your dough!
Bake the crusts for 10 minutes and then remove them from the oven to cool a bit.
In a medium bowl (I cheat and use the same one that I used for the crust!), whisk together the egg and pumpkin (or sweet potato) puree. Then add the cinnamon. Mix well!
Pour the pumpkin mixture evenly into each of the muffin tins, on top of the crusts. There will be more pie crust than pumpkin filling!
Bake at 350 degrees F for 25 minutes. Your house will smell AMAZING.
Remove the treats from the oven. Allow your dog’s pumpkin pies to cool completely before serving them!
How to Serve this Healthy Treat
You can offer the pies to your pets as-is, OR, top it with ‘whipped cream’ (AKA, unsweetened plain yogurt) first.
Give your pets some love, too. They deserve it!
How to Store Dog Pumpkin Treats
This pet pumpkin pie recipe can be stored in the fridge for up to a week or in the freezer for up to 3 months. Serve it as a healthy, low-fat treat through the New Year!
The GDCA Great Dane Club of America is a non-profit organization that was founded in 1937.
The club’s mission is to promote and protect the interests of the Great Dane breed, as well as to provide education and resources for its members. The GDCA offers a variety of resources including information on health, genetics, training, and more. They also host events throughout the year, which offer opportunities for Great Dane enthusiasts to come together and celebrate their favorite breed!
GDCA Mission & Standards
The purpose of the GDCA is to unite all those interested in the Great Dane and to work for the betterment of the breed by:
– Maintaining a code of ethics for members
– Cooperating with other canine organizations
– Promoting responsible dog ownership
– Supporting research beneficial to the health and welfare of the Great Dane
– Educating members and the public
– Hosting events and activities for Great Dane fanciers
The Great Dane Breed Standard
Great Danes are gentle giants! They should be friendly and courageous, never timid or aggressive.
Well-built Great Danes move gracefully with a powerful reach and drive. They are muscular, yet elegant dogs that should reflect the ideal proportions set forth in the breed standard.
The GDCA has created an illustrated breed standard for Great Dane dogs that can be read here. At dog shows, the dogs are judged against this standard:
The GDCA does allow for breeders to breed spot to spot. The practice of pairing harlequin (spot) dogs with other harlequin dogs can result in white puppies who may be deaf, blind, or have other health problems.
Some breeders who are exceptionally diligent about health testing, pedigrees, and color testing might breed spot to spot to diversify their genetic pool and produce well-marked puppies.
However, it’s not a practice that we stand behind in general, primarily in regard to the majority of Great Dane breeders (who barely do health testing, let alone care about the breed standard as a whole).
The Great Dane Club of America Events
There are several GDCA events each year throughout the U.S.
The most popular event is the GDCA National Specialty, which is held annually in early summer. Great Dane enthusiasts can attend to show their dogs, learn from others, and participate in other events such as lure coursing and dock diving.
Members of the GDCA are among a select group of exceptional Great Dane breeders who are dedicated to the betterment of the breed.
To become a member of the GDCA, you need to apply.
Your application must be signed by at least two existing GDCA members in good standing, who have recognized your work and are willing to sponsor you. By sponsoring you, they essentially stand behind you as a member and your breeding practices.
A qualified GDCA member candidate will have proven to others in the Great Dane community that they care about the breed and are willing to adhere to certain standards and ethics.
If you are interested in adopting an adult Great Dane, there are many wonderful rescues that have Danes available as well. Sometimes, they even have puppies!
If you’re thinking about getting a Great Dane, we urge you to do your research and make sure that you are prepared for the challenges of owning one of these amazing dogs! They are not for everyone.
The Great Dane Club and the American Kennel Club have some fantastic resources for Great Dane owners to learn more about the breed and its requirements.
Great Dane Health
With diligent pedigree research and proper health testing, Danes should have exceptional health.
But as with any dog breed, there are certain health conditions to be aware of.
The most common health problems among Great Danes are:
Diligent attention to pedigrees, health testing, overall structure, current research, and genetic testing can help reduce or eliminate the incidence of these diseases in dogs.
Great Dane Temperament
Great Danes should have a gentle and loving disposition. They should be fearless, loyal, and friendly toward people.
Timid behavior is unfortunately common, but not acceptable.
The ideal Great Dane is strongly built, yet elegant; well-formed, yet powerful; proud and upstanding. They should have excellent angulation and nice top lines that contribute to good movement, reach, grace, and athleticism.
Danes should not be heavy, lumbering, or clumsy; these are all signs that they are not built correctly and may also be more likely to be suffering from ACL tears, hip dysplasia, and arthritis.
There could be room for other colors to become part of the written standard. People who breed Great Danes have to prove that the color occurs naturally from dogs who were paired first for reasons of health and temperament, and prove that the color doesn’t dilute the gene pool or cause additional health issues.
Both the merle and the mantle coat pattern were added within the last 20 years.
Unfortunately, many people breeding dogs are breeding for fun colors, large size, and droop; those things go against GDCA ethics and the written standard.
We stand behind and believe in the GDCA Great Dane Club of America and encourage all Great Dane owners to check out the event calendar. Attend some upcoming events, meet exceptional Great Dane people, learn about dog sports, and see what ethical, dedicated, and responsible dog owners are doing for this breed we love so much!
